Couldn't get transmission drain bolt open?

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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 11:43 AM
  #1  
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Couldn't get transmission drain bolt open?

used a 3/8'' ratchet, couldn't get the job done.
so i guess i need to buy a breaker bar? what size shall i use? will i get enough ground clearance to swing?
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 11:48 AM
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I used a hammer and gave the ratchet one good swing, came off just fine.
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by VanyDotK
I used a hammer and gave the ratchet one good swing, came off just fine.
counter-clock wise?
i tried to use hammer to yank it, still nothing. am i eating too much vegetables?
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 11:53 AM
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From: N35°03'16.75", W 080°51'0.9"
Get a Craftsman (or similar) 20" 'T-Handle' breaker bar.

Like so:

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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 12:16 PM
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Put ur back into it
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 12:16 PM
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also if it's stuck like that make sure you're using a 6pt socket.
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 12:45 PM
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Just kick that ratchet and it'll pop loose. Use an impacting force, don't just pull on it.
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by ez12a
also if it's stuck like that make sure you're using a 6pt socket.
the transmission drain bolt fits a 3/8" ratchet, it's not a 6 point bolt
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Hoopcanada
counter-clock wise?
i tried to use hammer to yank it, still nothing. am i eating too much vegetables?
Yes.. counter clock wise, righty tight, lefty loosey. You don't want to strip it by going the wrong way. Look at it this way, if you were swinging a hammer to loosen the bolt, you would be swinging it towards the front of the car, not towards the back. Just one clean swing should loosen it up.
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by VanyDotK
Yes.. counter clock wise, righty tight, lefty loosey. You don't want to strip it by going the wrong way. Look at it this way, if you were swinging a hammer to loosen the bolt, you would be swinging it towards the front of the car, not towards the back. Just one clean swing should loosen it up.
thanks bro ! but are you sure? because i saw some other guy's(he uploaded a video on youtube) drain plug is facing FR tire, if yours is like that, i think you are right.
However, my drain bolt is facing to FL tire direction, so for me , i think i should swing towards to the back and that's what i did. is that right?
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 01:20 PM
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BTW, the ATF fill bolt is a bitch to break open as well. Just a tip for that.. I put one leg up in my engine bay and used my foot as a counter force (my foot is on the head of the ratchet) and I use both hands to pull and loosen the fill bolt. Sure I almost fall over and land on my ass every single time but that's apart of the fun!
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Hoopcanada
thanks bro ! but are you sure? because i saw some other guy's(he uploaded a video on youtube) drain plug is facing FR tire, if yours is like that, i think you are right.
However, my drain bolt is facing to FL tire direction, so for me , i think i should swing towards to the back and that's what i did. is that right?
Hmm.. well I have a 2008 TL-S so my drain bolt is facing the passenger side.. either way though you still go counter clock wise to loosen any bolt, just follow that rule.
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Hoopcanada
thanks bro ! but are you sure? because i saw some other guy's(he uploaded a video on youtube) drain plug is facing FR tire, if yours is like that, i think you are right.
However, my drain bolt is facing to FL tire direction, so for me , i think i should swing towards to the back and that's what i did. is that right?
Yeah that's right. Put the ratchet in the bolt and give it a swift kick.

Originally Posted by VanyDotK
BTW, the ATF fill bolt is a bitch to break open as well. Just a tip for that.. I put one leg up in my engine bay and used my foot as a counter force (my foot is on the head of the ratchet) and I use both hands to pull and loosen the fill bolt. Sure I almost fall over and land on my ass every single time but that's apart of the fun!
Your just asking to get hurt and that's no fun. Just use a cheater pipe over the ratchet and use leverage or find a long breaker bar. Key word is leverage.
and another thing, if your having trouble breaking the drain bolt loose. Break the fill bolt loose first. It's going to be frustrating when you finally drain the ATF and can't fill it back up.

Last edited by SpiderX1016; Jun 3, 2012 at 01:37 PM.
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 06:08 PM
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^^ +1 for always cracking the fill bolt first!
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by paperboy42190
the transmission drain bolt fits a 3/8" ratchet, it's not a 6 point bolt
doh forgot that. Was thinking about the check bolt for the MT...which I think is just like any drain bolt. but yes, just a 3/8" would do.

some pb blaster or penetrating oil never hurt either.

Last edited by ez12a; Jun 3, 2012 at 06:42 PM.
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 07:30 PM
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Don't kick the ratchet or using an impacting force. Use a breaker bar or put a pipe on the end of your ratchet to get more leverage. Only use impacting force when you have exhausted not being able to get it loose via leverage.
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by JJH
Don't kick the ratchet or using an impacting force. Use a breaker bar or put a pipe on the end of your ratchet to get more leverage. Only use impacting force when you have exhausted not being able to get it loose via leverage.
problem with a drain bolt is that unless it's on a lift there's not much room for a pipe down there.
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 09:00 PM
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If you don't have an extension for your 3/8" ratchet, you can also use "the claw" potion of a hammer to pull on it for leverage...always works great for me under the car (not so easy to do from the front of the car though in your case).

You will most likely need a breaker bar to get the ATF fill bolt off (and a 12" extension since its a ways down there), I actually stripped the gears in my ratchet once trying to get it off.
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 09:07 PM
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my jack lifts my car plenty high for a 18" breaker bar to go under there
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 10:12 PM
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Torque the fill bolt and the drain bolt to spec so you don't have to dick with it next 1x3!
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 10:46 PM
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Lying on your back, drive through your heels and through your back.

If you can do a perfect form power-lift style bench press, you can use this technique to break it free. The car will move initially until the brakes lock it in position, then you'll be applying force to the bolt thereafter.
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by JJH
Don't kick the ratchet or using an impacting force. Use a breaker bar or put a pipe on the end of your ratchet to get more leverage. Only use impacting force when you have exhausted not being able to get it loose via leverage.
You act like it's going to break something. It won't break anything but the bolt loose. When your on the ground most of the time you don't have enough space to put a long ratchet in there.
What are you going to do when you have a long ratchet in there anyway? Push? or are you going to go around the LF tire and pull? That's just not efficient.

The way I do it with my ratchet. I push forward a little and pull right away and then it breaks loose. It's all in the technique.
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Old Jun 4, 2012 | 06:29 AM
  #23  
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If your drain bolt in on that tight, I'd really be worried about the treads in the case. Be careful and make sure you use a torque wrench when you re-install the bolt.
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Old Jun 4, 2012 | 06:39 AM
  #24  
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Have someone else break it free for you.....
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