Hi,

I been doing research on doing a brake flush and Im seeing conflicting info on the bleeding order...

In most websites it says to start with the caliper farthest away from the master cylinder and work toward the master cylinder. However, in the link below, a member put some pictures that says to start from the front.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/52k-miles-fuel-system-service-brake-system-flush-transmission-fluid-replacement-752592/

Can anyone comment on this?

Also, will it be easier to just get a bleeder kit?

Here is the other link: http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/brake-01.htm

Thanks for any help

 

follow the pictures in that thread. its straight from the service manual. from what I've read, I think the different order has to do with the ABS.

 

For our cars, start with the D/S front caliper, and go clock-wise.

 

Ok...thanks! Going to do front driver, front pas, rear pas, rear driver.

Can anyone recommend a bledder tool for it? Trying to do this for the first time since a mechanic (that I got from here btw) is trying to charge me $150 to do the flush...seems too high!

Also, Im going to use the Castrol LMA brake fluid instead of the Honda one. Does anyone have any experience with that fluid?

Thanks

 

Never used them as not overjoyed about a check ball in the hydraulic system, but many good reports:
http://www.speedbleeder.com/

Other than that, have someone help you bleed the brakes, and that fluid is fine.

 

Grod,

There are lots of cool gadgets on the market today to make it easy. SpeedBleeders are cool in conjunction with a catch bag that they make; basically for ones with no helper.

I have really become accustomed to the bleeder vacuum tank such as Griot's Garage sells. Luckily I got it as a gift and it is easy to use. I did my TL over this weekend without removing the wheels, just reached around to hook up--easy!

1) I usually start at the left front, suck out all the reservoir fluid with a baster and refill with new fluid.
Open the bleeder with a 10MM on the left front wheel. (even if you open the bleeder before attaching the hose to the fitting, it is not a big deal as gravity pushes out everything) Bleed until you almost lose 1/2 the reservoir, refill.

2) Do the RF, RR and LR the same way. (because you are flushing a working system, it doesn't matter where you start, do it as recommended in the manual only if the system is having major repairs)

3) Know that to do this your are improving performance, excercising the bleeder so it is always free and saving really expensive parts, all this for the price of a can of fluid. 1 large can does an average car.

4) The one caution is to never run the reservoir empty, this means you will struggle to remove air. Soak the bleeders for an hour with penetrating fluid if they haven't been moved, to save them from damage.

My cars have brake reservoirs that have clear fluid in them, not Coca-Cola colored reservoirs and I never have brake problems. I have heard good things about Castrol Fluid, but any good fluid is better than old fluid DOT3/4 type.

QuickRick

 

Thanks for you responds.

I was looking at this product but dont know if its recommended:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...7058000P?mv=rr

 

Just to add,

For those of you with Brembo Calipers, you may not know it but there are actually two bleed ports per caliper. According to the manual, you must bleed the inside port first, and then the outer one. Then move on to the passengers side caliper...etc...

 

Great thread.....Im about to install D/S rotoras all around.

Thanks 94eg and QuickRick.

 

the abs plumbing causes the funny order but it is correct as:
driver front then clockwise around the car from driver viewpoint
Should take 1 qt- maybe a bit more to fully do the job
Any DOT 4 fluid will work, name brands preferred, synthetic or regular doesnt matter, synthetic for sure if using SS lines

On brembos its OUTER nipple then inner for bleeding--always the furthest point first....

Noobs: Place a small piece of 2x4 wood under the brake pedal to limit its travel to normal operating range-that protects the master cyl --remove wood when done!
Helper just pumps and holds- you open bleeder- pedal goes to the wood `floor` and stops- you tighten bleeder- repeat until all clear fluid then a few more times- refill master
I can usually get each caliper perfect with one fill of the master

Use a $2 turkey baster to remove MOST but not all the old fluid from master- dont uncover the line openings or you will have to get air out- instead of just pushing fluid

IF you remove a brake line, say- to install SS lines- acura specifies you MUST do 2 ABS active stops from 45mph to stopped- air can and does get into the master ABS controller while line is open and you need it pumping the brakes to push the air back to caliper

If the 2nd stop felt better pedal then there was air in the ABS controller and its now moved out and towards the first caliper- LF
rebleed all around to be safe- then its good for another year

Fluid is hygroscopic and sucks moisture from the air right past the rubber oring of master cyl, or any of the hydraulic fluid caps.
water vapor compresses in the fluid and moves to the calipers- turns to micro sized rust and eventually eats the cylinder wall or rubber oring seal for the caliper piston.
Normally the fluid moves only a few mm and then back when pedal released, but moisture can be pushed thru

Shockingly little technology is in the caliper itself

 

Yes this is correct. I thought I had it straight in my head, but I was wrong. Too bad I can't go back and edit my post...

PS: There is a note in the book that says the bleeder valve on the Brembo calipers is an odd 11mm size.

 

I went to buy couple of things in Strauss Discount Auto and I inquired if they do brake flushes. They told me yes and it was about $65. Im thinking of doing it and telling the mechanic to do it in the order that I tell him per the service manual.

Should I or not?

 

if you dont own a jack and jackstand and must use a shop-
as long as they use good fluid and follow this order exactly- then its ok

 

Does anyone know what size of tubing is required for the bleeding of the brakes? And where can I get it?

Thanks

 

i think a 1/4" clear plastic tubing that can be bought at any local hardware shop.