Brand New 05 Tl First Day 50 Mile Review
#1
Brand New 05 Tl First Day 50 Mile Review
WOW!!!!! What a car! I've never had anything like it in my life.
We had a rainy day in the Northeast today...the ACLS got rained out in Boston. But here in NY it was a great opportunity to take possession of my 2005 TL 5AT w/Navi ABP/Camel. What a beautiful car! I have to admit (I just sold my 1996 2.5 TL last night for $6k) that when I first saw the 04 some months ago I was put off by the more aggressive, rakish styling. But over the months of waiting, it grew and grew on me, and today, it took my breath away when I saw it on the pickup line at my dealer's, ready to go.
The materials that Acura has assembled to orient the new owner--books, a plastic indexed cheat sheet that cuts to the chase about every major system in the car, a demonstration audio DVD, and a folding card to facilitate the Bluetooth setup--are a great example of quality in themselves. It's all a little overwhelming, so after my first short drive, I wrote down on a piece of paper three questions regarding how to do the simple things I was used to doing in my old car. Then I looked those things up, made some notes, got back in my car, and lo and behold, it was easy, intuitive and user-friendly. I stretched way beyond the three answers I got, and learned to do a bunch of other things. I guess I'll just keep going this way.
What a ride! Smooth, taut, responsive. The dealer said that no break-in period was necessary--"you can drive 100 miles an hour right now," he said. But there was one exception: he told me not to use the cruise control for 1000 miles, because the way this engine gets broken in is to perform at constantly variable speeds. This might have been mentioned in some other threads, but I never saw it, so I was a bit surprised. When the store manager came over to thank me, he said the same thing. Has everyone else had this same warning?
It was real exhiliration just giving the accelerator a touch more pressure and feeling the car shoot forward. I've added about 100 HP to what I'm used to, and it was like sticking my finger in a wall outlet. And yet, after break in, the mileage is supposed to be comparable to what I was getting. I did notice something that other owners have written about: the gas gauge seemed to indicate that she was pretty thirsty. Most people who've commented on this said that after break in the mileage improves. Comments?
Because it was dark by the time I got on the road, I didn't really get into the Navi or the Bluetooth -- I'll set those things up tomorrow. But the sound system! A touch of the tuning knob and presto! Full audio controls on the screen, and it's as easy to use as an ATM, just absolutely intuitive. You barely have to look at it, and making adjustments while driving is easy and safe.
Well, it's 1:30am and I'm going to settle down with my manuals and my next ten questions! My thanks to everyone on this site who made this deal that much easier and well-informed. I ended up telling my salesman stuff that he didn't know--for example that Camel colored all-weather mats were now available. They threw them in as part of my deal, and man they look fantastic against the camel leather interior.
Sincerely,
Luke
We had a rainy day in the Northeast today...the ACLS got rained out in Boston. But here in NY it was a great opportunity to take possession of my 2005 TL 5AT w/Navi ABP/Camel. What a beautiful car! I have to admit (I just sold my 1996 2.5 TL last night for $6k) that when I first saw the 04 some months ago I was put off by the more aggressive, rakish styling. But over the months of waiting, it grew and grew on me, and today, it took my breath away when I saw it on the pickup line at my dealer's, ready to go.
The materials that Acura has assembled to orient the new owner--books, a plastic indexed cheat sheet that cuts to the chase about every major system in the car, a demonstration audio DVD, and a folding card to facilitate the Bluetooth setup--are a great example of quality in themselves. It's all a little overwhelming, so after my first short drive, I wrote down on a piece of paper three questions regarding how to do the simple things I was used to doing in my old car. Then I looked those things up, made some notes, got back in my car, and lo and behold, it was easy, intuitive and user-friendly. I stretched way beyond the three answers I got, and learned to do a bunch of other things. I guess I'll just keep going this way.
What a ride! Smooth, taut, responsive. The dealer said that no break-in period was necessary--"you can drive 100 miles an hour right now," he said. But there was one exception: he told me not to use the cruise control for 1000 miles, because the way this engine gets broken in is to perform at constantly variable speeds. This might have been mentioned in some other threads, but I never saw it, so I was a bit surprised. When the store manager came over to thank me, he said the same thing. Has everyone else had this same warning?
It was real exhiliration just giving the accelerator a touch more pressure and feeling the car shoot forward. I've added about 100 HP to what I'm used to, and it was like sticking my finger in a wall outlet. And yet, after break in, the mileage is supposed to be comparable to what I was getting. I did notice something that other owners have written about: the gas gauge seemed to indicate that she was pretty thirsty. Most people who've commented on this said that after break in the mileage improves. Comments?
Because it was dark by the time I got on the road, I didn't really get into the Navi or the Bluetooth -- I'll set those things up tomorrow. But the sound system! A touch of the tuning knob and presto! Full audio controls on the screen, and it's as easy to use as an ATM, just absolutely intuitive. You barely have to look at it, and making adjustments while driving is easy and safe.
Well, it's 1:30am and I'm going to settle down with my manuals and my next ten questions! My thanks to everyone on this site who made this deal that much easier and well-informed. I ended up telling my salesman stuff that he didn't know--for example that Camel colored all-weather mats were now available. They threw them in as part of my deal, and man they look fantastic against the camel leather interior.
Sincerely,
Luke
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#11
Welcome - and congrats! The speed variation is a very good popint, and I don't know wheteher it is mentioned or not in the Owner's Manual. But as a gearhead, it is standard operating procedure.
In fact, today's cars with their overdrive high gears are even worse than in the past. The 5AT will go to 5th at about 1500 RPM if you feather the accelerator, and the difference between that and a 70 MPH cruise is only about 500 RPM. An extended initital cruise would not be a good break-in procedure, as your dealer mentioned. Good for them.
The dealer only went half-way though - the brakes need break-in as well. No panic stops or excessive heating for at least the first few hundred miles, as the outgassing of green volatiles can leave a film on the rotors, and glaze the pads. This is not to be confused with similar outgassing of green volatiles encountered after Uncle Fred eats a burrito supreme.
Suburban driving, with its mix of stop and go without extended idle times, is probably the best scenario for engine and brakes.
In fact, today's cars with their overdrive high gears are even worse than in the past. The 5AT will go to 5th at about 1500 RPM if you feather the accelerator, and the difference between that and a 70 MPH cruise is only about 500 RPM. An extended initital cruise would not be a good break-in procedure, as your dealer mentioned. Good for them.
The dealer only went half-way though - the brakes need break-in as well. No panic stops or excessive heating for at least the first few hundred miles, as the outgassing of green volatiles can leave a film on the rotors, and glaze the pads. This is not to be confused with similar outgassing of green volatiles encountered after Uncle Fred eats a burrito supreme.
Suburban driving, with its mix of stop and go without extended idle times, is probably the best scenario for engine and brakes.
#12
Originally Posted by Luke
What a ride! Smooth, taut, responsive. The dealer said that no break-in period was necessary--"you can drive 100 miles an hour right now," he said. But there was one exception: he told me not to use the cruise control for 1000 miles, because the way this engine gets broken in is to perform at constantly variable speeds. This might have been mentioned in some other threads, but I never saw it, so I was a bit surprised. When the store manager came over to thank me, he said the same thing. Has everyone else had this same warning?
#13
Originally Posted by ChadT
This is really good advice on breaking in a car. Constant engine speeds will establish wear patterns at a fixed RPM. It's also actually good for a new car to do some full throttle full load runs (You don't have to redline it) which will help to seat the rings.
*My sports bikes from Honda used to have break-in procedures as well, and I do not recall full throttle bursts as part of that protocol.
#14
'The dealer said that no break-in period was necessary--"you can drive 100 miles an hour right now," '
No, this is bad advice from a dealer or anyone else. Unless, of course, you don't care too much for you car and it's engine/drivetrain/brakes/etc. the manual clearly states the preferred break-in procedure and you would be wise to follow it. The general rule of thumb is, for thr first 500 to 1000 miles (depending upon manufacture and recommendations) to drive as though there was an egg under the throttle. And the brakes need about 200 to 300 miles of easy and careful use for a proper break-in.
Your car.. do as you please. But your "dealer" doesn't know what he's talking about.
No, this is bad advice from a dealer or anyone else. Unless, of course, you don't care too much for you car and it's engine/drivetrain/brakes/etc. the manual clearly states the preferred break-in procedure and you would be wise to follow it. The general rule of thumb is, for thr first 500 to 1000 miles (depending upon manufacture and recommendations) to drive as though there was an egg under the throttle. And the brakes need about 200 to 300 miles of easy and careful use for a proper break-in.
Your car.. do as you please. But your "dealer" doesn't know what he's talking about.
#15
Originally Posted by Road Rage
That is not recommended by Honda, and as i recall based on a specious motorcycle* post by an individual of unknown credentials - I would be very circumspect of that advice. If you are basing that on a source of bona fide expertise, I would be very interested to review it.
*My sports bikes from Honda used to have break-in procedures as well, and I do not recall full throttle bursts as part of that protocol.
*My sports bikes from Honda used to have break-in procedures as well, and I do not recall full throttle bursts as part of that protocol.
The part I was refering to as good advice is the part about not keeping the engine at a steady speed for extended periods when it's new. When I got my car new I mostly drove it easy without redlining for the first 500 miles or so. I did open it up now and then though. I don't have any evidence that this actually seats the rings better but I have heard it from more than just the one motorcycle post. Would like to know more about the whole seating the rings deal. Brakes and clutches should definitely be babied for the first few hundred miles. It makes sense that bearings and other wear surfaces should be broken in easy but is there a need to put a load on the engine to seat the rings?
Here is a quote from an aircraft site about breaking in a new engine that seems to support this theory:
For those who still think that running the engine hard during break-in falls into the category of cruel and unusual punishment, there is one more argument for high power settings during engine break-in. The use of low power settings does not expand the piston rings enough, and a film of oil is left on the cylinder walls. The high temperatures in the combustion chamber will oxidize this oil film so that it creates a condition commonly known as glazing of the cylinder walls. When this happens, the ring break-in process stops, and excessive oil consumption frequently occurs. The bad news is that extensive glazing can only be corrected by removing the cylinders and rehoning the walls. This is expensive, and it is an expense that can be avoided by proper break in procedures.
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