Iram Deum

I was wondering whether to keep using conventional motor oil or switching to synthetic. I've had the car since day one and have always using conventional though after reading forum after forum, am left wondering whether to keep at it or switch. That being said, I appreciate suggestions for the best conventional stuff or whether to just switch. Thanks.

SpiderX1016

Keep doing what you're doing and you'll make it to 280k.

Shoot2Thrill

7 years and 140k and this is your FIRST question-contribution? So many one post wonders lately.

LawnPro

Most TL owners use some sort of synthetic oil and premium oil filter.

Mobil 1 oil and filter is what I use. Wal Mart has some good prices for this and other brands.

Bruce Banner

iTrader: (2)

I do mobil 1 Syn. It may not be best but it's good enough and it's in my price range.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

the funny thing is;

any oil will do.


if you're changing the cars oil when the MID calls, then you can stick to any kind of oil; whether it be synthetic or conventional dino oil.


Most synthetics on the market are BLENDS.
so, what this means is....

you can use any kind of oil.

powerflow

Yep any good oil is fine. Use a premium filter and make sure the oil change is done correctly and you're good to go.

I've been using Valvoline synpower from walmart, and buy the Royal Purple filter on Amazon. I replace the plug gasket about once a year.

truonghthe

I use either Valvoline Synthetic with OEM oil filter, many other member had recommend Redline but none of the store near me carry Redline so the next best in line is Valvoline.

IamaTL

Mobil 1 for sure, 5qts is $26~ at walmart

M1-110 Filter. $10-$13~

Bruce Banner

iTrader: (2)

M1 filters have gone up in price, at least in my area.
I've switched to Bosch distance +

nfnsquared

What ever is on sale....

vp55

iTrader: (6)

What's the best filter to use with Mobil 1 or Mobil 1 Extended Protection?

SpiderX1016

Royal Purple.

aIRpeACE

iTrader: (2)

advance auto part doing a special on mb 1 with filter for $29.99

DMZ

I use NAPA's own brand of 5W-20 synthetic which is Valvoline Synpower with their name on it, around $5.49 a quart. I also use NAPA's own brand oil filter, which is a WIX with their name on it, #51334, around $7 which I find keeps the oil cleanest longest. No need to spend $14 for an oil filter.
.
.

powerflow

The Royal Purple filter is 12.55 shipped with Amazon Prime right now. Its made in the USA, which is good to support. Its well worth the peace of mind & price, especially if you 'want the best' for your TL or run long in-service oil cycles.

xSilver_Bulletx

I use castrol GTX 5w30 (fall/winter) and 10w30 (spring/summer)
The J-series wasn't designed around synthetic. And it will actually burn synthetic, though I am sure some here will swear by synthetic.

I'm at 142k miles, yet to have any engine problems to date. So save you another $10. Just be sure to always keep up with your oil changes. I used to go 5,000 miles but I started to change mine every 3,000 because my driving habits fall under the "severe" category in the owners manual.

xSilver_Bulletx

I also use purolator pure one filters. Stay away from OEM, since they switched to a different company. Avoid FRAM at all cost. Bosch is another good alternative.

DMZ

It will actually burn synthetic? The J-Series wasn't designed around synthetic?
Just where the heck did you get all that malarkey from?

I've been using nothing but synthetic since my 1st oil change and after 135K hasn't burned a drop. In fact, Tony, the head mechanic at Acura of Manhattan in NYC said to ONLY use synthetic in this engine when he took the oil cap off at 90K and showed me how clean it was (and still is) in there.

As for Castrol, I'm sure it's good oil, but I'm still boycotting BP which Castrol is a division of.
.
.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

LOL.
it WONT burn synthetic.
seeing as most synthetics are blends any way.

losiglow

iTrader: (1)

This. I've been using synthetic since I purchased mine at 65K. I'm at nearly 90K now with no drop in the oil level after 5-6K miles per change (about 20% on the MID). So if it's burning the synthetic, it must be replenishing it at the same time.

LawnPro

The key is to only drive 5-6k miles between changes.

It's annoying to hear people say they go 10-12k miles before a change.

It's probably fine to go that long but why push the oil that long?

anionrings

iTrader: (2)

this thread has caught my attention....Burn Synthetic?..i use synthetic mobil 1 oil ... so my car will blow up ?

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

^If you drive over 50mph -
if you stop -
if you let any of your passengers off -

flyromeo3

another one.

anionrings

iTrader: (2)

If i put it on reverse to get out of the drive way

sixsixfour

what the heck? what kind of crap is that?

first time Ive heard that a J-series burns oil, specifically synthetic. if it can burn synthetic, it will burn ANY oil. its not like the engine knows or can tell if it has synthetic or regular oil, but you might say that it knows the difference between the two.

djkurious

lol

xSilver_Bulletx

I knew I was gonna get burned (no pun intended) after my post. I got the info from two members of another forum who built their J motors. I will find the link when I get home tonight.

Bruce Banner

iTrader: (2)

sooooo building a J motor makes them experts about the motor itself?
Such were the case, honda engineers would be easily replaced by any mechanic who knows how to build a motor.

If these motors "burned" synthetic oil, you would have no trouble finding links and discussions about it.

xSilver_Bulletx

These guys are well known on the forums. I am new to this forum so I don't know if anyone built their J32 and stroked it. But the name Paul Smalser should ring a bell to at least a few on here. He is not your ordinary mechanic you find on the street. He's worked on several J engines and knows it inside and out.

I stopped listening to Honda engineers when they told me to change my automatic transmission every 60k miles. We all know those auto tranny need to be changed every 15-20k miles or else they are prone to failure. If the engineers are perfect then please explain the high failure rate of the transmissions. Explain why the 3rd Gear in the 6MT pops out using Honda fluid but not when using GM synchromesh or Amsoil MTF. I could argue with you all day but I honestly don't care. I am just here to help and inform anyone who is open to suggestions. If you don't believe me or whatever, then just take it with a grain of salt. I'm not here to misinform or mislead anyone. Just spreading what I have read and learned about these motors.

Here is the link. I normally do not listen to claims people make over the forum but Paul has proven himself with his engine builds and recommendations. The guy knows his stuff and people have even traveled from as far as Cali to North Virginia (where he lives) to get their engine built and swapped or even simple mechanical work. This man also made the brackets to make it possible to run RL BBK's on Accord/TL/TSX as well as adapting the m90 supercharger to the J series engines.

http://elitecm.net/forums/index.php?topic=1901.0

Notice he also mentioned he used an oil pressure gauge to test each of the oils.

xSilver_Bulletx

Also, if anyone wants to use their synthetic blend, I mean 'full' synthetic oil then keep using it. Your engine won't blow up. I just don't think it's worth the extra $10 when I keep up with my oil changes and have not had any engine problems. No misfires, no CEL, nothing.

sixsixfour

what kind of work they done still doesn't change the fact that a specific type of engine, in this case the J-series, would burn ONLY synthetic oil. that is just plain retarded.

sure, there are engines out there that do burn oil. but those would burn ANY oil in their crankcase, not just synthetic. its like saying water won't evaporate but purified water will.

just because they build engines doesn't make their word gospel. especially with the kind of proposition you are implying. I know people that have torn down and rebuilt 4G63 engines like it was nobody's business, both for street and track, but that doesn't make them an authority over common sense.

If an engine burns oil, it will burn oil. synthetic or otherwise. it doesnt know the difference between regular, synthetic blend or full synthetic.

nfnsquared

oh brother....

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

maybe a built J.
ive heard of 3.6 strokers leaking/burning oil.
if thats the case, you cant throw a blanket statement on ALL J's.
Because, I've been running a true synthetic and I have no oil loss.

Ive ran M1 0W-40
and currently, I'm running redline 5w-30

xSilver_Bulletx

Let me retract my statement. All oil is burned. For someone to say not a drop was burned is ludicrous. But synthetic burns more. I am in no way saying synthetic is inferior to conventional. Just on this specific engine, I don't know the exact words to explain it. But if you type in 'synthetic oil' in the search on v6 performance and drive accord forum and you will find several threads of complaints of owners losing one or more quarts of oil on synthetic. I myself used synthetic in the past and I would lose a quart and sometimes an additional half. So with all the complaints and my own experience, I decided to just stick to Dino oil and save the extra few bucks. I also change every 3k miles so synthetic would be a waste to me.

And I wonder how many of you actually clicked the link and read through the thread

xSilver_Bulletx

Here is another link. Read post #91
http://www..net/forums/7th-generatio...you-use-3.html

From another member who runs a shop and built his J35a8 in his Accord. Him and Paul are the informative ones who post when people have technical issues.
I'm gonna leave it at this. I know how bad oil threads get.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

^you're talking about BUILT motors....

nfnsquared

125,000 miles on mostly M1 5w20 syn blend, one time on M1 0w40 full syn, and the last two changes on Honda 5w20 syn blend. Oil change intervals from 7500 to 10,000 miles. Never added oil between changes, never down more than 1/2 quart.

sixsixfour

+1

fyi i clicked through the thread and I still stand by my original statement.

if an engine burns oil, it will burn ANY oil. synthetic or otherwise. you are trying to throw us off by saying the J-series burns oil.

the threads you are linking are referring to built engines. not STOCK. you made a blanket statement that J-series burns synthetic oil:

I have not heard/read/seen any J-series burning just synthetic oil. if that were the case, people here would have mentioned it at the very least. stock J-series engines wont burn oil unless there is a problem. but they wont burn the oil simply because its synthetic.

you are referring to people working on BUILT engines, not STOCK engines. big difference. I've used synthetic from the first oil change and have not had to add oil in between intervals. a LOT of engines were NOT DESIGNED around synthetic oils. that doesn't mean they automatically burn synthetic oil.