I have a question about which trans fluid to use. Ive read most the threads regarding which is best, but it seems some recommend staying with the OEM Z1 and to stay away from Amsoil. Then i read how the OEM fluid is crappy. Im seriously considering running the Amsoil but just want to make sure its gonna work well with the trans. Would like to hear some feedback from you guys. Also my car has 75k and the last trans service was done 25k miles ago at the stealership with OEM fluids.

 

I switched to Amsoil at 25,000 miles and I'm at 84,000 and shifts are like new. Z1 is junk. The only thing that makes it "special" is it's highly friction modified to make the shifts super smooth. Smooth shifts are not what you want if you're looking to get long life out of the trans. The change to Amsoil gave a more positive shift but nowhere near harsh.

If you stay with Z1, change it out at every other engine oil change and it will be ok. With one of the premium synthetics you can go much, much farther between changes.

Redline D4 is another excellent fluid to look at.

 

Thanks for the info IHC!

 

Hi,

Looking to buy the Redline oil for my Automatic transmission. Is the one to get the D4 ATF for my 06 TL? Once I change to this, what should be the change interval in miles/years?

Thanks

 

D4 is the one you want.

Once you have 100% Redline, 100,000 miles is not out of the question especially if you replace the external filter. This fluid should not "wear out". The only reason to replace before 100,000 would be to dump out contaminates like wear metals and clutch material.

If you want to play it conservative, replace at the recommended Acura intervals.

 

Thanks!! Any DIY guide for 3x3 transmission oil change?

 

^^ Plenty of them. Search.

 

Thanks...found this!

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...&highlight=DIY

 

IHC: your PM box is full!

 

Hey Ive been running Amsoil Atf for the past six months with no ill effects, but after reading all the post on these forums and Road Rage im seriously swithching to Redline D4 when I change in the spring. Yo for anybody worried about warranty claims just purchase some Atf Z-1 and keep the reciept in the vehicle. Oh yea one more thing Honda Atf Z-1 can be purchased at your local Carquest call and ask if they dont carry they can order and its considerably cheaper than dealer prices.

 

Taken care of.

 

I'm in RI so it can get pretty cold here in the winter. I'm planning on tracking the car in the summer. Can I just use 5w-30 year round or should I go 5w-20 in the winter and 10w-30 in the summer? BTW - I'm SC'd as well.

 

You have several options. Since it's supercharged, you're well past the manufacturer's design, load, and heat parameters.

From the heat standpoint alone it would be a good idea to run the 30wt. It's only going to be as thick as a 20wt after some hard running in boost heats it up good.

From a bearing load standpoint you're increasing load on the rod bearings by nearly 40% so you need the higher HTHS of a 30wt. There's a direct correlation of the HTHS rating of the oil to the amount of engine wear when run hard. GM did some testing of the 3.8L engine with oils of different HTHS values and they were run hard on the dyno for a long period of time and then torn down. It even surprised me at how much less wear there was when moving up by one number.

I know I sound like a Redline salesman but I only recommend it because I believe it's the best. One thing that's so neat about it is you get an HTHS number that you usually see one grade thicker in "normal" oils. For example the 5w-30 that I'm running has a HTHS of 3.8. Look around for any other 30wt even a 10w-30 or straight 30 and you'll be hard pressed to find one with that number. It's higher than most 40wt oils. So in other words you get the flow of a 5w-30 and the protection of a 40wt. Even their 5w-20 has an HTHS of 3.4 which is amazing for a 20wt.

I'm not trying to say you will have instant engine failure on the 20wt. But with the Redline 5w-30 you will be able to run it harder for a longer period of time without worrying about wearing out the engine. To answer the original question, 5w-30 is good down below 0F. If it makes you more comfortable with a 20wt in there for the winter, nothing wrong with switching weights between the seasons. Again, the 20wt will be as thick as a 30wt in the winter.

Your idea of a 10w-30 in the summer is a good one if you're using a regular oil. It will likely have a higher HTHS than it's 5w-30 counterpart but the top oils, Motul included are just as tough in their 5w-x forms.

I think I really went off on a tangent this time. Hopefully I answered the question.

 

Thanks for the reply IHC. I've been using a synthetic blend but will be switching over to full synthetic. I'll defiinitely look into the Redline and Motul. I think I'll just stick with 5w-30 year round. Are there others brands that are high on your list?

 

I found this interesting read on motor oil...

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/faq...=haas_articles

 

Not Dr Haas! Lol. I've been back and forth with that guy countless times. He's a smart guy but he's a doctor and there are some serious holes in his theories.

I won't get into detail here but he doesn't believe that HTHS is important and he doesn't understand much of the inner workings of an engine. He also relies on UOAs to determine wear which is a fatal flaw. I can poke hole after hole in his theories.

One thing he will admit to is he drives the Enzo easy and only short bursts of power so the oil temp runs cooler than normal. I have to give him credit for putting his money where his mouth is especially in a couple cars that each cost more than a house but he will learn the hard way assuming he keeps the cars for any length of time.

 

unless you tear down engines you cant really understand the complexity of these issues and what happens and what wears out- its gruesome sometimes with pitting of cam lobes, sludge in oilers etc etc

Supercharged-turbo cars have very special needs due to the temps and rpm changes- and only the best oil should be run in them
For street use I would go redline- It has saved more race engines and trans than I can count, and thats just cars I know from the track have a traumatic filter failure or something and complete the race- parts still fine- add oil and drive rest of the season!
Good enough for racers- right stuff for your high dollar toy

for the stock streeter, other oils are good enough for the wifes driver,penz platinum is the current use

 

lol...and here I was thinking i found something new (even though it was a little old)

I think I'm going redline for the oil and RP for the filter. Any particular place you guys now where to get a good deal on the two?

 

Dr Haas does have some good info. He thoroughly understands the relationship of viscosity requirements vs temp. There are a lot of good things you can learn from him Where he goes wrong is not adding engine load and HTHS into the equation. Instead he bases his oil choice based strictly on viscosity and flow vs expected operating temps. This is where real world experience comes in, knowing that flow is important but resistance to shear can be more important. Add bearing loads and HTHS in there and he would really have it covered.

I get mine from Jegs. It's on the cheaper side, probably not the very best deal but pretty close and it's always arrived within a few days.

The RP filter I believe is still only available at Pep Boys but that deal is supposed to end soon so they will be sold many more places soon. If you don't have a PepBoys near you I have a couple oversized (S2000) RP filters sitting here. I won't even charge you shipping if you need one.

 

^^^I did find his article a good read...definitely learned something. As for the RP filter, there is a pep boys around here but thanks for the offer.

One question on the oil change. Is there any benefit of using jack stands vs. ramps? I figure the ramps would be easier.

 

I use pennzoil 540
GM for the transmission

Haven't changed anything else. Really need to bleed the brakes soon.

 

I have an acura TL 06 with about 76k on it. I picked up the mobil 1 synthetic 10w40 for 75k plus high mileage vehicle. I am in south california, is this oil to thick for my car? or should I just continue to use 5w-20 @76k miles.

 

Bringing this back from the dead! Meh, it's better then a new thread for a stupid simple question.

I am going with Motul 5.1 for my brakes when I do them but I would like to do my clutch fluid too while I'm at it. Obviously Acura says Honda DOT3.

Is there a better clutch fluid? I'm going to order the ss line while I'm at it so I'd rather do what I can while I can. Is Motul overkill for this purpose?

Thanks - Chad

 

I'm going to change my brake lines to SS and thought i might as well change the fluid to DOT 5.1. But which is the best Brand and where would be the cheapest to buy?

 

Motul 5.1 or Castrol SRF

Motul 5.1 is really great for our ABS and it also has pretty good wet and dry boiling points. This is coming from our resident guru IHC.

Castrol SRF is technically the best for the boiling points. But it's also ridiculously expensive. And probably overkill for our application.

I'll just buy the Motul 5.1 from Heeltoe when I place my brake order.

Motul 5.1 ( $9)
http://www.heeltoeauto.com/Motul-DOT...-pr-65499.html

Castrol SRF ($75)
http://www.amazon.com/Castrol-SRF-Br...1944715&sr=8-1