When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Though I've heard okay reviews about replacing this part with Gates, I'm concerned because neither pulley spins freely more than once. Like I was expecting it to have minimal resistance, kind of like a skateboard wheel. But perhaps this is a design feature to dampen vibration. Either way, the casting on the mounting piece is rough, and it wasn't even de-burred properly but I suppose there's a reason it's less than half the price of OEM.
ANYWAYS
Couldn't I simply replace the idler pulley and tensioner pulley with OEM (total of $35 just for the pulleys themselves) and reuse the old mount? The bearings are in the pulleys, so I figure there's no real "wear" item on the mount to replace? Or maybe I'm missing something?
why rebuilt? inside the assembly has a spring that put tension on the belt that will get weaken over time. even the service manual call for replacement of the entire assembly if the spring can't hold more than 34-36 ft-lbs.
The 2 pulleys on the belt tensioner do not ever spin freely. There is resistance because of grease behind the seals. Just pop the seal with a pick and you'll know what I mean.
Note on your Gates belt tensioner which I used also in the past, the tensioner pulley has a CHINESE bearing in it which fails and starts spraying grease out within 2 years. Picture here for proof, bearing seal even says "China" on it. First picture is the idler pulley with NSK bearing and the second picture is the tensioner pulley where the bearing's print is hidden by the bolt. They use a Chinese bearing for the tensioner pulley knowing that most people aren't going to remove the bolt to see what type of bearing is used. They stayed with NSK bearing for the idler pulley because it is in plain sight that you can see. I care what small parts I get so I went and took it apart completely to identify them. The Chinese bearing was grindy and the NSK bearing was still smooth turning.
On the other note, you can just replace the bearing in either one of the pulleys. I did so for my old OEM tensioner pulley using a Japanese Nachi bearing. You can get the size of the bearing off most of Honda/Acura dealer parts site or simply measure it with a caliper. The average people most likely don't care, but with 310k miles on my AV6, I do care for it to last over 500k miles, hence I stay away from parts with China print on it
Thank you all. I did this job last night and coincidentally, both my chattering and my whine (which i was near certain was my PS pump) went away. Engine bay is quiet again, minus the fact I need a valve adjustment.
This job should only take 30 minutes if you have a quality set of tools. In my case, I somehow managed to misplace all but one of my 12mm sockets, and that last socket was a made-in-Taiwan special from the 80's. I thought I stripped the lowest 12mm bolt that connects the tensioner fixture to the engine, but after a few trips to the hardware store, I figured I would buy another socket before drilling and tapping the bolt out. Turns out, that old 12mm socket was the thing that was stripped, and not the bolt head (though it visually appeared rounded). New socket, came right out.
Probably one of the easiest DIY jobs if you aren't a total idiot
Last edited by TheSauceBoss; 10-03-2019 at 07:41 AM.
Please stop by your local Harbor Freight store (YES I SAID IT) and pick up a set of metric ratchet wrench (14 mm one is the one you need). You will be thanks me later and it will be the best $20 ish you ever spend.
Please stop by your local Harbor Freight store (YES I SAID IT) and pick up a set of metric ratchet wrench (14 mm one is the one you need). You will be thanks me later and it will be the best $20 ish you ever spend.
I have 'em. Can confirm they are extremely useful.
Please stop by your local Harbor Freight store (YES I SAID IT) and pick up a set of metric ratchet wrench (14 mm one is the one you need). You will be thanks me later and it will be the best $20 ish you ever spend.
Yeah for TL the wrench is good. I needed to get this kit for a different car where access was really tight and it works well. Way more expensive though.
10-02-2019, 07:55 AM
