erick3

So, as of lately my cars been having a hard time starting up; she whines up really slowly as if she has a weak battery and then maybe a half second later, cranks up normally. At this point, she sits at home while I'm on campus, so about 5 days in between start-ups. She's an 05 AT w/ navi and Acura replaced my battery under warranty just recently, but shes got 54k on her now...

I was thinking about getting an optima battery? She did this before when she sat in the cold too in front of my apartment during the winter...shes been doing this ever since...Acura of Lynnwood wants to do a diagnostic for a "billion dollars"...something like 150?! And she no longer has the subs in the back...took those out a few months ago, and shes still been cranking slowly...HELP?

Thanks,
erc

mn2trance

If your battery has been replaced before and you suspect it's a bad starter, take it to AutoZone and they can test it for you for free. When I had this problem, I replaced the stock battery with an Optima Red Top and couldn't be happier.

PeteThaPitbull

i had the same problem, when it sits for a few days when its cold out (between ~5-30 degrees F) i had trouble getting it to start. id boost it and it be fine until it would sit again. i want to upgrade to an optima battery since i still have the factory battery (Acura 3rd gen has a known issue with there factory batteries, 2nd TL this has happened on for me - first on my 04 now on my 05)..Optima is probably the highest recommend - they make great batteries

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

Battery... Not starter... If it was the starter it would make a loud creak... And it would require a few turns of the key to crank if it was the starter...

How do I know? Left the car sitting infront of my house for 3 days in below 10 degree weather... Stranded infront of my house before work (acura tlc ftw)

Gfaze

It's your battery. Slow cranking is a key sign of a bad battery. Even if it's been recently replaced, it can be a defective one right out of the factory. I've had batteries come back the same week they were sold.

erick3

Gosh, why does Acura have so many problems? I've had my car in for service so many times because of factory defects...like I've mentioned before, my service record's about 4 inches thick! Thanks again for everyone's input; it probably is a bad battery...

Thanks,
Erc

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

one name brand which I've learned is not to be trust "duralast"... more like dura 'wont' last

erick3

...well there goes that one then...optima's so expensive...! i'm looking for the yellow top right? yeah i have 2 p2 subs in the back...

TLer trash

FIRST, have somebody do a couple tests on it. In between the free Autozone type checks and the $140 the dealer wants, you should be able to spend $40 to $50 to get an independent repair shop to do a good cranking and charging test. A load test and a cranking amperage test will tell you if it's the starter or battery.
Get a parasitic drain test done before you invest in an Optima. If your subs draw even a small amount of current when the car is sitting, don,t get a red Optima. I went through three before giving up on them. I'm not bashing Optima, I have one in my wife's car.[really mine, it's the TL!],my daughter's car, my son's car, and have a few customers using them. I also don't know if the yellow tops are prone to this problem. I had another one fail in a customer's car that is stored seasonally. My sub drew about 75ma over normal system drain. In 5 days it would crank slowly, after 7 or 8, it needed a jump.

Fulani has a TL

iTrader: (1)

If memory serves me correct, duralast is made by Johnson Controls, and Optima too is made by Johnson Controls (same manufacturer different designs).

Reason why Optima is more expensive is A cuz of its name, and B cuz of the Spiral Technology. Which Exide batteries actually have as well.

Interstate batteries are made by Johnson Controls as well!!!

What does Johnson Controls NOT MAKE!!!

Fulani has a TL

iTrader: (1)

Yo, just found this site when google searching.

Some good info in regards to batteries

http://www.automedia.com/Selecting_a...cr20030101sb/1

TLer trash

They don't make Johnson Controls. You are still the only one respossible for the control of your Johnson.

Fulani has a TL

iTrader: (1)

HAHAHAHHAHAHA,

No offense or anything but your name SOOO suits that comment!!!

01tl4tl

If the battery was recently replaced by the dealer - go back there.
The reason they MUST tell you there is a diagnosis fee-usually 1 to 1.5 hours labor at 100 120 per hour, is to protect them-
if there is an invoice saying they can look at your car- they are not car thieves,
and if its a warranty problem- once found, they write a different work order and you pay nothing. A recent battery would fall here.
The other thing is to protect them from people wanting a techs time- which is valuable to the man paying him- and get a diagnosis of problems- then taking the car to joe cheapo repair down the street for the work---after joe couldnt diagnose the prob in the first place- it happens!

There may have been labor or bad internal parts issues, just like tire companies and auto makers have probs, have a prob at the battery plant and several months of production of could suffer from it. Just speculating on my part here