I have the xlr8 75a mounts. The vibrations at idle in park and neutral are fine and its not bad at all. When the car is in drive at idle its a little worse but still doesnt bother me. However, when the a/c is on and the car is in drive, the vibrations are so bad I feel like the winshield may crack lol.

Is it possible to adjust the idle and raise it by 100-200 rpms? This little increase eliminates the vibrations almsost completely. If this is possible, are there any problems that could arise from this slight increase?

 

i am not fully aware of the capabilities of the F/IC or emanage software, that is ur best bet in changing the idle rpms. since ur doing the turbo i would suggest asking the person that will be tuning ur car to see if it is possible

when i installed a twin turbo on a c6 vette, the tuning software was simply amazing. u could take/add fuel at any rpms, change the idle rpms, and so on. every little thing was customizable.

its so sad how we do not have that capability

 

I was thinking the aem fic would be the best bet. Ill have to ask rodney. I remember seeing something in regards to one of acuras maintainance service items that suggested adjusting the idle at I think 100k miles if it was too high. Maybe it can be raised using acuras software

 

sit there and hold in the gas.

 

i was just thinking, since the aem fic cant even raise the rev limiter and/or speed limiter, i kinda doubt it will be able to raise the idle rpms.

i would sent a PM to racinghart04, pretty sure thats the exact username, but might be different numbers. he is an acura master tech in jersey and has access to the HDS, its worth a shot

 

If the car has a lot of miles a simple throttle body clean up might help a bit. it will let more air around plate with out changing nothing at all.

 

NVA-AV6 told me the fic cannot adjust the idle. he also said this.. "with the DBW throttle if you try any of the other normal ways (to raise the idle) the system will throw a code and put you in limp mode."

then he said..."A trick you may try is shorting the wires to the PS pressure switch, this should make the ECU think you are turning the steering wheel at idle and raise it a couple hundred RPM."

^that sounds too sketchy for me

 

Bert,

I have had this issue too with the IM. I *HIGHLY* recommend that you do an Idle Relearn Procedure. This has always worked for me to solve this issue. Plus, the mounts will break-in (according to my experiences with the IM) and ease up some in a week or two weeks.



IDLE RELEARN PROCEDURE

First disconnect the battery and reconnect after 15 minutes.

Then,

1) With a completely cold engine (wait until late tonight or tomorrow if needed)
2) Turn off Climate Control (AC / heater), radio, headlights, seat warmer, etc.
3) Start engine
4) DON'T TOUCH THE THROTTLE or anything else
5) Allow the engine to idle for 15-20 minutes in winter, or 10-15 minutes in summer.
6) Don't touch the gas pedal, brake pedal, or anything else... ok, just reminding you


If you are comfortable to do so, you can exit and leave the car after starting it. Just remember to return in 20 minutes.

 

leave a note for the opportunity type thief-- walking on a cold night or morning--who stumbles upon a running car- Must idle another 10 minutes! lol
Lock the doors if you leave the car running~ assuming you have spare key

Does the idle compensator for the AC work- should kick up 100 or so when ac on,

as said above: clean the TB plate with carb cleaner or TB cleaner or deep creep (seafoam aerosol-lubes pivot hinge for TB air plate)

Spray one side- then have helper turn key ON so plate opens in a self test- spray the back and edges- plate closes- repeat as needed- wipe up excess runoff- put rubber snout to air filter back on and secure clamps- start engine

ever done seafoam or wynns-bg to the intake vac port and gas tank? works wonders at fixing idle probs and any carbon/glaze related issues
Run it thru the oil before change- drive 100-200 miles and really works good at freeing up the rings=better idle

if more than 75k miles maybe egr port cleaning is in order?- im gen2 and we have a severe problem with them plugging and must remove intake every 75-100kmiles to clean
Clean the Idle Air Control valve on bottem of TB while its off

 

What would be the purpose of doing the idle-relearn? I want my rpms to be 100-200 higher then normal when idling in drive. My idle is steady now. I dont see how doing the idle-relearn would help my situation. Maybe im missing something here?

Seafoam is my best friend. Ive used it numerous times in the oil, gas, and IM.

I spoke to 2 different master techs on this site and im waiting to hear back from racinghart03.

one tech said this
"The HDS can clear the idle, and then the car can relearn it. Problem is though, simply put, that the PCM, when relearning, is still shooting for a target RPM. When the idle is relearned, all loads are off, so that after that, when any load is put on, the RPM stays at at least that minimum, if not increasing slightly to compensate for the increased load.

That being said, you could technically try clearning the learned idle, and relearning it will a lot of/all the loads on, but I have a feeling your normal no load idle would then be low, causing the undesired vibration a lot more.

And with the HDS, I'm not aware of any way to adjust in manually. I mean in the list of the "inspection" (test) items in the PGM-FI menu, there is an "idle adjust" option, but that's for some of the older cars, and on the newer ones, it just does the above idle clear.

The only other thing I can recommend would be to loosen all the mounts up a few turns (of the bolts) and retighten according the manual (there is a certain pattern and torque spec, and it's not as high as you would think)."

the other one said this
"there is an idle screw on the throttle body. it realy small like an 8 or a six. try that first and do a hard reboot. take the positive and negative off and hold them together. make SURE THE CAR IS KEY OFF ENGINE OFF, do that for five minutes. then hold the car at 3000 rpms till the fans come on"