I know this has been discussed many times before...but I think this thread will help people like me that have no clue what to do

Tomorrow I am going to go buy some kind of oil and filter and then give my car to my local mechanic thats going to change the oil and filter, while I observe the whole thing to make sure he is not screwing around with anything. He said he'll charge me $15+tax, which I think is not too bad.

So for the question now, what kind of Oil and Filter should I get? I was thinking about just getting Mobil 1 0W-20, and a Mobil 1 Oil filter that works with the car (not sure which one? HELP)....What do you guys think of this combination for the TL.

 

I can't believe you wouldn't do the oil change yourself, look 1st get a STP7317 filter at your local wallmar, jack up your TL on the front passenger side, remove the wheel and there sits the oil filter, of course you will drain the oil 1st into a pan, after the oil stops to flow out, move the pan closer to catch the oil from the oil filter, turn it counterclockwise and let it drain....I will do both my TL and Ody in a few minutes ...anyways

 

Mobil 1 oil (5W/20) is fine and the Mobil 1 filter to use is the M1-104... this is the combination I use.

As HEK said, do it yourself. Get some Rhino ramps or make your own out of 2X10's (I have both). Warm the engine up some by driving the car a little (not hot, though). Drive up on the ramps, put your drain pan under the oil pan, remove the oil filler cap on the engine, then remove the drain plug and let it all drain out.

Once the oil has drained from the oil pan, put a new aluminum washer on the drain plug and put it back in, torquing it to 29 ft/lbs (or 360 inch/lbs). Loosen the old filter enough where you can then remove it by hand. Get a 1-gallon ZipLock bag and put it completely over the old filter and up over the pickup fitting, then continue to remove the filter. The ZipLock bag will catch the residual oil in the pickup and the galleries leading to it.

Once the old filter is removed, wipe the mating facing of the oil pickup with a paper towel. Spread a light coat of oil on the rubber gasket of the new filter and thread it on to the pickup nipple until the gasket contacts the pickup. Then turn it another 3/4's of a turn and it's on.

Now using a funnel, pour 4 1/2 quarts of the new oil into the engine, put the filler cap back on and you're done.

Doing it yourself means you know it was done right (assuming YOU did it right). Also, YOU control the mess and the greasey hands-on-steering-wheel-and-such, not some mechanic who doesn't have the same feelings about your car that you do.

 

SouthernBoy, did you consider Havoline 5W-20. I have been reading other threads and a lot of people say Mobil 1 is not worth the money, now I am completely confused.

 

If you supply the oil and filter why would the mechanic charge you tax. Tax on what?

 

Does the type of air filter you get affect HP?





Service.

 

Not really. I would stick with the OEM filter.

 

All of your major brand oils will work fine when used within their limitations, IE not going for the 10K or 15K oil change intervals. If you plan to change your oil every 3500-5000 miles (and even more in many "environments") conventional oil is fine.

I myself have been using Castrol 5w-20 and the Mobil-1 (104) filter like SouthernBoy suggested. I too have been contemplating switching to the Havoline 5w-20 due to our "oil experts" suggestions and additive package explanations. I change my oil when at about 40-50% on the MID, which averages 4500 to 4800 mile intervals. I can say that I have yet to see the oil level drop (burn oil) within that change interval and my TL is now 2 years old.

As for a full synthetic oil like M1, thats a personal choice. I myself, given driving style, conditions, and change interval do not think it's required and/or worth the extra $1.50 -$2.00 per quart in my TL. I do however have no issue spending twice as much on a good filter like the M104. I obviously wouldn't use just any oil, but after being an engine builder, racer, professional dealer mechanic or personal mechanic for 30 years, the filter is where I feel the importance lies.

I too change all of my own fluids. Highly recommend it - the TL is one of the easiest.

Cheers

 

I would use Havoline conventional or Motorcraft (Ford) blend in the 5W20 weight with an OEM filter. Unless your planning to extend your drain intervals, why spend the money on Mobil 1?

 

BTW, Castrol Synth was on sale at Wallymart for $12 a 5QT container, I have about 4 of those bad boys waiting to go into my vehicles...lol both Ody and TL take same oil and filter, a no brainer...

 

few possible reasons (no disrespect to anyone whatsoever):

- no jack
- no stands
- no place to do it
- no place to dump oil afterward
- afraid might get cancer by touching oil or maybe allergic
- don't want to get a little dirty
- no time
- crushed by ur own car phobia
- don't own socket set/ tools
- lives in NYC
- "i'd rather be doing somthing else" choice
- not strong enough to do it (for example the jack is heavier then my lady ha)
- list go on.....

 

I think the experts agree one of the best oils to use in the havoline
5w20 and a good filter, I use the mobil1 m-104 filter, its a little bigger
than stock.
The purolator pure 1 pl14610 is also recomended.

You can spend a lot more and not get any better oil for your car, synthetic only
makes sense if you go to extended drains.
Synthetic oil is great for turbo engines, or engines with hot spots and
people who forget to change the oil.
At 5000 mile changes, the havoline is great.

I waste money on the mobil 1 filter, you can get a goood filter a lot cheaper,
but I can never remember what brands are rated good, and I KNOW the
mobil 1 filter is very good, and most places carry it.

I like changing the oil every 5000 miles, so I can check things while doing it,
and keep an eye on the oil and filter condition.
If you go to extended drain, you can go 10,000 or 15,000 miles
on the oil and filter ( to break even cost wise) and thats just
too long to go without checking stuff in my book.

Anyway, if you change your own oil, you can use anything and still save, even if
you used a gold plated filter and some special nasa 5w20 oil, it would likely
still be cheaper than the dealers....

 

I would get the OEM filter as well.

The only problem w/doing it Ur self is the disposal of the old oil.

 

I just change the oil at 5900 miles (10% shown on MID) with 5 qts of Pennzoil 5w20 & Purolator PL14610 filter. The oil came out pretty dark...Don't need to use syn-blend if you change your oil often ~3-4k miles. I think Havoline is cheaper but I couldn't find any in NYC. Do a search, Michael Wan & RoadRage gave excellent recommendations here.

 

Sounds like you overfilled. Check your manual. The crankcase takes 4.5 quarts, not 5.

 

So you guys are saying if you change your oil every 3000-4000 miles there is no need for synthetic?? even if you push the car a bit more then normal? Oh and use Mobil-1 (104) oil filter? I know im a newbie

 

if you go syn get amsoil,So far i'm happy not gonna change till about 7500 miles

 

Its not so much the miles that i want to change my oil (cuz im going to change it at MID 30% regardless of the miles) I just want something that will help my TL in the areas of performance under severe conditions. I really dont drive the TL "easy"

 

I have been using the havoline 5w20 and the mobil 1 filter (104) but last time I changed the oil I noticed havoline has changed their formulation, its more clear, and is up one rating.
I think motorcraft synblend 5w20 is recomended and cheap, so I might try that next time. Oil companies seem to change the formulation all the time, so I might just give up and use any 5w20 brand name oil.

The mobil 1 filter costs more than others, but its well made, and i can remember
the number and find the filter at any parts place.
Fram (junk) and mobil 1 filters seem to be at every store.

I like changing my own oil, I know the job is done right, no stripped out drain plug, no extra washers on the drain plug, I fill the oil filter with oil before installing it, and clean up the drips and so on.

Brett

 

I would like to get everybody's opinions.

Just bought a 04 TL and she's got 12K miles, and running off of a dealer oil fill. In my last car I used nothing but M1 and ran the drain periods around 8K miles or so. Now I have the new car with a new job and I'm driving 3K miles a month in south Florida. It gets damn hot here in the summer, and I do like to drive hard even though most of my driving is highway (with a lot of traffic jams).

Would this be the proper situation for M1 in a TL? As I don’t want to change my oil every 2 months.

 

Sure, just run M1 (or any other 5w20) and change it per the MID.

Brett, I think Havoline has been API SM rated for quite a while already. I would use either of those oils. (MC or Havoline) I personally can't justify the extra cost for MC though.

 

10 degrees in the garage

 

Just got a new 06 TL.

For what it's worth, I asked the dealer if I should use synthetic oil and his opinion was that non-synthetic would be just fine.

I used only non-synthetic on my 02 TL and never had any problems. So I plan on doing the same with my 06.

I imagine there are cases where synthetic is better, but I would think Acura would recommend it if it's required.

 

I just wonder what havoline changed between the sl and sm rated oils.
The sl was dark, like half used oil (additives) while the sm is clear.

Iam in the camp that says it likely makes no difference what oil you use, as long as you change it at 5000 miles or under.
In other engines, like turbo's, it is important, but in any non turbo engine that holds over 5 quarts, I dont think it does.

At 3000 miles a month, I would be tempted to go synthetic and go to 12,000
mile changes. Hiway miles are good miles, and put less wear on things, and dont dirty the oil as much as lots of cold starts/short trips.

Brett

 

The additive pack they're using for the API SM version must be of a different color then. Suprisingly, the "dye" is actually one of the, if not the most expensive components of a fluid.

I wouldn't be so quick to assume that highway miles are necessary "the best" for an engine. Just for the sake of discussion, I know of one situation where the OLM in a GM vehicle called for an oil service every 8-9000 for one who drove on the highway, whereas, another person was able to go the full 12.5K between an oil service when their commute was only 8 miles in length each way. They avg about 45MPG on city streets, with occassional redlining...

The highway driving may have been more "severe" possibly due to oil oxidation from higher temps?

 

I use:
4.5 qts of either Havoline (GF-4) or Ford Motorcraft (GF-4) 5w20 oil (whichever is available at the time -- from Wal-mart or Autozone)
(Based on recomendations on this board, I gathered that I needed to look for the GF-4 certification on the back)
~$12

16oz of Valvoline MaxLife Engine Protector (Wal-Mart)
(For the molybend--somethin or other anti-wear additive)
~$4

Purolator Pure One 14610 filter (Sears)
(for 2.99, can't beat that filter)

Going to 2-3 different places seems silly to some, but I usually end up in/near these places at some point in the last 1000 miles before oil change is due and I just pick them up at that time.

Can't change your oil anywhere for less than $20 and get that kind of oil/filter combo.

I feel confident I could go by the MID Reccomendation with this oil, but I usually change it somewhere between 3000 miles and 50% Oil Life, but never more than 4000 miles.

Costs me less than the plates/tags to per year in Texas to change oil and it gives me a chance to check underneath the car/look at other items 3-4 times per year.

 

I didn't know that Sears sold PureOne filters for $2.99....I just missed the $3 MIR offer on PureOne filters at Pep Boys yesterday.

You really don't need the Maxlife Engine Protector stuff except for break-in. If you want extra anti-wear additives, I'd instead use the Valvoline Synpower Oil Treatment, which comes in a silver bottle. It costs roughly the same (actually less than the Maxlife at Kragen's) but only use 1/2 bottle, as it'll thicken the oil more than the Maxlife formula.

 

Brownie: It depends on what you mean as 'extreme'. Lot's of stop-and-go? High temperatures? Mountain driving? Dusty? Extreme cold starts?

If not, a 'normal' oil changed at 5k should do you fine.

 

I mean extreme by not only stop N go traffic... but the urge to race every now and then hehe. I think what i am going to do though, is get my "normal" oil change this time(gonna get it from Acura dealership), and swich to synthetic next oil change. Also going to use Mobile 1 104 oil filter, but dont know what synthetic to go with......

 

On alot of the threads that ive been going through alot of people have be saying havoline 5w20 and Mobile 1 104 filter are a good combination...j/w is havoline 5w20 synthetic?

 

Havoline is not synthetic; in fact, it's usually one of the less expensive name brand oils. If I understand correctly, its the additive pack and the base oil that make it good/better than others.

 

Can you recommend a good synthetic oil, i think im sold on the Mobile 1 104 filter

 

Redline is probably the best, but its ~$10 a quart

I like Royal Purple, but people on here say its crap, so it may be.

I have never liked mobil one engine oil. No reason, just gut feeling...

 

Not that I'm an expert or anything (I'm actually far from it) but one thing I heard about synthetic that sold me on it was that the molecules are smaller and are able to stick up in the engine better than conventional, which will help reduce metal on metal cold starts. But, yet again, I'm not expert and just heard this somewhere. Even though its more expensive, I figured driving it twice as long helps justify the cost.

 

This is what I would use

Havoline 5w 20 dino or syn.
Castrol 5w 20 GTX or syn.
Chevron 5w 20

and most importantly

Hamp oil filter H1540-PLC-505 Do a Google search you can find it for 6-7 bucks
that's what I'm using and is working perfectly in my 07 TL-S