AMSOIL Synthetic Transmission Fluid VS Redline D4 ATF
#1
AMSOIL Synthetic Transmission Fluid VS Redline D4 ATF
Hello every1 which one of these are better AMSOIL Synthetic Transmission Fluid VS Redline D4 ATF.
Am doing a 3X3 transmission flush. Amsoil also has the brake fluid and power steering fluid oil available. Can any of these two companies be trusted and is one better then the other.
please do not suggest me to take part of that GM synchro... whatever. I don't trust anything coming from GM.
thank you all
Am doing a 3X3 transmission flush. Amsoil also has the brake fluid and power steering fluid oil available. Can any of these two companies be trusted and is one better then the other.
please do not suggest me to take part of that GM synchro... whatever. I don't trust anything coming from GM.
thank you all
#2
i can tell u IHC vote is on on the Redline. But he will have to tell you why. I too im wondering which is better, and i also would like to do a 3x3 flush. Right now i have mobil 1 atf that was done at a oil shop where they suck the atf out and pump the new stuff back in, but nothing was ever drained. so no particles came out that was sitting n the bottom (I assume)
#6
Hello every1 which one of these are better AMSOIL Synthetic Transmission Fluid VS Redline D4 ATF.
Am doing a 3X3 transmission flush. Amsoil also has the brake fluid and power steering fluid oil available. Can any of these two companies be trusted and is one better then the other.
please do not suggest me to take part of that GM synchro... whatever. I don't trust anything coming from GM.
thank you all
Am doing a 3X3 transmission flush. Amsoil also has the brake fluid and power steering fluid oil available. Can any of these two companies be trusted and is one better then the other.
please do not suggest me to take part of that GM synchro... whatever. I don't trust anything coming from GM.
thank you all
If you do a search by my username or "Inaccurate" you will find several very detailed posts in much more detail as to why we are running these fluids.
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#8
OEM is the reason why many are having tranny failures. I went with Amsoil because it's proven. Redline hasn't been used very long in our cars, so we don't know how well it will do. But I will say my tranny shifts crisper and when cold it's a bit rough but only when cold.
#10
Both good with the nod going to Redline D4 for several reasons. As of now I would run Redline racing non FM "type F" fluid. Much better shifts, should increase trans life, and no downsides in a 3g. In a 2g without the DBW you may see harsh shifts.
If you do a search by my username or "Inaccurate" you will find several very detailed posts in much more detail as to why we are running these fluids.
If you do a search by my username or "Inaccurate" you will find several very detailed posts in much more detail as to why we are running these fluids.
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=52&pcid=9
#11
It's more of a Dextron VI replacement. Chemistry is about the same as D4 but it's a little thinner. If you live in a very cold area it could be of some benefit but otherwise D4 would likely be the better choice. I'm sure both of them will work fine. Going from memory, D4 is a little thicker than Z1 at full operating temp and D6 is a little thinner. Both start out thinner than Z1 when cold so there's still a cold start advantage over stock with both fluids.
#12
Is this the fluid you would recommend?
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=52&pcid=9
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=52&pcid=9
#16
Shifts are quicker and more positive yet you don't feel them as much as with stock fluid. My trans shifts extremely fast but I only feel the shifts under full throttle.
The TL develops a bump shift over the course of a fluid change interval with Z1 and over the life of the trans. As the shift happens with a low dynamic friction fluid like the factory Z1, the shift begins when it's supposed to but as hydraulic pressure is increased the matching of speeds of the input and output is not linear. The shift begins and it just slips for most of the duration and then all at once it engages which is what you feel inside of the car.
These fluids with a higher dynamic friction shift in a fraction of the time but since it's linear, the peak forces are less and the driver does not feel the shift. Quicker shifts also extend the life of the transmission. You see the tach drop quicker but you don't feel the shift.
Myself, Inaccurate, and a couple others are running the full non friction modified race fluids with excellent results. I've got enough miles now that I can highly recommend it to others. The racing fluid provides amazingly precise and crisp shifts yet they're far from harsh and better than stock shift quality.
#17
The right one is the top of the trans near the air filter box. This is the fill plug.
#18
so there is no filter? just drain and fill? not bad!
THats a ton of reading on those pages and the consensus changed a few times. Basically I just didnt want my transmission to shift "hard" under normal driving conditions and moderate accelerations. I like the smooth shifts at those times. If it has a harder shift if I have it nailed, thats fine though. I guess ATF is the way to go? So many choices. But I'm glad you mentioned the double bump. I have that too right now.
THats a ton of reading on those pages and the consensus changed a few times. Basically I just didnt want my transmission to shift "hard" under normal driving conditions and moderate accelerations. I like the smooth shifts at those times. If it has a harder shift if I have it nailed, thats fine though. I guess ATF is the way to go? So many choices. But I'm glad you mentioned the double bump. I have that too right now.
#19
There is a filter but the factory does not specify an interval for it. I guess it's supposed to be a liftetime filter.
There's a screen on the pickup inside of the trans that filters out the large stuff and there's a regular paper element on the outside near the top of the trans that you can replace. There's no traditional pan and filter. These are just to halves of a case bolted together with no pan. To get to the internal filter would require removing the trans from the car and disassembling it. Luckily it's a very coarse screen so unless there's a failure it's not going to get plugged up.
There's a screen on the pickup inside of the trans that filters out the large stuff and there's a regular paper element on the outside near the top of the trans that you can replace. There's no traditional pan and filter. These are just to halves of a case bolted together with no pan. To get to the internal filter would require removing the trans from the car and disassembling it. Luckily it's a very coarse screen so unless there's a failure it's not going to get plugged up.
#21
3x2 is three quarts drained and filled 2 times. 3 quarts is the capacity of the sump so it's just a simple drain and fill done twice.
#23
Myself, Inaccurate, and a couple others are running the full non friction modified race fluids with excellent results. I've got enough miles now that I can highly recommend it to others. The racing fluid provides amazingly precise and crisp shifts yet they're far from harsh and better than stock shift quality.
Also, are you running full Type F or are you mixing ATFs like Inaccurate is? (Racing ATF - Type F, D4 ATF, Lightweight Racing ATF, etc)
Sorry for all the questions
#24
Hi guys,
I have a problem to with my 07 TL base.
After a few visits at the dearship complaining about the transmision shifting very hash (down & up too) they assured me that everything is up to specs, but i am not satisfied and i still think that this car shouldn't shift so hard. So what I am asking is, if I do a tranny flush and replace the old oil (which I don't know what brand it is) with AMSOIL ATF it should smoothen the shifting a bit??? My car has 29K miles and I don't think the transmision oil was ever changed.
Thank you.
I have a problem to with my 07 TL base.
After a few visits at the dearship complaining about the transmision shifting very hash (down & up too) they assured me that everything is up to specs, but i am not satisfied and i still think that this car shouldn't shift so hard. So what I am asking is, if I do a tranny flush and replace the old oil (which I don't know what brand it is) with AMSOIL ATF it should smoothen the shifting a bit??? My car has 29K miles and I don't think the transmision oil was ever changed.
Thank you.
#25
Guys Ive been using amsoils super shift transmission fluid for around 2000 miles. Its there version of type F with no friction modifiers. Ive done 4 drain and fills in that time frame leaving me with 86% amsoil type F fluid and 14% regular amsoil synthetic trans fluid.
The shifts are very fast and firm with no slippage. I have nothing bad to say about this fluid.
If your looking for additional protection then if you have an 04-06 you can change out the paper filter. It sits below the intake box. Heres my post on replacing the stock transmission filter
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/changed-my-tranny-filter-some-tips-754525/
You can also add an inline filter from magnefine. I added this filter to compliment my transmission cooler. However, you dont need to add the trans cooler to make this filter operational. Simply buy some transmission hose and run the new hose off the 2 banjo fittings on the rear of the trans and put the filter in between.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/116-diy-transmission-cooler-5at-magnefine-filter-lots-pics-754752/
The shifts are very fast and firm with no slippage. I have nothing bad to say about this fluid.
If your looking for additional protection then if you have an 04-06 you can change out the paper filter. It sits below the intake box. Heres my post on replacing the stock transmission filter
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/changed-my-tranny-filter-some-tips-754525/
You can also add an inline filter from magnefine. I added this filter to compliment my transmission cooler. However, you dont need to add the trans cooler to make this filter operational. Simply buy some transmission hose and run the new hose off the 2 banjo fittings on the rear of the trans and put the filter in between.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/116-diy-transmission-cooler-5at-magnefine-filter-lots-pics-754752/
#26
#27
Mixing is fine.
I would recommend unhooking the battery for 20 minutes after the fluid swap if you are doing a 3x3. The trans is adaptive, and will need to relearn the shifting characteristics with the new fluid. It will do so itself over time, but might cause some goofy shifting.
I would recommend unhooking the battery for 20 minutes after the fluid swap if you are doing a 3x3. The trans is adaptive, and will need to relearn the shifting characteristics with the new fluid. It will do so itself over time, but might cause some goofy shifting.
#28
The racing "type F" fluid works better in our cars. The D4 is just the generic recommendation. It's a great fluid, I ran it for a while but I feel the type F give better shifts and quicker response without sacrificing shift quality at all. "Inaccurate" even had a conversation with Dave over at Redline about it. Very, very good stuff.
#30
Basically everything works. It's ironic because at one time everyone was afraid to run anything but the factory Z1. In reality, the chemistries are more similar than they are different.
Since the factory fluid is so heavily friction modified for super soft shifts, the only harm that can come from aftermarket fluids are firm shifts.
Now if it were the other way around and the TL used a non friction modified fluid like the Type F from the factory, you could run into slippage issues if you substituted it with Z1..
Since the factory fluid is so heavily friction modified for super soft shifts, the only harm that can come from aftermarket fluids are firm shifts.
Now if it were the other way around and the TL used a non friction modified fluid like the Type F from the factory, you could run into slippage issues if you substituted it with Z1..
#31
#32
Is it best to remove the drivers side tire? Also I am going to proceed with the D4. I do have that double bump. I suppose the D4 is good enouh to get rid of the double bump? Any shifting difference between old factory fluid and D4?
#33
I see no advantage in removing the driver-side wheel to do the trans fluid change.
In my opinion, the D4 will produces shifts which are quicker and a bit firmer than the Z1.
I have no info regarding the double bump. I had never had that issue.
In my opinion, the D4 will produces shifts which are quicker and a bit firmer than the Z1.
I have no info regarding the double bump. I had never had that issue.
#34
Chapter Leader (San Antonio)
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Joined: Oct 2008
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From: Houston, Texas
My car shifts hard and I'm up for an actual 3x3. Back then when I was a newb, I didn't realize our cars held 9 QTS. So I brought it too one guy and he did a drain and fill. Then too another and so on. 3 different types of fluid, all dirty. Now I'm trying to get 9 QTS of Redline and 3+4 gear sensors to fix everything, well hopefully.
#35
Thats a lot of fluid. Seems there should be abetter way to swap the fluid rather than going through this dril and fill cycle which still doesn't really empty out the old stuff completely. Oh well.. But there is only one place I know if dallas that sells redline. And all the Amsoil people like work out of their house. So finding fluid is like really hard. Or else ship in in. But The place where I bought mine, the guy said that the torque converter holds fluid too. Or something in there does. I thought he said torque converter.. but I dont know diddley about transmissions.
#36
I just ordered the D4. I hope I'm gonna see an improvement in how the transmision reacts because right now i an not satisfied at all!!! I love the car but I HATE the transmision. There's such a lag between gears and i have the double bump when shifting intoo drive. I just came back from Key West and all that i was thinking on the way was that ILL GET HOME AND ORDER SOME D4!!!
Hope it works. I got 9qts for $114 shipped.
Hope it works. I got 9qts for $114 shipped.
#38
I was hesitant to recommend it to the non racing, non experimental crowd before I had some wheel time but it's perfectly acceptable for the racing crowd as well as the people just looking for a replacement for Z1.
#39
well, I got enough to change the fluid twice.. if i wanna go "higher" then I can do the Racing ATF on a 3rd swap. I know some of the people on here do the change 3 times to get it as clean as possible. So thats what I am talking about.
#40
has anyone ever had a problem getting the filler bolt off? My ratchet and extension is really bending.. wont loosen. turning counter-clockwise. haha Car was at operating temp when I popped the hood and heat came rushing up. I drove it. So I know its hot enough. but is cooling now somewhat. the hood is up