AMSOIL Synthetic Transmission Fluid VS Redline D4 ATF
05-28-2010, 09:50 PM
#41
Drifting
I soaked it for 5 minute with a lubricant. And I finally got it off. Had a huge "snap" when it broke free. My ratchet and extension had probably a 35 degree twist on it, from me pulling. 1st time to remove since factory prolly.
05-28-2010, 09:52 PM
#42
Team Owner
has anyone ever had a problem getting the filler bolt off? My ratchet and extension is really bending.. wont loosen. turning counter-clockwise. haha Car was at operating temp when I popped the hood and heat came rushing up. I drove it. So I know its hot enough. but is cooling now somewhat. the hood is up
05-28-2010, 10:40 PM
#43
Drifting
I guess we are suppose to check the fluid level with the engine off. On GM's, the car is suppose to be running and hot. I basically have it done now. But I'm leaving off the plastic cover until I do it again tomorrow. or sun or mon.
05-29-2010, 11:41 AM
#45
Drifting
the manual said 36 ft. lbs. of torque, so I set my little torque wrench and tightened it. 36ftlbs is not much torque. So, anyway, I drove it for a little bit last night and I could tell it was shifting better. It does respond faster. Thats been one of my biggest issues with this car is that, you have to gas it early and you have to think twice about pulling out in front of someone. But now since its shifting faster, thats not as much of an issue. I'm also so used to my LT1 in my Camaro that I had tweaked out, that just a very small goose on the throttle would cause the back tires to spin on dry pavement. But I think the TL has some good power as it rev, but they dont torque a much like a big crank can do in a V8. But the + side of a smaller crank, it may have less torque, but it can spin faster since the diameter is more narrow. Anyway I'm getting off the subject. I have not driven my car at all today, but again, I can tell its shifting faster last night. And I think thats important. Just trying to take off in the wrong gear can give a strong engine a problem. So, its important to have a "healthy" transmission.
so anyway, is this picture really bad or normal? I cleaned off with my fingers and i could not find any metal chunks at all. except for maybe 1 itty bitty one that was maybe the size of a dust partical or half a hair in width. It looks bad in my opinion, but all that you see is/was very soft. VERY soft. So.. just wondering what your guys's looked like. mY car has 53k miles. First change ever I am pretty sure
so anyway, is this picture really bad or normal? I cleaned off with my fingers and i could not find any metal chunks at all. except for maybe 1 itty bitty one that was maybe the size of a dust partical or half a hair in width. It looks bad in my opinion, but all that you see is/was very soft. VERY soft. So.. just wondering what your guys's looked like. mY car has 53k miles. First change ever I am pretty sure
Last edited by Chad05TL; 05-29-2010 at 11:46 AM.
05-29-2010, 12:06 PM
#46
Team Owner
Looks normal.
Chad- Piston speed and displacement are what you're after in the LT1 VS TL debate.
Chad- Piston speed and displacement are what you're after in the LT1 VS TL debate.
05-29-2010, 12:42 PM
#47
Drifting
well that too. haha But lets not get into though. Theres a lot of differences. Even the transmissions and gearing.
05-30-2010, 01:02 AM
#48
Drifting
After my 2nd change, I still have not driven it yet.. (I will tomorrow morning though), I think it’s best to let the engine cool for at least 30 minutes with the hood up or maybe even an hour. I did not over tighten the fill hole screw the first time, yesterday. But it was still hard to get off. So once I realized it was going to be a pain again, I decided to let it cool. That’s basically what happened the first time anyway, except the first time I was trying over and over and over to get the screw off with no luck - until it cooled. But this time I just waited after my first try. And it worked out better. I didn’t exhaust nearly as much energy changing it the 2nd time even though the fill screw was just as stuck as the first time. So, my opinion is this: don’t let the engine get so hot the fan comes on like the BOOK says to do. This scenario is just like the time when I was changing the O2 sensor, on the exhaust pipe of my Camaro, like 4 years ago. When it’s hot, the fill screw is "swollen". Metal expands when it’s heated. Can we agree? But aluminum expands not so much when heated. The fill screw is like heavily ionized metal (because my magnet worked on it) whereas the transmission housing appears to be aluminum (and my magnet did not stick to it). So, IMO, the screw is expanding while it’s hot and this makes the loosening effort much more difficult.
But when I replaced the O2 sensor on my Camaro, I used the heat toward my advantage. Back then, when I tried unscrewing the sensor from the exhaust pipe, the engine was cold from sitting overnight. So, after trying to remove the O2 with no luck, I decided to start the engine and let it heat the exhaust. I knew the heat from the heads would heat the exhaust first and then flow outward and away from the engine gradually. And it would heat the exhaust pipe before it heated the O2 sensor. So, while the engine warmed, I applied constant pressure to the O2 sensor so I could break the hold just as the exhaust pipe began to expand. That effect is like opening your hand and releasing what you are holding. So, "short story long", it worked. I was able to replace that stuck O2 sensor with 80k miles on it. But the interesting thing is that this same condition applies here but probably at least 2 times over. Because the fill screw's "expansion rate" (due to heat), is so much greater than the expansion rate of the transmission housing(which is aluminum) that is causes the fill screw to become extremely tight in the hole. And no this is not a sexual innuendo, but all you gots to do, is let it cool.. And it loosens right up! haha
btw.. this was my lengthy extension for my camaro. I HAD to torque it straight on.. as much as possible because there is NO ROOM to twist under the hood in a Camaro. (And thats one hella cheater bar too)
But when I replaced the O2 sensor on my Camaro, I used the heat toward my advantage. Back then, when I tried unscrewing the sensor from the exhaust pipe, the engine was cold from sitting overnight. So, after trying to remove the O2 with no luck, I decided to start the engine and let it heat the exhaust. I knew the heat from the heads would heat the exhaust first and then flow outward and away from the engine gradually. And it would heat the exhaust pipe before it heated the O2 sensor. So, while the engine warmed, I applied constant pressure to the O2 sensor so I could break the hold just as the exhaust pipe began to expand. That effect is like opening your hand and releasing what you are holding. So, "short story long", it worked. I was able to replace that stuck O2 sensor with 80k miles on it. But the interesting thing is that this same condition applies here but probably at least 2 times over. Because the fill screw's "expansion rate" (due to heat), is so much greater than the expansion rate of the transmission housing(which is aluminum) that is causes the fill screw to become extremely tight in the hole. And no this is not a sexual innuendo, but all you gots to do, is let it cool.. And it loosens right up! haha
btw.. this was my lengthy extension for my camaro. I HAD to torque it straight on.. as much as possible because there is NO ROOM to twist under the hood in a Camaro. (And thats one hella cheater bar too)
Last edited by Chad05TL; 05-30-2010 at 01:17 AM.
05-30-2010, 01:37 AM
#49
Drifting
BTW, the reason I am talking so much about this filler bolt, is because that was the hardest part of the job. Overall, this was much easier than what I anticipated. I even cleaned up my car while I was doing this oil change. (like while it was draining). There are only a few steps in doing this fluid change. The only other thing that requires patience is removing the protective plastic shield underneath to access the drain plug. The plastic shield comes off pretty easy but you gotta be on your back, with the car jacked up, and reaching toward the very center of the car. because there is one bolt you gotta remove to get the plastic shield off. And I really hate being under my car. So many safety precautions you have to take. etc etc
05-30-2010, 01:38 AM
#50
Team Owner
I wouldn't put too much time into it Just tighetn with a 3/8 drive ratchet until it is barely snug while hot. Its not necessary to follow the torque spec, just use it as a maximum torque value. Since this bolt is being used as a plug and not a fastener, torque is really not important as long as its not too tight and won't come lose.. I snug it with one hand on the small ratchet and it's fairly easy to remove.
05-30-2010, 02:33 AM
#51
05' AT SSM
that is just stupid talk, the reason people have tranny problems is lack of fluid changes and fast 1st and second gear runs. Slamming on the gas from a dead stop is what kills trannys. (in most stock applications..imo)
I don't know much about Amsoil or Redline only that supercharged applications are recommended to change to Redline. Shift quality might be affected by different fluids but longevity is determined by how bad you beat on it/how often you change fluid.
No fluid is going to give quicker shifts in an Auto..isn't all controlled by the ECU? Having a harsher shift and softer shift yeah but not faster.
I don't know much about Amsoil or Redline only that supercharged applications are recommended to change to Redline. Shift quality might be affected by different fluids but longevity is determined by how bad you beat on it/how often you change fluid.
No fluid is going to give quicker shifts in an Auto..isn't all controlled by the ECU? Having a harsher shift and softer shift yeah but not faster.
05-30-2010, 02:51 AM
#52
Team Owner
that is just stupid talk, the reason people have tranny problems is lack of fluid changes and fast 1st and second gear runs. Slamming on the gas from a dead stop is what kills trannys. (in most stock applications..imo)
I don't know much about Amsoil or Redline only that supercharged applications are recommended to change to Redline. Shift quality might be affected by different fluids but longevity is determined by how bad you beat on it/how often you change fluid.
No fluid is going to give quicker shifts in an Auto..isn't all controlled by the ECU? Having a harsher shift and softer shift yeah but not faster.
I don't know much about Amsoil or Redline only that supercharged applications are recommended to change to Redline. Shift quality might be affected by different fluids but longevity is determined by how bad you beat on it/how often you change fluid.
No fluid is going to give quicker shifts in an Auto..isn't all controlled by the ECU? Having a harsher shift and softer shift yeah but not faster.
Life is primarily determined by how many shifts and duration of shifts. If you can shorten shift time by 50% you can almost extend trans life by 50%.
The reasons why and the answers to all of your other assertions are answered in this thread or the other big trans thread such as your comment on shift quality which is wrong. Typing from this phone is painfully slow so I won't go into details.
05-30-2010, 09:51 AM
#53
Drifting
The term "shift quality" is subjective in my opinion. ie. What is a good shift for you? Some people want it so smooth is beats industry standards for smoothness, (but comes at a price) and some people prefer a quicker responding transmission and a faster shift. But still, A fast shift in this TL doesn't mean it throws quality out the window. My TL actually was in dire need of some snappyness. haha And this fluid change really helped it a lot.
As of now, I just finished the 2nd fluid change and I have not driven it yet. But I did notice the fluid was again dirty although I could see a hint of red in it. But the first drain was all black. This time it was more brown than red. And still the "double bump" was there yesterday with the 1st fluid change. But the double bump (when placed in drive) was occuring faster. I'm hoping it will go away entirely.
As of now, I just finished the 2nd fluid change and I have not driven it yet. But I did notice the fluid was again dirty although I could see a hint of red in it. But the first drain was all black. This time it was more brown than red. And still the "double bump" was there yesterday with the 1st fluid change. But the double bump (when placed in drive) was occuring faster. I'm hoping it will go away entirely.
05-30-2010, 10:16 AM
#54
Safety Car
that is just stupid talk, the reason people have tranny problems is lack of fluid changes and fast 1st and second gear runs. Slamming on the gas from a dead stop is what kills trannys. (in most stock applications..imo)
I don't know much about Amsoil or Redline only that supercharged applications are recommended to change to Redline. Shift quality might be affected by different fluids but longevity is determined by how bad you beat on it/how often you change fluid.
No fluid is going to give quicker shifts in an Auto..isn't all controlled by the ECU? Having a harsher shift and softer shift yeah but not faster.
I don't know much about Amsoil or Redline only that supercharged applications are recommended to change to Redline. Shift quality might be affected by different fluids but longevity is determined by how bad you beat on it/how often you change fluid.
No fluid is going to give quicker shifts in an Auto..isn't all controlled by the ECU? Having a harsher shift and softer shift yeah but not faster.
05-30-2010, 10:34 AM
#55
Funny, I know many that drive minivans that never beat on their cars, and the transmissions went. So you are saying they are racing their minivans? They did the fluid every 30k as well. The Z1 fluid sucks period. It turns black, and you get way more debri when using it on the magnet vs other fluids like amsoil or redline. That should tell you something.
It's not just the fluid though. Crappy tranny design, coupled with a mediocre fluid and unrealistic service intervals = time for a new $3k trans.
05-30-2010, 10:56 AM
#56
Safety Car
^^ Well I am going by what is recommended by Honda themselves. With Amsoil 30k is good, Z1, 15k is good.
Fluid is the main cause as transmissions with other fluid that isn't Z1 aren't having issues.
Fluid is the main cause as transmissions with other fluid that isn't Z1 aren't having issues.
05-30-2010, 11:26 AM
#57
These cars should have come from the factory with a high quality synthetic in the tranny, they aren't $15k Chevy Cobalts.
05-30-2010, 11:37 AM
#58
Racer
After my 2nd change, I still have not driven it yet.. (I will tomorrow morning though), I think it’s best to let the engine cool for at least 30 minutes with the hood up or maybe even an hour. I did not over tighten the fill hole screw the first time, yesterday. But it was still hard to get off. So once I realized it was going to be a pain again, I decided to let it cool. That’s basically what happened the first time anyway, except the first time I was trying over and over and over to get the screw off with no luck - until it cooled. But this time I just waited after my first try. And it worked out better. I didn’t exhaust nearly as much energy changing it the 2nd time even though the fill screw was just as stuck as the first time. So, my opinion is this: don’t let the engine get so hot the fan comes on like the BOOK says to do. This scenario is just like the time when I was changing the O2 sensor, on the exhaust pipe of my Camaro, like 4 years ago. When it’s hot, the fill screw is "swollen". Metal expands when it’s heated. Can we agree? But aluminum expands not so much when heated. The fill screw is like heavily ionized metal (because my magnet worked on it) whereas the transmission housing appears to be aluminum (and my magnet did not stick to it). So, IMO, the screw is expanding while it’s hot and this makes the loosening effort much more difficult.
But when I replaced the O2 sensor on my Camaro, I used the heat toward my advantage. Back then, when I tried unscrewing the sensor from the exhaust pipe, the engine was cold from sitting overnight. So, after trying to remove the O2 with no luck, I decided to start the engine and let it heat the exhaust. I knew the heat from the heads would heat the exhaust first and then flow outward and away from the engine gradually. And it would heat the exhaust pipe before it heated the O2 sensor. So, while the engine warmed, I applied constant pressure to the O2 sensor so I could break the hold just as the exhaust pipe began to expand. That effect is like opening your hand and releasing what you are holding. So, "short story long", it worked. I was able to replace that stuck O2 sensor with 80k miles on it. But the interesting thing is that this same condition applies here but probably at least 2 times over. Because the fill screw's "expansion rate" (due to heat), is so much greater than the expansion rate of the transmission housing(which is aluminum) that is causes the fill screw to become extremely tight in the hole. And no this is not a sexual innuendo, but all you gots to do, is let it cool.. And it loosens right up! haha
btw.. this was my lengthy extension for my camaro. I HAD to torque it straight on.. as much as possible because there is NO ROOM to twist under the hood in a Camaro. (And thats one hella cheater bar too)
But when I replaced the O2 sensor on my Camaro, I used the heat toward my advantage. Back then, when I tried unscrewing the sensor from the exhaust pipe, the engine was cold from sitting overnight. So, after trying to remove the O2 with no luck, I decided to start the engine and let it heat the exhaust. I knew the heat from the heads would heat the exhaust first and then flow outward and away from the engine gradually. And it would heat the exhaust pipe before it heated the O2 sensor. So, while the engine warmed, I applied constant pressure to the O2 sensor so I could break the hold just as the exhaust pipe began to expand. That effect is like opening your hand and releasing what you are holding. So, "short story long", it worked. I was able to replace that stuck O2 sensor with 80k miles on it. But the interesting thing is that this same condition applies here but probably at least 2 times over. Because the fill screw's "expansion rate" (due to heat), is so much greater than the expansion rate of the transmission housing(which is aluminum) that is causes the fill screw to become extremely tight in the hole. And no this is not a sexual innuendo, but all you gots to do, is let it cool.. And it loosens right up! haha
btw.. this was my lengthy extension for my camaro. I HAD to torque it straight on.. as much as possible because there is NO ROOM to twist under the hood in a Camaro. (And thats one hella cheater bar too)
Take a look at the Wiki site:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coeffic...rmal_expansion
You are probably right about the temperature having an effect but it is probably the Al. transmission housing expanding when hot against the steel plug and capturing the plug.
05-30-2010, 12:43 PM
#59
Drifting
well one way or the other, whether the screw or the housing is expanding, its heat related. I'm not really sure what the metal screw plug is really made of ? Lead expands more than alum. and there could be some lead in the screw. But steal is surprisingly low. so who knows.
06-28-2010, 09:48 PM
#60
has anyone ever had a problem getting the filler bolt off? My ratchet and extension is really bending.. wont loosen. turning counter-clockwise. haha Car was at operating temp when I popped the hood and heat came rushing up. I drove it. So I know its hot enough. but is cooling now somewhat. the hood is up
How'd your drain and fill go? You went with the D4? Any noticeable difference in shifts? My '05 has 90k miles and never had the tranny fluid touched.
I think I'll ease into the 3x3 (as suggested by 'i hate cars') - maybe drain, fill with D4. Drive for a few days.....repeat 2x.
06-28-2010, 11:11 PM
#61
Drifting
Hey Chad,
How'd your drain and fill go? You went with the D4? Any noticeable difference in shifts? My '05 has 90k miles and never had the tranny fluid touched.
I think I'll ease into the 3x3 (as suggested by 'i hate cars') - maybe drain, fill with D4. Drive for a few days.....repeat 2x.
How'd your drain and fill go? You went with the D4? Any noticeable difference in shifts? My '05 has 90k miles and never had the tranny fluid touched.
I think I'll ease into the 3x3 (as suggested by 'i hate cars') - maybe drain, fill with D4. Drive for a few days.....repeat 2x.
As far as regular shifting through all the gears and under normal acceration, its definately responds faster to the gas pedal. And it doesnt really shift too much harder than when it did before the fluid change (under heavy load or particially heavy acceration). I was thinkig it might make my car feel like a Camaro with a shift kit in it.. But no. Its not that drastic. It still shifts easy, but now, it just going into gear properly under full throttle, rather than slipping so much. And also, now when I drive down the highway, it wants to stay in top gear without slipping out so easily. Like if i press on the gas slightly, you can hear the engine pull without the rpm reving up. But then of course as I give it a little more gas, it allows the rpm to go up. So, thats how I like it. before, the rpm would rev up easier on the highway just under a slight acceration. And it think thats too much slipage.
Overall, I think its weird how its slowly been working its own bugs out even after 2 or 3 weeks of driving. Immediately after then first change, the double bump into drive was just as bad if not slightly worse. But over 2 or 3 weeks, it has mostly subsided. Why? I dont know. I've done 2 of the D4 changes, and the 2nd time it was still dirty. I'm thinking about doing a 3rd change with the racing fluid. They say its ok to mix. So, 2 times with D4 and once with the racing kind. That should be good enough. Each time you change it doesnt really empty the whole thing out. Thats why we change it several times to flush out as much of the old stuff as possible. So, even if I change with this racing kind once at the end, its not like i'll be 100% racing fluid. Basically the reason I want to do that is to go a bit further to see if I can get any closer to 100% problem resolution. If you don't have any problems, then thats great.. Overall you'll just see a faster shift time. And a quicker responding transmission when you get on it.. and less slipping. Tough problems liek mine may take a while longer for the car to relearn the shifting characteristics.
Last edited by Chad05TL; 06-28-2010 at 11:15 PM.
06-28-2010, 11:50 PM
#62
Team Owner
You're going to love the racing stuff. Let us know what you think.
06-29-2010, 08:58 AM
#65
Drifting
06-29-2010, 09:54 AM
#66
Drifting
iTrader: (13)
Chad, et. al.:
I just did a full 3X3 with the Redline D4 and can confirm all of your observations.
My 06 has 63K---I did a 3X3 with Z1 last year after noticing how brown and smelly the fluid was. I also replaced the filter element and the pressure sensors while I was at it. I was not happy with the Z1 as the color had noticeably deteriorated after less than one year (which is probably normal) and the shifting was still a bit sloppy (again, probably normal given that I was using Z1).
I replaced the fluid with the Redline D4 about a month ago and I am very impressed with the quality of shifts I get now. I am hoping the D4 will be significantly more temperature tolerant, as well. I plan to install an ATF cooler and Magnefine filter to help with that. BTW, my drain plug looked like yours when I first pulled it out.
I will be following the thread for your experience with the Racing ATF, although I am pretty happy with the results from the D4 and probably will not change over anytime soon.
Thanks!
I just did a full 3X3 with the Redline D4 and can confirm all of your observations.
My 06 has 63K---I did a 3X3 with Z1 last year after noticing how brown and smelly the fluid was. I also replaced the filter element and the pressure sensors while I was at it. I was not happy with the Z1 as the color had noticeably deteriorated after less than one year (which is probably normal) and the shifting was still a bit sloppy (again, probably normal given that I was using Z1).
I replaced the fluid with the Redline D4 about a month ago and I am very impressed with the quality of shifts I get now. I am hoping the D4 will be significantly more temperature tolerant, as well. I plan to install an ATF cooler and Magnefine filter to help with that. BTW, my drain plug looked like yours when I first pulled it out.
I will be following the thread for your experience with the Racing ATF, although I am pretty happy with the results from the D4 and probably will not change over anytime soon.
Thanks!
06-29-2010, 11:51 PM
#67
Racquetballer
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I just got done with my first flush with Redline D4 and I can already tell a difference. It's holding the gear a little longer and the shifts are much smoother. Bought this car with just under 16k mi and just hit 50,000 mi. Prob the first 3x3 flush this car has seen and the color of the Z1 I drained confirmed it. Can't wait to get the other two flushes done this week. I'm also changing the 3rd & 4th pressure switches as well. Anyone think I should change the transmission filter now or wait until my next atf flush/higher mileage?
06-30-2010, 06:06 PM
#68
I also ordered a case of the D4 from Amazon for 119 with free shipping. My 2007 TLS has 15k miles but I'm gonna do the 3x3 since I just got the car and want to start off clean. It does sort of do something wierd going into 2nd or 3rd gear...need to drive it more.
I'll be running the Redline 5w20 with a RP filter as well. Wonder if I need to change the 3rd and 4th pressure switches as well? Gotta read around some more...
I'll be running the Redline 5w20 with a RP filter as well. Wonder if I need to change the 3rd and 4th pressure switches as well? Gotta read around some more...
06-30-2010, 07:48 PM
#71
Team Owner
It's better in that it gives you a crisper shift than D4. Both are great but I prefer the racing stuff. Labeling it as "racing" causes a bit of confusion. It's marketing, that's all. From softest to firmest shifts it goes Z1, D4, Racing (type F). The only thing that's different about the racing fluid from the D4 is it has less friction modifiers so the clutches grab better. I believe they use the same base oil and additives with the exception of the FM are the same. There's the lightweight racing fluid too. It's the same type F fluid but it's thinner. Especially since our TLs share fluid with the differential I would stay away from this or run it in a mix with 1/3 being the lightweight and the rest being the standard weight.
06-30-2010, 10:21 PM
#73
Senior Moderator
Only problem i have with that theory is i changed the trans fluid every oil change with 2 different trans and those trans lasted the least amount of time.(probably no direct correlation, but none the less) Especially in the 2g trans. It was just a HORRIBLE design for getting coolant to it.
06-30-2010, 10:35 PM
#74
Team Owner
Only problem i have with that theory is i changed the trans fluid every oil change with 2 different trans and those trans lasted the least amount of time.(probably no direct correlation, but none the less) Especially in the 2g trans. It was just a HORRIBLE design for getting coolant to it.
I think with the two big problems those transmission had, no amount of changing the fluid would help. Lack of lube and cooling and then the 3rd gear clutch failures.
The lube of course was fixed in the case casting the for 3G instead of the external oil jet and the 3rd gear was somewhat solved by the DBW throttle and timing retard especially on the 2-3 shift so it's not shifting at full power.
However, I strongly think the 3rd gear clutch failures were due to the solenoids. Any chance they reused your old solenoids in the replacement trans? When I was in the business it was somewhat common. I think the cars with multiple trans failures were due to the solenoids being carried over to the new unit.
06-30-2010, 10:38 PM
#75
Team Owner
I forgot to mention, it's fine to run the good fluid much longer than Z1. An ester base and a great add pack will last much longer than the dino based Z1. Since the trans does not have to deal with combustion blowby, as long as it's working good, the only thing you have to worry about is normal wear from the clutches and a very small amount of metal. I would have no problem taking it 50,000+ on Redline. In fact, I plan to change it for the last time at 100,000 and let it go until it fails.
07-01-2010, 02:59 PM
#76
4th Gear
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07-01-2010, 03:03 PM
#77
It's better in that it gives you a crisper shift than D4. Both are great but I prefer the racing stuff. Labeling it as "racing" causes a bit of confusion. It's marketing, that's all. From softest to firmest shifts it goes Z1, D4, Racing (type F). The only thing that's different about the racing fluid from the D4 is it has less friction modifiers so the clutches grab better. I believe they use the same base oil and additives with the exception of the FM are the same. There's the lightweight racing fluid too. It's the same type F fluid but it's thinner. Especially since our TLs share fluid with the differential I would stay away from this or run it in a mix with 1/3 being the lightweight and the rest being the standard weight.
damn its amazing how much you know about this stuff. you are a deep well of knowledge. thanks for the info.
07-01-2010, 03:35 PM
#78
Safety Car
If you are asking about RedLine, I order mine directly from the RedLine website. Not be the cheapest method, but it's convenient.
RedLine Website (click here)
RedLine Website (click here)
07-01-2010, 05:21 PM
#79
Drifting
I just got done with my first flush with Redline D4 and I can already tell a difference. It's holding the gear a little longer and the shifts are much smoother. Bought this car with just under 16k mi and just hit 50,000 mi. Prob the first 3x3 flush this car has seen and the color of the Z1 I drained confirmed it. Can't wait to get the other two flushes done this week. I'm also changing the 3rd & 4th pressure switches as well. Anyone think I should change the transmission filter now or wait until my next atf flush/higher mileage?
07-01-2010, 05:32 PM
#80
I just got done with my first flush with Redline D4 and I can already tell a difference. It's holding the gear a little longer and the shifts are much smoother. Bought this car with just under 16k mi and just hit 50,000 mi. Prob the first 3x3 flush this car has seen and the color of the Z1 I drained confirmed it. Can't wait to get the other two flushes done this week. I'm also changing the 3rd & 4th pressure switches as well. Anyone think I should change the transmission filter now or wait until my next atf flush/higher mileage?