Aftermarket rotors...
Aftermarket rotors...
Baer decela ($377) vs power stop(~$275) vs stoptech ($360) vs some others i am unaware off.
for 05 tl w/o brembo brakes.
I have had baer brakes in past on a mustang and I know they are great and you pay for that. Are the powerstop or stop tech just as good given the price savings.
My concern is rusting of the hat or warping. Baer & Powerstop are zink plated while stop tech has a nice balck e coat.
Thoughts please.
for 05 tl w/o brembo brakes.
I have had baer brakes in past on a mustang and I know they are great and you pay for that. Are the powerstop or stop tech just as good given the price savings.
My concern is rusting of the hat or warping. Baer & Powerstop are zink plated while stop tech has a nice balck e coat.
Thoughts please.
you'll be fine with either of the three you listed.
all three companies have been around and have excellent blanks.
I'm sure, some of the blanks are even made at the same factory then distributed to different brands.
I'm running stop tech blanks, as many others on here as XLR8 is one of our vendors and that's a brand that he sells.
if the hats are painted, there will be no rust.
and warping has become sort of a myth or misconception...
it's usually brake pad material deposited onto the rotor, giving it an uneven finish.
with that being said, I wouldnt buy cheap-o chinese rotors, tho.
but, you'll be fine with either of the three you listed.
all three companies have been around and have excellent blanks.
I'm sure, some of the blanks are even made at the same factory then distributed to different brands.
I'm running stop tech blanks, as many others on here as XLR8 is one of our vendors and that's a brand that he sells.
if the hats are painted, there will be no rust.
and warping has become sort of a myth or misconception...
it's usually brake pad material deposited onto the rotor, giving it an uneven finish.
with that being said, I wouldnt buy cheap-o chinese rotors, tho.
but, you'll be fine with either of the three you listed.
Last edited by justnspace; Jul 8, 2014 at 01:14 PM.
will the zink plating on the baer or powerstop hold up on a daily driver? rain , salt cold heat etc...
Or would I be better off with the black e coat of the stop tech?
I like the look of the black e coat too.
My old stang had the 2 piece bear rotor with annodizd black hats! That was sexy! But pricey!!
Or would I be better off with the black e coat of the stop tech?
I like the look of the black e coat too.
My old stang had the 2 piece bear rotor with annodizd black hats! That was sexy! But pricey!!
^Agree with Justin. I always just put a layer of primer (or really any paint) on the hats themselves prior to installing rotors and they will keep them from rusting. Be sure to cover the braking surface itself while painting though. A little overspray won't kill you as it will just burn off when it makes contact with the brake pads but I wouldn't want paint all over my brake pads potentially hurting the stopping power.
will the zink plating on the baer or powerstop hold up on a daily driver? rain , salt cold heat etc...
Or would I be better off with the black e coat of the stop tech?
I like the look of the black e coat too.
My old stang had the 2 piece bear rotor with annodizd black hats! That was sexy! But pricey!!
Or would I be better off with the black e coat of the stop tech?
I like the look of the black e coat too.
My old stang had the 2 piece bear rotor with annodizd black hats! That was sexy! But pricey!!
we have 2 piece rotors available, but EXPENSIVE.
check out
http://store.excelerateperformance.com/
and
www.heeltoeauto.com
for some options
I also have been having great luck with autozone pads and rotors, especially their Duralast gold cmax brand.
Ive been installing them on my friends TL's and RL's and even my '12 Kia Sportage.
Gotta agree with Justin here.. good bang for your buck. Plus if you need to do a warranty exchange on them, you just have to bring them to the store and they'll do the exchange.If you were to go with an online supplier, you'll have to wait for them to ship it to you and for you to ship it back. PITA!
I would also only go with their Duralast Gold rotors btw.
Another note.. never ever do drilled rotors (at least with these cheap drilled rotors). I learned the hard way. It'll crack on you within a year with a conservative/moderate driving style.
I would also only go with their Duralast Gold rotors btw.
Another note.. never ever do drilled rotors (at least with these cheap drilled rotors). I learned the hard way. It'll crack on you within a year with a conservative/moderate driving style.
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^nice, i forgot about the warranty.
P.s. they take them back for normal wear.
technically, you could only need to buy 1 set(front and rear) forever.
the same is true for axles from autozone. if it goes bad, bring it back
P.s. they take them back for normal wear.
technically, you could only need to buy 1 set(front and rear) forever.
the same is true for axles from autozone. if it goes bad, bring it back
I will say that their gold rotors are pretty damn good also. Ive installed a few sets on customer cars here and there and they are definitely manufactured to a higher quality than the general parts store rotors.
Just a quick correction though, those rotors only have a 2 year warranty... so you can only swap them within that first 2 years.. and the warranty does not start over with a swap...
However, I do have the EBC slotted rotors on all four corners paired with the Duralast Cmax pads, and I do have stainless lines on all four corners also...I feel the braking in my car is fantastic.
Just a quick correction though, those rotors only have a 2 year warranty... so you can only swap them within that first 2 years.. and the warranty does not start over with a swap...
However, I do have the EBC slotted rotors on all four corners paired with the Duralast Cmax pads, and I do have stainless lines on all four corners also...I feel the braking in my car is fantastic.
Last edited by JoshD_99EM1; Jul 8, 2014 at 01:34 PM. Reason: Added info :)
I really like the benefit of the look.
Or am I going to be ok with these brands?
You are going to be fine with any of them
but regardless of which you are going to get, 9 out of 10 times, a drilled rotor will crack regardless of the manufacturer.
To me, unless you track the car they are unnecessary. I get the look factor, but a slotted rotor will do you better in the long run. just my .02
but regardless of which you are going to get, 9 out of 10 times, a drilled rotor will crack regardless of the manufacturer.
To me, unless you track the car they are unnecessary. I get the look factor, but a slotted rotor will do you better in the long run. just my .02
if you really think about it, some one is taking away mass from the rotor when you drill into it.
and then, the holes are in close proximity of each other.
the edges of the holes will be super weak!
and then, the holes are in close proximity of each other.
the edges of the holes will be super weak!
Is there any actual benefit to stop tech, Baer, or power slot rotors over the oem ones? Besides the potential of no corrosion?
If they are the same diameter as the oem ones, I don't foresee any difference in stopping abilities... Or am I out to lunch?
If they are the same diameter as the oem ones, I don't foresee any difference in stopping abilities... Or am I out to lunch?
blanks vs blanks.. there isnt much of a differnce but there is some. SOme have a higher carbon content which wont wear or groove as fast and last longer. Stopping ability, theyre all pretty much the same.
Slotted rotors are where its at though IMO. There are definetly differences in those
Slotted rotors are where its at though IMO. There are definetly differences in those
Sliding Friction is calculated as: Ff = u(Fn)
Where Ff is the force due to friction
u is the coefficient of friction
Fn is the normal force being applied.
Fn in this case would be: Fn = P(A)
Where P is the pressure being applied by the brake pedal/cylinder
A is the surface area of the force being applied
Therefore, the less area you have, the less normal force is being applied to the rotor, the less friction is being created, decreasing how much stopping power you have.
The whole "but it dissipates heat!" argument is only really valid if you're at the track. Otherwise you're doing your stopping power a disservice, as your brakes will never get hot enough to warrant having slots/holes.
Exotic cars have these for the looks and actual track aspect, even though very few exotics get tracked, but also, their brakes are so huge and generally made of carbon ceramic material these days, negating the weight a steel rotor would have.
In the end, changing your pads to a more aggressive compound will help you stop better. The rotors will do nothing but look nice!
In my opinion, and again, cant stress that enough, just an opinion.
The surface area lost by the slotted rotors isn't enough to make a difference.
When they start getting drilled then yes, I can see SA being compromised..
Assuming he is just daily driving his car, then it doesnt matter at all which he gets because in the end, the car will never see the higher heat ranges nor would he need to worry about heat dissipation. Thus no point to the thread lol.
So to the OP
What are the plans for the car? If it never sees the track, it doesnt matter seems to be what the majority is saying. Youre going to get into the technical side of things where in the end, the rest of us will just be arguing over nominal dimensions in stopping distances.. which then again will get ruled out because of driver error and so the vicious cycle starts!
The surface area lost by the slotted rotors isn't enough to make a difference.
When they start getting drilled then yes, I can see SA being compromised..
Assuming he is just daily driving his car, then it doesnt matter at all which he gets because in the end, the car will never see the higher heat ranges nor would he need to worry about heat dissipation. Thus no point to the thread lol.
So to the OP
What are the plans for the car? If it never sees the track, it doesnt matter seems to be what the majority is saying. Youre going to get into the technical side of things where in the end, the rest of us will just be arguing over nominal dimensions in stopping distances.. which then again will get ruled out because of driver error and so the vicious cycle starts!
100% street car.
I am purley doing the swap for cosmetics. I love the look. Had drilled and slotted on my old stang for about 3 yrs w/o issues. Car went to the 1/4 mile track and saw street driving. Only had about 10k miles on them and they looked brand new at that point.
If the rotors mentioned above are solid, i will likely give the drilled and slotted a try. Is the cracking more a result of high temps or just inevitable over normal use and time?
I am purley doing the swap for cosmetics. I love the look. Had drilled and slotted on my old stang for about 3 yrs w/o issues. Car went to the 1/4 mile track and saw street driving. Only had about 10k miles on them and they looked brand new at that point.
If the rotors mentioned above are solid, i will likely give the drilled and slotted a try. Is the cracking more a result of high temps or just inevitable over normal use and time?
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From: www.ExceleratePerformance.com
We've had the best experiences with STOPTECH brakes. That's we designed our brake packages using their components.
http://store.excelerateperformance.c...s/g-63863.aspx
They are durable, high quality and reasonably priced.
http://store.excelerateperformance.c...s/g-63863.aspx
They are durable, high quality and reasonably priced.
I'll need to replace mine in the not to distant future, I plan on buying Brakemotive, they were a vendor here, but they stopped sponsoring I guess, they still sell on ebay though
Here's a link
http://www.brakemotive.com/listings/...ACURA/TL/6960/
Here's a link
http://www.brakemotive.com/listings/...ACURA/TL/6960/
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