Aftermarket drilled rotors
#1
Aftermarket drilled rotors
07 Type S here, it's time for a front brake job and I'm thinking of going with a set of drilled rotors. Truth be told its about 100% for the looks. I don't track the car nor really do all that much aggressive driving. So I don't want to break the bank but on the other hand don't want to get into some cheap eBay crappers that are warped in 15 minutes. Any suggestions where to shop online to get a decent looking, well-priced quality set up?
thx
thx
#2
by nature; drilling mass out of anything will be weaker.
a drilled rotor has close proximity holes that may end up cracking over time.
if you are dead set on drilled rotors; look for the well known brands..such as powerstop, stoptech, EBC, and others...
a drilled rotor has close proximity holes that may end up cracking over time.
if you are dead set on drilled rotors; look for the well known brands..such as powerstop, stoptech, EBC, and others...
#4
I agree with all that was said. Stoptech, Powerstop, and EBC are reputable brands. However, just do some research first as these have also been known to rust. The holes and strip around the rotor hat are not always protected and can produce ugly rust over time. Several Acuraziners have complained about this with Powerstop/Stoptech.You can always try painting with high temp caliper paint, but it's hard to to get every nook and cranny unless you just spray the entire rotor. Then, you have to worry about gunking up your brake pads with all of the extra paint that rubs off during your first few drives.
My brother-in-law has some Soptech drilled/slotted rotors and after about 1 year, they look like crap. He was going strictly for performance though.
I'm just giving my two cents since you mentioned you're going strictly for looks. I too have debated getting "better rotors" for looks, but at the end of the day, they're just rotors. Good luck with your decision!
My brother-in-law has some Soptech drilled/slotted rotors and after about 1 year, they look like crap. He was going strictly for performance though.
I'm just giving my two cents since you mentioned you're going strictly for looks. I too have debated getting "better rotors" for looks, but at the end of the day, they're just rotors. Good luck with your decision!
#5
“Structural Integrity” “less mass” etc is all pessimist talk. I’ve had Drilled + Slotted rotors all around for the past 14,000 miles. I drive my TL for delivery averaging 100 miles per day and I drive spiritedly. Performance is great and I haven’t had any issues yet. No cracking no brake fading no side effects at all. It’s purely looks.
#6
I'd go with slotted rotors over drilled.
I used drilled/slotted rotors from Brakemotive for over 4 years and they started rusting after 1 year and turned really ugly. If I were to buy from them again I would paint everything black except the pad contact surface.
They worked great, though.
I've since gone back to just blank rotors - High Carbon Centric rotors and prefer the clean and shiny no rust disk behind the wheel opposed to a rusted drilled/slotted rotor.
This picture was taken back in 2014 and I used them up until last fall so you can imagine how much rustier it was. It's only surface rust in this picture but the slots and holes just got so rusty over time.
I used drilled/slotted rotors from Brakemotive for over 4 years and they started rusting after 1 year and turned really ugly. If I were to buy from them again I would paint everything black except the pad contact surface.
They worked great, though.
I've since gone back to just blank rotors - High Carbon Centric rotors and prefer the clean and shiny no rust disk behind the wheel opposed to a rusted drilled/slotted rotor.
This picture was taken back in 2014 and I used them up until last fall so you can imagine how much rustier it was. It's only surface rust in this picture but the slots and holes just got so rusty over time.
Last edited by guitarplayer16; 05-04-2018 at 11:36 AM.
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#9
I'd go with slotted rotors over drilled.
I used drilled/slotted rotors from Brakemotive for over 4 years and they started rusting after 1 year and turned really ugly. If I were to buy from them again I would paint everything black except the pad contact surface.
They worked great, though.
I've since gone back to just blank rotors - High Carbon Centric rotors and prefer the clean and shiny no rust disk behind the wheel opposed to a rusted drilled/slotted rotor.
This picture was taken back in 2014 and I used them up until last fall so you can imagine how much rustier it was. It's only surface rust in this picture but the slots and holes just got so rusty over time.
I used drilled/slotted rotors from Brakemotive for over 4 years and they started rusting after 1 year and turned really ugly. If I were to buy from them again I would paint everything black except the pad contact surface.
They worked great, though.
I've since gone back to just blank rotors - High Carbon Centric rotors and prefer the clean and shiny no rust disk behind the wheel opposed to a rusted drilled/slotted rotor.
This picture was taken back in 2014 and I used them up until last fall so you can imagine how much rustier it was. It's only surface rust in this picture but the slots and holes just got so rusty over time.
Centric blanks are probably what I will get when it's time for replacing my rotors as well. Stoptch/Powerstop is just the high performance racing brand from Centric Parts.
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justnspace (05-04-2018)
#10
“Structural Integrity” “less mass” etc is all pessimist talk. I’ve had Drilled + Slotted rotors all around for the past 14,000 miles. I drive my TL for delivery averaging 100 miles per day and I drive spiritedly. Performance is great and I haven’t had any issues yet. No cracking no brake fading no side effects at all. It’s purely looks.
#11
i posted a pic above when they were brand new. Here’s a pic after 14,000 miles. They are Stoptech. Ofcourse if you live in the Midwest or East Coast then rust is like death and taxes. I live in the West Coast rust is a word rarely used in our daily lives
#13
I always thought Stoptech rotors had coated hats ^^
No problem! They got a lot worse, especially where the holes chamfer.
Thanks for sharing that picture. That's exactly what my concern was pointing towards. That surface rest gets everywhere unfortunately.
Centric blanks are probably what I will get when it's time for replacing my rotors as well. Stoptch/Powerstop is just the high performance racing brand from Centric Parts.
Centric blanks are probably what I will get when it's time for replacing my rotors as well. Stoptch/Powerstop is just the high performance racing brand from Centric Parts.
Last edited by guitarplayer16; 05-04-2018 at 02:57 PM.
#16
The rotors in the photos are coated. They have a zinc plating, which works fine in non-salted road environments.
Completely non-coated rotors will rust, even in CA.
Organic coating is better. Or...just clean them properly and shoot them with caliper paint.
OP....rockauto usually has low pricing on drilled rotors.
Nobody's driving style produces enough heat to warp a thick cast iron disk that has a melting point of 2500F.
So....they won't warp unless your hubs are bent or you improperly torque the lug nuts.
The following users liked this post:
EvilVirus (05-14-2018)
#17
The rotors in the photos are coated. They have a zinc plating, which works fine in non-salted road environments.
Completely non-coated rotors will rust, even in CA.
Organic coating is better. Or...just clean them properly and shoot them with caliper paint.
OP....rockauto usually has low pricing on drilled rotors.
Nobody's driving style produces enough heat to warp a thick cast iron disk that has a melting point of 2500F.
So....they won't warp unless your hubs are bent or you improperly torque the lug nuts.
Completely non-coated rotors will rust, even in CA.
Organic coating is better. Or...just clean them properly and shoot them with caliper paint.
OP....rockauto usually has low pricing on drilled rotors.
Nobody's driving style produces enough heat to warp a thick cast iron disk that has a melting point of 2500F.
So....they won't warp unless your hubs are bent or you improperly torque the lug nuts.
Last edited by guitarplayer16; 05-06-2018 at 05:37 PM.
#18
Most rotors come bare cast iron. Zinc plated ones have added cost and have added rust protection. But zinc does a shit job at it.
And yes....most manufacturers are moving to E-coat (the black coating). Its an epoxy coat, though...so over time, it peels away in the sun...and it isn't as high temp resistant as zinc.
So I just buy plain-assed rotors and paint them with caliper or flame proof paint. Kinda the best of both worlds! But it does make a mess on the pads for a while.
#23
“Structural Integrity” “less mass” etc is all pessimist talk. I’ve had Drilled + Slotted rotors all around for the past 14,000 miles. I drive my TL for delivery averaging 100 miles per day and I drive spiritedly. Performance is great and I haven’t had any issues yet. No cracking no brake fading no side effects at all. It’s purely looks.
#24
I got mine from Adams Rotors they haven't rusted are holding up Great after several years of use out here in SoCal.
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