Advice regarding replacement of rear calipers
Advice regarding replacement of rear calipers
Hi so as the title says, both my rear calipers need to be replaced. They are sticking and ate through brand new pads in under a year 
Now my question is: My Haynes manual tells me to always change both at the same time, never only one. Would it be safe to rebuild the left one and replace the right one? I'm asking because the right one is completely screwed, the bleeder bolt is seized real good and the caliper is just in really poor shape. The left one doesnt look so bad. I bled it a couple months ago with no issue and it looks better. So what's your take on this, can I just rebuild the left one and replace the right one?
Thanks

Now my question is: My Haynes manual tells me to always change both at the same time, never only one. Would it be safe to rebuild the left one and replace the right one? I'm asking because the right one is completely screwed, the bleeder bolt is seized real good and the caliper is just in really poor shape. The left one doesnt look so bad. I bled it a couple months ago with no issue and it looks better. So what's your take on this, can I just rebuild the left one and replace the right one?
Thanks
Sure thing. As long as its rebuilt properly it should operate as new. 
Don't forget to check your rotors too if your pads went out in under a year. Too deep of a groove or too thin and it's no bueno.

Don't forget to check your rotors too if your pads went out in under a year. Too deep of a groove or too thin and it's no bueno.
The discs look OK. I might change them though because they're shitty painted rotors and they already look bad after just 1 year.
If you know how to rebuild the caliber, clean up the bore, install new seal and boot, you'd be good to go, then just install the rebuilt caliper on the other side. Also, give the rubber hoses a good inspection.
I don't have a fluid leak as far as I know but I'll check the lines for sure.
inside your piston there are two boot,one like the o-ring that is your seal and flex back once the pedal being release. The big one is dust boot, they are tricky to put back together, it took me 30 mins for the first side complete rebuilt and 5 mins for the other side.
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Read a couple diy threads from people doing it on bmws Toyotas and Hondas. Couldn't find anything on our cars but I'm guessing if those 3 looked very similar then the 3g TL can't be too weird right? I mean it looks like the worst part is getting the piston back in place once everything is cleaned up which doesn't require specific tools.
I don't have a fluid leak as far as I know but I'll check the lines for sure.
I don't have a fluid leak as far as I know but I'll check the lines for sure.
Use fine crocus cloth to clean up the bore.
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