Acura TL, 2008, with 153,000 miles, Oil pump leak
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Acura TL, 2008, with 153,000 miles, Oil pump leak
So i have had this one for a long time now, i consider myself very lucky not have had transmission issues and no other Major issues but Now, Oil pump seal is leaking but Not pouring out yet, and i am being told it will cost $1600 to fix this one. Car is only worth around $5000 at Best. Should i fix this ? Should i just leave it leaking and drive it for another 5000-10,000 miles ? or should i just buy the new TLX 2018 ? Thank you in advance
#2
Senior Moderator
well how bad is the leak? if you can just keep pouring oil in and drive it longer, than don't worry about it.
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Nostradamus (04-10-2018)
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
LOL,,, really ? is that ok ? Leak must not be really bad since when i checked at 30 % to where i need to change oil,, oil level was still within acceptable level, wasn't low. lol So i am thinking it isn't a big time leak. but it is leaking because Dealership mechanic did show it to me and i saw some oil specs and spatter on the bottom of oil pan. So you think i can still go 10,000 miles more with this car ?? How long the 2008 TL last realistically ??
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Nostradamus (04-10-2018)
#5
Instructor
Thread Starter
#6
Senior Moderator
it's a minor annoyance at that point.. dont' even worry about it
you can fix it in the future the next time you do the timing belt at the same time
you can fix it in the future the next time you do the timing belt at the same time
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#8
Instructor
Thread Starter
i was also told that my Power steering fluid is leaking. i did notice little more force needed to turn the steering. is this something that i can just keep filling it up if low and not fix it ?? Dealership quoted me $800-$900 to fix this power steering fluid leak as well.
#9
08 TL type-S
Hey Nostradamus, you can predict the future of your car !
In all seriousness, you can look at my recent thread here and I have the same issues you are facing. I have 150,000 miles on my 08 TL-S. The dealer will overprice these maintenance problems big time. I was able to buy some of my own parts and there is guy I know here that has a Acura/Honda shop and is reasonable. I walked away paying $1,200.00 plus I bought some of the parts. I got the oem rebuilt rack & pinion, an oem clutch, and he put them in for me. Not to mention, I had the oil leaking from the main seal , like you, and he sealed that too. That is easy, just a seal, but the whole engine needs to nearly be removed is the tough part. It is time consuming. Anyway, many of us have had these same issues, and I can help you as well as others on here to get the parts yourself and avoid the acura dealer!
p.s. I drove around for one year with my power steering fluid leaking. You can buy sealant (Devil brand) and keep driving around. Your oil leak can be sealed , just put cardboard under your car on your driveway because it is going to stain the driveway. Do not buy the 2018 TLX , it is no better than our current 07-08 TL's. Wait like myself for the turbo V6 TL that is coming...
In all, I paid around $1,500 or $1,600 including parts I bought, but my car is back on track
New Oem Clutch
New rear main seal for Oil leak
New rebuilt rack & pinion
New battery cable / new battery (corrosion)
New starter
2008 Acura TL-S 6 speed , 150,000 miles
In all seriousness, you can look at my recent thread here and I have the same issues you are facing. I have 150,000 miles on my 08 TL-S. The dealer will overprice these maintenance problems big time. I was able to buy some of my own parts and there is guy I know here that has a Acura/Honda shop and is reasonable. I walked away paying $1,200.00 plus I bought some of the parts. I got the oem rebuilt rack & pinion, an oem clutch, and he put them in for me. Not to mention, I had the oil leaking from the main seal , like you, and he sealed that too. That is easy, just a seal, but the whole engine needs to nearly be removed is the tough part. It is time consuming. Anyway, many of us have had these same issues, and I can help you as well as others on here to get the parts yourself and avoid the acura dealer!
p.s. I drove around for one year with my power steering fluid leaking. You can buy sealant (Devil brand) and keep driving around. Your oil leak can be sealed , just put cardboard under your car on your driveway because it is going to stain the driveway. Do not buy the 2018 TLX , it is no better than our current 07-08 TL's. Wait like myself for the turbo V6 TL that is coming...
In all, I paid around $1,500 or $1,600 including parts I bought, but my car is back on track
New Oem Clutch
New rear main seal for Oil leak
New rebuilt rack & pinion
New battery cable / new battery (corrosion)
New starter
2008 Acura TL-S 6 speed , 150,000 miles
Last edited by StealthTL-S; 04-10-2018 at 05:00 PM.
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#10
My 07 has 263,000 miles and has had an oil pump leak for about 4 years and over 100,000 miles. My leak is minor and my dealer/shop also wanted about $1600 to fix....I said no thanks. I never have drips in garage and never have to add oil, but hell....even if I did it is way cheaper than $1600. Unless the leak is very severe I would just live with it. I only ocassionally smell a bit of burned oil at stop lights and my oil pan has a very thin film when I do an oil change. Other than that I am fine with it. $1600 buys lots of beer, a new Telecaster and a couple of nights out.
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#11
Instructor
Thread Starter
My 07 has 263,000 miles and has had an oil pump leak for about 4 years and over 100,000 miles. My leak is minor and my dealer/shop also wanted about $1600 to fix....I said no thanks. I never have drips in garage and never have to add oil, but hell....even if I did it is way cheaper than $1600. Unless the leak is very severe I would just live with it. I only ocassionally smell a bit of burned oil at stop lights and my oil pan has a very thin film when I do an oil change. Other than that I am fine with it. $1600 buys lots of beer, a new Telecaster and a couple of nights out.
#12
Drifting
Not kidding
It's just in the 125-175K range they need some parts replaced--routine maintenance. After that, they coast up to 225K, need a little more attention and then head for 300K .
The leaks you describe are so minor I wouldn't bother, either.
You could have several '08 TLs for the cost of a new one--and they wouldn't depreciate as much, either.
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Nostradamus (04-10-2018)
#13
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Just change the oil every 3k miles.. if you're seeing less than a quart of loss in that time, you can stretch as needed.
The P/S leak is more concerning. That will get all over the drive belt.
It's very common for the hoses to leak over time. The hoses are thick but start to sponge and sieve P/S oil after a while.
Verify it's not an o-ring / seal that's leaking. Essentially isolate where the leak is coming from.
Replacing the H/P P/S hose is a PITA. Everything else is cake.
The P/S leak is more concerning. That will get all over the drive belt.
It's very common for the hoses to leak over time. The hoses are thick but start to sponge and sieve P/S oil after a while.
Verify it's not an o-ring / seal that's leaking. Essentially isolate where the leak is coming from.
Replacing the H/P P/S hose is a PITA. Everything else is cake.
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Nostradamus (04-10-2018)
#14
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Best way to measure oil loss is drain into a pan on next OCI.
Buy a 5qt jug of oil. Refill with jug, then dump old oil into jug.
Jug should have marks for every quart.
Easy.
Buy a 5qt jug of oil. Refill with jug, then dump old oil into jug.
Jug should have marks for every quart.
Easy.
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Nostradamus (04-10-2018)
#16
Instructor
Thread Starter
Just change the oil every 3k miles.. if you're seeing less than a quart of loss in that time, you can stretch as needed.
The P/S leak is more concerning. That will get all over the drive belt.
It's very common for the hoses to leak over time. The hoses are thick but start to sponge and sieve P/S oil after a while.
Verify it's not an o-ring / seal that's leaking. Essentially isolate where the leak is coming from.
Replacing the H/P P/S hose is a PITA. Everything else is cake.
The P/S leak is more concerning. That will get all over the drive belt.
It's very common for the hoses to leak over time. The hoses are thick but start to sponge and sieve P/S oil after a while.
Verify it's not an o-ring / seal that's leaking. Essentially isolate where the leak is coming from.
Replacing the H/P P/S hose is a PITA. Everything else is cake.
#17
Instructor
Thread Starter
Yes ,, i am not fixing it but i do have problem with some burining oil smell in the cabin sometimes. i Hate that. but it is just Too Expensive to fix this,, $1600,, it is Ridiculous in the car that is only worth $4000-5000 at most. So i may not have a choice but just buy a New TLX very soon.........
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#19
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
it really is major work, the part Oil pump seal isn't expensive but Labor is very expensive, takes hours to do this work as much as replacing the timing belt. so i am not going to fix it.. but it is concerning that acura mechanic said the oil leak there is spilling over into the Timing belt and eventually it will soak it and Timing belt can break. That is worriesome. but then another mechanic said it is possible but he's never seen it acutally happen............
It's a couple of extra hours. The likelihood of the timing belt getting soaked in oil from the oil pump is slim.
It usually weeps past it. Since it's covered, air can't blow the oil around and contaminate your belt.
It usually leaks under the cover and then down to you pan and beyond.
I've seen many of the same leaks, but never a timing belt covered in oil from it.
Even if it were the front main seal / crank pulley seal, I've never heard of the t-belt getting soaked and being compromised from it.
That one would be more likely to touch the t-belt than the oil pump leak.
The P/S leak though. That shit will blow everywhere.
It will get on your drivebelt and could compromise it, that's happened to me.
It will particularly leak down to your 3rd catalytic converter and burn.
It could catch fire. I've seen that as well.
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Nostradamus (04-10-2018)
#20
Instructor
Thread Starter
Understand what you mean, i did test drive the new TLX 2018 and it didn't drive any better than my 2008 TL. it didn't have that much more power and it didn't handle much better either. but having said that, my 2008 TL is getting Old and leather seat is starting to crack up and Middle divider leather Arm rest is crunched up and needs to be replaced. and also Oil is leaking in Oil pump seal and it does smell sometimes because of burn, i think. Or maybe it is power steering fluid leak that is burning ?? Not sure but i do smell oil burn smell sometimes inside the car and it is bothersome. So because of these things,, i am heavily leaning toward getting the NEW 2018 TLX very soon..............
#21
Instructor
Thread Starter
If you wait to reseal the oil pump when you do your next timing belt replacement, it's not bad at all.
It's a couple of extra hours. The likelihood of the timing belt getting soaked in oil from the oil pump is slim.
It usually weeps past it. Since it's covered, air can't blow the oil around and contaminate your belt.
It usually leaks under the cover and then down to you pan and beyond.
I've seen many of the same leaks, but never a timing belt covered in oil from it.
Even if it were the front main seal / crank pulley seal, I've never heard of the t-belt getting soaked and being compromised from it.
That one would be more likely to touch the t-belt than the oil pump leak.
The P/S leak though. That shit will blow everywhere.
It will get on your drivebelt and could compromise it, that's happened to me.
It will particularly leak down to your 3rd catalytic converter and burn.
It could catch fire. I've seen that as well.
It's a couple of extra hours. The likelihood of the timing belt getting soaked in oil from the oil pump is slim.
It usually weeps past it. Since it's covered, air can't blow the oil around and contaminate your belt.
It usually leaks under the cover and then down to you pan and beyond.
I've seen many of the same leaks, but never a timing belt covered in oil from it.
Even if it were the front main seal / crank pulley seal, I've never heard of the t-belt getting soaked and being compromised from it.
That one would be more likely to touch the t-belt than the oil pump leak.
The P/S leak though. That shit will blow everywhere.
It will get on your drivebelt and could compromise it, that's happened to me.
It will particularly leak down to your 3rd catalytic converter and burn.
It could catch fire. I've seen that as well.
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Nostradamus (04-10-2018)
#23
Instructor
Thread Starter
Ok i will ask my Acura dealer to fix it but it is like $600-700, not cheap. Are you sure it is PS fluid and not the Oil pump seal leak ? i don't smell it all the time but just after i drive for a while.
#24
Drifting
It may just be the o-ring at the pump, kinda hard to see from here, but if it is...get that fixed or be a road hazard and give us all a bad name..jk
If you're going through oil as discussed and the BOTTOM is wet with fluid, then I'd guess that. But "all over" and "smelly" is what PS fluid all over a hot motor does, and if it's that bad it needs to be fixed for safety reasons.
But I could be wrong...
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Nostradamus (04-10-2018)
#25
Instructor
Thread Starter
If it's the PS hose there was a recall to fix--ask about that.
It may just be the o-ring at the pump, kinda hard to see from here, but if it is...get that fixed or be a road hazard and give us all a bad name..jk
If you're going through oil as discussed and the BOTTOM is wet with fluid, then I'd guess that. But "all over" and "smelly" is what PS fluid all over a hot motor does, and if it's that bad it needs to be fixed for safety reasons.
But I could be wrong...
It may just be the o-ring at the pump, kinda hard to see from here, but if it is...get that fixed or be a road hazard and give us all a bad name..jk
If you're going through oil as discussed and the BOTTOM is wet with fluid, then I'd guess that. But "all over" and "smelly" is what PS fluid all over a hot motor does, and if it's that bad it needs to be fixed for safety reasons.
But I could be wrong...
#26
Again, I would live with the oil leak and hold out on the TLX until new generation if at all possible. I love how my TL drives and have never had a good experience with the ZF9 on my multiple test drives. The somewhat random vibration issues with random or no fixes also make me not consider the current TLX. You asked in your first post.....Keep the TL.
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Nostradamus (04-25-2018)
#27
Suzuka Master
I would address the PS fluid leak immediately as it will lead to serious consequence. Oil pump assembly leakage does not damage anything mechanically it just annoying and the leak is super slow.
I got a really good laugh when my dealer "sale associate" trying get me to trade in, the service advisor and my mechanic both laugh after see he walk away disappointed. I drove all the new Acura line up and that including the 2nd gen NSX, nothing really impress me even the 2nd gen NSX (I would prefer the drive feeling on the 1st gen NSX). TLX Aspec is a big flop (I don't even care for regular TLX), they slightly tighten the suspension and put different bumpers and 19" wheel and call it aspec (IMO I would rather take the 04-08 TL FULL Aspec)
If you looking to buy a new car how about looking at the IS350 and the Q50s?
I got a really good laugh when my dealer "sale associate" trying get me to trade in, the service advisor and my mechanic both laugh after see he walk away disappointed. I drove all the new Acura line up and that including the 2nd gen NSX, nothing really impress me even the 2nd gen NSX (I would prefer the drive feeling on the 1st gen NSX). TLX Aspec is a big flop (I don't even care for regular TLX), they slightly tighten the suspension and put different bumpers and 19" wheel and call it aspec (IMO I would rather take the 04-08 TL FULL Aspec)
If you looking to buy a new car how about looking at the IS350 and the Q50s?
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Nostradamus (04-25-2018)
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#30
Instructor
Thread Starter
I would address the PS fluid leak immediately as it will lead to serious consequence. Oil pump assembly leakage does not damage anything mechanically it just annoying and the leak is super slow.
I got a really good laugh when my dealer "sale associate" trying get me to trade in, the service advisor and my mechanic both laugh after see he walk away disappointed. I drove all the new Acura line up and that including the 2nd gen NSX, nothing really impress me even the 2nd gen NSX (I would prefer the drive feeling on the 1st gen NSX). TLX Aspec is a big flop (I don't even care for regular TLX), they slightly tighten the suspension and put different bumpers and 19" wheel and call it aspec (IMO I would rather take the 04-08 TL FULL Aspec)
If you looking to buy a new car how about looking at the IS350 and the Q50s?
I got a really good laugh when my dealer "sale associate" trying get me to trade in, the service advisor and my mechanic both laugh after see he walk away disappointed. I drove all the new Acura line up and that including the 2nd gen NSX, nothing really impress me even the 2nd gen NSX (I would prefer the drive feeling on the 1st gen NSX). TLX Aspec is a big flop (I don't even care for regular TLX), they slightly tighten the suspension and put different bumpers and 19" wheel and call it aspec (IMO I would rather take the 04-08 TL FULL Aspec)
If you looking to buy a new car how about looking at the IS350 and the Q50s?
#31
Burning Brakes
Same here... I'm going through this process right now. It's definitely a dilemma. I have a tentative appointment with my local Honda dealership on Monday, 4/30/18 to get the oil pump seal fixed. I have to double check my power steering pump again tonight, but I'm fairly positive it's the oil pump seal. I was quoted $800-900, but I know a technician who said he can get me a better discount. Here's to hoping it all works out!
#32
Burning Brakes
Guy with a MDX did this just 1 month ago:
https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-2g-m...mp-fun-968329/
It's not a hard job, but it's time consuming and definitely better to do it during a timing belt job. Engine needs to be supported while oil pan is removed, prior to that, the exhaust J-pipe needs to be removed. I have had the same leak on my Accord V6 for over 40k miles and there is hardly any oil loss in between oil changes. Planning to do this next year.
Regarding the power steering fluid leak, you need to check the lower hose by the passenger side, the one that's very hard to reach. It took me some time to replace this because it's located at the rear lower side of the engine. It is the the power steering hose that gets the most environment exposure. I had the same symptom with the steering a little harder to turn when cold.
https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-2g-m...mp-fun-968329/
It's not a hard job, but it's time consuming and definitely better to do it during a timing belt job. Engine needs to be supported while oil pan is removed, prior to that, the exhaust J-pipe needs to be removed. I have had the same leak on my Accord V6 for over 40k miles and there is hardly any oil loss in between oil changes. Planning to do this next year.
Regarding the power steering fluid leak, you need to check the lower hose by the passenger side, the one that's very hard to reach. It took me some time to replace this because it's located at the rear lower side of the engine. It is the the power steering hose that gets the most environment exposure. I had the same symptom with the steering a little harder to turn when cold.
#33
I know this is an old thread, but came across it as I have an 06 TL (280K miles) and needing to do this (oil pump reseal). Where did you get your OEM parts, also rebuilt rack&pinion as I need that as well
#34
My 07 has 263,000 miles and has had an oil pump leak for about 4 years and over 100,000 miles. My leak is minor and my dealer/shop also wanted about $1600 to fix....I said no thanks. I never have drips in garage and never have to add oil, but hell....even if I did it is way cheaper than $1600. Unless the leak is very severe I would just live with it. I only ocassionally smell a bit of burned oil at stop lights and my oil pan has a very thin film when I do an oil change. Other than that I am fine with it. $1600 buys lots of beer, a new Telecaster and a couple of nights out.
#36
10th Gear
1. Pickup tube: 91310-PH7-000
2. Oil pump (the one that's leaking): 15115-P8A-A02
3. First o-ring for the oil galley pipe, it's a short metal tube that's immediately visible once you remove the oil pump in the top-most hole: 91308-P8A-A01
4. Second o-ring for the oil galley pipe: 91309-P8A-A01
5. Oil filter housing o-ring: 15825-P8A-A01
6. Oil filter housing solenoid #1 o-ring: 36172-P8A-A01
7. Oil filter housing solenoid #2 o-ring: 91319-PR3-003
The front crank seal part number is 91212-R70-A01 or 91212-5MR-A01. Right and left cam seal part numbers are both 91213-P8A-A01 or 91213-R70-A02. I would order a tube of Hondabond (08718-0004) though I'm sure Permatex Gray would be okay. A few cans of brake cleaner helps a ton. You will need to drop part of your exhaust to get the pan off so if you need studs/nuts, get those as well. My oil pump leak completely ruined my lower timing cover and crank sensor harness so I got a new ones. For your 06, it's 11810-RCA-A01 and 37501-RCA-A01, respectively. I would only replace them if they're damaged. For some advice... The pan on my Type-S cleared the subframe but on my 08 base TL, I needed to jack the motor up via the A/C compressor bracket an inch or so. When installing the pan, get the 17mm bellhousing bolts lightly snugged against the transmission first then tighten the 10mm bolts. The front crank seal gets pushed in until it's flush with the oil pump housing. Install the oil pump on the block first then install the crank seal. It's very difficult to do it the other way around. The two cam seals are driven in 0.5 - 1.5mm past the surface. I made a contraption with PVC components and some metric hardware bolts to drive them in. If it's too much of a hassle and they're not leaking, leave them alone. The bolts for the oil filter housing are only torqued to 16 lb-ft. Don't be a doorbell like me and strip out the threads due to overtightening. Doing the entire job over again and getting a Heli-Coil in there was a pain in the dingdong. If you can't get the crank bolt off, borrow a friend's 1/2 impact and use a Lisle 77080, works every time. I'm 99% sure that the part numbers I gave you are correct but I would confirm using the parts diagrams on the site I mentioned earlier. I think most of it's under Engine>Cylinder Block - Oil Pump and Engine>Camshaft - Timing Belt. There's a thread somewhere on this forum with a link to the service manual that will be of great help. If you can't find it, I'll send it to you. I've done this job a few times since on various Hondas/Acuras since then so if you have any questions, feel free to ask.
On a related note, common oil leaks on the back side of the motor are the two large o-rings for the cam plugs, the o-ring in the rear main seal cover plate, and the rear main seal itself.
Last edited by tylertran; 08-16-2021 at 12:19 AM.
#37
I got all my parts for an oil pump reseal on acurapartswarehouse.com and an Aisin kit on Amazon for the timing belt kit. My rack was replaced with a rebuilt Cardone one from RockAuto. There are 7 oil o-rings on the bottom-side, front end of the block. You should address all of them at the same time since all the components will be out anyway. They go as follows:
1. Pickup tube: 91310-PH7-000
2. Oil pump (the one that's leaking): 15115-P8A-A02
3. First o-ring for the oil galley pipe, it's a short metal tube that's immediately visible once you remove the oil pump in the top-most hole: 91308-P8A-A01
4. Second o-ring for the oil galley pipe: 91309-P8A-A01
5. Oil filter housing o-ring: 15825-P8A-A01
6. Oil filter housing solenoid #1 o-ring: 36172-P8A-A01
7. Oil filter housing solenoid #2 o-ring: 91319-PR3-003
The front crank seal part number is 91212-R70-A01 or 91212-5MR-A01. Right and left cam seal part numbers are both 91213-P8A-A01 or 91213-R70-A02. I would order a tube of Hondabond (08718-0004) though I'm sure Permatex Gray would be okay. A few cans of brake cleaner helps a ton. You will need to drop part of your exhaust to get the pan off so if you need studs/nuts, get those as well. My oil pump leak completely ruined my lower timing cover and crank sensor harness so I got a new ones. For your 06, it's 11810-RCA-A01 and 37501-RCA-A01, respectively. I would only replace them if they're damaged. For some advice... The pan on my Type-S cleared the subframe but on my 08 base TL, I needed to jack the motor up via the A/C compressor bracket an inch or so. When installing the pan, get the 17mm bellhousing bolts lightly snugged against the transmission first then tighten the 10mm bolts. The front crank seal gets pushed in until it's flush with the oil pump housing. Install the oil pump on the block first then install the crank seal. It's very difficult to do it the other way around. The two cam seals are driven in 0.5 - 1.5mm past the surface. I made a contraption with PVC components and some metric hardware bolts to drive them in. If it's too much of a hassle and they're not leaking, leave them alone. The bolts for the oil filter housing are only torqued to 16 lb-ft. Don't be a doorbell like me and strip out the threads due to overtightening. Doing the entire job over again and getting a Heli-Coil in there was a pain in the dingdong. If you can't get the crank bolt off, borrow a friend's 1/2 impact and use a Lisle 77080, works every time. I'm 99% sure that the part numbers I gave you are correct but I would confirm using the parts diagrams on the site I mentioned earlier. I think most of it's under Engine>Cylinder Block - Oil Pump and Engine>Camshaft - Timing Belt. There's a thread somewhere on this forum with a link to the service manual that will be of great help. If you can't find it, I'll send it to you. I've done this job a few times since on various Hondas/Acuras since then so if you have any questions, feel free to ask.
On a related note, common oil leaks on the back side of the motor are the two large o-rings for the cam plugs, the o-ring in the rear main seal cover plate, and the rear main seal itself.
1. Pickup tube: 91310-PH7-000
2. Oil pump (the one that's leaking): 15115-P8A-A02
3. First o-ring for the oil galley pipe, it's a short metal tube that's immediately visible once you remove the oil pump in the top-most hole: 91308-P8A-A01
4. Second o-ring for the oil galley pipe: 91309-P8A-A01
5. Oil filter housing o-ring: 15825-P8A-A01
6. Oil filter housing solenoid #1 o-ring: 36172-P8A-A01
7. Oil filter housing solenoid #2 o-ring: 91319-PR3-003
The front crank seal part number is 91212-R70-A01 or 91212-5MR-A01. Right and left cam seal part numbers are both 91213-P8A-A01 or 91213-R70-A02. I would order a tube of Hondabond (08718-0004) though I'm sure Permatex Gray would be okay. A few cans of brake cleaner helps a ton. You will need to drop part of your exhaust to get the pan off so if you need studs/nuts, get those as well. My oil pump leak completely ruined my lower timing cover and crank sensor harness so I got a new ones. For your 06, it's 11810-RCA-A01 and 37501-RCA-A01, respectively. I would only replace them if they're damaged. For some advice... The pan on my Type-S cleared the subframe but on my 08 base TL, I needed to jack the motor up via the A/C compressor bracket an inch or so. When installing the pan, get the 17mm bellhousing bolts lightly snugged against the transmission first then tighten the 10mm bolts. The front crank seal gets pushed in until it's flush with the oil pump housing. Install the oil pump on the block first then install the crank seal. It's very difficult to do it the other way around. The two cam seals are driven in 0.5 - 1.5mm past the surface. I made a contraption with PVC components and some metric hardware bolts to drive them in. If it's too much of a hassle and they're not leaking, leave them alone. The bolts for the oil filter housing are only torqued to 16 lb-ft. Don't be a doorbell like me and strip out the threads due to overtightening. Doing the entire job over again and getting a Heli-Coil in there was a pain in the dingdong. If you can't get the crank bolt off, borrow a friend's 1/2 impact and use a Lisle 77080, works every time. I'm 99% sure that the part numbers I gave you are correct but I would confirm using the parts diagrams on the site I mentioned earlier. I think most of it's under Engine>Cylinder Block - Oil Pump and Engine>Camshaft - Timing Belt. There's a thread somewhere on this forum with a link to the service manual that will be of great help. If you can't find it, I'll send it to you. I've done this job a few times since on various Hondas/Acuras since then so if you have any questions, feel free to ask.
On a related note, common oil leaks on the back side of the motor are the two large o-rings for the cam plugs, the o-ring in the rear main seal cover plate, and the rear main seal itself.
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tylertran (08-16-2021)
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nothome17
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09-19-2015 03:30 PM