63K to many miles to switch to full synthetic ??
05-03-2011, 10:48 AM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
63K to many miles to switch to full synthetic ??
Not sure if this is the right forum to be posting this but I will be coming up on my first oil change since I bought the car. Just turned over 63k and want to know if that's to many miles to switch over to full synthetic? And if it's not what brand do you guys like.. Mobil 1?
05-03-2011, 11:27 AM
#2
7th Gear
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Delaware
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I had the same question, I am getting my 1st oil change this weekend and Mobile 1 (5w-20) has been recommended to me by a few mechanics and people that know cars well. So I will be getting : http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...l_1_5W-20.aspx
I was also informed that once you convert to a full synthetic that it is in your best interest to stay with that oil. not to deviate.
I was also informed that once you convert to a full synthetic that it is in your best interest to stay with that oil. not to deviate.
05-03-2011, 11:36 AM
#3
you should be fine with that mileage i think they don't consider it high mileage until around 80K + .....me when i have cars that have mileage on them and not sure what the other person was using ...i start off with the mixed synthetic/reg oil...for about 2 oil changes then go to synthetic...........that's just my
but you will be fine going straight to synthetic ....and you should stick with it until it is recommended to switch to high mileage oil
but you will be fine going straight to synthetic ....and you should stick with it until it is recommended to switch to high mileage oil
05-03-2011, 11:38 AM
#4
Race Director
Not sure if this is the right forum to be posting this but I will be coming up on my first oil change since I bought the car. Just turned over 63k and want to know if that's to many miles to switch over to full synthetic? And if it's not what brand do you guys like.. Mobil 1?
Not true. Again, search, discussed many times within Azine. and internet wide.
05-03-2011, 11:42 AM
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
you should be fine with that mileage i think they don't consider it high mileage until around 80K + .....me when i have cars that have mileage on them and not sure what the other person was using ...i start off with the mixed synthetic/reg oil...for about 2 oil changes then go to synthetic...........that's just my but you will be fine going straight to synthetic ....and you should stick with it until it is recommended to switch to high mileage oil
but you will be fine going straight to synthetic ....and you should stick with it until it is recommended to switch to high mileage oil
05-03-2011, 12:25 PM
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Ya I've def never heard anything bad about redline. Maybe ill go with that. Someone at work was saying the oil life of redline is a lot longer then other synthetics? Not sure if that's true or not. What do brand filter do you like?
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05-03-2011, 12:57 PM
#9
Just beware of "blends" because you don't really know how much synth in in there.
I usually use Mobil 1 with whatever filter it's on sale with at Advance Auto. Usually it's KN or Mobil 1. They are both the same but painted different colors.
05-03-2011, 01:30 PM
#10
not to sure of the weight eg.5w-20 ..............but the oil i was using in my 06 TL was castrol syntec ...but there are plenty of synthetic oils out there that are good ..............i would say if you have any places that specialize in fluid changes .....ask them what's best for your vehicle at the mileage you are at .....
05-03-2011, 02:03 PM
#11
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
not this shit again.
05-03-2011, 02:07 PM
#12
Filter is not really that important as far as you change it out when you do oil change every 3k
05-03-2011, 02:08 PM
#13
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
05-03-2011, 03:43 PM
#15
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Why the synthetic oil could be bad for high mileage motor?[/quote]
I've just heard not to run synthetic on higher mileage cars before
I've just heard not to run synthetic on higher mileage cars before
05-03-2011, 04:18 PM
#16
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Quote:
Originally Posted by fsttyms 11:9
Hey, You asked for it Kimchi #9.
Quote:
Originally Posted by buttholebilly
I hope your finger breaks through the toilet paper! fuck 4chan and fuck u Kimchi #9
Umm ..WTF? lol
Originally Posted by fsttyms 11:9
Hey, You asked for it Kimchi #9.
Quote:
Originally Posted by buttholebilly
I hope your finger breaks through the toilet paper! fuck 4chan and fuck u Kimchi #9
Umm ..WTF? lol
05-03-2011, 06:42 PM
#20
[x] FWCC [x]
05-04-2011, 10:52 AM
#21
Head a da Family
Join Date: Jul 2003
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It's NEVER a bad time to switch to synthetic. I use NAPA's own brand 5W-20 which is Valvoline SynPower with NAPA's name on it. Around $5 a quart last I checked.
I'm sure Mobil1 is good oil, but the FACT that ExxonMobil made over $10 BILLION in profits in the 1st quarter of this year alone while gouging us at the pump makes me think they don't need any of MY money, OR YOURS.
.
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I'm sure Mobil1 is good oil, but the FACT that ExxonMobil made over $10 BILLION in profits in the 1st quarter of this year alone while gouging us at the pump makes me think they don't need any of MY money, OR YOURS.
.
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Last edited by DMZ; 05-04-2011 at 10:54 AM.
05-04-2011, 12:25 PM
#22
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
It's NEVER a bad time to switch to synthetic. I use NAPA's own brand 5W-20 which is Valvoline SynPower with NAPA's name on it. Around $5 a quart last I checked.
I'm sure Mobil1 is good oil, but the FACT that ExxonMobil made over $10 BILLION in profits in the 1st quarter of this year alone while gouging us at the pump makes me think they don't need any of MY money, OR YOURS.
.
.
I'm sure Mobil1 is good oil, but the FACT that ExxonMobil made over $10 BILLION in profits in the 1st quarter of this year alone while gouging us at the pump makes me think they don't need any of MY money, OR YOURS.
.
.
05-04-2011, 01:00 PM
#23
Team Owner
I've just heard not to run synthetic on higher mileage cars before
[/quote]This is an old rumor that refuses to die. In the '70s when a synthetic was first offered as a motor oil, it did not play well with the seals and other oils. These days you could go 200,000 miles then switch or you could rotate every other oil change doing a synthetic and it wouldn't hurt a thing.
The one exception is if you have a layer of crap as the only thing keeping oil from getting past some of the seals. It's very unlikely syn will cause a leak but it does clean better than dino.
05-04-2011, 01:05 PM
#24
Team Owner
There are exceptions to everything I mentioned but that's generally the advantages of a synthetic.
05-04-2011, 11:11 PM
#25
Senior Moderator
IHC is correct. Mobil 1 and all other modern synthetics are completely compatible with dino (regular) oil. It doesn't matter how many miles you have. In fact, the high detergent abilities of Mobil 1 will most likely clean your engine up.
I run it about once a year in my Jeep just to keep things clean... The Jeep is soon going to be hitting 180,000 miles. No oil consumption. No oil leaks.
Mobil 1 Euro formula is the only oil approved for my Mercedes and since it is still under warranty, I don't deviate. It takes 9 quarts!!
I run it about once a year in my Jeep just to keep things clean... The Jeep is soon going to be hitting 180,000 miles. No oil consumption. No oil leaks.
Mobil 1 Euro formula is the only oil approved for my Mercedes and since it is still under warranty, I don't deviate. It takes 9 quarts!!
05-05-2011, 11:58 AM
#26
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Think I'm just going to spend the money and go with Redline
05-05-2011, 12:24 PM
#27
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
5w30
05-05-2011, 12:36 PM
#28
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
05-05-2011, 12:46 PM
#29
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
You'll be fine with either. A little higher weight, generally gives you a little added wear protection and better sealing, especially with the more miles / commute time you put on it. 20wt will probably give you a little better fuel efficiency.
05-05-2011, 12:53 PM
#30
Team Owner
5w-20 is only to satisfy CAFE requirements. The manufacturer has to recommend it in the manual, in publications, and on the oil fill cap. It's literally required whether they want to or not. I've read the actual white paper.
5w-30 was the recommended oil in the J32 before '04 and the new standards. The engine has not been changed internally. MPG increase from a 5w-20 is barely measurable if you do mostly short trips and the oil never gets up to full temp. Mileage difference is not measurable if you drive the car normally. People have gone from a 5w-20 to a 40wt and not noticed a difference. I've gone from a 0w-20 to a straight 30wt and not noticed a difference except for one thing. When it hits VTEC I swear it feels a little stronger. Maybe it's due to better ring seal, less friction, or it could be my imagination, I don't know.
5w-20 will work fine. 5w-30 will protect better. No reason to run the 5w-20 unless you live in a very cold area or you do only very short trips.
5w-30 was the recommended oil in the J32 before '04 and the new standards. The engine has not been changed internally. MPG increase from a 5w-20 is barely measurable if you do mostly short trips and the oil never gets up to full temp. Mileage difference is not measurable if you drive the car normally. People have gone from a 5w-20 to a 40wt and not noticed a difference. I've gone from a 0w-20 to a straight 30wt and not noticed a difference except for one thing. When it hits VTEC I swear it feels a little stronger. Maybe it's due to better ring seal, less friction, or it could be my imagination, I don't know.
5w-20 will work fine. 5w-30 will protect better. No reason to run the 5w-20 unless you live in a very cold area or you do only very short trips.
05-05-2011, 01:04 PM
#31
Raconteur and Provocateur
Haven't switched over my TL yet, but will at next oil change. FWIW, I switched to full synthetic in my Legend at 166K miles and have the following observations:
(1) I used a "stop leak/seal conditioner" (Bardahl's is one) and ran it for 300+ miles before the change. The concept is to swell the valveseals with the conditioner as you generally get a bit more "blow by" with full synthetic vs dino at the same weight. It really cut down on a tiny amount of after long idle blue smoke.
(2) My oil usage went down when I switched to full synthetic and has stayed down (now at 250K miles) ever since.
(3) I run Amsoil 5W-30 in the Legend, Amsoil 0W-20 in my MDX, and plan to use 5W-20 Amsoil full synthetic in the TL. Oh, and I use Wix filters in all of them now.
YMMV!
(1) I used a "stop leak/seal conditioner" (Bardahl's is one) and ran it for 300+ miles before the change. The concept is to swell the valveseals with the conditioner as you generally get a bit more "blow by" with full synthetic vs dino at the same weight. It really cut down on a tiny amount of after long idle blue smoke.
(2) My oil usage went down when I switched to full synthetic and has stayed down (now at 250K miles) ever since.
(3) I run Amsoil 5W-30 in the Legend, Amsoil 0W-20 in my MDX, and plan to use 5W-20 Amsoil full synthetic in the TL. Oh, and I use Wix filters in all of them now.
YMMV!
05-05-2011, 01:22 PM
#32
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
5w-20 is only to satisfy CAFE requirements. The manufacturer has to recommend it in the manual, in publications, and on the oil fill cap. It's literally required whether they want to or not. I've read the actual white paper.
5w-30 was the recommended oil in the J32 before '04 and the new standards. The engine has not been changed internally. MPG increase from a 5w-20 is barely measurable if you do mostly short trips and the oil never gets up to full temp. Mileage difference is not measurable if you drive the car normally. People have gone from a 5w-20 to a 40wt and not noticed a difference. I've gone from a 0w-20 to a straight 30wt and not noticed a difference except for one thing. When it hits VTEC I swear it feels a little stronger. Maybe it's due to better ring seal, less friction, or it could be my imagination, I don't know.
5w-20 will work fine. 5w-30 will protect better. No reason to run the 5w-20 unless you live in a very cold area or you do only very short trips.
5w-30 was the recommended oil in the J32 before '04 and the new standards. The engine has not been changed internally. MPG increase from a 5w-20 is barely measurable if you do mostly short trips and the oil never gets up to full temp. Mileage difference is not measurable if you drive the car normally. People have gone from a 5w-20 to a 40wt and not noticed a difference. I've gone from a 0w-20 to a straight 30wt and not noticed a difference except for one thing. When it hits VTEC I swear it feels a little stronger. Maybe it's due to better ring seal, less friction, or it could be my imagination, I don't know.
5w-20 will work fine. 5w-30 will protect better. No reason to run the 5w-20 unless you live in a very cold area or you do only very short trips.
5w-30 it is then! My local auto parts store sayed around 10 bucks a quart x 5 quarts and a filter your looking at 60 bucks,That's roughly what the dealership charges for a change with conventional oil
05-05-2011, 01:25 PM
#33
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Oil filters is a whole different thread, my suggestion and probably IHC's, Royal Purple. I usually spend ~$50 on oil & filter. My friends don't understand why I pay more than Jiffy Lube. 
05-05-2011, 01:28 PM
#34
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
05-05-2011, 01:30 PM
#35
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
We're talking filters here and not oil. I don't believe redline makes an oil filter. Do the research.. it's been discussed here many times.
05-05-2011, 01:32 PM
#36
Team Owner
I don't think Redline makes a filter. Royal Purple filters are one of the only truly synthetic filter medias. Better flow AND better filtration along with a wire mesh reinforced medial, metal end caps, and a silicone adbv (which works well) and last, a slightly thicker shell which isn't really of benefit to a stock TL.
The only other that compares is the Amsoil EAO and there were some reports of issues with loading at extended intervals. I liked them but the adbv did not work and it took an extra second or so for the oil pressure light to go out after sitting over night.
The only other that compares is the Amsoil EAO and there were some reports of issues with loading at extended intervals. I liked them but the adbv did not work and it took an extra second or so for the oil pressure light to go out after sitting over night.
05-05-2011, 01:33 PM
#37
Team Owner
05-05-2011, 01:34 PM
#38
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
I'm too lazy to type details anymore.. 
05-05-2011, 01:35 PM
#39
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
05-05-2011, 01:51 PM
#40
I don't think Redline makes a filter. Royal Purple filters are one of the only truly synthetic filter medias. Better flow AND better filtration along with a wire mesh reinforced medial, metal end caps, and a silicone adbv (which works well) and last, a slightly thicker shell which isn't really of benefit to a stock TL.
The only other that compares is the Amsoil EAO and there were some reports of issues with loading at extended intervals. I liked them but the adbv did not work and it took an extra second or so for the oil pressure light to go out after sitting over night.
The only other that compares is the Amsoil EAO and there were some reports of issues with loading at extended intervals. I liked them but the adbv did not work and it took an extra second or so for the oil pressure light to go out after sitting over night.
But I do spend extra $ on a bottle of Lucas oil stabalizer for about $11.. worth it? idk.. there're mix feelings on it!
