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3rd Gear top speed?????

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Old 07-07-2012, 06:44 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by bouncer07
Tell me how that can be done? Answer: over-rev. How? Timing chain jumped which results in bent valves. Many K20's and J32's I've pushed at the dyno and road racing, never once I floated the valves. So how can you go 7400 rpm when rev limiter stopped before that? Only cause is driver's error.

I've dyno'd many cars hitting rev limiters. Is your car auto or manual?
if you have a manual and miss shift to a lower a gear then BAM baby J series engine is toast... It's not supposed to be possible with the auto car as the ECM locks out out of gears that result in over-rev. but if you are going faster than 79mph and the trans craps dropping you into 2nd gear, your engine is toast

There are plenty of post here were TL members have cars that have recorded over - rev and Acura immediately will not touch them for warranty work and they either have to swap motors or spend big $$$ to get it fixed.

Honda did an amazing job when they first made the J32a2 (Type S motor) getting awesome reliability and performance out of it at the time but they did not by any means overbuild the engine......
Old 07-07-2012, 12:08 PM
  #42  
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^Typically if you do that, your clutch disc will explode before you even let the pedal out. The most common case of this happening is when people try to drag race or get over-aggressive running up through the gears. They usually miss shift at full throttle from the top of 3rd and accidentally hit 2nd gear instead of 4th. What happens is as you force the lever into second, the main-shaft & clutch disc are accelerated by the synchro's up to crazy rpms they are not designed for. The result is the organic friction material is instantly ripped apart by the extreme centripetal acceleration. Then when you drop the clutch pedal, it all goes to hell. The result is the engine gets over-reved, but not as bad as you think (since the clutch disc is missing). This happened to my best friends STi when he let his brother take it for a drive.

It's called "the money shift". lol
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Old 07-07-2012, 12:17 PM
  #43  
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That happened to my friends mustang. It still over revved but not as bad as it should have given the speed and gear ratio. So are you saying the friction material is designed to give when the centrifugal force is greater than what's possible with the revlimit?
Old 07-07-2012, 01:05 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by 94eg!
^Typically if you do that, your clutch disc will explode before you even let the pedal out. The most common case of this happening is when people try to drag race or get over-aggressive running up through the gears. They usually miss shift at full throttle from the top of 3rd and accidentally hit 2nd gear instead of 4th. What happens is as you force the lever into second, the main-shaft & clutch disc are accelerated by the synchro's up to crazy rpms they are not designed for. The result is the organic friction material is instantly ripped apart by the extreme centripetal acceleration. Then when you drop the clutch pedal, it all goes to hell. The result is the engine gets over-reved, but not as bad as you think (since the clutch disc is missing). This happened to my best friends STi when he let his brother take it for a drive.

It's called "the money shift". lol
sorry doing this here at work and I left out the part of being near or at the rpm range under load
Old 07-07-2012, 06:07 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by I hate cars
That happened to my friends mustang. It still over revved but not as bad as it should have given the speed and gear ratio. So are you saying the friction material is designed to give when the centrifugal force is greater than what's possible with the revlimit?
I don't know if it's "designed" to do that. But it's definitely what happens under those circumstances. If you went from 7000rpm in 3rd gear into second, the clutch disc & main-shaft would be instantly spun up to 10,300rpm. Therefore we can deduce the burst speed of an organic disc is somewhere between those two points.
Old 07-07-2012, 06:57 PM
  #46  
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Thank you everyone who does their best to destroy their clutch/transmission/engine/all-the-above. Our weak economy needs every boost it can get!
Old 07-08-2012, 01:03 AM
  #47  
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Off topic of the OP's question but goes with the current convo lol...I had a 95 saturn sc2 5 sp that was bone stock with a 70 wet shot. I was a saturn tech and had a bucket of saturn pistons and didn't mind making them go boom. My nitrous set up was set to spray on WOT. Well I was at the strip, and kept the accelerator to the floor while poweshifting it and ooops, missed a gear and ended up going down one. So the tach wrapped up to over 8 (6750 redline of I remember correctly) the PCM shut off fuel to try to cut rpm's and nitrous was spraying. Somehow it didn't go pop then, I shut it down and coasted to the return lane to find it didn't puke the bottom end, blow a piston, or tag valves. Must have been saturn magic LOL jk.
Old 07-08-2012, 01:56 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Nova_brad
Off topic of the OP's question but goes with the current convo lol...I had a 95 saturn sc2 5 sp that was bone stock with a 70 wet shot. I was a saturn tech and had a bucket of saturn pistons and didn't mind making them go boom. My nitrous set up was set to spray on WOT. Well I was at the strip, and kept the accelerator to the floor while poweshifting it and ooops, missed a gear and ended up going down one. So the tach wrapped up to over 8 (6750 redline of I remember correctly) the PCM shut off fuel to try to cut rpm's and nitrous was spraying. Somehow it didn't go pop then, I shut it down and coasted to the return lane to find it didn't puke the bottom end, blow a piston, or tag valves. Must have been saturn magic LOL jk.
That's very possible on the engine front. The rev-limit on your Saturn would have to work by cutting spark or the fuel from the wet shot would continue to let it run and the rev-limiter would be ineffective. As for the clutch, I've seen both. I've seen them eat the clutch and I've seen my friend's M3 wrap around way past 9k and the clutch was in tact. The valves weren't so happy.
Old 07-08-2012, 08:29 AM
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This one is way off topic, for those not interested in saturns and some of my hot rodder past please don't waste your time reading lol.
The saturn (s-series) rev limiter worked by turning off fuel injectors. The fuel for the wet shot was tapped into the schrader valve before the injectors so yes it still got fuel but that solenoid and nozzle didn't grow in size or flow rate with rpm's so think of how little fuel that is at 8 or 9,000 with all fuel injectors cut off. So I'm still going with saturn magic on that instance.
My saturn magic ran out with a 100 shot. That motor held up to a 100 shot for about 15 total nitrous seconds but those were some fast seconds (for a saturn, nothing like your GN, IHC haha). With a 100 shot, WOT in third would smoke the tires of you roll in from hwy speed run.
But like I said, I had a bucket of pistons (and all the free time I could imagine with no fiancé yet lol) so I didn't mind melting and cracking my share.
After several booms all relatively close together, I could push the car into the shop and start working and 45 minutes from the push I'd have a piston out in my hand. My co workers Said I must have velcrod the engine together LOL.
I would normally consume 1 to 2 bottles of 10lb nitrous a week. After a while it got kinda pricey and decided I could spend the same money and finance a c5 vette, so no more nitrous lol. I actually ended up with a mr2 turbo instead.
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