Should I dilute it before putting it into the engine? This guy with a Camry I know highly recommended I do.

 

Dilute the oil? What?
And I heard RP's oil is considerably thin.

I've been using Mobil1 if I can't get Enos, Motul or Amsoil.

 

You dilute the coolant, why not the engine oil?

Like, when it calls for 5w30 that means 5 parts oil and 30 parts water (that's what the little "w" means, dummies).

There are some cars that run 0w20 which is basically just water with only a dash of oil. I've been skipping the oil portion entirely and just running water in my truck. It runs great in-between engine replacements.

 

It's 5w 30 you doofus.... Which reads 5 water 30 ... You done funked up cul0

 

It's a fucking Nissan.. it'll run on dog shit.

 

I'm not sure what the price point is up there.. but hard to beat (off) M1EP

 

I used M1 almost always...whenever there's a crazy $40 off of 100...I'll fill up the cart with oil filters for the various vehicles and when it's time for an oil change, bam...stop by walmart and pay $23 for a jug of it. Last time the EP was priced the same as regular M1 Synthetic.

 

I see Monday snuck up again. Not cool Monday, not cool. Oh well, better get sucking.

 

I been sucking...


Happy Monday!!!

 

M1 is about the best filter next to OEM, or atleast on Honda's....

Too bad M1 Synthetic only last 3K miles in my RDX, dang, I'm already at 20%, almost 15, and it will start alerting me constantly... I just had it done July 6, just dang!!! I do have dealer coupons good trough September!!!

How long does M1 last in your 3gens, or anything without a turbo?

Oh, Walmart is best served as a midnight adventure (empty store)!!!

 

just not from 1140 to 1205, that's when they shut down the registers to count the money.

oil in the 3G lasts 5K miles with synthetic but that's a self imposed rule, I never go by the MID.

 

:thief:

 

Never had an issue like that... In LA, they go to self check, but in MS, they just use the regular registers... Their distribution center is in the same town as the store in MS, that place is huge!!!

I've been pretty bad with my old Kia, running 7-9K between changes on Castrol SynBlend, but in the RDX, I tell myself, "No, hell no, not blowing the turbo"!!!

I use the MID because it's range is pretty appropriate, and if I did it any sooner, I'd be broke!!! 6x70=420, on oil alone!!!

 

Morning fellas. Hope you all had a good weekend? I see Blue got sold J?

Had min-me 2's birthday yesterday after it got rained off last week. Good time, a lot of woodworking and stuff for me since we were having a Cowboy party. built this massive panelled wall for decorations and it was too big so i had to break it down, move inside and rebuild it! lol

All in all a good weekend. but wife and I have agreed that 2 seperate birthday parties within 3 or 4 weeks is no bueno so joint parties or family trips from now on.....

 

Re: redline, amsoil... https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...l-5w30-857082/

 

fo sho yo

 

I also made some killer pulled pork and a great spicy corn chip dip.....storing those recipes away for football season for sure!

 

TSX is such a shit board.. that ceb guy is a real deep throater of toddler dicks.

1. Why the fuck would anyone be discussing oil for the TSX. How about water, sand, and a qt of jizz.
2. Redline and other "boutique" oils run higher ZDDP which is why they aren't API certified. The fucking baddest engines in the world run these oils. But ohhh... it's not good enough for my 4 banger piece of shit because it's not API certified. The only reason not to run a higher viscosity is you might lose 2 hp from that 20 hp plant. I love how those cocksuckers are like, what about the warranty!!
3. The reason Acura recommends a 20wt is for fuel efficiency and meet CAFE requirements. 30 wt will offer higher wear protection. But again.. it's a fucking 4 banger. Most TSX cucks won't own the car for more than 150k miles.
4. Don't ever post another thread from TSX, or any oil/filter thread from any other board, or I'll run a cactus up your ass the size of ladiboi's anus.

And I'm not on Redline, Amsoil, or RP's dick. I mostly run M1EP.. because $$. 5qts of M1EP and filter usually runs me $25-30.

 

We know you like to pull your pork, chili dip, and flap your pigskin. No need to share.

 

How many are in a FFL this year and how much is on the line??

 

I told my usual group that we should bet pinks.. they thought I meant car titles.

 

I'd like to follow the owner's manual. It says ester based oil is recommended. Not needed, but recommended.

I've read multiple theories as to why (everyone claiming to be an expert, but I dunno) that the ester base results in slightly cooler oil temps, or that it reduces the sound of the VVEL. Guys say the engine sounds like a diesel without the ester base again, not sure if true, but all I know is the car purrs right now and I'd like to keep it that way

 

He better be talking about American football and not that European wanker football

 

Who's Esther and why do you need her oil

 

oh, you know

 

Maybe it's time to start consider replacing that 17 year old car...

https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...riving-949083/

 

i do, i just want to hear you say it

 

Honestly.. I love that Nissan recommends a group V oil, but like I said a group IV with high PAO like M1EP will treat you very well. I run a quasi-long OCI, 7-8k miles. The oil will probably last longer with a good engine filter and a mid filter change between. But I can attest after the valve adjustment I did on the X, that it's a damn good oil.

I don't think a group V oil will serve you that much more for your uses than a good group IV oil unless you're regularly tracking her.
That being said.. an extra couple hundred bucks a year isn't that big of a deal.. unless you're a cheap mofo like me.

 

2G TL.. poor fucker is going to face bigger issues than the headlights.

 

Nothing wrong with owning an old car.

 

I think I will try the Mobil 1 0w40. It goes on sale quite often. Regular price is $51 for 5 litres () but it's on sale now for $31. (talk about markup :rolleyes)

 

Reported
I'm not one to argue about oil. I'll leave that to the cucks on the internets.

 

whoa whoa whoa.. M1..
M1EP

 

In the past, I would've 100% agreed with you. I had plenty of 15-20 year old cars. But that was a different time, with simpler cars.

Now there's so much electrical crap to deal with. Anything can be fixed with enough desire, but that's where I start backing out.

 

Okay.. infant dicks. #magnifyingglass

 

Maj, the funny thing is- I have a sneaking suspicion that if I took the car to the dealership for an oil change, they would not be putting the group V oil in. Probably be the same stuff every other car gets, from the generic 55 gal drum in the corner

 

Last oil change I got at a Nissan dealer they used Pennzoil, probably from the 55gal drum of lube they got off Amazon.

 

all I saw was a post where Adam posted "V" this and "V" that...
and I thought, odd that he keeps following with the word "oil".

Time to get a V

For serious, the owner's manual on the Caddy says to put trash in the engine, like Back to the Future II.
It'll still run like a champ!

Murrica!

 

With the right platform, shouldn't be an issue. New platforms, gimmicky transmissions / engines.. I'd stay away..
Even infotainment systems are usually by big mfg groups (LG), which are easy to source.
There's definitely more tech and areas for failure, but it should be easier to source these pieces since they are used in many vehicles (ferrari, jeep/chrysler comes to mind)
I'm a lot more analog than digital even though my work is leading edge tech. As long as I can put a wrench on it, and get parts for cheap, that's fine with me.

 

There's no effing way the Nissan dealership carries group V oil.. no way. Even though they say use group V oil. Funny thing is..

R35 GT-R OEM oil cap