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Damn. Not good. Burn smell means internal temp too high. Don't mess with trannys, i would say take control of the situation now and back yourself up. Document everything, leaks, smell, vacuum hose left to dry out, then send the dealer a formal notice of legal action. Give them 2 weeks to fix all problems. If not, sue them for the negligence, damages for the new transmission that has been compromised, and add anything you can, time off work, towing costs, moral fear for driving a car that can give up any day, plus compensation and force them to cover all related repair costs within 12 months at another dealer. I am in a similar situation and I'm suing for 3000$ more than what i paid for rebuild...but in my case it was not the dealership that rebuilt.
Originally Posted by polish_pat
The battery will never fully charge with a 20km ride, not even close, unless you raced your car the entire way. To charge a battery from almost empty to full, it would take a good 12 hours at 2a 12v. Using a slow charging makes sure you don't overwork the cells or create gas bubbles in the battery. When driving normally, the alternator produces enough power to supply the car and depending on time of day and accessories used (headlights on, music playing, defrost on) it might charge the battery, or not at all. Generally speaking, it would take a 30-40 minute drive at between 3500-4500rpm to fully charge the battery (if nothing else is on). So your 20K drive at between 1500 and 2000 rpm gave the battery just enough juice to start up the car 2 or 3 times. I strongly suggest you to buy a charger, they run for about 30$ and can be life saving. Plus, the proper way to charge is always slow and steady
Originally Posted by polish_pat
OMG this is giving me a flashback.......i too went on a xmas vacation for 3 weeks, just before i left, i wanted to put the car in the garage, i didnt use the car much in the previous weeks so the battery was almost dead, i tried to start the car ( it was -30 celcius that morning) but after a couple of seconds it went completely dead. I ended up pushing the car in the garage thinking i'd come back and just charge the battery and i'd be fine. Well, i wasn't. I came back and charged it and when i turned the key, everything lit up but there was no starter sound. The relay was clicking, so i ended up hitting the starter with a hammer, it started. the next day, it was dead again. I hit it again, nothing, i took a rubber mallet and put the car on a ramp and hit it from under while my gf was starting it, but nothing.
Had to tow it, it was the starter. Ended up costing me about 450$, 300$ for the part, 6 month warranty, it was refurb and 150$ for about 2 hours of work.
I've had this car for about 2 years, i did see a difference in the past months in the time the starter took to do its job and the intensity with which it did it, now with my new starter, -30 or not, it start in 1.5 seconds...there is a major difference with a good and an aging starter. So my guess it, your starter will fail soon enough
Originally Posted by polish_pat
Yesterday I did some re-wiring work for my GROM audio unit. I had a bunch of cables stuffed in the arm wrest box and others in the compartment where the gear select cigarette lighter is. I also remembered my grom unit can have 3 USB ports, one on the unit itself, and 2 others using the EXT1 and EXT2, which can be used to add a 3.5mm jack, USB female or BT module.
I then thought of your thread and figured, instead of a complicated wire re-routing, hassle of going all the way to the door, you have all the space you need within a 1 foot area, and it happens to be much more convenient to have a USB port there than in the door...the CENTER CONSOLE.
So I took out the cup holder and the part where the seat heater switches are with the gear selector and both compartments and saw that there is so much space that can be utilized to pass cables, and put other modules or power sources.
I'm really bummed out I didn't take pictures of the process, it would have been such a cool DIY project. But basically, I re-routed the cigarette port under armrest, connected a 12V to 110V converter which I placed in the empty space between the gear selector and wiring harness of the gear position switch, this places it right under the 2 compartments, also makes it easy to access just by pulling on the side panel between passenger seat and glove box. I also hid my GROM box under the cup holder and passed the cables from EXT1 and EXT2 to the same place as the 12V to 120V converter.
So now that my infrastructure for power is there, I need to think how am I going to cut the side panel. As of now, I have 5 USB power sources in the car, 2 are used permanently and 2 are available to plug anything and one is a micro usb cable that powers my wireless charger or phone directly.
I made a small diagram that shows how i wired everything. As mentionned, previously all wiring was hidden under cup holder and armrest but It was a hassle to access in case I needed something, like flash a new firmware on my GROM unit.
Here are the color codes:
Red is the remapped cigarette plug with the 12V to 110V. The output is a regular 3 pin power source that can power a mini fridge, recharge laptop, power tire compressor, and so on.
Yellow box next to handbrake is my 3 port grom unit and on top my wireless charger, and in between a micro USB cable. It has 1 fixed USB port and 2 external ports that look like those old PS2 ports that old mice and keyboards used, technically, you can add 4 USB ports by using a double USB Y cable per port, but in this case, I have 2 Y cables that have one female USB and one 3.5mm audio jack. The fixed USB port is used to charge my phone, it can output about 1100mah in perfect conditions, but it fluctuates too much in amperage depending on if music is played or not, the quality of the song (bitrate), they all influence the output, usually, I get between 500mah and 700mah, which is perfect to power my wireless charger
On EXT1 in dark blue, my audio jack connects to my bluetooth receiver that is in light blue, from that, I stream my music, make and receive calls, the source mode for that is "iPod". It also has a female USB port that currently sits in the compartment where my main cigarette charger is.
On EXT2 in orange, the jack is an AUX port where you can plug in any other device that outputs sound through 3.5mm. That also has a USB port that for now has no use.
Both EXT USB ports female are the ports i want to integrate somewhere in the center console, i want to cut and precisely fitthe female ports so we can plug in additional usb cables to charge other phones, tablets, external GPS units, and so on. I also want to find a way to cut out in the side passenger pannel so the power converter is available to power bigger electronics.
I'm still looking for solutions to make this job as professional looking as possible. If anybody has any suggestions, please feel free to share.
I have a future project in mind also, i want to take away that ugly phone holder that blocks half of my screen and that I modded into a wireless charger (just a proof on concept/prototype), and integrate the wireless charger in the cupholder directly a bit like the image below. The phone would lie there and since it would charge wirelessly, it could be easily picked up.
Originally Posted by polish_pat
Hey,
My front right speaker is blown and its really annoying me. I wanted to know, that connector that is specific to the ALS speakers, can i just cut it off and attach to new 6.5" speaker plug and play or do I need to do something special?
For a whole Canadian dollar I can see the house owner names, details, mortgage information and others.
With a bit of elbow grease the owners of all the cars in the parking.
For a whole Canadian dollar I can see the house owner names, details, mortgage information and others.
With a bit of elbow grease the owners of all the cars in the parking.
Obvious from the pics too. Mini in the driveway (mom), Jetta (kid), Audi Q5 (dad).
Then later Mini (mom), TL (kid), Q5 for sale (dad), new Merc (dad new car!)
10-15-2015, 12:43 PM
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