moda_way

If you have length x width x thickness, the TL key is thicker, longer, but not as wide. The trick will be to mill it so that the tumblers fall correctly since cutting the same profile will make the tumblers fall deeper.

carpecervisi

I tried the mold method and it didn't work. Now granted, I've never done it before, but I wasn't able to figure out the best method for making sure the plastic part was perfectly usable.

The issue is that there are a ton of little details in the plastic part that dictate the stops of the button, the spring guide, the axial rotation (I think that's the right term), etc.

I ended up making the mold in a small plastic cup with the blank aligned vertically, with the plastic part down and the metal key blank about 50% covered. I had hoped this would allow me to put my machinable blank into the resin before it hardened yet retain the proper depth and alignment necessary.

In theory that was fine, but the reality was that the mold wasn't good. Maybe someone with more molding experience could shine some light on the best way to do this. Lord knows, I've got plenty of material left I can play with. I just cannot visualize a better way.

TIA.
-chad

FLBusa

Exactly. As long as there's enough width to make the 90* stop at the end of the key form then there'll be no problem.

sequoia

just curious, and I don't have time to read 13 pages, so I apologize if this has been covered already, but can you just replace the ingition keyhole in the steering column to the 07 so you can use the 07 key without such drastic modifications?

*blank stare*

lembowski

iTrader: (1)

I was looking at it, and I do not think there will be enough width to make the 90* on both sides of the blade.

Black_05_TL_6SP

Sure, if you wish to spend the money on it. Its going to run quite a bit more then what we are trying to do. Also, the drivers door would need to be modified in case you ever needed to use that key in the door as well. or you could just carry the extra key.

Black_05_TL_6SP

The way we will be doing this is with a silca material. Will clay in the areas I don't want molded( the transponder hole) and create a two peice mold. That way, you place the key in the mold, and then fill with the resin. then peel the mold off. You now have a new key!! Not all that easy, but something along that line.

FLBusa

Hard to tell from a blurry picture (no offense intended). If you have a dial caliper or micrometer you can measure each and be 100% sure. Machining may not be an option if there's not enough material to make a step.

lembowski

iTrader: (1)

Sorry I work for an Insurance Brokerage.............so no micrometers around here

but with my nifty ruler, it looks alittle less than a cm

FLBusa

Well... amid a few doubts and no real key in hand I'm still going to machine up a prototype. So far I have a CAD model ready to go and hopefully will have something completed by this weekend.

Prototype Blank




Prototype blank after machining

FLBusa

Yeah... a ruler (no matter how nifty) just isn't the right tool.

DiveforTL-s

FLBusa---
Now, can you just buy the key blanks seprate from the rest of the remote? If so, it may be cheaper all around (or at least for you) to have you only buy the blank and have us buy the rest. It would limit your libality as far as remote breakage and save on shipping.

DiveforTL-s

What if it's a calbrated ruler?

lembowski

iTrader: (1)

I'd be suprised if the wooden ruler on my desk is calibrated

moda_way

FYI, I too have successfully disassembled and reassembled the TL key. I've also removed the immobilizer chip and programmed the transmitter to work with my TSX. Next thing to do is figure out how the hell I'm gonna get a key epoxied in there. This key mod is 2x as difficult as the USDM Accord mod. It is not for the faint of heart. Acura/Honda did a good job making the immobilizer chip nearly impossible to get out, but I was able to get it out.

So far, I'm 50% the way there.

Rocket_man

Not a molding expert either, but appearently dental molding (alginate) takes detailed impressions and is often used where detail is needed. You may be able to pick up someting similar at a hobby shop... or of course.. e-bay

http://stores.ebay.com/Orthodealer_I...QQftidZ2QQtZkm

BG74

I'm pretty much at the same stage you are. I hacksawed horizontally through the plastic part that holds the blank and pulled the immobilizer out that way. Following JKMotorsport's advice, I then cut and dremeled my existing key to fit in the recess. The tiny screws holding the flip assembly in are all but impossible to remove. I had to drill out 2 of them.

FYI, programming the transmitter took about 20 seconds for my '05 TL. It works perfectly.

I'm just waiting for the JB Weld to dry overnight, and I'm going to try to put it all back together in the morning.

tidus888

hey guys.. do u think is it actually possible to do a spot weld? or too small?

subinf

That's what I was considering. I haven't paid too much attention to the pics yet to determine whether its possible or not. When I'm not so lazy I'll but a key and see if it works or looks feasible.

BG74

It's probably possible, but to even get the '07 blank out, you HAVE to cut through the plastic housing it is set in. I just did it this morning, and there is certainly no other way it's going to come out. The blank even has 4-5 small holes in its head that are filled with the cast plastic of the housing so it cannot be removed.

That's where the weakness lies, not in the key itself...in that plastic housing. The dremel'ed '05 key is just as strong as the '07 blank, as they are both a solid piece of metal. If you pulled out the '07 blank in order to weld it, you might as well just stick your modified (and stonger) '04-'06 blank in there.

subinf

^ - good to know. Hopefully when I actually get around to doing this there will be someone who has a fully functional key

BG74

Hopefully me by this time tomorrow

BG74

From the JB Weld website:

Q: Is there anything that J-B Weld WON'T bond to?
A: J-B Weld will not adhere to, or bond well to:

Any flexible rubber surface
Leather
Vinyl
Canvass
Polypropylene plastic
Polyethylene plastic

PLEASE tell me that the last two aren't what the damn transmitter is made from....

carpecervisi

I think several of us have already done the JB Weld method at least. Mine works fine, but I had to butcher my valet key to do it. There is definitely a lot of finesse work that needs to be done after the epoxying of the plastic back together to ensure you get the proper fit onto the spindle. You also have to make sure that you are careful with the application of JB because there are specific cutouts that have to be correct to make the "switchblade" part work properly.

I'm about 80% pleased with mine, mainly due to two reasons. Since the 05 blank is thinner than the 07 blank, it was all but impossible to make the piece to spec after you hacksaw the thing apart. The other thing with mine is that I must have messed up one of the stops a bit because my key opens too far, like 10* or so.

Anyway, regarding the width of the blanks:
07: 0.353"
05: 0.383"

I have no idea what the tolerances of the switch is, but hopefully this will still work out.

-chad

cM3go

although more expensive, has anyone thought of replacing the lock cylinder?

lembowski

iTrader: (1)

Haven't thought about it really, this isn't a mod that I would want to spend alot of $ on. Since I'm really not sure if the key can be milled as of now, I'm looking forward to Black_05_TL_6SP molds, so I can just add my own precut blade to it. Hopefully he can get his key pretty soon to make the molds. I thik that is everyones best option.

But I'm still thinking of a way to cleanly chop the stock blade out. There has to be some type of blade/machine that can precisely cut it

BG74

Count me out...I butchered the thing so badly that I can't get it to flip at all. $60 down the drain. Hopefully someone will come up with a better solution.

ajocnvery

I’m sorry if this is a stupid question, but did anyone take both keys to a locksmith and ask him to cut the blank so it matches your original key? Just a question that I haven’t seen.

tidus888

heres my plan... i got a copy of my 06 key (without imobi for $4) tried the switches.. it works..

planning to cut the key on an angle... then cut the orginal 07 key and match the angle... then spot weld the two together and get the dealer to program the imobi for $40... i think that should work... and plus.. welding the two pieces of metal together might look ok too... what do u guys thing?

ThaShef

I wonder if something like this is possible..

Using a CAD program, design the plastic piece that holds the 07 blank to the transmitter, and then using CNC machines just mill that out of some AL so its light weight and then we can just attach that to a 05 vallet key and then you should be able to insert that into 07 transmitter. I think this will be solid and should never break off.
Thoughts?

pb1300

So I got the key in today, and Im waiting to see some of the responses on here. I was thinking about just cutting my o5 tl valet key, and welding it to the new one, but Im going to wait and see what everyone decides on doing.

pb1300

Can you cut the 05 key and weld it on to the 07 switchblade? I keep seeing that there is a sensor or something inside the key that has to come out. It looks real confusing and I just thought a simple weld would do the trick.

TL1999

got my key today...

triggle

I wonder if the imobilizer chip would work surrounded by aluminum as opposed to plastic.

One other thing about molding or CNC. The 05 keyblank is thinner than the 07 so there might be too much play in the joint. You'd need to CNC/mold the hub a wee bit thicker than the 07's to compensate.

ThaShef

Yup..not sure if immobilzer chip would work if there is that much metal there.

Black_05_TL_6SP

I did ask the dealer about this. It runs $500 for the four locks for the car. But you still have to install them.

x420actionx

Four locks? what do you mean? I thought the question also pertained to just changing the whole ignition, to the new 07' ignition, so that it could just use the new key. Is this possible? How expensive is this really? If what you say is true then its probably going to be on top of the $500 dollars...oh boy

lembowski

iTrader: (1)

Well you have to change the other locks if you wan to use your key on the other locks in the car

4 locks.........

Drivers Door
Ignition
Glove Box
Ski Shoot??

x420actionx

Hmm I guess so, but to cut down the costs I supppose I would just change the driver and ignition locks, since I never use the one for the glove or the ski shoot (if there is one)
This is better if you have a few hundred to spare, plus its a sure thing, not something that may or may not work...

TL1999

anyone has any sucess of removing the 3 screws that is holding the key in the key fob? I am having a hard time remove it...any idea will be helpful, thanks.