2007 TL Switchblade Key
#361
Originally Posted by TL1999
anyone has any sucess of removing the 3 screws that is holding the key in the key fob? I am having a hard time remove it...any idea will be helpful, thanks.
#362
GO DAWGS!! SICK'EM!!
Originally Posted by BG74
I had to drill 2 of the 3 out on mine....
GO DAWGS!!!!!!!!!!
#363
Ryan Christopher
Originally Posted by TL1999
anyone has any sucess of removing the 3 screws that is holding the key in the key fob? I am having a hard time remove it...any idea will be helpful, thanks.
In order to remove them without completly striping them out, you need the proper phillips bits. They used 2 different phillips bits on the screws that hold the key in. You will need to put something soft under the key, and press down with a lot of pressure and turn. I only had a problem with one of them, but they all did come out without having to drill.
#364
GO DAWGS!! SICK'EM!!
Originally Posted by Black_05_TL_6SP
They will come out. If you have already striped them then you will have to drill.
In order to remove them without completly striping them out, you need the proper phillips bits. They used 2 different phillips bits on the screws that hold the key in. You will need to put something soft under the key, and press down with a lot of pressure and turn. I only had a problem with one of them, but they all did come out without having to drill.
In order to remove them without completly striping them out, you need the proper phillips bits. They used 2 different phillips bits on the screws that hold the key in. You will need to put something soft under the key, and press down with a lot of pressure and turn. I only had a problem with one of them, but they all did come out without having to drill.
#366
Ryan Christopher
Originally Posted by pb1300
Why couldnt we just cut the old key and weld it to the ending of the blank key? would that work?
It will be only the blank key attached to the plastic. So for those that have one and have it apart, this would just drop in. It will require a transponder be inserted into it as well. That can be obtained from your valet key or anyone of the keys you have. Or it can be cut out of the one you have from the switchblade key and programmed to the car at the dealer.
#367
Ryan Christopher
Originally Posted by TL1999
Thank you. I got the items apart now I have half of screw in the back piece of the key. Any ideas?
#368
Originally Posted by pb1300
Why couldnt we just cut the old key and weld it to the ending of the blank key? would that work?
1. Cut the 07 blank about .35" from the plastic
2. Cut the 07 blank stump so the 04-06 blank would be sandwiched between like so:
If you could make those precision cuts, then you could weld the blanks together somehow...just a thought. And probably a stupid one at that.
-chad
#370
Team Anthracite
Originally Posted by DeadLock
I really think welding is a bad idea.
Any new updates with milling the key blank down to work like the 04-06 key?
Any new updates with milling the key blank down to work like the 04-06 key?
#371
8th Gear
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I explored the cutting and welding idea over the weekend and it is a bad idea.
1. Most likely the heat will melt the plastic.
2. Even if you can somehow manage to weld the two (shaving the 07 key to match the width of the old key before the weld ofcourse) there is a very strong possibility that the key might break in the ignition switch.
I am planning to take the 07 key fob apart and see if I can find another way.
1. Most likely the heat will melt the plastic.
2. Even if you can somehow manage to weld the two (shaving the 07 key to match the width of the old key before the weld ofcourse) there is a very strong possibility that the key might break in the ignition switch.
I am planning to take the 07 key fob apart and see if I can find another way.
#373
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Originally Posted by carpecervisi
When tidus888 first posted this idea (I think he was the first) it kind of intrigued me. I was thinking along a different line though:
1. Cut the 07 blank about .35" from the plastic
2. Cut the 07 blank stump so the 04-06 blank would be sandwiched between like so:
If you could make those precision cuts, then you could weld the blanks together somehow...just a thought. And probably a stupid one at that.
-chad
1. Cut the 07 blank about .35" from the plastic
2. Cut the 07 blank stump so the 04-06 blank would be sandwiched between like so:
If you could make those precision cuts, then you could weld the blanks together somehow...just a thought. And probably a stupid one at that.
-chad
No welding... no glue... and would never come apart.
#375
Trucki!!
iTrader: (1)
Those screws are a bitch to get out. I go 2 out, but one will not budge. Its the shortest of the three, and its almost stripped. I need to find a flat head screw driver that fits to utilize the two good threads left. What are my options if I can't get it out? I saw where you guys said drill it out, whats invloved in that? Can I do it with a dremel?
#376
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Originally Posted by lembowski
Those screws are a bitch to get out. I go 2 out, but one will not budge. Its the shortest of the three, and its almost stripped. I need to find a flat head screw driver that fits to utilize the two good threads left. What are my options if I can't get it out? I saw where you guys said drill it out, whats invloved in that? Can I do it with a dremel?
#377
Originally Posted by lembowski
Those screws are a bitch to get out. I go 2 out, but one will not budge. Its the shortest of the three, and its almost stripped. I need to find a flat head screw driver that fits to utilize the two good threads left. What are my options if I can't get it out? I saw where you guys said drill it out, whats invloved in that? Can I do it with a dremel?
I guess if you have the right dremel bit and are very careful, you could use one. Good luck.
-chad
#378
Trucki!!
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by carpecervisi
Yeah, for whatever reason that third screw, the silver one, is a real bitch. The other two have thread locking gunk on them so they are a little tough to get out, but the silver screw I ended up getting a small drill bit and literally drilling out the head of the screw.
I guess if you have the right dremel bit and are very careful, you could use one. Good luck.
-chad
I guess if you have the right dremel bit and are very careful, you could use one. Good luck.
-chad
#379
Bone stock tl-s
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by lembowski
Those screws are a bitch to get out. I go 2 out, but one will not budge. Its the shortest of the three, and its almost stripped. I need to find a flat head screw driver that fits to utilize the two good threads left. What are my options if I can't get it out? I saw where you guys said drill it out, whats invloved in that? Can I do it with a dremel?
use this precision screwdriver, i got it at home depot for $5 works really good. i got mine out no problem, place the key on a flat surface, put something soft like a towel under it, apply a good amount of presure, almost as if you are leaning all you upper body on the screwdriver and turn, they come out, and you wont strip any of them
#380
Senior Moderator
is anyone still trying to find out if the 07 blank can be machined to the 04-06 blank by a CNC/Mill?
#381
Ryan Christopher
My uncle is working on creating the mold for the replacement key. I hope to have something tangible by the weekend. I will keep everyone posted to my progress with this project.
Jason
Jason
#382
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Originally Posted by csmeance
is anyone still trying to find out if the 07 blank can be machined to the 04-06 blank by a CNC/Mill?
Pete
#384
John Starks - The Dunk
Originally Posted by FLBusa
There's no question that it can be milled to duplicate the '06 and lower keys. I'll keep everyone posted on my progress.
Pete
Pete
Pete, that is great news! I'm still on your list right?
#388
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As promised... Here's an update on my progress with machining the key.
First and foremost I had to machine a test key out of aluminum before I committed the '07 key.
First I cut down a piece of 1/2 x 3/16 aluminum stock to match the width of the '07 key and the thickness of my '06 key.
Next I cut the small grooves. Since the key is radially symetrical I just have to open the vice, flip the blank and cut the groove on the opposite side.
Prototype with completed grooves.
Next I cut the thin blade portion and the small step that acts as a stop for the key.
Once again... flip the key in the vice and let it rip.
Last part was to grind the tip angles and deburr the key.
Now to take it outside and test it...
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Viola!!!! The key blank went in like it was a part from a swiss watch.
Funny thing though... At first it wouldn't go into the ignition.
Then I pulled out my key and held it next to the prototype key and it slid right in.
Darn imobilizer chip... good to know that you have a little bit of added security though.
Next... The '07 key.
First and foremost I had to machine a test key out of aluminum before I committed the '07 key.
First I cut down a piece of 1/2 x 3/16 aluminum stock to match the width of the '07 key and the thickness of my '06 key.
Next I cut the small grooves. Since the key is radially symetrical I just have to open the vice, flip the blank and cut the groove on the opposite side.
Prototype with completed grooves.
Next I cut the thin blade portion and the small step that acts as a stop for the key.
Once again... flip the key in the vice and let it rip.
Last part was to grind the tip angles and deburr the key.
Now to take it outside and test it...
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Viola!!!! The key blank went in like it was a part from a swiss watch.
Funny thing though... At first it wouldn't go into the ignition.
Then I pulled out my key and held it next to the prototype key and it slid right in.
Darn imobilizer chip... good to know that you have a little bit of added security though.
Next... The '07 key.
#391
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Originally Posted by AcuraTL06
WOW!
That looks like A LOT of trouble for the key...
But props to you. Good job!
That looks like A LOT of trouble for the key...
But props to you. Good job!
...and I won't settle for anything less than perfect.
It also gives me an opportunity to create a setup on the mill.
Total time to setup and make the prototype was 3 hours. Time well spent IMO.
#392
Senior Moderator
FLbusa, if you can get a complete key (unlock/lock/trunk/key/immobilizer) in driver 1 that the dealer can program for me, i'd be one of the first to buy them, where do i pay?
#393
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Originally Posted by csmeance
FLbusa, if you can get a complete key (unlock/lock/trunk/key/immobilizer) in driver 1 that the dealer can program for me, i'd be one of the first to buy them, where do i pay?
Just PM me.
I still have a way to go. ...still need to get a custom cutter and some quick change tooling going.
#395
Team Anthracite
Hey good job there! do you mind posting the exact dimensions of the org key?
and what size drill bit did you use to cut the grove?
and what size drill bit did you use to cut the grove?
Originally Posted by FLBusa
As promised... Here's an update on my progress with machining the key.
First and foremost I had to machine a test key out of aluminum before I committed the '07 key.
First I cut down a piece of 1/2 x 3/16 aluminum stock to match the width of the '07 key and the thickness of my '06 key.
Next I cut the small grooves. Since the key is radially symetrical I just have to open the vice, flip the blank and cut the groove on the opposite side.
Prototype with completed grooves.
Next I cut the thin blade portion and the small step that acts as a stop for the key.
Once again... flip the key in the vice and let it rip.
Last part was to grind the tip angles and deburr the key.
Now to take it outside and test it...
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
Viola!!!! The key blank went in like it was a part from a swiss watch.
Funny thing though... At first it wouldn't go into the ignition.
Then I pulled out my key and held it next to the prototype key and it slid right in.
Darn imobilizer chip... good to know that you have a little bit of added security though.
Next... The '07 key.
First and foremost I had to machine a test key out of aluminum before I committed the '07 key.
First I cut down a piece of 1/2 x 3/16 aluminum stock to match the width of the '07 key and the thickness of my '06 key.
Next I cut the small grooves. Since the key is radially symetrical I just have to open the vice, flip the blank and cut the groove on the opposite side.
Prototype with completed grooves.
Next I cut the thin blade portion and the small step that acts as a stop for the key.
Once again... flip the key in the vice and let it rip.
Last part was to grind the tip angles and deburr the key.
Now to take it outside and test it...
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
Viola!!!! The key blank went in like it was a part from a swiss watch.
Funny thing though... At first it wouldn't go into the ignition.
Then I pulled out my key and held it next to the prototype key and it slid right in.
Darn imobilizer chip... good to know that you have a little bit of added security though.
Next... The '07 key.
#397
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Originally Posted by tidus888
Hey good job there! do you mind posting the exact dimensions of the org key?
and what size drill bit did you use to cut the grove?
and what size drill bit did you use to cut the grove?
No disrespect here but...
You're on your own chief...
Originally Posted by tidus888
i am planning to cut the 07 blank monday to see if it works or not with the slimmer width =)
Let me know how things work out for ya.
ps... Don't forget to measure twice and cut once.
#398
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Originally Posted by studville
What exactly is a precision screwdriver. And what is the difference between it and a regular screwdriver?
#400
'04 6mt Pearl
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FBusa,
Nice work. Looks promising.
Is aluminum the material of choice or just a beta test ? There will be allot of leverage on the key if it has a FOB attached to it so it will be easier to break.
I am not a locksmith but there must be reasons why they use brass and aluminum keys. Would a stainless key be too hard on the ignition ? At least it would be strong.
Nice work. Looks promising.
Is aluminum the material of choice or just a beta test ? There will be allot of leverage on the key if it has a FOB attached to it so it will be easier to break.
I am not a locksmith but there must be reasons why they use brass and aluminum keys. Would a stainless key be too hard on the ignition ? At least it would be strong.