I've come across these 15watt HID kits that are made for reverse housings.

Without getting into how stupid it is to have HID kits in your reverse socket - has anyone tried it in the TL?

They go for around 60-100 dollars. They are plug and play and require no wiring to the battery or relay. Only runs on 2amps apparently.

 

i don't think its stupid to have reverse HID lights. i have them on mine with a tailgater switch and i love how bright they are. i can see EVERYTHING when going in reverse on my back up camera.

 

Do you have a 35watt kit retrofitted? Or do you have this plug and play 15 watt kit?

 

i have the 35w ddmtuning kit w/ 5k bulbs.

tailgater switch is the best. seeing the reaction on peoples faces when they're driving too close behind me is priceless.

 

This is what I need!

 

I'd be interested to see these in the TL...

 

Whats the luminocity rating?

It'd be a shame to purchase then find out they aren't much brighter than cheap LEDs

And I agree with the tailgater switch HIDs, one of my favorite mods haha

 

Not sure how bright they are. I was hoping someone would have them to tell. I have LEDs right now and to be honest they aren't much brighter vs the stock bulbs in the reverse camera.

This 15watt option is good for people who don't want to DIY retrofit a 35watt system. It's plug and play and doensn't require a relay. Someone do itt!!!

 

^you do it. let us know how it is.

 

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-s...-watt-kit.html

 

I remember seeing a thread here about a 3G in NY that had HIDs in his reverse lights. he also had the tailgater switch mod.

 

found the video

 

That is a 35watt HID kit. To install it you have to wire to the battery and retrofit it to the reverse housing.

This 15watt kit I am referring to is plug and play. No wiring. It's specifically designed for reverse lights.

I might pick one up.. I question the quality of these kits though. They kind of look like crap..

What are the risks? Could anything heat up and set fire to anything else? Or would the fuse kick in before that.

 

I think something like this would probably be just as good: http://www.vleds.com/featured/high-p...ate-frame.html

It's cheaper too. Plus, people with automatics would probably ruin HID reverse lights fairly quickly with all the momentary blinks from shifting between park and drive.

 

Have them. And thats my extensive youtube video me and Trew made back in 2009... lmao.

I have the 35W kit retrofitted and they are still up and running without a glitch. So to those who state that the wires get burnt are wrong. I have it on a delay timer switch so that when I shift between Park and Drive .. the delay timer prevents it from flickering on for that pass through.

I have the 15W installed in my parents Lexus for them to back out and it just makes the install easy. I added a timer to that as well because it prolongs the ballasts. I don't know why people waste their money on LED's.

I'm completely happy with mine.

 

hmmm this is something for me to consider to do

 

I would be interested in this too. Let us know how they turn out.

Otherwise while I'm running my tailgater switch, I might as well run some power back there.

 

I want the delay timer! I hate that pass through flash. Did you do a write up on the delay timer?

 

lol I figured it was someone from NY when i first saw that thread I was drooling lol

 

Don't get that kit its total garbage. I bought it and I think I was the first and only TL to install that, I made a thread somewhere.

After installing it, the kit blew out after a week. The seller had me ship it back and sent me a new kit.....same story 3 weeks later blew out. This happened two more times until the seller stopped responding. I had spent $40 in shipping that shit back and $60 on the kit+numerous time wasted trying to figure out why its blowing.

If you really want to try it you could upgrade the reverse light fuse from 7.5 to 10 and that would help it from blowing.

 

why would that help?

 

Because the car does not provide enough power for both of the reverse HIDS to turn on. Usually one side turns on and the other side turns on dimly/flickers and turns right off. If you disconnect the other side the side that was flickering/dimly turning on will turn on 100%.

This same issue happens when you install HID fogs and use stock wiring. People fix the issue by upgrading the 10A fuse to 15A and it solves the problem.

 

yeah i wouldn't recommend just upping the amperage of the fuses so that things don't fry. doing so means that you are allowing a higher capacity of amps to flow into whatever you are trying to power. that's a good way to start a fire, but not to operate these reverse HID's.

that's what the relay harness kits are for.

your kits aren't blowing because they're pieces of shit. they're blowing because you aren't distributing the power correctly.

 

for those of you who want to take bad advice from someone, here is a prime example. Sure you can change the fuse to a higher amperage fuse, but guess what??? The manufacturer designes wiring harnesses, wire thickness, and insulation to handle a certain amount of amperage.

If you increase the amperage flowing through a certain circuit, you are more likely to fry something else, melt wiring, or cause fires in some cases.

Cant believe that actually had to be said....

 

you were slinging this kit here for a group buy huh??

https://acurazine.com/forums/ny-nj-320/interest-group-buy-hid-reverse-interior-led-kits-854200/

 

Well why don't you tell that to everyone that suggests upgrading the fog fuse to 15A? If you look around one guy says it in almost every thread. I had that done for almost 2 years to my foglights and I had no problems. You are taking a 7.5A fuse and upgrading it to 10A. Upgrading the 7.5A to a 10A won't cause fires LMAO. Not like you are sticking in a 30A fuse.

 

Yup. That was BEFORE the issues started happening. Thanks for looking through my threads and posting a useless post.

 

i thought it was 10A to 15A?

 

Because I havent read those threads, and im reading yours. Im letting the general public know that if it were supposed to be a 10amp fuse, it would have been a 10amp fuse. You want to take the chance in your car and do the install the half ass way, cool man! Electronics in TL's and most newer cars for that matter are very sensative. In that thread, you talk about hooking up the fog light HID's to the battery? Does that mean you have a 15 amp fuse in the relay harness you installed?? One can get easily confused..


The thread is still open. It only stands to logic that if you were trying to get a group buy to happen or telling people how great they are throughout that entire thread, and now you are having/had problems with them, you would want the rest of the community to know. Looks like you really want to help people out, guy.

 

The fog fuse is 10A stock and people upgrade it to 15A so the HID fogs have no issues. With 10A people would constantly report that one side does not turn on or requires multiple fire ups for it to turn on. Fog lights are on all the time I run mine 24/7 and no issues EVER.

The reverse light fuse is 7.5A and I was just suggesting you could try upgrading it to 10A. I would understand if I was suggesting 15A or something similar but a 3.5W would do no harm espically since the reverse lights are on for a few seconds to a minute at MAX. Not like you run them 24/7.

The purpose of these kits are "plug and play". They are not plug and play once you start adding wiring harnesses, if I was going to add a harness I would do a 35W kit to get maximum brightness and pay much less $$$$.

 

the fact is, if they dont work with what the car is designed to have, power rating wise, they still arent "plug and play".

As i said, dont make recommendations to people that can damage their car. YOU can take that chance, but I wouldnt recommend it

 

The wiring harness in my foglights have a 20A fuse. I upgraded the stock fuse from 10A to 15A which is easy to figure out if you aren't illiterate.

That thread thread barely got a reply lol. I was under the impression that no one was interested and if someone who somehow found the year old thread was and they PM'ed me I would tell them the situation.

Looks like you really like starting trouble for no reason.

 

Excuse me, I referenced the wrong thread..

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/just-put-hids-my-reverse-lights-853528/

If you have a 20A fuse for the power going to your fog lights, there is no reason to increase the size of the fuse in the fuse block. You are getting power directly from the battery through the relay, to the ballasts.

Youre contradicting yourself all over the place man.

 

While the increase is a modest 2.5A, and probably wont hurt anything, it is still bad practice.

Can we get back to the 15W HID kit, can someone buy it already so I know if I should buy it

 

I ran my fogs without a relay for 1.5 years. To do so I upgraded the stock fuse from 10A to 15A.

After 1.5 years I decided I wanted to run independent fogs so I bought a relay that has a 20A fuse.

 

the relay was the key, not the larger amperage fuse.

 

 

Stop saying that putting the wrong fuse in your circuit is an "upgrade". That's dangerous misinformation. It's not an upgrade, it's just stupid.

Fuses are there to protect a circuit from current levels that could damage the wiring. If a circuit is fused for 7.5 amps, then that is all that the circuit was designed to safely handle. If you're blowing fuses then you are either drawing more current than the circuit was designed for or you have a wiring problem. Either one is dangerous.

Simply installing a bigger fuse in the circuit completely negates the purpose of even having a fuse. Who's to say the wiring won't just melt/catch fire before the higher amperage fuse blows?

If you're blowing fuses due to excessive current draw, then the solution is not to replace your stock fuse with a higher amperage one. What you need to do is install an independent relay harness with heavier gauge wire.

 

 

I can get them for $45 locally so I might give them a try. I've read reviews on some other forums and they seem to work fine. The 35 watt retrofit is more work than I want to do so this 15 watt kit might just be the key!