'07 Type S Blown MT

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Old Sep 13, 2018 | 09:38 PM
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'07 Type S Blown MT

Just got word that my 6 spd transmission bit the dust in my 07 type s. The car just cracked 120k miles and has always been well taken care of. Anyone know what the market is for a car in this state? I'm thinking about selling it as is.


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Old Sep 13, 2018 | 10:30 PM
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Probably 1 grand.
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Old Sep 14, 2018 | 09:03 AM
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I'd say about $5000-$6000. New Trans is going to run about $2500 installed.

I'd say the car is worth $8000-$9000 as is. Maybe a little more.
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Old Sep 14, 2018 | 09:03 AM
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From: SE Wisco
Condition pending of course.
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Old Sep 14, 2018 | 09:09 AM
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A few questions:
  • What kind of condition is the car in?
  • Is it stock or have you put mods into it?
  • What qualifies as a blown MT?
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Old Sep 14, 2018 | 09:47 AM
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if it was well taken care of, I don't understand how the trans blew at that mileage....either you fucked up royally or didn't maintain it
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Old Sep 14, 2018 | 11:51 AM
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How the heck did you blow the MT?


in for more info
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Old Sep 14, 2018 | 10:02 PM
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There's no way to fuck up a 6MT at that low miles. This car is a dicked up paper weight.
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Old Sep 14, 2018 | 10:17 PM
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i'm gonna guess that 1black wants to buy it...
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Old Sep 15, 2018 | 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by BreezyTL
I'd say about $5000-$6000. New Trans is going to run about $2500 installed.

I'd say the car is worth $8000-$9000 as is. Maybe a little more.
Just curious. Can you explain your rational behind suggesting that any 07, with a failed transmission, would be worth $8-$9K, as is? I was thinking more like $3.5-$4.5K, assuming the car was Immaculate.
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Old Sep 15, 2018 | 08:57 AM
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He really loves TL's and he's fighting depreciation tool and nail so if he can help keep the average up, he will.
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Old Sep 15, 2018 | 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by frankjnjr
Just curious. Can you explain your rational behind suggesting that any 07, with a failed transmission, would be worth $8-$9K, as is? I was thinking more like $3.5-$4.5K, assuming the car was Immaculate.
If he was selling a Type-S 6MT for $4,500, even with a bad transmission, I'd buy it in a heart beat.
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Old Sep 15, 2018 | 11:31 AM
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Well, he might be...
or even $1000 if he ever comes back into this thread!
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Old Sep 16, 2018 | 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by horseshoez
A few questions:
  • What kind of condition is the car in?
  • Is it stock or have you put mods into it?
  • What qualifies as a blown MT?
I should clarify, it's a suspected blown trans, as it's still on the car and hasn't been opened to verify. All the linkage otherwise looks intact. I was shifting at low rpm's from 1st to 2nd and suddenly it couldn't find a gear. Where ever you put the shifter, it just feels like it's floating in neutral. Moreover, there wasn't the typical grinding noises you hear when a trans does go. I feel like it's not truly blown, given how everything went down, but the quote to verify was pretty high so I'm not sure if I'll bother.

The car is in good shape overall. It's due for a clutch replacement in the near future, which I'd of course have done with the transmissions swap. The car lived most of it's life down south and never saw snow until '14/'15, so the undercarriage is still looking good. Exterior I'd say is a 7/10, few rock chips on the front bumper and a key mark on a rear door panel. Interior is in great shape, maybe a 9/10. Timing belt maintenance was done @ 105k, brand new windshield just a few weeks ago, new stoptech rotors and pads put on last yr. Only mods are 35% window tint and an aem cai.

I've driven this car as a daily for over 4 years. I don't beat on it and I've addressed maintenance proactively and quickly when issues arise. So this whole ordeal is a bit surprising. If I were reading a thread about a blown MT, I'd be saying the same thing everyone else has been saying.
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Old Sep 16, 2018 | 08:22 PM
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I'm going to throw out a wager and guess it might be a broken axle..

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Old Sep 16, 2018 | 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by No Shame
Where ever you put the shifter, it just feels like it's floating in neutral.
Can you elaborate on this a bit more? The shifter itself just floats around....as in there are no gates? Or none of the gears actually engage, but the shift gates are all still there? Does it feel any different with the engine on or off? If the engine is on, clutch pedal is released, can you put the shifter into any gear (I would expect it to grind)?

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Old Sep 16, 2018 | 11:28 PM
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Whether the car was on or off and whether or not the clutch was in or out didn't make a difference in the feel of the shifter. You could move it forward and back from top of 1 to bottom of 2 and it wouldn't engage a gear while having a loose, disconnected feel to it. The shifter itself still maintained rigidity, but it would move around with zero resistance. I don't recall if the gates were intact. There was no noise or grinding when moving the shifter around.
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Old Sep 17, 2018 | 04:06 AM
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Originally Posted by No Shame
Whether the car was on or off and whether or not the clutch was in or out didn't make a difference in the feel of the shifter. You could move it forward and back from top of 1 to bottom of 2 and it wouldn't engage a gear while having a loose, disconnected feel to it. The shifter itself still maintained rigidity, but it would move around with zero resistance. I don't recall if the gates were intact. There was no noise or grinding when moving the shifter around.
I'm thinking 99% odds the transmission is still good to go.
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Old Sep 17, 2018 | 06:51 AM
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I don't know much about this stuff but isn't there a clutch bearing shaft or something? Could that have seized up so that the clutch isn't actually being applied?
Sounds more like clutch, to me.
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Old Sep 17, 2018 | 08:45 AM
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From: SE Wisco
Originally Posted by frankjnjr
Just curious. Can you explain your rational behind suggesting that any 07, with a failed transmission, would be worth $8-$9K, as is? I was thinking more like $3.5-$4.5K, assuming the car was Immaculate.

Sorry, What I meant was it would be a 8-9 car as-is with a good trans in it. So around 5-6 I think would be fair depending on the overall condition. Obviously someone who knows the car and its value will need to buy it to get that much but you know everyone wants to buy nice things for the dollar these days...
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Old Sep 17, 2018 | 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by rockstar143
I don't know much about this stuff but isn't there a clutch bearing shaft or something? Could that have seized up so that the clutch isn't actually being applied?
Sounds more like clutch, to me.
Even if clutch were failed, there would still be feel to the shifter as it is moved through the gates. I can sit in my garage with the engine off and clutch pedal depressed, the shifter has very distinct clicks as you move from gate to gate. That is why I was wanting to get a better explanation of the feel of the shifter from the OP.

Originally Posted by No Shame
Whether the car was on or off and whether or not the clutch was in or out didn't make a difference in the feel of the shifter. You could move it forward and back from top of 1 to bottom of 2 and it wouldn't engage a gear while having a loose, disconnected feel to it. The shifter itself still maintained rigidity, but it would move around with zero resistance. I don't recall if the gates were intact. There was no noise or grinding when moving the shifter around.
This really makes me think you have a linkage issue. The amount of failure internally to make the shifter have no resistance or feel in all gears should be quite huge.

So the shifter itself still springs back to center?
- in theory this assembly is still good
But there is no feel as it moves into a gate to signify it engaged a gear?
- Is the detent for reverse still there? Any feel at all for any gear?
- this is why I am leaning more to a linkage issue
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Old Sep 17, 2018 | 10:16 AM
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He's saying it feels the same all the time so I think there is a feel to the shifter, it's just not doing anything.
Which makes me think throwout bearing is holding the clutch either in or out causing no engagement.

Maybe...
at this point we're all just guessing.
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Old Sep 17, 2018 | 02:47 PM
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Agreed it sounds like a shifter linkage problem. Even with a completely blown clutch, whether it's from a worn clutch plate, busted throw-out/release bearing, faulty master/slave, etc.... the shifter will still feel completely normal. They're almost 2 completely separate systems (one's a hydraulic system, one is a pure mechanical cable/linkage). No resistance when moving the shifter = problem with the cable/linkage.

@OP it's easy enough to see where the shifter linkages connect to the 2 tranny selectors on top of the tranny, directly underneath the throttle body. Take off the main engine plastic cover, and you might need to remove the intake from the TB and with someone in the car rowing thru the gears, look to see if you see the gear selectors moving. I'd put money on the selectors aren't moving, which I believe would be your "best" bet.
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Old Sep 20, 2018 | 07:49 PM
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Turned out to be a loose part just inside the transmission (no damage done). Sorry, I forgot the part name (I'm not a mechanic...), but it sits immediately below the intake at the top of the transmission. So all in all it turned out to be a pretty minor issue. Unfortunately, it took dropping the trans and opening it to fix, but I'll take that all day over a swap/rebuild.

Good thing I didn't sell it to @1black_seven for a cool grand...
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Old Sep 20, 2018 | 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by No Shame
Turned out to be a loose part just inside the transmission (no damage done). Sorry, I forgot the part name (I'm not a mechanic...), but it sits immediately below the intake at the top of the transmission. So all in all it turned out to be a pretty minor issue. Unfortunately, it took dropping the trans and opening it to fix, but I'll take that all day over a swap/rebuild.

Good thing I didn't sell it to @1black_seven for a cool grand...
Since the tranny was out did you put a new clutch in?
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Old Sep 20, 2018 | 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by horseshoez
Since the tranny was out did you put a new clutch in?
Yeah, might as well make the situation somewhat useful.
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Old Sep 21, 2018 | 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by No Shame
Turned out to be a loose part just inside the transmission (no damage done). Sorry, I forgot the part name (I'm not a mechanic...), but it sits immediately below the intake at the top of the transmission. So all in all it turned out to be a pretty minor issue. Unfortunately, it took dropping the trans and opening it to fix, but I'll take that all day over a swap/rebuild.
If I had to guess it sounds like it had something to do with part #'s 1, 3, 9 and 10 on the link below.

Good to hear it was an minor fix.

https://www.oemacuraparts.com/v-2007...--mt-shift-arm

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Old Sep 21, 2018 | 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by No Shame
Turned out to be a loose part just inside the transmission (no damage done). Sorry, I forgot the part name (I'm not a mechanic...), but it sits immediately below the intake at the top of the transmission. So all in all it turned out to be a pretty minor issue. Unfortunately, it took dropping the trans and opening it to fix, but I'll take that all day over a swap/rebuild.

Good thing I didn't sell it to @1black_seven for a cool grand...
Hey man, I'm actually glad to hear this was a minor issue. There's not enough of these cars left on the road anymore.
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Old Sep 21, 2018 | 10:57 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by zeta
If I had to guess it sounds like it had something to do with part #'s 1, 3, 9 and 10 on the link below.

Good to hear it was an minor fix.

https://www.oemacuraparts.com/v-2007...--mt-shift-arm
You're good. It was part #3. It had a lot of play; could swivel and and go up and down. Apparently it only came loose and didn't even have to be replaced. Unfortunately, it can only be tightened down from the inside of the trans.
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Old Sep 22, 2018 | 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by No Shame
You're good. It was part #3. It had a lot of play; could swivel and and go up and down. Apparently it only came loose and didn't even have to be replaced. Unfortunately, it can only be tightened down from the inside of the trans.

Just a good guess based on your description.

If you look at the 'line', on the parts diagram link, that goes from the case to part #1, that depicts that it fastens to the shaft of part #3 inside the case. Then (special bolt-8mm & conical spring washer) part #9 & 10 insert through #1 and into the 'passage' on #3 to hold it altogether inside the case, as you stated.
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