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Apple Carplay and Android Auto into RLX

Old 10-29-2018, 05:56 PM
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Apple Carplay and Android Auto into RLX

Hey Guys,
Just got my 2014 RLX PAWS and wanted to add Android Auto. Had to dump by 2002 Acura TL after 350k Miles. Tranmission is whining and jumping out of gear.
Anyways, I saw this on youtube and I know Navtool is pretty reputable.
Posting to see if anyone else has done this.

Planning to add this and wireless charging to the car.


-Ken
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Old 12-04-2018, 01:51 PM
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Finally Works


I did the install first Friday in November, but it didnít work. After working with support (very responsive) through that weekend it was determined that the RLX controls are different than what they were used to. Yesterday they were able to publish a firmware update to officially get CarPlay working. HDMI screen mirroring isnít working for me at the moment, but Iím more interested in CarPlay first anyways.

It is 100% plug and play, no wire splicing and the control are through the factory jog shuttle and directional pad. Iím still getting used to the controls, but Waze on the screen is fantastic.
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Old 12-04-2018, 02:20 PM
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Hey KRock,

I just tried to install it over the weekend and it didn't work. It wouldn't do carplay or android auto.

Can you take a screen shot of which software you used? I was talking them on Sunday and they said there was a software bug.

Let me know! Right now I have a $500 paper weight and the entire guts of my car laying in the cabin.

I took detailed pictures and also do a write up of the entire process.

Thanks in advance.

-Ken

Originally Posted by K.Rock View Post

I did the install first Friday in November, but it didnít work. After working with support (very responsive) through that weekend it was determined that the RLX controls are different than what they were used to. Yesterday they were able to publish a firmware update to officially get CarPlay working. HDMI screen mirroring isnít working for me at the moment, but Iím more interested in CarPlay first anyways.



It is 100% plug and play, no wire splicing and the control are through the factory jog shuttle and directional pad. Iím still getting used to the controls, but Waze on the screen is fantastic.
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Old 12-04-2018, 04:01 PM
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Try doing the update again. The told me yesterday that they had released an update that would work.
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Old 12-04-2018, 04:14 PM
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Yeah I just pinged them and they fixed it they said.... Hopefully my paper weight is going to do something tonight.

Thanks!

Originally Posted by K.Rock View Post
Try doing the update again. The told me yesterday that they had released an update that would work.
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Old 12-05-2018, 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by slider2828 View Post
Yeah I just pinged them and they fixed it they said.... Hopefully my paper weight is going to do something tonight.

Thanks!
Did this work out?

There's probably quite a few of us who'd be interested in this.
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Old 12-05-2018, 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by K.Rock View Post
...but Waze on the screen is fantastic.
And the Waze instructions and warnings play over the car's audio system, just as they ought to?

You have a 2016, so I assume we're talking Advance package and Krell Audio?
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Old 12-05-2018, 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by George Knighton View Post
And the Waze instructions and warnings play over the car's audio system, just as they ought to?

You have a 2016, so I assume we're talking Advance package and Krell Audio?
Yes I am a 2016 Advanced and Krell.
The NavTool has a several T interface wires and one of them intercepts the AUX signal at the back of the screen. You run jumper RCAs from the NavTool to these RCAs. Then the sounds is all piped in through the Aux input.

Disclaimer: Itís highly recommended to not go this route and instead run cables to the 3.5mm Aux input at the console. I have quite a bit of ground loop interference. Iím going to eventually take my T Aux cable out and do this, but temporarily I put in a ground loop isolator and that has seemed to eliminate the noise. I ended up mounting my NavTool in the glovebox. I had to take the glovebox out to put in lighted door sills, so it has worked out great because it makes it really easy to update the firmware.

CarPlay sound input has a separate Mic input that you have to use. I havenít hooked mine up yet to test. But even with CarPlay you can still make and receive calls over Bluetooth just fine. You cannot use Siri without the Mic hooked up.

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Old 12-11-2018, 03:07 AM
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Hey Guys,

Sorry to go dark on this. Was just having a bunch of issues with Android.

I guess I will do a step by step tomorrow. I detailed my installation in hopes to help out fellow members here. I installed it the exact same way in the video by T-ing into RCAs and don't get any interference. I am also RLX Advance with Krell.

All audio is piped through the system. I installed mine deep into the throat of the console stack. Seems to work fine and to my surprise it there is enough room. All the wires pipe out into the driver side, so technically no one can see it unless you know where to pull up the wire.

HDMI to mini DVI tested out fine on my laptop, so that connection is fine.

But Android Auto keeps on crashing and freezing. They are claiming that you need to be on Android Pie and with the latest Android. (This pissed me off as most people other than Pixel phones don't have Pie yet.)

So Android auto right now is useless garbage at least on my Samsun S8+.

Will be back to add pictures soon!

-ken

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Old 12-12-2018, 07:29 AM
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The reason I put my in the glovebox is that way I can get to it to apply updates or change cables, etc.
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Old 12-15-2018, 05:00 AM
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Old 12-15-2018, 05:29 AM
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Previous Post, I can't delete.

So Here is a quick step by Step
K Rock Put up the install video. Watch it a few times to get familiar.

This video also helped me understand how to take all the trims apart.

At this moment in time, 12/15/2018, Android Auto DOES NOT work. It starts and crashes on my S8+. Navtool says its because the system requires Pie which is Android 9 and unless you have a Pixel 3, I can't get it work.
I will update this thread as I will downgrade from Oreo to Nougat to see if that fixes the problem, but YMMV.

Tools - Quarter inch ratchet with a 10mm on it and a short extension. Must have.
Screw Driver - Philips medium and Small spade screw driver. Must have.
Allen wrench set - Must have.
RCA Left and Right Cable. Must have.



Whats in the package


Initial Setup on the software which is required


Start by removing driver side right leg kick panel. Literally just yank


Pull the center joystick column out. Literally put your finger where the little end of each side of the joystick column and pull towards you. This thing is on tight and there is nothing to jimmy. Just pull as hard as you can.


Once done remove all the cables. They are all just little tabs that you push in to release the cable from the socket. There is one upside down as shown in the below picture


Once the cables are all out, I turned on the car and shift it into neutral to give me more room to remove the joystick column.


After joystick column is removed, use that 1/4" drive 10mm socket and look up at the center console. You will see darker screw with the philips in the middle. THAT is the screw you need to remove on both sides.


Once you have taken out two of those screws, its time to remove the passenger side heater grill. Its one piece and you pull on the end nearest to the passenger side door. It just comes out. BUT BECAREFUL, once you pop a few out, there is a little wire to the sensor.



This little wire. Unclip and move on


Pull out the other heater trim that surrounds the center screen by also tugging on the lower right hand side. Once again BECAREFUL! There is a little cable attached to the heater sensor.


This little bastard


Once those are removed and there are a few more philips screws visible in the front. Just remove them and ignore my finger in the picture. It just points to where you yank.


Once you yank the whole think will come out. I basically removed all the cabling to see what I am working with.




These are the 2 plugs you splice in with the new harness


This is the digial video feed cable. It replaces the current cable.



Once you follow the youtube video and connect everything. You need to remove the top screen. To do so there is a philips screw in the ceiling of the bezel. remove it. Then take a screw driver and remove the bezel as well


Now there is another screw that holds the top part of the screen in. Remove the screw.


Now this part is nerve racking because the screen is literally clipped in 4 spots. As you can see I used as BIG as an allen wrench I could fit in there. As close to the lower left and / or right hand corner of the screen, I pulled as HARD as I could. I used latex gloves to give me more grip for pulling.
It will eventually pop out a little. Once it does, just angle it to the right and remove the digital cable and stick in the new one and pass it down to the center screen section and connect to the Navtool hub.


Once that is done. Test the hub before putting everything back.

To test, you need to go to the Auxiliary Audio screen and hold the Back Button. The secret menu will now pop up. Test your android auto or car play.


I even tested the HDMI screen mirroring and it looks good.



Once all the testing is done. I stuck my hub way into the throat of the car. It literally will lay flat to the hump / psuedo tranny tunnel there. I pointed the cables for HDMI, Android Auto / Carplay USB-C or Lightning Cable, and the USB update cable towards the driver side.
This will allow me quick access to the cables.
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Old 12-18-2018, 11:04 PM
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The agony of pulling out the top screen. I got stuck on that for like an hour. I was concerned with pulling thinking that there was a screw I was missing. Then I looked up the parts on a oem parts site and then my jaw dropped at how much that screen costs. That made me even more nervous about pulling it out.

Every other cable is a T cable, why couldnít they just have a T cable for the screen or at least connect both at the cable you unplug from the back of the radio.

What is is interesting is your HDMI works and mine doesnít. They are planning to post a second update after Christmas. I have inconsistencies with the reverse camera showing while in CarPlay and the front camera never shows when pressing the camera button.

Microphone: Where did you place the Mic at?
Firmware Updates: How are you going to unplug it to post a firmware update?
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Old 12-19-2018, 02:38 AM
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Responded in Line.

Originally Posted by K.Rock View Post
The agony of pulling out the top screen. I got stuck on that for like an hour. I was concerned with pulling thinking that there was a screw I was missing. Then I looked up the parts on a oem parts site and then my jaw dropped at how much that screen costs. That made me even more nervous about pulling it out.

Every other cable is a T cable, why couldnít they just have a T cable for the screen or at least connect both at the cable you unplug from the back of the radio.

This was definitely the toughest part, but I think with a strong allen wrench and right against the bottom corner, it should pull out.

What is is interesting is your HDMI works and mine doesnít. They are planning to post a second update after Christmas. I have inconsistencies with the reverse camera showing while in CarPlay and the front camera never shows when pressing the camera button.

So I got it working by using a HDMI to MINI-DVI port on my laptop. I think its a resolution issue. Trying changing 1024x768 or better on your source. I think it will work

Is there a schedule? How did you know they are getting an update?

Microphone: Where did you place the Mic at?

I snaked it through to the left hand side of the steering column. In my experience its best mounted in line of your mouth. Never works well anywhere in the ceiling.

Firmware Updates: How are you going to unplug it to post a firmware update?

I have 3 cables that are permanently ran in between the center console and drivers chair. So I never need to pull out the unit or any covers.

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