Lost both D1 and D2 settings.

Radio presets remained, but shortcuts are gone and seat/mirror do not change with Fob change. Also cannot even Set new D1 or D2 using the door buttons.

Will try unpair/repair Fob, but odd that it happened to both.

 

I cannot find anywhere in the manual the steps to unpair/pair fob. Did this go away with the RLX?
In any case, I think the profile settings are toast. I don't get any beep when I select "Set" on the door.

 

I believe the RLX is set up via the MID.

Try this pathway:

Vehicle Settings > Driving Position Setup > Memory Position Link.

I believe this activates the Mem 1 and Mem 2 presets. Perhaps yours lost it's 'memory' and needs to be reset. You scroll for the Steering Wheel settings when you are at the Memory Position Link.

I am still finding my 10 years with the RL is making it difficult to manage the RLX features. The set up and voice commands are handled differently, plus the abundance of additional customized features.

 

Gertakey:

Please try the procedure listed in this thread, Post #10. Maybe it will start working again.....

https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g...issues-935629/

HTH

 

Thanks - but did you see my reply to post #10 in that thread

"wonder what brilliant engineer thought of that reset procedure"

 

Sorry...... old thread, and did not go any further down than the #10 :-)

 

I tried the MID settings. Turned Off the memory position link, then turned back on.
Still cannot get Setting button to even beep on the door. Got out locked/unlocked, still nothing.

I would think the Door button setting would work whether or not the link to Fob is activated.

What I found odd is that when Car is in Accessory Mode, the Vehicle Settings is grayed out. Car has to be On for Vehicle Settings to be adjusted. All other settings work in Accessory Mode

 

Is it possible that each battery in each remote has died or is dying? If they have about the same amount of use it could be worth a shot (and inexpensive) to change the remote batteries.

 

I doubt that. You get a warning with the fob battery low.
Plus, as I said the basic door button to switch between D1 and D2 does not work. That should work independent of fob

 

Perhaps the Mem button module in the door has gone bad? Before heading to the dealer, I would check the diagnostics in the NAVI to see if anything is not working , otherwise a dealer code reader might be needed.

 

I had forgotten how to get into Diagnostics mode, so I googled Acura RLX Diagnostics.
Guess what came up as the #1 item - a Youtube video uploaded by our own NeuronBob!

 

When I lost my settings the dealer ran every test they knew about. And even though my battery was within spec range , but close to being out of spec, after replacing the battery all was well and has been sice.

 

Unfortunately, I think you were right. I had just gotten the Maintenance Minder when the settings went away, so I was going to wait a few weeks before taking to the Dealer and just have them check in the Maintenance Service.

Today at lunch, battery dead! Got a jump and now debating whether to get battery replaced. I'm out of town and drive back Friday. If car doesn't start in the AM, decision made for me

 

These should be standard equipment on RLs and RLXs...

However, since I purchased one, I have never used it on my own car.

 

My RL ate a battery every 3 yrs.
Now the RLX is 2 yrs?

I'm thinking we may start seeing a rash of battery complaints on this forum

 

Ditto. At 10 years I was on my 4th battery with the RL.

You may have a warranty claim. But should the RLX battery not be as odd sized as was the RL, I would go aftermarket when no warranty claim could be made. Acura batteries just do not tame the appetite of these cars. They snack on batteries like bon bons.

I am curious to see if the Sport Hybrid has issues since the car is started via the lithium batteries turning the pancake motor. And although the e system would juice the regular battery (instead of an alternator), that does not mean a faulty battery will not cause the RLX electronics to go nutty.

*sigh*

 

I didn't realize the SH is started from Lithium batteries. Makes some sense. So the other battery is strictly a "House" battery. I would think that should give it more life unless they downsized it. Is the house battery rated as a Starting Battery?

 

I have one of these in each of my cars, it has come very handy in jumpstarting the car (i have not had to use it on either one of mine yet):

 

The Sport Hybrid does not have a traditional starter motor, normally powered by the 12V. There also is no alternator in the Sport Hybrid, as the car is kinda an alternator itself.

From the Sport Hybrid Manual:

"Battery Types: There are two types of batteries in this vehicle: a standard 12-volt battery that powers the airbags, the interior and exterior lights, and other standard 12-volt systems; and a high voltage battery that powers the propulsion motors and recharges the 12-volt battery"

So theoretically the 12V in a Sport Hybrid will not drain but I would guess a faulty battery, that cannot hold a charge would set off the pretty little lights.

 

I have a 120 mile trip (each way) every week. Mostly highway, but some surface. I always average 31 to 32 mpg. Today averaged 27.5 mpg with the bad battery.
Do you think the battery put that much extra load on the alternator?

 

I changed the battery today. Tested at 490 cca instead of 550 cca
Seems odd that only 10% down cannot start the car.

Going to call Acura on Monday