I finally closed on the deal I negotiated on 2021.01.14 and took delivery of my new RLX tonight. My Grom VLine 2 came earlier in the week. Things left to order are Yakima roof racks (Thule doesn't seem to make fit kits for the RLX), hitch receiver, and trailer wiring harness. Can't wait till I get over my 600 mile break-in period. I noticed the 2020 owner's manual no longer refer this to "break-in" period like my 2012 owner's manual. I'm not too terribly happy with automatic transmission, but I think the RLX has many other things that tickle my fancy and I can overlook the lack of a clutch and manual shifter. =) I am also not too happy the dealer couldn't update my navigation database and software.

Anyone in the Midwest/Great Lakes area have any thoughts on winter tire/wheel sets, or overkill for our winters? I've never run them before, but considering them now.

 

Another RLX hybrid has found a happy home!

Any other mods planned other than the hitch and roof rack? The spare tire kit has already paid for itself for me when I got a pot hole caused flat the destroyed the front passenger tire 2 days after purchase. There was also an emissions recall or Odd gear monitor software update TSB 20-040. I had it done to my 18 RLX in Sept/20; but, I didn't have an issue before the update and haven't felt or noticed anything different afterwards.

 

Congratulations on the new car StHalcyon!! I hope you enjoy your Sport Hybrid as much as I do and have years and years of trouble free driving as I have.

I recall earlier on this forum the topic of towing came up and I believe that Acura does NOT recommend towing with the Sport Hybrid drivetrain. You should probably look into this before proceeding with any towing related installations. I don't recall the reasoning behind Acura's recommendation, but I suspect that towing may put different stresses on the rear twin motor unit which may cause issues.

 

Congrats on the new Sport Hybrid! The car is a real sleeper, but press the sport button, and the car will really impress with its power and handling capabilities. I've had plenty of fun in my '16 Sport Hybrid Adv leaving Audis, Bimmers, Mercs, and even Porsches behind... but it's a rare mood when I'll indulge. Mostly, it's a very comfortable place to spend time, enjoy the excellent Krell sound system, and eat-up miles...

As a Chicago dweller, I can relate to your winters in Michigan. You'll never want to drive in snow over 3-4 inches uncleared despite the AWD. I've been a Michelin devotee for many years until I put Vredestein Quatrac Pros. It's really a great all-season tire which will really do well in the lighter snow -- much better than the Primacys that come from the factory.

Enjoy the new ride!

 

Thanks! I did get TSB 20-040 done before I took delivery. I also wanted the dealer to perform the following before delivery, but they wouldn't budge or told me excuses except for TSB 20-040:

1. TSB 19-068v2 (Update PGM-FI software),
2. TSB 20-009 (phone call audio anomaly over BT with the radio),
3. Update Navigation DB and SW to newer version, at least the same as jdpdata's reported version.

The dealer kept on insisting the version I have is the absolute latest version (ST007.06.00/2.01.2b02). I tried my darndest 3 times, and every time they told me it's the latest. Funny thing is that when I called Nokia Here, they said they don't have the 2020 updates for sale yet as Acura hasn't released it, but told me that they can confirm that the DB version I provided is severely out of date. Short of putting the service department on a speakerphone call with Nokia Here, I don't know what else to do. But it's not the end of the world. Just annoying.

Thank you. I don't expect any issues with the Sport Hybrid as I have not had issues with any of my previously owned Acuras. I was hoping to drive my TL MT to the ground, projecting another 10 years and/or 100,000 miles, but unforeseen circumstances took that plan out.

You are correct about my wanting to tow with the car. Fortunately, the owner's manual states that the maximum load limit is 850 lbs (same as my 2012 TL), and my towing needs including myself is under the limit. The tongue weight of my use case would be well under 100 lbs. Basically, my towing needs are minuscule. I understand there are always chatter about the suspension or regenerative units, etc, but my use case would be less than when I have 4 coworkers carpool together with me to lunch (3 stocky and 1 skinny). This decision is not without careful thought and consideration.

Speaking of owner's manual... I noticed that the leather book holder is lacking (1) owner's manual, (2) navigation manual, and (3) radio security codes. I haven't heard back regarding the manuals, but I did notice the missing codes before I drove off the lot. I asked, and the dealer told me: There are no security codes in the RLX model. All you need to do is press and hold the power button for 3 seconds and everything will work again. Uhm... I was half tempted to unplug the 12v battery for a couple minutes and have him demonstrate the process for me. But I was also willing to give him the benefit of the doubt, even though I know this is the same system as the previous generation TLX and MDX. And guess what I did after I got home? I logged into my Acura Owners portal, and got the security codes for the VIN and Device ID combo. Anyway, anyone else missing those 3 things when you took delivery as well? (I am old school. When setting my HomeLink or any other settings, I like referring to physical manuals over PDF on my small smartphone screen.)

Thanks! I'm actually a Chicago resident myself as well! I can't wait till I hit that 600 mile mark and use the Sport button too. I did play with it while test driving a CPO 2020 RLX Sport Hybrid. Nice grin ear to ear. For my 2012 TL MT, the handling was so much better once I switched over to the Bridgestone Potenza RE980AS. It worked great in snow too. Until our first heavy snowfall with wintry mix several weeks ago when it didn't work well for that one single moment. Sigh. That's why I am considering getting winter tires/wheels, and ditching the less-than-prime Primacy for better summer or UHP AS. Or save the money and switch into better AS than the Primacy without getting dedicated winter tires/wheels.

 

Congrats! Looks exactly like my twin. This car is such a sleeper, you'll have a big smile on your face every time you press that pedal. As for tires, I'm looking to switch to Michelin AS3+ or the new AS4 going +1 to 255 section width. But I haven't yet found fitment for our cars with the newer AS4. I had AS3+ on my GS, loved it! Don't worry too much about getting OEM infotainment updated to latest version. Once you install that GROM, you'll never want to see that awful system again. I don't miss it one bit.

 

StHalcyon, I double checked the owners manual for my 2014 RLX Sport Hybrid regarding towing a trailer and the information is confusing because much of the manual is shared with the non-hybrid version of the RLX. While the manual states the towing capacity is 850 pounds, later on there is the following statement which I believe pertains to the Sport Hybrid: "Your vehicle is not designed to tow a trailer. Attempting to do so can void your warranties."

I think it would be wise to double check with Acura before installing towing gear. Just in case.

Sorry to be persistent with this, but I really do recall earlier discussions about the Sport Hybrid versions of the RLX and MDX NOT being recommended for towing a trailer. Things may have changed with the later models of the Sport Hybrid and I hope that is the case.

 

Please don't apologize for being persistent. It's good to be concerned and look out for others.

By the way, just for clarification, my mention of 850 lbs was not for towing capacity, but rather the maximum load limit. In the 2020 manual: "The maximum load for your vehicle is 850 lbs (385 kg). See the Tire and Loading Information label attached to the driver’s doorjamb. This figure includes the total weight of all occupants, cargo, and accessories, and the tongue load if you are towing a trailer." And the verbiage you pointed out also exists in the following page.

 

I think the issue with towing with the RLX/MDX hybrid is the 7DCT. The 7DCT clutch can overheat in low speed driving. I guess the 7DCT clutch isn't robust enough for slow maneuvers like creeping forwards/backwards or slowing going up inclines (like riding the clutch situations if you had a MT).

I think only the 3.5L+10AT fwd RLX is recommended for towing. You might need to remove the hitch if you take the RLX in for service or have an issue with hybrid powertrain down the road.

 

Does the GROM eliminate the connectivity issues with the iPhone and using Pandora? My biggest gripe with the RLX infotainment is the very slow connectivity and many times having to plug and unplug to get Pandora to stream.
Thanks!

 

Congrats on the beautiful new RLX! You will love it! Living in Chicago you may appreciate getting the WeatherTech front floor trays. I put them in my RLX this winter, I use my old 2012 RL all weather mats for the rear over the factory carpet mat blanket.

How many miles did you have on your 12 TL? Did you have any oil consumption issues? Those 6 speed sticks were as addicting as they were rare! Loved my 03 CL-S stick.

 

As for the UHP AS tires go, I am having a hard time wanting them for the RLX because I feel like 245 mm width is too wide for snow usage with a higher risk of hydroplaning on snow. Not to mention the 3.86" tirewall height is too low for our brutal Chicago winter potholes. I have previously suffered rim damage with my SpecB in Chicago, which had similar tirewall height at 3.81". But I don't imagine you will have the same concerns as I do for living in LA, unless you are a skier like me and go up Mammoth or Big Bear often with your RLX. If I get better UHP AS tires, I'll still suffer in the snow and risk rim damage. If I get winter tire/wheel setup and upgrade to summer tires on the stock rims, I may as well start a Only Fans account. Even then, I'm sure I wouldn't pull in the kind of cash needed. ;-)

As for the Grom, I'm definitely looking forward to installing it. Debating if I want to spend today doing it, or wait till I get all the power wires ordered for my BlackVue dashcam since I'll have trim panels removed. I haven't subscribed to the Honda service manual website to download everything I need yet, and based on my research the RLX is a lot simpler than other models I've had, but one thing I am wondering: Besides the climate control plug for the lower panel I have to unplug, do I have to unplug the emergency lights button at the top of the radio like the pre-2018 RLX? Everything I read indicates no need to remove the top panel above the radio (or in front and below the top display), so that leaves me to assume no need to unplug the the emergency lights button.

Speaking of Grom and SpecB, I started reminiscing Nokia Symbian's Android Auto before Android was even born that I added to my SpecB. I never got around to adding Grom to my TL because I had a wireless charger and mount combo on the base of the A pillar setup that I really liked. It wasn't blocking my view of the road, easy to glance to, not too close to my face where focus adjustment between road and screen is less, and easily reachable with my left hand quickly from the steering wheel. I am thinking about mounting my phone there for the RLX as well, so I may need to run a long USB wire from glove box to the driver side A pillar for the Android Auto. And possibly run a shorter USB wire to the center console and get a AMPS mount similar to my SpecB so I have both options, which requires me to plug/unplug the other end in the glove box. Where did you mount your phone, and where did run your USB wire from Grom to? I also bought the C-VTOYUSB cable, but now that I have taken delivery of the RLX and inspected the interior for planning things out in my head, I don't think I will be leaving my phone in the center console armrest box as imagined anymore.

 

Thanks for the suggestion. I personally prefer the soft rubber compound of the factory Acura all-season floor mats. For the same reasons you mentioned, I included the high-wall version of the Acura all-season floor mats in the price I negotiated. On my TL, especially on heavy snowfall days like today, I would easily track in lots of snow into the cabin, and I always had salt lines on the carpet along the side by the accelerator. Acura didn't have the high wall all-season floor mats for the TL.

I had 80,317 miles on the odometer. I am unsure if I had oil consumption issue or not, as 3 years into driving it, I started getting low oil pressure messages occasionally when I got closer to the end of my oil life. Sometimes at about 30% oil life, and sometimes at 10% oil life. I complained, and Acura performed a TSB to replace a gasket. It still continued to happen though, but the service writer would not look into it, because TSB had been performed, and it would be too much effort to perform burn rates (another way of telling me they're lazy to do it and they didn't think the reimbursement rate from Acura was anywhere close to the actual cost incurred). So I always kept a quart of Castrol synthetic 5W-20 in the cargo net in my trunk. Funny thing though, one time I checked the oil level same day after an oil change. I would get home, eat dinner, then go down and check after the oil settled. Let's just say the oil level was pretty close to the MIN level. I took it back in within the same week, and the service writer told me they put in the exact amount specified in their service manual, and if it is not below the MIN level, job done. Biggest eye roll I've ever had. A lot of the times, I just wish I can talk to the technician instead of liaising with someone who makes things up on the spot and get commission from every upsell service they push. Anyway, now I'm just ranting. LOL

 

That Pandora implementation in the Acura is completely useless and super frustrating to use. 9/10 times it doesn't sync. Only option is to uninstall Pandora on my phone then reinstall and pray to mighty Allah everything works. Every time I tried to use Pandora in both my MDX and RLX it doesn't work, makes me want to yank out the entire OEM system out. Good news with GROM is it complete bypasses the OEM awful infotainment. GROM is like a Android tablet, as such you can run any Android apps you want (Pandora, Spotify, iHearRadio, etc). For someone that does long distance driving like yourself, you also have access to the excellent Google Maps and Waze. Don't want to hijack this thread talking about GROM.. You can check out this thread: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-rlx-...rlx-sh-990937/

 

You do not have to remove emergency light button. In fact, it's very hard to remove if you have big hands. I barely fit my hands behind the radio to route wires, and I have very small hands and skinny fingers. Leave yourself plenty of time to route GROM cable harness, like I said, you don't have much room to work with. I ended up removing the kick panel below the glovebox making things a bit easier for me. All the panels are very easy to remove in the RLX, most of the time I only used my fingers, no pry tools needed. I highly recommend getting C-VTOYUSB Retention Cable from GROM, it's like $12 or something. With this cable you can use the existing USB plug in center console making the entire install very OEM like and I never have to open glovebox to plug in my phone. When I get into car, I plug-in phone to USB port in center console and leave it in there during the drive. I hate mounting phones to dash, it looks too cluttered for my OCD side. Good luck with install!

Forgot to mention, you can use wireless CarPlay if you use an iPhone. Wireless Android Auto is supposedly supported with Android 11. I have received Android 11 update on my Samsung Note 20 Ultra, but GROM still haven't updated their firmware to support Wireless Android Auto yet...c'on GROM!! With wireless you don't even need to plug anything in. Just start the car, GROM should detect your phone and launch Android Auto/CarPlay automatically. Still need to figure out a way to wirelessly charge my phone for long distance driving.

 

Thanks for letting me know about the emergency lights plug. Having pulled quite a few radio head units from many cars and ran wires in the past, I plan to use my track motorcycle fairing fasteners to aid in running wires. LOL

And yes, I purchased the C-VTOYUSB cable along with my Grom. Verified it's in the package I received earlier this week. I think I'm going to install it today because next weekend is Super Bowl.

 

You’ve already received good advice, so I’ll only say “congratulations”, and enjoy on good health.

 

So yeah, after spending my Sunday afternoon and evening meticulously installing Grom, I ended up looking up how to remove the A pillar and realized I actually had to unplug the wire for the emergency lights switch. It is not long enough to pull out the radio unit. But once unplugged, it afforded me only an extra inch at best. The factory harness is super short. Until you unplug all the connectors that need to be y-split in, it's difficult with thick hands. I took pictures, but I'll post them later. For now, I have an issue I have to deal with Grom.

After installation and Grom Initialization, screen was able to display factory content: "The navigation system lost power and is acquiring its location from GPS satellites. This usually takes less than 10 minutes. Bla bla bla." I drove outside and waited a little over 5 minutes, and I hear factory beep and the display turns black. Clicking on factory Nav, Phone, Info, etc buttons all produces beeps (indicating I entered that mode), but the screen remains black. The screen has no problem displaying Grom content (after holding down Menu for 3 seconds). Reverse function triggers, but also shows blank screen. Funny thing is that it actually displayed factory content only initially when the radio unit had its power cut and restored. I've even updated the VLine software from V20VL3.29.0.0 to V20VL3.33.0.0, and still same behavior.

If I can't even see my factory content when I exit out of Grom content mode, then I don't think I want to keep this. But seeing how others can, I am assuming this problem can be fixed. Messaged Grom already. Pictures to come.

 

Sounds like a bad video connection between radio and VL2. I would try re-seating the cable at both ends. Maybe just a loose connection.

 

Welcome to the RLX family. Wife has an '18 RLX SH and loves it! We live in NH and always put on a dedicated set of snow tires and wheels for the winter - both to improve traction and to save the nice wheels/tires from all the crap on the roads. Here's a pic of her car after a changeover this past fall. I have a set of 17" Drag DR-69 wheels from discounttiredirect.com, a set of 17" Nokian Hakka R3 snow tires, and factory OEM TPMS sensors. Does an excellent job.

 

Sorry to hear you're having issues with your GROM installation. Definite sounds like a connection issue, either bad cable or poor connection somewhere. I'd double check all the connections are secured. I guess I'm lucky, as I have installed two GROM Vline2 units now (in my Lexus GS 350 and now RLX) and have not experienced any major issues. In fact, my GROM unit in the RLX is working so flawlessly, I'm amazed. I was expecting some issues like a few BSOD and screen flickering like I did on my GS. You're in good hands with GROM, their tech support is very responsive and will send you out a new cable if that's the issue. Be aware that GROM has not fully tested VL2 on our newer 2020 RLX SH, at least that's what they told me when I contacted them. These cars are very rare and they're having trouble finding any volunteers with newer RLX to test when they moved to their new Texas facility. I believe they only tested on 2016 RLX, but the infotainment system are very similiar between the two cars. But I'm a testament that it does work. Only minor glitch I experience so far is sometimes "OK, Google" detection doesn't work. This is a Google issue, nothing to do with GROM. Temporary work around is to uninstall updates for "Google" app, after which "OK, Google" works flawlessly. Google has updated that app several times now, I've been testing it, voice detection is still a hit or miss.

 

James, thanks for the suggestion. I have already reseated connectors once already. Strange thing is that the video from the radio/nav is passed through successfully when the message was a warning that it needs to resync with GPS for time and location. That video pass-through works every time. I was in the garage and restarted my car 3 or 4 times, because I didn't realize the instruction manual had a initialization step. Then I drove to a first location thinking I had a clear view of the sky, but after 15 minutes, the radio/nav still displayed the warning about needing to get a GPS fix. Drove back home to get a coat, then drove to a farther location with less tall buildings within 100 yards of me. Video pass through was still successful, until the radio/nav successfully got its GPS fix. That's when it beeped twice, and then the video pass-through stopped working.

Based on the symptoms, I don't think it is likely to be a physical connection, but rather possible that the initial warning display from the radio/nav is being sent at a different refresh rate than when it is operating normally, and for some reason my Grom unit couldn't handle it. If it was a physical connection between the radio/nav out to the Grom in-portion of the Y-split, then I shouldn't be seeing the factory warning message clearly to begin with. But that's just my opinion. Or another possible explanation is that the initial warning display from the radio/nav is sent out through one set of wires, and the regular display from the radio/nav is sent out another set of wires, and one of those wires are bent like in your case? I hope not. LOL But I'd be interested to hear your thoughts on the symptoms and remediation attempts I've already tried.

 

So you didn't do the first initialization step? That's very important step that most people miss. That could explain some of your issues if you skipped that step. I believe you can reflash the firmware to set everything back to factory default, GROM can show you how to do this. I never had to do any of that GPS fix. Mine just worked. Did you disconnect the battery during installation? I did not. Maybe lost of power cause some weird sync issues. Or you could have a bad display cable. We're all guessing. You'll have to contact GROM support to see what's going on.

 

I did not disconnect the battery. However, I just assumed one of the pins in the MCFHA3 connector supplied the power. However, because my short nails and fat thumb couldn't disconnect the VHON3D connector, I disconnected the adjacent connector (highlighted in dark orange below) to give me more thumb space. Maybe that was the power connector?

Sorry I wasn't clear, as I missed something in my description. After realizing I had missed the initialization step, I performed it. That was the only way I can get the Grom output to show up on my screen. Otherwise, holding down Menu button over 3 seconds result in nothing.

Only after I successfully initialized Grom did I then drive outdoors to get my GPS fix to get rid of the factory message that Grom successfully passed the video from radio/nav to my screen: "The navigation system lost power and is acquiring its location from the GPS satellites. This usually takes less than 10 minutes. Bla bla bla." So I went outdoors for my first attempt to get my GPS time and location. I was able to get the time (RLX LCD clock) updated to correct time and timezone about 3 minutes of parking, but it still wouldn't get a location fix. The message remained for 15 minutes.

Then I went home to get a coat. This is also when I decided to update the Grom software. Firmware was already latest. Rebooted. Also tried resetting it (after new upgrade). Then I drove out to another location to re-attempt to clear the factory message about the factory navigation system needing to get its GPS fix. Only then when it was successful, the factory display stopped being passed through Grom.

Let me see about how I can reflash the Grom, if that is separate from resetting.

 

So your radio lost power and GPS sync somehow. I told ya it's very tight back there. Took me 4 hours to route all the cables, hand all scratched up what a PITA!! I believe reflash GROM firmware should fix your issue. Contact GROM, they will give you procedure and firmware file. Good luck!!

 

I'm almost certain that there is only one video line to the display. It seems that you have seen no factory video from the radio since that initial GPS fix, right? Maybe the software in the radio unit is locked up. I would try removing the negative battery cable, to cycle the power to the radio. If that doesn't fix it, I would take the admittedly unpleasant step of temporarily putting the original video connection back (I know how hard it is to do when you have big fingers like I do), to see if the radio's video can come through without the VL2 being involved.

 

Actually, routing wires wasn't an issue for me. It was other stupid things, and I documented the lessons learned in the other thread. Here is what I did to run wires. By the way, 14" zip ties were barely long enough. I had to get a different type, as well as put two 14" zip ties together to make it work.

For the base of the A-pillar into the glove box:

Shine a flashlight from the glove box to see your biggest openings are.

Use electrical tape to wrap your plugs into the connector part of the zip tie.

Snake the other end of the zip tie towards the light, and watch from the glove box until the zip tie appears. Gently pull.

When pulling, don't yank harder if you hit a snag. Jiggle wiggle and gently tug. Finally home free.


For the center console to the glove box:


Here is where zip ties are awesome. With flash light shining through the opening and looking through other end, you can figure out the general curvature needed. Bend zip tie to approximate curvature and length.

Thread the zip tie through the glove box into center console.

Wrap electrical tape onto the zip tie connector end, ensuring a tight wrap at the neck. This prevents decoupling the zip tie from the wires you want to run.

Wrap electrical tape around the plug of the wires you are running, and taper it down to the zip tie such that it looks like a funnel. This helps with snagging prevention when pulling through tight spaces.

Gently pull. Home free.

Hope this helps you for future projects, or anyone else considering what we're doing. =)

 

Thanks for the suggestion for power cycling the radio/nav unit, James. That will definitely be one of the things I try later after work.

I don't think the factory unit is locked up, because while on the warning message, every time I press any of the factory modes (i.e. Nav, Phone, Info, etc), I hear no beeps and it stays on the warning message.

After I got the GPS fix and the screen started going blank, every factory mode I press results in a beep. Because it is similar to my 2012 TL system, I have each mode somewhat memorized. Hitting Nav beeps and should bring me a map, and hitting Enter will beep again and bring me the cross hair. Same with Info mode, or Phone mode. So I don't think it is locked, but rather not having video passed through.

I have taken radio head units off from a few cars, and I was not mentally prepared at how tight the RLX was and how many cuts I endured. I think the RLX gave me the most cuts to date. LOL I could've worn clothe gloves or workshop gloves, but when dealing with small plugs, I want to be able to feel the release latch, which are super tiny.

 

Looks like you're a pro at fishing wires. I didn't have any of those longer zip-ties available at time of install. I mostly used a flexible grabber tool to fish the cables thru and grabbed it on other end with my small hands and fingers. I ran out of electrical tape, had to use painter's tape. What a PITA to remove all the tape afterwards. Now that the GROM VL2 unit is installed, I'd never want to remove it. Thankfully, my unit is working flawlessly no need to open dash back up. I would probably include the GROM unit if I ever sell this car.

 

Thanks for the compliment, although I doubt I'm a pro at fishing wires. I'm sure those Crutchfield and Best Buy technicians can run circles around me with one hand and blindfolded. =P

 

I'm sure an installer at pro shop could install GROM VL2 in under 90 minutes flat. But that would have cost additional $$ and would deprive you of joy and satisfaction of doing the install yourself.

 

My Grom saga continues. Took out the radio head unit again, and the video cable is firmly locked in place. Unplugged it and reseated. Same result. Then I unplugged the 12V battery. This time, the Grom refused to pass the warning message to the display. I know it is displaying that warning message about lost power because the LCD clock went to 19:00, and pressing any of the mode buttons did not result in a beep. I've sent all pictures and videos to Grom support. Bad video cable? Bad HDMI connector on the VLine module? Bad VLine module? I guess we'll have to see what Grom says.

In other news, I finally mounted my dashcam. Bought for the TL 9 years ago but never unboxed it. LOL

 

I admire your tenacity! Will be very curious to hear what the root cause of the issue is.

 

Thanks. Truth be told, my tenacity is quickly running out. Grom tech support may be responsive, but their responses leave lots to be desired. I don't fault them though, because I assume most customers need assistance on the most basic stuff, and I'd like to think I am somewhat skilled and covered all my bases. Just a sampling of responses I got after Google sharing my pictures and videos to Grom when they asked me to recheck the video connector because they suspected the video cable was "knocked loose":

• "Did you tag the reverse wire during the install?" [2 of the pictures I sent clearly show the positap, and I have demonstrated the reverse triggering on at least 2 videos, as the display flickers and changes to a different black.]
• "if the factory screen is not working and the Vline interface is, it's always a connector as the factory screen passes through the Vline." [But did not offer to send me a new video cable, unless he meant the video port on my radio/nav unit.]

Kinda reminds me of the silly back and forth Ira had to go through with their technical support regarding "your car doesn't have cameras."

I am close to calling it quits and returning the thing. Either I go with NavTool, or I just use Android Auto on my phone while mounted on the windshield. My reason for choosing Grom over NavTool is because NavTool's main harness has several RCA plugs for aftermarket cameras. Our RLX doesn't need that, but NavTool makes that harness universal, so they are included. That means more space needed, and more chance of rattling inside the dash. (Have I mentioned I hate rattles?)

Initially all my responses from Grom has been from Heath or unsigned, but today I got Dmitry. Hoping the situation will get better. Maybe like James, they will send me replacement video cable because the first cable is bad, or maybe they will send me replacement VLine module because something is wrong with it. I don't know how much patience I have left in removing and reinstalling the radio/nav unit. I'm so used to one-and-done when installing Bluetooth or video aux in all my past cars that this is starting to test my patience. LOL I want to start driving my car and enjoy it. Not dealing with removing the radio/nav unit. The more I do it, the higher the chance I'll scratch one of my trims.

 

I understand your frustration. I wouldn't want to rip up my dash and have things not working. When I did my install, I made sure to test all functions before I put dash trim back. I can assure you GROM VL2 does work in our 2020 RLX. I too took a gamble when I ordered VL2. I knew GROM hasn't worked out all the bugs yet, but fortunately for me, I experienced no major issues. TBH, no product out there is going to be bug-free. Android is a complex system, heck even Google is constantly releasing bug-fixes for their Pixel phones. I don't expect VL2 to be perfect, it's really a hack. It is working well enough for me at the moment but I expect bugs to creep up in the future. GROM is usually very fast at releasing fixes. I get firmware and software update on a regular basis so I know I'm well supported into the future. That is until they release VL3, but I haven't heard any news about new hardware.

I'd suggest you give GROM some time to troubleshoot. It may take a few days of back and forth until they narrow down your issue. They're not going to send out replacement units at first contact, that is understandable that they go thru basic troubleshooting steps with you first. Have you asked them procedure to reflash firmware? If you're 100% your connections are good, I'd try reflash next. If after all steps are done and you're still having issues then request a RMA. I'd send everything back because you don't know if you're having cable issues or if your VL2 unit is bad. I personally would not touch NavTool. They're ban from this forum for posting fake reviews. Can you really trust a vendor that do that kind of shenanigan? Plus their cable harness is a mess, just looking at their install video, I was turn-off immediately. Good luck with whatever you decide to do. I know $600 is not easy pill to swallow for some people if it doesn't work as advertised.

 

I asked about reflash yesterday, and whoever replied didn't answer me nor acknowledge the question. They did mention a reset is not necessary. I'd like for them to send me replacement wires and/or unit before I go the RMA route, because then I'd have to pay for return shipping, and I only have 30 days. Silly me for ordering the device before taking delivery of the RLX. That's a week eaten out of the 30 days.

As for whether I am 100% sure my connections are good... It's only the video connection. And... What else can I possibly check to ensure the connection is good besides verifying that the plug is already inserted all the way in and clicked and locked, and on top of that unplugging and replugging in? I am not going to the extend of taking out Grom's Y-video cable and testing the custom molex pins like what James did. I mean, I can, but I don't want to. Where does that leave me? Asking for another cable? What if the custom molex plug side isn't the problem, but the DP plug itself? Or what if the VLine module itself is bad where the DP connector is not properly soldered onto the board? I mean, they sent James a module without the microphone connector soldered onto the board. They provided bad cables claiming it was bent. Those alone scream quality assurance problems to me. I don't want to give them a bad review just yet, but I'd also like to see meaningful troubleshooting with progress. All of the questions they asked were already answered in all the videos and pictures I sent them previously. I feel like they're just asking me canned questions without even reviewing the pictures and videos I sent.

And last evening when I was rechecking the video cable connection and reseating it, I did test it without putting the vents and controller panel back on.

 

I really appreciate you posting all of this. It is giving me pause to purchase the GROM right now. I pulled the USB cord to my iPhone and instead plugged in my car charger cable to the outlet inside of the console. I use a WeatherTech car phone holder in the cupholder for the phone. So far using the BlueTooth function for Pandora and my my iPod music is working much smoother. For me this option will work. I remind myself my sister last year paid more money for her factory ordered 4 cylinder Mercedes C300 than I paid for this heavily discounted brand new RLX. I knew upfront the RLX infotainment system was dated, albeit still frustrating. The Mercedes infotainment (and she paid extra for a premium system) has its own deficiencies too.

I like this guys car reviews and fully agree with him on tech and future cost headaches.This You Tube video was posted on the Corvette C8 forum. Normally I have little concern owning a car until near 200k miles. I have AcuraCare extended warranty to 120k miles (for me about 4 years). I will most likely trade this car just shy of the 120k mile mark. Maybe by then Acura will have the upcoming V6 TLX S-Type perfected!

 

I myself have a 2020 RLX SH SHAWD GILDED

I have been watching all posts for comments on the GROM Audio product and have heard far too many complaints to hand over 600 $ to them for a big ole headache and in the process possibly scuff or damage interior parts trying to install this buggy hardware.

Ive communicated with them about the issues I have read about and conveyed that many potential customers are sitting on the sidelines watching how GROM handles each one of these customers’ issues.

I plan on buying only when I begin to see more good stories than bad AND when they enable Android Auto wireless.

Best of luck to you all.

 

Wireless Android Auto was never promised by GROM and it may never be supported. I'm not sure what the hold-up is, maybe they're waiting on certification by Google, but if that process costs GROM $$$, I doubt they would add this feature. Each time I ask GROM about it, they always said they have no ETA. I don't really mind plugging in my phone. It only take a second when getting into the car and it charges my phone too. Wireless would be nice of shorter trips. Know that VL2 is a hack and as such it will never be bug-free. This unit is for people who aren't afraid to tinker with Android if things goes awry. I've been using Android since inception. I'm comfortable with flashing Roms and know my way around Android. If you are the kind who expect perfection out of this product, I recommend you stay away. IMO most of the complaints you heard are because of installation errors. Some people skip the very important first initialization step leading to issues down the road. Granted, GROM has been known to send out poorly soldered or damaged cables in the past. I would hope they remedy that situation by now. It seems like luck of the draw. Some, like me, get perfectly working units, while others have issues. I really do believe if OP get RMA for another unit, he would get it working.

About removing trim panels in the RLX, it is extremely easy. On scale of 1-10, I would give it a 2. Don't be afraid to remove trims. Honda designed the trims very solidly. I took my time and mostly used my fingers. No damage was done and no broken trim pieces. The only hard part of installation, at least for me, is routing the wire harness as you don't have a lot of room to work with behind the radio. If you're not comfortable doing this, a pro at any stereo shop can do it under 90 minutes flat.

Keep an eye out of discount codes. GROM rarely issue codes, but usually around major holidays they do. I got both my of VL2 units on discount. And now since I'm a "frequent buyer", GROM gave me another code to use for a 3rd discounted VL2 if I want. Some people have successfully received discounts by simply asking. I realize $600 is not easy money for some people. For me, GROM is the only player in town for our RLX. I won't even consider NavTool for shenanigans they've pull in this forum (fake reviews) plus their cable harness is a mess. GROM VL2 have made my #1 complaint about the RLX (poor infotainment) a non-issue. Now only if I can upgrade to get adaptive suspension

 

JPData

Its a $600 expenditure......a car payment for another vehicle in exchange for a device with lousy support and bugs.

If they get their act together and show brand dignity and reliability, then they deserve the 600$.

Yeah. It’s an opinion. If it’s popular, they will go out of business. If it’s not, they will continue on the path toward excellence because they can keep cash flow to be able to get customers involved in the troubleshooting process to perfect their product. My schedule does not allow anywhere near that amount of time to help them out.

I do appreciate your point of view though.