Limp mode 2019 A-Spec

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Old 06-11-2019, 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by robnalex
Maybe a little drizzle- it had been raining off and on during the preceding days. The temperature was probably around 70 degrees. The car was in Sport/Drive. I don't know if ACC and/or LKAS were active.
How long were you driving before?
Old 06-11-2019, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by KK689
How long were you driving before?
At least 30-40 minutes.
Old 06-11-2019, 10:38 AM
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The only time this “limp mode” occurs is after extended driving in humid or rainy conditions and you give the car 75% of throttle or more. If it is dry outside.. you can drive hours with the car.
My car has been at several different dealers because it breaks down in different places. My local dealership the last time performed an update to ECU. They didn’t provide much information about it. I just don’t believe it’s fixed. Acura has told me time and time again that nothing abnormal is wrong with my car... despite the repeated stored codes
Old 06-11-2019, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by KK689
The only time this “limp mode” occurs is after extended driving in humid or rainy conditions and you give the car 75% of throttle or more. If it is dry outside.. you can drive hours with the car.
If this is true, the odds of my dealer duplicating it are increased, as it's been extremely humid and rainy here.
Old 06-12-2019, 08:16 AM
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Our RDX was at the Dealer Service Dept. yesterday. Unfortunately, no codes were stored. Any codes were likely temporary and cleared after a number of restarts. The Shop Foreman, who has been with this dealership for 33 years and is Master Tech Certified, called me and we had a long conversation about the conditions at the time of this event. He called Honda in California and got little help from them. He was not able to induce "limp mode" on his test drive. I have complete confidence in the shop at my Acura Dealer (they've been taking care of my 2001 CL for 19 years!) but at this point, they have nothing to work with. Our plan is to get the car to them a.s.a.p. if it happens again and hope that they can find an event code that might shed some light on the situation.
Old 06-12-2019, 08:21 AM
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I know this is inconvenient but have the car towed next time. Acura foots the bill and the car stays misfiring the entire time it’s on the side of the interstate waiting for the tow truck. Chances are it’ll store 😂

They refunded me my hotel, gas, and rental car the first time it happened. It was a Sunday afternoon with no one open except the local airport rental car counter.
Old 06-12-2019, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by robnalex
Our RDX was at the Dealer Service Dept. yesterday. Unfortunately, no codes were stored. Any codes were likely temporary and cleared after a number of restarts. The Shop Foreman, who has been with this dealership for 33 years and is Master Tech Certified, called me and we had a long conversation about the conditions at the time of this event. He called Honda in California and got little help from them. He was not able to induce "limp mode" on his test drive. I have complete confidence in the shop at my Acura Dealer (they've been taking care of my 2001 CL for 19 years!) but at this point, they have nothing to work with. Our plan is to get the car to them a.s.a.p. if it happens again and hope that they can find an event code that might shed some light on the situation.
Make sure you file a complaint at http://nhtsa.gov. Might take outside pressure to get Acura to do anything if they keep using lack of codes as an excuse not to solve a dangerous issue.
Old 06-12-2019, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by robnalex
Our RDX was at the Dealer Service Dept. yesterday. Unfortunately, no codes were stored. Any codes were likely temporary and cleared after a number of restarts. The Shop Foreman, who has been with this dealership for 33 years and is Master Tech Certified, called me and we had a long conversation about the conditions at the time of this event. He called Honda in California and got little help from them. He was not able to induce "limp mode" on his test drive. I have complete confidence in the shop at my Acura Dealer (they've been taking care of my 2001 CL for 19 years!) but at this point, they have nothing to work with. Our plan is to get the car to them a.s.a.p. if it happens again and hope that they can find an event code that might shed some light on the situation.

Glad you have competent and understanding Tech's...my dealership told me "there is no such thing - never heard of that happening", and told me they did not believe me that the car stalled and went into limp mode. They are a piece of work to say the least...
Old 06-12-2019, 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by van mccarty
Glad you have competent and understanding Tech's...my dealership told me "there is no such thing - never heard of that happening", and told me they did not believe me that the car stalled and went into limp mode. They are a piece of work to say the least...
That would be my last visit to that service department.
Old 06-12-2019, 04:37 PM
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Limp mode

Can we isolate this problem to build date. I’m about to pull the trigger on a 2020 A-Spec but this is concerning....
Old 06-12-2019, 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Luchin
Can we isolate this problem to build date. I’m about to pull the trigger on a 2020 A-Spec but this is concerning....
FWIW, our build date is 01/19. Not to discount the seriousness of this issue, but keep in mind that this thread has been open for almost a year and the number of reports of this issue is small compared to the number of RDX's sold. I've googled using various search criteria and have found very little except for the relatively small number of NHSA reports. Clearly, most dealer's shops have little or no experience with this issue. Is it an issue that concerns me and diminishes my overall confidence in the RDX? Absolutely. Would it stop me from purchasing if I'd seen this thread prior to purchasing? Probably not. However, until the cause and fix is identified I have no intention of putting the pedal to the floor in this car unless I've got an unobstructed straightaway with no traffic.
Old 06-21-2019, 09:24 PM
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Unhappy 2019 Acura RDX-MIL blinking help

I chose to floor my acura RDX today but up till the 6k rpm mark and then I suddenly got a blinking ECL on my dashboard. I pulled to the side and restarted my car. Note that the car only has about 2k miles on it and I have recently got it 3 months ago. I started driving it to work after restarting the car since I would be late to work. Was the misfire my fault? and would it be covered under warranty?
Old 06-29-2019, 08:22 AM
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Thought I'd give an update (not much to report) and a bump to this thread. I haven't had a 2nd occurrence, but haven't had a damp/rainy day to give it a test. I did open a case with Acura, which they investigated and closed. At least I've provided an additional statistic re this issue. Perhaps the lack of activity in this thread indicates that those of us who've experienced this are in the minority- which is a good thing. @KK689 You mentioned in another thread that you've initiated a lawsuit with Acura over this. How's that going?
Old 06-29-2019, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by robnalex
Thought I'd give an update (not much to report) and a bump to this thread. I haven't had a 2nd occurrence, but haven't had a damp/rainy day to give it a test. I did open a case with Acura, which they investigated and closed. At least I've provided an additional statistic re this issue. Perhaps the lack of activity in this thread indicates that those of us who've experienced this are in the minority- which is a good thing. @KK689 You mentioned in another thread that you've initiated a lawsuit with Acura over this. How's that going?

I have a 2019 RDX A-SPEC that I bought in February. On Thursday morning I got off the highway after driving approximately 40 minutes and stopped at a stop light. The light turned green and I moderately accelerated. All of a sudden it felt like a mild transmission slip and I heard a loud bang. Car immediately went into limp mode and check engine light was flashing any time I put my foot on the gas. I drove it about 3 miles like that, cel flashing. The light NEVER went solid and when I let off the gas, turned off completely. When I got home, I emptied the car and hooked up my code reader to see if anything was stored. I pulled pending codes for cylinder 1 and 4 misfire, multiple cylinder misfire, as well as a c1555. The tow truck driver couldn't figure out how to keep it in neutral even though it said right on the screen and turned the car on and off several times until I told him to get out of my car and I would put it in neutral... The vehicle got to the shop and I get a phone call saying that they took my car for a drive and that there was no check engine light and the car was driving fine and they were going to get it into the shop. I get a call later on that day. No codes were stored, vehicle is running fine, and they can't find anything wrong. My car has 8k miles on it now (I drive a lot of highway miles). The advisor has driven it for 2 days and nothing has duplicated my concern. I'm so frustrated... Last week at the same exact light, same scenario, I accelerated and the car went up to 4k rpms and stuck there. Wouldn't shift, wouldn't accelerate, nothing. I had to let my foot off the gas and coast for about 10 seconds until it finally shifted into a higher gear and then it was fine. A few months back I hit the gas trying to accelerate and the vehicle did nothing. Didn't respond, as if I hadn't pressed the gas at all. I hit the gas 3 more times trying to accelerate and nothing. Finally the 4th time it acted normal... All the times it didn't react at all, the pedal was to the floor. This is a major safety issue on this car. I don't feel comfortable driving it anymore... I can't Wonder when it's going to cut out as I'm pulling into traffic and get hit and possibly killed... I won't even start with the "unduplicatible" transmission issues...
Old 06-29-2019, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by BCHPLZ_rdx
The light turned green and I moderately accelerated. All of a sudden it felt like a mild transmission slip and I heard a loud bang. Car immediately went into limp mode and check engine light was flashing any time I put my foot on the gas. I drove it about 3 miles like that, cel flashing. The light NEVER went solid and when I let off the gas, turned off completely. ... Last week at the same exact light, same scenario, I accelerated and the car went up to 4k rpms and stuck there. Wouldn't shift, wouldn't accelerate, nothing. I had to let my foot off the gas and coast for about 10 seconds until it finally shifted into a higher gear and then it was fine. A few months back I hit the gas trying to accelerate and the vehicle did nothing. Didn't respond, as if I hadn't pressed the gas at all. I hit the gas 3 more times trying to accelerate and nothing. Finally the 4th time it acted normal... All the times it didn't react at all, the pedal was to the floor.
Thanks for posting. While the issues you describe may be related, they're different than what I and others in this thread have experienced: Engine going into limp mode on hard acceleration, no transmission slip or loud bang, just near total loss of power. In any case, keep us posted. What are your plans? Back to the dealer shop? These are serious issues. If it were me, I'd be raising holy hell.
Old 06-29-2019, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by robnalex
Thanks for posting. While the issues you describe may be related, they're different than what I and others in this thread have experienced: Engine going into limp mode on hard acceleration, no transmission slip or loud bang, just near total loss of power. In any case, keep us posted. What are your plans? Back to the dealer shop? These are serious issues. If it were me, I'd be raising holy hell.
I'm not sure if it's related or not but it's pretty much what other people are describing. I honestly think it went into limp mode and misfired right as it was shifting which would have caused a harsh shift possibly. I had my car towed 2.5 hours to the dealership that I bought it from. I'm so frustrated and disappointed. I'm a service advisor for a Honda dealership so I get the not being able to duplicate, I just don't know what to do from here. It's not the shops fault but I want it fixed. This will be the second time in 4 months that I have to get a ride 2.5 hours to pick up my car that there was "nothing wrong with".
Old 06-29-2019, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by robnalex
Thought I'd give an update (not much to report) and a bump to this thread. I haven't had a 2nd occurrence, but haven't had a damp/rainy day to give it a test. I did open a case with Acura, which they investigated and closed. At least I've provided an additional statistic re this issue. Perhaps the lack of activity in this thread indicates that those of us who've experienced this are in the minority- which is a good thing. @KK689 You mentioned in another thread that you've initiated a lawsuit with Acura over this. How's that going?
Its going along for sure. Lawyer doesn’t have any doubts about winning. Honda drags their feet with cases like this my lawyer was telling me. They wait til the last second to make an offer. I’d recommend everyone to do this! Hit them where it hurts... their wallet
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Old 06-29-2019, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by BCHPLZ_rdx
I'm not sure if it's related or not but it's pretty much what other people are describing. I honestly think it went into limp mode and misfired right as it was shifting which would have caused a harsh shift possibly. I had my car towed 2.5 hours to the dealership that I bought it from. I'm so frustrated and disappointed. I'm a service advisor for a Honda dealership so I get the not being able to duplicate, I just don't know what to do from here. It's not the shops fault but I want it fixed. This will be the second time in 4 months that I have to get a ride 2.5 hours to pick up my car that there was "nothing wrong with".
I assume you shared the codes you got with the dealer shop? They just shrugged it off? At the least, I would open a ticket with Acura. Have you talked with the shop foreman at your Honda Dealer? Maybe he/she would have a clue. The Accord 2.0 ten-speed shares the same engine with the RDX and there have been similar reports from Accord owners.
Old 06-29-2019, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by robnalex
I assume you shared the codes you got with the dealer shop? They just shrugged it off? At the least, I would open a ticket with Acura. Have you talked with the shop foreman at your Honda Dealer? Maybe he/she would have a clue. The Accord 2.0 ten-speed shares the same engine with the RDX and there have been similar reports from Accord owners.
I did share the codes with the dealership that has my car currently as well as a video I took of what it was doing while on the phone with roadside assistance. They said they can't do anything with it since there's no codes currently there... If I open a ticket with Acura won't that get the shop in trouble? I haven't asked my shop foreman yet but I will on Monday. We have limited access to acura programming.
Old 06-29-2019, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by BCHPLZ_rdx
I'm not sure if it's related or not but it's pretty much what other people are describing. I honestly think it went into limp mode and misfired right as it was shifting which would have caused a harsh shift possibly. I had my car towed 2.5 hours to the dealership that I bought it from. I'm so frustrated and disappointed. I'm a service advisor for a Honda dealership so I get the not being able to duplicate, I just don't know what to do from here. It's not the shops fault but I want it fixed. This will be the second time in 4 months that I have to get a ride 2.5 hours to pick up my car that there was "nothing wrong with".
Buy a OBD reader and leave it plugged in. I had one for my car and I would screen shot the codes and give it to the dealer It’s crazy because my car has stored codes 4 out of 5 times.
Old 06-29-2019, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by KK689
Buy a OBD reader and leave it plugged in. I had one for my car and I would screen shot the codes and give it to the dealer It’s crazy because my car has stored codes 4 out of 5 times.
I did exactly that... Is there any sort of code reader that'll record engine management systems while it's running and take a snap shot?
Old 06-29-2019, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by BCHPLZ_rdx
I did share the codes with the dealership that has my car currently as well as a video I took of what it was doing while on the phone with roadside assistance. They said they can't do anything with it since there's no codes currently there... If I open a ticket with Acura won't that get the shop in trouble? I haven't asked my shop foreman yet but I will on Monday. We have limited access to acura programming.
FWIW, I have high confidence in my Acura Dealer's shop, particularly the shop Foreman, who has been with the dealer for 30+ years. He called Honda about the issue himself. When the Client Relations Rep contacted me, I made it very clear that I had no complaint with the Dealer's Service Department. Acura needs to know this stuff is happening, and I want a recorded history with them going forward if the issue persists.
Old 07-01-2019, 12:15 AM
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New here to the forum as I just picked up my 2020 Platinum Elite. Everything in this thread (limp mode in high humidity situation) sounds like the same issue that happened to the Ford F-150 (2002-2005) with Ecoboost v6 turbo which led to a massive recall. Basically condensation was forming in the intercooler which led to moisture being sent into the engine and leading to misfiring (and potentially cracking the spark plugs). Have the dealership check the spark plugs when they bring the vehicle in.

Google “f-150 intercooler limp mode” for videos and fixes.. Ford never really fixed this issue as it was a design flaw and the recall never truly fixed the problem. Apparently drilling a hole at the bottom of the intercooler was the best fix.
Old 07-01-2019, 12:58 AM
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Sorry a couple of typos in the last post. The years should be 2011-2013 Ford F-150s. Also there was no recall but a TSB was issued by Ford.

More detail is in here: https://www.torquenews.com/106/feds-...-investigation

NHTSA Action Number: PE13018

Components ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING, ENGINE

Opened From: May 22, 2013–April 7, 2014

Summary

On May 22, 2013, the Office of Defects Investigation (ODI) opened PE13-018 to investigate 95 complaints alleging incidents of reduced engine power during hard accelerations in model year (MY) 2011 through 2013 Ford F-150 trucks. ODI was aware of three technical service bulletins (TSBs) issued by Ford for a condition that was related to moisture accumulation in the Charge Air Cooler (CAC) for the turbochargers. A Preliminary Evaluation was opened to gather information to assess whether the subject vehicles contain a safety related defect.

The subject vehicles are powered by Ford’s 3.5L EcoBoost engine which uses twin turbochargers to obtain a balance of fuel economy and engine power based on the driver’s demand. When the driver requests more power from the engine, as in accelerating to pass, merge, ascend hills or haul a load the two turbochargers will spin up compressing the air which is then used to increase the power created by the combustion in the engine. The compressed air, which gains heat by the compression process, is passed through a Charge Air Cooler (CAC) which is designed to lower the temperature of the air in order to make the combustion process even more efficient (Figures 1 and 2).

In response to ODI’s Information Request letter, Ford indicated that a misfire condition could occur after steady-speed operation under significantly humid and rainy conditions. Ford’s analysis found that under those conditions, condensation could form and accumulate on the inside of the CAC tubes which could then be ingested into the engine during particularly hard acceleration near wide-open throttle. An engine misfire of up to three cylinders could occur if the amount of condensed water released from the CAC exceeded the engine’s operating threshold for water ingestion. Ford noted that due to regulations set by the EPA, the powertrain software would disable up to two of the misfiring cylinders for no more than 30 seconds and until the driver tips out the throttle in order to protect the catalytic converter from damage.

Ford’s testing of this condition on the subject vehicles showed that a vehicle experiencing such a condition would continue to maintain its speed as well as accelerate, albeit at a lower rate than expected by the driver. Similar results were obtained in testing done by NHTSA’s Vehicle Research and Testing Center in East Liberty, Ohio (Figure 6). In an ongoing process to address the problem Ford issued a series of TSBs where a deflector shield was installed onto the CAC (Figures 3, 4 and 5). In January 2014 Ford indicated that its data shows that the TSBs have been effective in resolving the problem, that for the MY 2013 vehicles their remedy is 100% effective and the latest TSBs for MY 2011 – 2012 are 95% effective.

The 525 complaints to ODI and the total 4,120 unique VIN complaints listed in the Failure Report are incidents of alleged reduced power or driveability symptoms and not all are necessarily related to the condition created by water ingestion. Reduced power conditions can occur for a variety of reasons including faults with ignition coils, spark plugs, a catalytic converter, the throttle body, turbocharger, fuel pump/filter, powertrain control module (hardware or software) or transmission shifting problems. Ford also noted that in a large number of warranty claims on the subject vehicles, the CAC was replaced or a TSB procedure was performed when the symptoms exhibited were inconsistent with a CAC water ingestion related issue.

Given these circumstances, further use of the agency resources in this matter does not appear to be warranted. Accordingly, this investigation is closed. The closing of this investigation does not constitute a finding by NHTSA that a safety-related defect does not exist. The agency will continue to monitor complaints and other information relating to the alleged defect and take further action in the future if warranted.
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Old 07-01-2019, 08:56 AM
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Hey Blu2, if you are Canadian and not already a member of the 3rd Gen RDX Canadian Group, you should consider joining us at > https://www.facebook.com/groups/RDX3rdGenCanada/
Old 07-03-2019, 02:09 PM
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I know it's been said, but can't be said enough: If you've experienced this issue, PLEASE take a few minutes and file a safety complaint at https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/
Old 07-04-2019, 08:23 AM
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Had the same problem. It is scary when it happens while you are driving.

To be honest I didn't even know what limp mode was. Came acorss a good article that explains the most common limp mode problems in detail.

I plan on getting a scanner and reading the codes myself before I take it to the dealer.
Old 07-04-2019, 08:45 AM
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I've thought about getting a scanner, but I haven't been able to induce a second episode. Others have posted that even after getting codes their dealer/service did pretty much nothing. Others have shared that the issue occurs mostly during damp and/or rainy conditions. It's been humid here, but not much rain. When we have a rainy stretch I'll see if I can induce engine impotence and let my dealer/service have another crack at it. Based on 20 years with this dealer/service dept., I expect they'll take a more aggressive approach if we can get some codes.
Old 07-11-2019, 09:40 PM
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I just bought a new 2019 RDX Aspec last Friday, and it only has about 500 miles on it. I was driving home tonight and went about 60mph to pass a car and my car completely lost power. I tried pressing the accelerator and I had absolutely no response. My check engine light started flashing. Fortunately, there was a police officer who was able to guide me to the shoulder.

I restarted the car and the engine light was gone and I was able to drive off. However, the car still does not seem to have a full throttle response and the RPM is staying at about 3500 in Normal mode. The Auto-Disable Engine feature is also not working anymore.

It had rained earlier in the day but it was not raining at this point but the roads were wet. I had been driving for about 30 minutes continuously before this at about 60mph.

My car was inspected on July 3rd, 2019 for Virginia state inspection. Build date on the car is April 2019 and assembled at East Liberty, Ohio USA
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Old 07-12-2019, 06:03 AM
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Yep. Seems to be a common and potentially deadly problem. And , yes, the dealers don’t know what to do about it.
I was hoping it was for earlier builds (2018), but mine ( build Feb 2019) has done it three times in 2.5 months and 1800 miles. But has not done it in 3 weeks. So I don’t k ow. Definitely a problem Acura is avoiding.
Old 07-12-2019, 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Sheikh_Har
I just bought a new 2019 RDX Aspec last Friday, and it only has about 500 miles on it. I was driving home tonight and went about 60mph to pass a car and my car completely lost power. I tried pressing the accelerator and I had absolutely no response. My check engine light started flashing. Fortunately, there was a police officer who was able to guide me to the shoulder.

I restarted the car and the engine light was gone and I was able to drive off. However, the car still does not seem to have a full throttle response and the RPM is staying at about 3500 in Normal mode. The Auto-Disable Engine feature is also not working anymore.

It had rained earlier in the day but it was not raining at this point but the roads were wet. I had been driving for about 30 minutes continuously before this at about 60mph.

My car was inspected on July 3rd, 2019 for Virginia state inspection. Build date on the car is April 2019 and assembled at East Liberty, Ohio USA

Update: Took it to Acura. They said it was a Cylinder 1 misfire. Nothing they can do to fix it. Apparently Acura Engineers are working on a software patch. It seems humidity caused by summer rains screws some sensor readings leading to a misfire. We most likely won’t see a fix until someone gets in a bad accident due to bad software.

Old 07-12-2019, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Sheikh_Har
Update: Took it to Acura. They said it was a Cylinder 1 misfire. Nothing they can do to fix it. Apparently Acura Engineers are working on a software patch. It seems humidity caused by summer rains screws some sensor readings leading to a misfire. We most likely won’t see a fix until someone gets in a bad accident due to bad software.
Interesting...when mine has failed (CA Central Coast) about NO humidity or wet conditions. Still seems odd...
Old 07-13-2019, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by van mccarty
Interesting...when mine has failed (CA Central Coast) about NO humidity or wet conditions. Still seems odd...
Overall seems like bad sensor condition triggers it, could be due to the air being compressed
Old 07-15-2019, 05:20 PM
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I joined the ranks today. Difference being I was doing 20-30mph through a turn. Accelerated at 2000-3000 rpm and had the issue. Loss of power and all the error lights lit. Took to dealership and they said was a blown charge tube for my intercooler. Fixing currently.
Old 07-15-2019, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by markm929
I joined the ranks today. Difference being I was doing 20-30mph through a turn. Accelerated at 2000-3000 rpm and had the issue. Loss of power and all the error lights lit. Took to dealership and they said was a blown charge tube for my intercooler. Fixing currently.
it is un nerving and leaves me with ZERO confidence driving this vehicle...:-(
Old 07-15-2019, 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by markm929
I joined the ranks today. Difference being I was doing 20-30mph through a turn. Accelerated at 2000-3000 rpm and had the issue. Loss of power and all the error lights lit. Took to dealership and they said was a blown charge tube for my intercooler. Fixing currently.
UPDATE:

So the mechanic said apparently the charge pipe is secured on with a screw clamp torqued to 29 N-m at the factory, but should be 28 N-m. That 1 N-m makes all the difference in how the connection seats, which leads to the charge pipe being able to separate from its connection while under boost. This can happen over time.

Mine is all fixed and runs like it did before the Limp mode. Should things change…I'll report back.
Old 07-16-2019, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by markm929
UPDATE:

So the mechanic said apparently the charge pipe is secured on with a screw clamp torqued to 29 N-m at the factory, but should be 28 N-m. That 1 N-m makes all the difference in how the connection seats, which leads to the charge pipe being able to separate from its connection while under boost. This can happen over time.

Mine is all fixed and runs like it did before the Limp mode. Should things change…I'll report back.
Hahaha!!!

I bet the accuracy and repeatability of his torque wrench is worse than 1 N-m.

Oh, and 29 N-m is tighter than 28 N-m. A tighter connection is less likely to separate, although too tight will crack plastic or strip the clamp.

Dealers will just say anything for any reason to make people go away.
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Old 07-16-2019, 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by zroger73
Hahaha!!!

I bet the accuracy and repeatability of his torque wrench is worse than 1 N-m.

Oh, and 29 N-m is tighter than 28 N-m. A tighter connection is less likely to separate, although too tight will crack plastic or strip the clamp.

Dealers will just say anything for any reason to make people go away.
I understand the value of torque. Being greater it actually caused the rubber pipe to flare out allowing it to move off the plastic connection over time. Umm and this was told to me by the service guy after the repair was made, not prior to. Needless to say, the charge pipe separated from the intercooler and need to be reconnected which was the cause of the limp mode, for me. You may have serious issues with your dealership/service department but my guys have never given me a reason to question them. Have a good day.
Old 07-16-2019, 09:24 PM
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I think the mechanic just gave you a reason to question him and you don't realize it...lol. I don't think his tools are that accurate or precise to even know if he's consistently getting torque values that are within .74 foot pounds of each other. The pipe might have been disconnected but the reason he gave you doesn't make any sense.

1 newton meter = 0.7376 foot pounds


28 Nm = 20.651740915945 ft-lb

29 Nm = 21.389303091514 ft-lb
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Old 07-17-2019, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by skarface
I think the mechanic just gave you a reason to question him and you don't realize it...lol. I don't think his tools are that accurate or precise to even know if he's consistently getting torque values that are within .74 foot pounds of each other. The pipe might have been disconnected but the reason he gave you doesn't make any sense.

1 newton meter = 0.7376 foot pounds


28 Nm = 20.651740915945 ft-lb

29 Nm = 21.389303091514 ft-lb
Thanks for the physics refresher.

I didn't question anybody, they provided the explanation without any request from me. In fact, the mechanic came out from the garage to explain on his own when he had completed the repair. Typically I don't see a mechanic when in for a repair service, the front end guys handle all the talking.

Again, if your Dealership/service dept are flip flam artists I am sorry to hear that, but mine has never given me a reason to doubt them.

In the end, the reason for my Limp mode issue was that the intercooler charge pipe disconnected and I wanted to pass that along, as most people on here don't seem to find a reason for theirs.

I am sorry that sharing my experience on this thread has caused such distress for some. I have nothing left to say on the topic other than...

Have a good day.
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JB in AZ (07-17-2019)


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