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1-1/4 to 2" adapter should be fine except maybe for long heavily loaded platform style hitches. I'm not sure I'll try my Thule T2 2+2 setup. 2-bikes should be fine.
Mind if I ask why? Being able to use a platform style for four bikes is huge factor for me (that and no mapping of touchpad to Apple Car play). Is it because of weight or total length sticking out from back?
Mind if I ask why? Being able to use a platform style for four bikes is huge factor for me (that and no mapping of touchpad to Apple Car play). Is it because of weight or total length sticking out from back?
Because of the torque load on the hitch, so both weight ( rack and bikes ) and how far it sticks out. I have a Thule T2 ( Classic ) with the add-on 2-bike attachment. The thing is solid American steel, like the SportWorks design Thule bought.
I'm not sure if the OEM hitch is Class I or Class II, but Thule doesn't recommend use of any of their 4-bike platform racks with a 1.25" hitch.
A "hanging style" rack would probably be fine, because it doesn't extend as far behind the vehicle.
I use a Saris Thelma two-bike platform on the RDX with OEM hitch and a 1.25-2" adapter, without issue.
Any platform rack would be fine on the 2" Class III DrawTite aftermarket hitch. There could be a problem with ground clearance, especially at sharp vertical transitions, but that could probably be resolved with an 2" raised adapter.
We got our 2020 RDX Advanced last week and I need to get the hitch components ordered. The on line parts catalogs are not showing the 2020 model yet. Can anyone confirm the exact same part numbers as are needed for adding a hitch to a 2020 Advanced as a 2019 Advanced?
I can't confirm part numbers for 2020 Advance, but in case they haven't changed the packaging for the replacement bumper trim panel, do NOT whip out the razor knife and slice open the tape on the box, or you will end up with a very nice clean scribe line across the middle of the panel.
The Acura hitch and wiring are installed and my hitch attachments are converted to 1-¼”. Here are some details of my journey:
i really wanted to stick with a 2” receiver since all my attachments were that size. I took a chance and ordered the Drawtite hitch and partially installed it. It really looked terrible. It’s below the fascia panel and sticks out to the back a long ways. The challenge is the hitch needs to be behind the spare tire. I could not get the hands free tailgate opener to work with it there. I decided to return it and spend the $ for the Acura hitch and wiring. This also meant switching to 1-¼” attachments.
I ordered the four parts needed for hitch and wiring for an Advanced model. Installing the new fascia with hands free sensor was pretty straightforward. The hitch itself was easy to install.
I was a bit reluctant to open the interior upholstery panels to access the wiring but it also went pretty well. Like previously posted here it is not necessary to remove as many panels as instructed. If Acura would extend the built in harness by about a foot it could be located below the upholstery panel and the job would be very easy.
One complaint about the wiring is the bracket and location of the 4 pin trailer light connector. It is supposed to be located below and to the right if the trailer safety chain loop. It looks bad there. So far I have left it tucked up between the fascia and the spare tire. When I need it I’ll pull it out or plug a temporary extension on it. It’s not ideal and I am still contemplating a better solution.
I have three attachments to deal with. I bought the short Curt cat 1 trailer hitch drawbar. It was longer than necessary so I carefully drilled a second ½” hole 1-⅛” farther back allowing the drawbar to go that much farther into the receiver. Now the welded on part of the drawbar is about ¼” outside the end of the receiver. Shorter is better since it shortens the moment arm of the vertical load. I have a Yakima bike rack and spent the money for the 1-¼” adapter for it. I also have a hitch carrier that’s convenient for light hauling of things I don’t want inside and do not need a trailer. It’s aluminum so it’s light to start with. I bought a longer Curt Cat 1 drawbar, replaced the long square tube under the hitch carrier with a shorter aluminum tube, and the bolted the drawbar to the bottom of the aluminum tube.
I really waiting till CURT come up for 2019 RDX, it looks like their design they have for CRV much better than Drawtite, not sticking out too much and bit hidden..
I installed the factory hitch on my 2019 RDX Advance this week & it took about 2.5 hours. Most of that was the careful disassembly/reassembly of the cargo area trim to install the wiring harness. Yes, the directions are confusing, mainly because they try to cover every combination of hitch/handsfree kit/factory handsfree in the same instruction order. It becomes a bit of a "choose you own adventure" story but you can figure it out if you do your reading ahead of time. I chose to keep the harness zipped to the hitch behind the bumper rather than use the metal attachment that puts it next to the receiver. I think it looks cleaner & I won't need it that often.
I had Acura install the Hitch on my 19 RDX AWD Tech. I didn't have them do the wiring harness as I don't plan on hauling much other than a platform bike rack. With that said, I have a few questions. I'm pretty ticked off in that they didn't explain how awfully short of a distance there is from the end of the receiver to the pin hole. It's less than an inch. I would argue that it's semi-proprietary, even for a Class 1 Hitch. I bought a Thule rack the same day I had the hitch installed (while I waited for installation). I didn't get to see the receiver and pin-hole ahead of time. Apparently for the T2 Pro XT, and pretty much all their racks, one needs a minimum of 1.5 inches from the receiver end to the pin hole. Thus, this rack was a non starter. Had to return it. I had purchased the 1.25 inch version to go with the receiver. I should have gone with the Etrailer.com in the first place!
1) Has anyone used the 1.25 to 2 inch adapter by chance for a platform rack like the Thule or Quat? If so, does the adapter provide the necessary depth so the rack hook slides into the appropriate hole? If it works fine, I'll have to order the adapter and 2 inch Thule rack. What a PITA. Also, does it stick out a ridiculous amount and look stupid?
2) I could argue with Acura to give me my money back on the parts. I called them earlier today to explain the issue. They said they'd have to speak to the "parts supervisor" about possibly getting a refund on the parts. I'll eat the labor I guess, even though someone probably should have told me their receivers have such a short pin hole depth and thus don't work with what could be considered a universal rack system!
3) If I get rid of the Acura rack, has anyone used the Etrailer.com one? Any thoughts on it. I know it won't look as "clean" as the Acura one.
Haven’t noticed anything unusual, have traveled with bikes on the rack up to a 2 1/2 hour trip to date. Would not hesitate using the set up for a longer trip.
Thanks again. Been doing some reading. Will have to dig around a little more. Apparently these adapters reduce the tongue weight by 50 percent. The tongue weight for the RDX receiver is 150 lbs. That knocks it down to 75 lbs. The rack itself is around 50, leaving around 25 lbs total. My bike is around 29 lbs. According to what i'm reading it wouldn't be a good idea, but your real world experience is definitely worth noting as well. Much appreciated.
I have the Yakima 2 bike HoldUp with the 1.25” receiver and it fits the Acura factory hitch fine. I am leery of the 1.25 to 2” adapters due to the big bending moment resulting from the bike rack being so far rearward. (Yes, I am an engineer.)
The Yakima 1.25” end is a solid bar with a ½” threaded hole in it. Their special screw holds the bar tightly within the receiver.
I have the Yakima 2 bike HoldUp with the 1.25” receiver and it fits the Acura factory hitch fine. I am leery of the 1.25 to 2” adapters due to the big bending moment resulting from the bike rack being so far rearward. (Yes, I am an engineer.)
The Yakima 1.25” end is a solid bar with a ½” threaded hole in it. Their special screw holds the bar tightly within the receiver.
Thanks! After a few hours of reading and researching, I ended up going with the Kuat Sherpa 2.0. Spoke to Kuat and confirmed shank depth was good to go. It was between that and the 1Up. Didn't want to go the adapter route just for peace of mind (length, tongue weight, an extra item, etc.).
I put together the Sherpa 2.0 (Gray/Orange - 1 1/4 inch). The rack is awesome and it's almost a perfect color match to my modern steel metallic paint. Clearly that's just a bonus as I didn't necessarily plan for that, but i'll take it. I recommend this rack in case there is anyone else with the OEM receiver looking for one.
anyone try the only after market - draw-tite 76268?
I just finished installing the Draw Tite hitch. Although it isn't as elegant as the factory hitch it wasn't near as expensive as the factory unit. I found a new one on ebay for a little over $100 and the wiring kit added about $40.
Install time was about and hour. Lowered the spare tire, backed up onto ramps and dropped the muffler on one side. No need to drop both mufflers. The rubber bushing holding the muffler was the hardest part.
Install front bolts and swing up into place. I did have to use a small hydraulic jack to push the hitch enough to engage the rear bolts and it seems the bolts could be easily cross threaded. A little tedious to get them started.
The wiring harness kit that was listed as fitting the '19-'20 RDX was a Tekonsha 118800 but I found that apparently Acura may have two versions of the vehicle side plug. One with 2 red wires and one with 1 red wire. The 118800 is for the 2 red wire version. 118804 is their part # for the 1 red wire version. The difference is you need to find a 12v source with with 118804 where the other is apparently a direct replacement.
In my case I've contacted Tekonsha to see if I can modify the kit I have.
I was apprehensive about removing the interior panels but that turned out to be quick and easy. You only have to pull away the rear of the left side interior panel.
Different wiring harness plugs at the vehicle may be related to hands-free tailgate.
Originally Posted by Raynomad
it seems the bolts could be easily cross threaded. A little tedious to get them started.
Yep! That's why always hand-tighten with your fingers to get them going. DO NOT get frustrated and reach for the wrench, or you may wish you hadn't!
And if you waited to install the hitch until after the threaded frame weld nuts got nice and rusty, take your time and get things cleaned up with penetrating oil and a toothbrush.
I just finished installing the Draw Tite hitch. Although it isn't as elegant as the factory hitch it wasn't near as expensive as the factory unit. I found a new one on ebay for a little over $100 and the wiring kit added about $40.
Install time was about and hour. Lowered the spare tire, backed up onto ramps and dropped the muffler on one side. No need to drop both mufflers. The rubber bushing holding the muffler was the hardest part.
Install front bolts and swing up into place. I did have to use a small hydraulic jack to push the hitch enough to engage the rear bolts and it seems the bolts could be easily cross threaded. A little tedious to get them started.
The wiring harness kit that was listed as fitting the '19-'20 RDX was a Tekonsha 118800 but I found that apparently Acura may have two versions of the vehicle side plug. One with 2 red wires and one with 1 red wire. The 118800 is for the 2 red wire version. 118804 is their part # for the 1 red wire version. The difference is you need to find a 12v source with with 118804 where the other is apparently a direct replacement.
In my case I've contacted Tekonsha to see if I can modify the kit I have.
I was apprehensive about removing the interior panels but that turned out to be quick and easy. You only have to pull away the rear of the left side interior panel.
Can you post the pictures, thinking of getting one too..
I needed only a hitch for my bike rack and the prices from Acura are unreal. I've been waiting for the after market to come out with hitches but I can't wait any longer so I purchased my hitch at Duval Acura in Jacksonville, FL. I took proof of the online 30% off price but they would only match 25% off, oh well, couldn't wait any longer so I got it. Installation is pretty easy since I don't have the hand's free tailgate or a spare tire. You can skip all those steps. Here is a link to the directions: 2019 Acura RDX Rear Trailer Hitch http://www.urvi.net/forumfiles/SB/BII07802-09.PDF, thanks to EE4Life!
I didn't want to pony up the money for the OEM hitch bumper cover so I decided to fabricate my own from the existing cover. I figured if I messed it up I can still go buy a new one and install it, so nothing to loose.
This is the first brackets you bolt the RDX frame. This is the left there is an identical one on the right. I used an U Joint Socket and Impact Driver to turn the bolts before I used the torque wrench to tighten them to specs. I only attached the forward (towards the front of the car) bolts so I could swing the hitch up to the bumper and mark where I needed to cut the bumper cover. Be careful and get all the bolts started by hand. I tried to use the impact wrench thinking it would be quicker and striped the threads. I had to use my bench grinder to grind down the ends of the bolts to correct my mistake. This is the hitch hanging from only the forward bolts. I estimated how far I needed to cut and drew lines on the bumper cover using a white paper correction pen. I'd seen Granite guys using these pens to write temporary notes on Granite and it works pretty well on the black bumper cover. A view of my cutting plan from below. I used a drill to start and crate the corners of the cuts. I but the rest of the lines with a rotozip using a cutting wheel. This could be done with a Dremel Tool or perhaps an oscillating saw. I cleaned up the edges with a hand file and an emory cloth. There will be a lot of plastic burrs on the edges because the Cutting tool actually melts the plastic and creates a lot of burrs. Here is the finished product. Not perfect but very nice and it doesn't protrude out like the OEM cover. Here the finished hitch with the bike rack.
Nice job! Seeing this I’m sorry I ordered the trim for mine.
The wiring harness kit that was listed as fitting the '19-'20 RDX was a Tekonsha 118800 but I found that apparently Acura may have two versions of the vehicle side plug. One with 2 red wires and one with 1 red wire. The 118800 is for the 2 red wire version. 118804 is their part # for the 1 red wire version. The difference is you need to find a 12v source with 118804 where the other is apparently a direct replacement.
In my case I've contacted Tekonsha to see if I can modify the kit I have.
I have the 2020 ASpec (Canadian version) and had an aftermarket 2" hitch installed soon after purchasing the car in 2019. I'm looking for the correct wiring harness kit and until reading your message thought that the Tekonsha 118800 would be the correct one to order. Assuming there is already 12v at the existing harness connection point. Just wondering if you can let me know which RDX model you have that you tried to install the 118800 into.
I was thinking that even if there is no 12v feed from the harness it shouldn't be too difficult to run a separate 12 volt line to Tekonsha box.
Meto. It does look great. Is the harness bracket an option? It would look cleaner and more symmetrical if the bracket wasn't there. I realize that means that the wire/connector would need to be stowed/hidden somewhere behind the bumper cover.
does the factory hitch have a 2" receiver or the smaller one (1-1/4")?
I have the 2020 ASpec (Canadian version) and had an aftermarket 2" hitch installed soon after purchasing the car in 2019. I'm looking for the correct wiring harness kit and until reading your message thought that the Tekonsha 118800 would be the correct one to order. Assuming there is already 12v at the existing harness connection point. Just wondering if you can let me know which RDX model you have that you tried to install the 118800 into.
I was thinking that even if there is no 12v feed from the harness it shouldn't be too difficult to run a separate 12 volt line to Tekonsha box.
Thank you!
****UPDATE****
Since nobody responded I went ahead and ordered the Tekonsha 118800 and sure enough, there is no 12volt power source on the existing connector in the back of my RDX 2020 ASpec. So, I ran my own 12-volt power line from the fuse box (driver side) to the driver side rear. I had to use a wire fish tape to get around the base of the B pillar. To connect up to the fuse panel, I used a fuse tap adapter
and then on the 118800 you can pull the male 12-volt line out of the connector, cut off the 15amp fuse (put a 15amp fuse in the fuse tap adapter, you do not want a fuse hidden behind any panels!) and crimp or solder all of the connections together.
A great source of information on how to take apart the interior of the RDX is in this PDF - http://www.urvi.net/forumfiles/SB/BII14291-08.PDF - There is no need to go beyond removing the driver side, rear side trim panel (on page 8) - I attached the control box and ran the ground to the common ground connector. Tested the system and then buttoned everything back up. I ran the trailer connector to the rear bin via the latch hole.
I didn't take any photos but if anyone has any questions, please feel free, I'll try to help as much as I can.
Thanks for the info Tim. I also went aftermarket from etrailer for my 2021 A Spec. The 2” hitch was a piece of cake after I ignored the directions to lower the exhaust and simply removed the lower middle valance panel that allowed the hitch to slip right in place. Not knowing I also purchased the wiring kit for the two red wire connector. I returned the wrong wiring kit and now have the correct one! Now some help on wire routing would be greatly appreciated! Did you remove the rear and front door sills? Do they pull straight up? Did you tap into an ignition switched power source or an always hot circuit? Lastly, the way you explained needing to fish the wire past the B-pillar, is there a channel in the body with existing wiring under the door sills? Sorry, I just hate to start pulling panels without knowing what fasteners are being used. I got lucky on the panels to access the trailer wiring connector and I don’t want to push my luck. Great car, thanks for any info you can share!
Dunno about the rest, but every Honda/Acura door sill I've messed with ( many ) has pulled straight up, and the fasteners are just metal U-clips that remain attached to the sill. Usually it is helpful to unseat part of the rubber seal on the door sill first ( NOT the seals on the door ); it just pulls out.
If you have any concerns about this, it may be prudent to purchase a short term license for the online Acura service manual through Honda Service Express. $10 for 24 hours, or $50 per month, as I recall.
Sometimes useful information can be gleaned ( for free ) from accessory installation instructions. I believe there are accessory lighted door sills, for instance. And I know there are accessory trailer wiring and accessory remote start kits that require extensive disassembly of the rear cargo area trim.
Thanks for the encouragement! I did a dry run this afternoon and managed to get both door sill plates off. Without knowing exactly where and what fasteners are located I just took a deep breath and started pulling, fortunately it worked. The previous links in this topic refer to what I assume are Acura (Honda) instructions are excellent because they actually point out the location and type of fasteners to remove the rear panels. Unfortunately the instructions received with the aftermarket wiring kits give you next to nothing by instructing you to remove panels A,B,C, D and E. Thanks again, these forums are invaluable to owners that are new to the RDX and just can’t leave their hands on the steering wheel!
If anyone is interested I installed the wire harness for towing a trailer on Monday 28 Dec. Two hours to do the install taking my time. Kit comes with everything you need. Taking apart the rear cargo area is pretty easy and you only have to partially remove the rear drivers panel in the cargo area to get to the plug in for the harness. Sorry didn’t have time to do a detailed write up with pics. I had to make a late Christmas delivery for mom in NC. Here are some pics of the final result. Harness without the HFA (Hands Free Access) 4ft x 9ft trailer from U-Haul.
If anyone is interested I installed the wire harness for towing a trailer on Monday 28 Dec. Two hours to do the install taking my time. Kit comes with everything you need. Taking apart the rear cargo area is pretty easy and you only have to partially remove the rear drivers panel in the cargo area to get to the plug in for the harness. Sorry didn’t have time to do a detailed write up with pics. I had to make a late Christmas delivery for mom in NC. Here are some pics of the final result. Harness without the HFA (Hands Free Access) 4ft x 9ft trailer from U-Haul.
The hitch cover attachment looks cleaner than the few that I have seen. Could you please share the part number for the hitch cover?
03-08-2019, 08:28 PM
