I know that the car has not hit the road yet, but based upon the other Honda products that have the same/similar drivetrain:
Any idea about the ease of routine maintenance on this vehicle....ie....transmission fluid change (seems much more of a PITA now that dipsticks on transmissions are disappearing). Likewise with SH-AWD, fluid replacement with RD?
Seems like the Acura suggested fluid change is relatively low (thought I read 30,000 miles) for all drivetrain fluids. That is about my annual mileage.
Also interested if someone will offer the red caliper covers and other aftermarket items not shown with the A-Spec.

 

We might have to look at the Honda forums with the 10AT to see if there is a different maint interval for service or an easy way for the owner to service. The current RLX non sh-sh-awd comes with the 10AT. Those owners might give us a "heads-up" on the 10AT performance, maint schedule, and how easy to service?

My 08 RDX maint schedule and ease for service really isn't any different compared to my 06 TSX or 11 MDX. My guess is the RDX will require full syn oil and the M.I.D. oil change interval might be the same for my 1st Gen RDX at around 5000-6000 miles because the syn oil needs to lubricate the high temp turbo bearings. The big savings I have with my TSX and RDX is only have 4 cylinders and timing chain when the 105,000 service is due. The price is 1/2 compared to my MDX for the same service. This might make the 3rd Gen RDX an excellent buy for the high mileage +8 years owners and used car market (help keep resale value up).

The (minor) issue I've had with the 1st Gen RDX was it took time for aftermarket to catch-up with the new platform. It wasn't' until +2010 when there was more choices in suspension, engine upgrades, exhaust, hitch/roof rack, reflash, brakes, tires, etc... Depending on how new the 3rd Gen RDX will be, it could take a while before we get a lot of choices in aftermarket upgrades. Aftermarket support for the current models of Acura's is almost completely dried up and mostly brake pads or floor mats compared to the pre 2010 Acura's performance/handling years.

 

Yeah....I have been poking around the Honda forums and see very few issues with the 10 speed transmission.....but as we know from the TLX it is largely a function of how it is programmed.
My 07 TL makes it very easy to do a transmission fluid 3 x 3, esp with the dipstick...just drain and replace. No need to check the level with another drain plug.
I am happy that it will be a timing chain vs. belt. I have done 2 timing belts on current car and she is due for another probably next year. I run up a ton of miles and tend to keep my cars for the long haul.

 

Honestly I would expect a maintenance schedule on par with the 1st gen RDX. Similar cycles for oil, fluids, spark plugs, etc. The drivetrain is, for the most part, a evolution from 10 years ago and not so much a revolution. My only concern is how some DI engines handle build-up on the intake valves over time. Anyone know if this engine has secondary port injection or some other measure to keep the intake valves clean for the long term?

 

 

It is a regular DI with no secondary port injectors. I have searched for issues with other Honda DI engines and have seen no reports of carbon issues on back of valves....so no news is good news I hope. I tend to keep my cars for a long time, so this is also a concern that I have. Most of the reading I have done on issue suggests using top tier gasoline (I know it never passes over the valve backs, but read a report that shows that top tier gasoline is effective in preventing coking)

 

im just amazed they use a 0w 20 which just seems sketchy
vw/audi use 5w 40 and they have been using the 1.8-2.0 t forever..then you have the oil fuel dilution issues with the 1.5 t in the crv/civic also using tbe 0w 20

 

I believe this is our engine. In the video it looks like they moved the injector to be able to spray on the valves like a Port injected motor or as close as possible anyway. You guys tell me if you see it also.

 

 

I would think that using 5W30 full synthetic would not be an issue...especially in warm climates.

 

 

 

All I am saying is that 0W20 is a concoction so manufacturers can meet stricter fuel economy standards. I truly don't think that 5W30 would have any negative impact on the engine at all. If anyone is concerned about the protection offered by 0W20, 5W30 is a valid option.

 

Nope!

 

I agree. I also tend to believe that all car manufactures moved to a thinner oil in order to squeeze better MPG while sacrificing engine protection. They probably figured that protection is "good enough". Time will tell as those problems surface on 200K+ engines. Having said that, since 0w-20 is a synthetic oil, it may offer adequate protection.