Amp & Sub Install
12-03-2018, 06:26 PM
#1
2022 MDX Advanced
Thread Starter
Amp & Sub Install
Hi Guys,
Happy to share I’ve succesfully added an amp and sub to the factory ELS surround system. It was a tricky install due to the factory amp and equalization, but it works excellent now.
Shopping list:
JL Audio 10W3v3-2
JL Audio JX500
JL Audio RBC-1
JL Audio SGRU-10
AudioControl LC2i
Rockford Fosgate RFK8i
SoundOrdnance Bass Bunker
Things to look out for:
1. Make sure you connect the input of the Line Out Converter to the connector going directly to the factory sub. If you connect at the output of the factory amp you are going to have issues. The sub signal must go elsewhere in the car after the factory amp and prior to the connector to the sub box.
2. Make SURE to get the line out converter I spec’d above. You need this powered one to allow you to tune out the bass from your factory system, but boost it back into the amp that feeds your new sub. Without that, you’d get no low frequency to the sub and need to leave the bass running through the factory speakers as well.
3. If you happen to blow the dome light fuse - it’s a custom fuse size and it’s actually in a mini fuse box connected to the battery itself. Really crazy design. Not sure how mine got blown, but it did and it took FOREVER to find where it was located.
With the gain turned up less then 50% and the volume at 25....the whole car shakes....very glad that I have a remote bass knob mounted amazingly.
If you are in Chicagoland and want this done, let me know and I will hook you up.
See pics at Dropbox links below:
Bass Knob install - looks factory!!
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ewxif9m72x...23.37.jpg?dl=0
Amp and Line Out Converter Under Floor
https://www.dropbox.com/s/cmghpbvca5...07.59.jpg?dl=0
Sub in Box in Trunk - Cleeean
https://www.dropbox.com/s/u4lyrx6dyk...09.15.jpg?dl=0
Happy to share I’ve succesfully added an amp and sub to the factory ELS surround system. It was a tricky install due to the factory amp and equalization, but it works excellent now.
Shopping list:
JL Audio 10W3v3-2
JL Audio JX500
JL Audio RBC-1
JL Audio SGRU-10
AudioControl LC2i
Rockford Fosgate RFK8i
SoundOrdnance Bass Bunker
Things to look out for:
1. Make sure you connect the input of the Line Out Converter to the connector going directly to the factory sub. If you connect at the output of the factory amp you are going to have issues. The sub signal must go elsewhere in the car after the factory amp and prior to the connector to the sub box.
2. Make SURE to get the line out converter I spec’d above. You need this powered one to allow you to tune out the bass from your factory system, but boost it back into the amp that feeds your new sub. Without that, you’d get no low frequency to the sub and need to leave the bass running through the factory speakers as well.
3. If you happen to blow the dome light fuse - it’s a custom fuse size and it’s actually in a mini fuse box connected to the battery itself. Really crazy design. Not sure how mine got blown, but it did and it took FOREVER to find where it was located.
With the gain turned up less then 50% and the volume at 25....the whole car shakes....very glad that I have a remote bass knob mounted amazingly.
If you are in Chicagoland and want this done, let me know and I will hook you up.
See pics at Dropbox links below:
Bass Knob install - looks factory!!
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ewxif9m72x...23.37.jpg?dl=0
Amp and Line Out Converter Under Floor
https://www.dropbox.com/s/cmghpbvca5...07.59.jpg?dl=0
Sub in Box in Trunk - Cleeean
https://www.dropbox.com/s/u4lyrx6dyk...09.15.jpg?dl=0
Last edited by joeliu2003; 12-03-2018 at 06:33 PM.
The following 4 users liked this post by joeliu2003:
12-04-2018, 11:59 PM
#4
Burning Brakes
Wow very clean Install!!! get any pics of the factory amp or sub? My only concern is putting the extra pressure from the sub on the moon roof. I ran competitions in my Mazda and blew out all the wields in my roof over a few years ha ha, but I was also flexing my roof about 2 inches on full tilt, I was running 2 sundown 12s on about 2800rms tho 
12-05-2018, 05:24 AM
#5
2022 MDX Advanced
Thread Starter
Wow very clean Install!!! get any pics of the factory amp or sub? My only concern is putting the extra pressure from the sub on the moon roof. I ran competitions in my Mazda and blew out all the wields in my roof over a few years ha ha, but I was also flexing my roof about 2 inches on full tilt, I was running 2 sundown 12s on about 2800rms tho
Your previous setup sounds nuts! I’m just trying to fill in the low end....not entering any contests
. We shall see though....now that I’ve gotten a taste of the bass....
12-05-2018, 02:20 PM
#7
2022 MDX Advanced
Thread Starter
It was too shallow for and added expense for not as good sonic outcome.
Could likely fit a shallow mount 8" in there, but really wouldn't be much bang for your buck
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03-08-2019, 07:50 PM
#8
4th Gear
Join Date: Mar 2008
Age: 38
Posts: 4
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Received 0 Likes
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Hi Guys,
Happy to share I’ve succesfully added an amp and sub to the factory ELS surround system. It was a tricky install due to the factory amp and equalization, but it works excellent now.
Shopping list:
JL Audio 10W3v3-2
JL Audio JX500
JL Audio RBC-1
JL Audio SGRU-10
AudioControl LC2i
Rockford Fosgate RFK8i
SoundOrdnance Bass Bunker
Things to look out for:
1. Make sure you connect the input of the Line Out Converter to the connector going directly to the factory sub. If you connect at the output of the factory amp you are going to have issues. The sub signal must go elsewhere in the car after the factory amp and prior to the connector to the sub box.
2. Make SURE to get the line out converter I spec’d above. You need this powered one to allow you to tune out the bass from your factory system, but boost it back into the amp that feeds your new sub. Without that, you’d get no low frequency to the sub and need to leave the bass running through the factory speakers as well.
3. If you happen to blow the dome light fuse - it’s a custom fuse size and it’s actually in a mini fuse box connected to the battery itself. Really crazy design. Not sure how mine got blown, but it did and it took FOREVER to find where it was located.
With the gain turned up less then 50% and the volume at 25....the whole car shakes....very glad that I have a remote bass knob mounted amazingly.
If you are in Chicagoland and want this done, let me know and I will hook you up.
See pics at Dropbox links below:
Bass Knob install - looks factory!!
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ewxif9m72x...23.37.jpg?dl=0
Amp and Line Out Converter Under Floor
https://www.dropbox.com/s/cmghpbvca5...07.59.jpg?dl=0
Sub in Box in Trunk - Cleeean
https://www.dropbox.com/s/u4lyrx6dyk...09.15.jpg?dl=0
Happy to share I’ve succesfully added an amp and sub to the factory ELS surround system. It was a tricky install due to the factory amp and equalization, but it works excellent now.
Shopping list:
JL Audio 10W3v3-2
JL Audio JX500
JL Audio RBC-1
JL Audio SGRU-10
AudioControl LC2i
Rockford Fosgate RFK8i
SoundOrdnance Bass Bunker
Things to look out for:
1. Make sure you connect the input of the Line Out Converter to the connector going directly to the factory sub. If you connect at the output of the factory amp you are going to have issues. The sub signal must go elsewhere in the car after the factory amp and prior to the connector to the sub box.
2. Make SURE to get the line out converter I spec’d above. You need this powered one to allow you to tune out the bass from your factory system, but boost it back into the amp that feeds your new sub. Without that, you’d get no low frequency to the sub and need to leave the bass running through the factory speakers as well.
3. If you happen to blow the dome light fuse - it’s a custom fuse size and it’s actually in a mini fuse box connected to the battery itself. Really crazy design. Not sure how mine got blown, but it did and it took FOREVER to find where it was located.
With the gain turned up less then 50% and the volume at 25....the whole car shakes....very glad that I have a remote bass knob mounted amazingly.
If you are in Chicagoland and want this done, let me know and I will hook you up.
See pics at Dropbox links below:
Bass Knob install - looks factory!!
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ewxif9m72x...23.37.jpg?dl=0
Amp and Line Out Converter Under Floor
https://www.dropbox.com/s/cmghpbvca5...07.59.jpg?dl=0
Sub in Box in Trunk - Cleeean
https://www.dropbox.com/s/u4lyrx6dyk...09.15.jpg?dl=0
1) Do you have any pics of the installation procedure?
2) Do the other 15 speakers sound the same?... but with more bass from the aftermarket subwoofer?
3) Is the subwoofer volume affected by stereo volume knob or only the subwoofer knob?
4) How is the fake engine noise and the active noise cancellation affected by this?
There arent many / any other aftermarket installs for the RDX posted... so thanks for this.
PS: I've joined this forum almost exactly 11 years ago to the day! I don't remember why I joined lol. I am now in the market for a '19 RDX, and you are my first post reply!
03-08-2019, 09:11 PM
#9
2022 MDX Advanced
Thread Starter
1) Do you have any pics of the installation procedure?
I don’t.
2) Do the other 15 speakers sound the same?... but with more bass from the aftermarket subwoofer?
Similar, but it allows you to equalize out the bass more so it sounds cleaner to me.
3) Is the subwoofer volume affected by stereo volume knob or only the subwoofer knob?
By both the amp gain control and the stereo volume control.
4) How is the fake engine noise and the active noise cancellation affected by this?
I unplugged the ANC module. Road noise isn’t an issue as I typically listen to the stereo loud enough that it’s not disturbing.
I don’t.
2) Do the other 15 speakers sound the same?... but with more bass from the aftermarket subwoofer?
Similar, but it allows you to equalize out the bass more so it sounds cleaner to me.
3) Is the subwoofer volume affected by stereo volume knob or only the subwoofer knob?
By both the amp gain control and the stereo volume control.
4) How is the fake engine noise and the active noise cancellation affected by this?
I unplugged the ANC module. Road noise isn’t an issue as I typically listen to the stereo loud enough that it’s not disturbing.
03-11-2019, 06:34 PM
#10
very nice..I'm impressed @joeliu2003 I considered adding a sub as I have the same JL w3v3 sitting in my closet from the previous TSX, but didnt want to hassle w/the factory stuff...Now you got me thinking...
03-11-2019, 06:37 PM
#11
2022 MDX Advanced
Thread Starter
very nice..I'm impressed @joeliu2003 I considered adding a sub as I have the same JL w3v3 sitting in my closet from the previous TSX, but didnt want to hassle w/the factory stuff...Now you got me thinking...
Definitey worth it it in my opinion - makes the car at least 15-20% more enjoyable for me.
05-22-2019, 10:33 AM
#12
Thank you for this thread...exactly what I was looking for...and that install job is super clean. Very nice.
1.) I assume you ran power from the battery...did you go through the firewall or under the car and if so, where to get into the cabin from?
2.) Where did you tap into for remote turn on?
3.) and to connect the LOC to that factory sub, does the grill pop off with enough force or do you have to take of trim/molding?
Many thanks! I can't wait to get bass back in the trunk...
1.) I assume you ran power from the battery...did you go through the firewall or under the car and if so, where to get into the cabin from?
2.) Where did you tap into for remote turn on?
3.) and to connect the LOC to that factory sub, does the grill pop off with enough force or do you have to take of trim/molding?
Many thanks! I can't wait to get bass back in the trunk...
The following users liked this post:
dpg (10-14-2019)
10-14-2019, 08:40 PM
#13
10th Gear
Thank you in advance!
The following users liked this post:
nsterwald78 (10-15-2019)
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