Shade Works!
Tried to open roof either auto , manual or tilt and I only hear a single relay click. Not a motor noise.
Can someone please provide some tips where to start my troubleshooting?

Incidentally, my car is one of those that the moonroof has made the popping noise since it was new when backing out while turning on an uneven surface. I am out of Warranty so I never performed the TSB repair due to cost.
Oh And it is a CANADIAN vehicle if that matters.

 

You didn't say what year your RDX is, but if it was a 2020, I would suggest checking Fuse #17, a 20 Amp fuse located in interior fuse box Type A. This box is the larger one located above the driver's left knee.

Your owners manual will have a picture that might help you locate the box.
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Thanks for the reply!
It's a 2019 Platinum Elite
Guess it's too late to edit thread!

 

It's likely the same fuse. Use the index in the owners manual to find the pages with fuse locations.

 

Yep, same fuse but it's good, so my headache just got much worse didn't it? We only use it about three times a year, park in a garage and only have 67000 km. Not much to explain how the motor would fail other than a sticky brush defect in the armature housing. If I could only tap on the housing!!

 

To test if the roof motor is defective, close the shade, and then attempt to open the glass. The "Panoramic Glass Roof Moto-Control Unit" will send a command to the Shade Control Unit, to open the shade. This should still happen even if the motor is not operating. If this happens, then probably the control unit is okay.

Although it is unlike, the control switch may be defective. You can prove this theory by opening the sunroof using an alternate method. Try using the key fob instead of the button on the roof of the cabin. If this method fails, then you likely have a defective "Panoramic Glass Roof Moto-Control Unit"..

Be aware that if the roof opens, you will not be able to close it by using the same method. .

Or a connector could have become loose.

 

Oh man, I hate the stupid panoramic roof. Does acura listen to feedback? Most people do not want cars with sun roofs and especially pano roofs. It only adds multiple PITAs:
1. creaking and popping noises
2. glass explosion
3. water leaks
4. expensive repairs
5. Additional hidden cost that makes these cars more expensive

I bet if Acura really listened to their customers, the majority 90%+ would say they dont need this stupid roof.

 

Test confirmed that Headliner opens with roof open switch.
Test Confirmed that roof did NOT open with remote but windows did.

Cant wait to see the next step! I am looking forward to a challenge.

 

I can't offer much else from here.

You proved that the roof switch is not the problem because it opened the shade when you pushed it. Your test with the fob also bypassed the switch, which also eliminates it.
Since the Roof Control Module recognized the switch was pushed, and sent the command to the Shade Control Module, it is probably okay.

It's beginning to look like a dead motor, or the roof is stuck in the track.
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If you had a clamp on amp meter you could check if current consumption (from the battery) increases when you attempt to open the roof. An increase would indicate a jammed roof, while no increase would indicate a defective motor.

 

Thanks up to here anyway. I did find a seemingly related TSB
http://www.urvi.net/forumfiles/SB/B23-013.PDF

I would like you opinion on the cause and corrective action. It seems to me that cause does not warrant the correction, unless the MCU somehow disables the motor and cannot be reset?

 

Is anyone able to provide instructions for how to remove the sunroof motor?
Parts replacement from a TSB indicate that I will need 4 clip replacements so I assume I will have to break clip during removal.

 

Well the TSB says to replace both the roof motor and the shade motor, which I don't think is required. I also don't think the control module could detect a clock frequency error unless the motor turned at least a small amount, but might be misinterpreting the meaning of the that wording.

Bottom line, the TSB suggests changing the motor (despite the reason), and your own diagnosis suggests changing the motor (if the test for current draw was negative). Unless you purchased an extended warrantee it will be totally at your own expense.