Started it this morning, hooked up my trailer, moved the car to the street and 10 minutes later won't start. Battery is at 12.5, disconected the battery, neg then pos, hooked it back up and tried jumping with a box, then my other car......no dice.

No dash or dome lights but horn blows... Any idea's, I'd hate to go to the dealer if it's something simple. I did disconect the trailer plug and that did nothing.

Thanks for thinking about it!

 

Not sure but perhaps you somehow blew the main fuse? Not the little 10-20A fuses, its under the hood and believe it is a 70A fuse. Might be worth a look - just a thought

 

Thanks for the input.... I checked every fuse today, ones on the battery cable, box at cowl, box by battery and box at kick panel. No blown fuses. Has me stumped. Thank you

 

There is a fairly lengthy thread on here of a very similar situation (i.e no start for no reason). I can't remember what the resolution was but it was something very simple. Try searching for it on here.

 

Longshot, but a host of a local radio program just recently had an experience coming home (Philadelphia) from the Outer Banks of North Carolina. Car wouldn't start but after numerous efforts by AAA they got the car running. Out of habit, a few hundred miles later he shut the engine off at a rest stop. Same thing, a very dead car. But AAA again was able to get it started by replacing the batteries in the key fob. He reported on the radio no further issues. The procedure to replace the battery can be found on page 571 of the manual which if needed is at https://cdn.dealereprocess.org/cdn/s...a/2020-rdx.pdf. The fob uses a 2032 "coin" type battery. A word of advice is to buy the Energizer brand. Duracell's have a bitter coating on them so that if a child puts a CR2032 lithium coin battery in their mouth, the bitter coating will immediately react with saliva to release a bitter taste which helps discourage swallowing. Unfortunately the coating also has been known to cause some contact issue when used in fobs.

 

I've done a lot of searching but can't find anything....I'll keep trying.

 

Hmmm. I have 2 fobs it would be odd if they are both dead but I will try it. Let you know. Thank you

 

Tried it....no dice on that... but thanks.

 

Have you checked the fuse for the fuel pump? Also some in the thread at RDX won;t start reports that his cause was the steering wheel was turned and in the lock position.

 

I've checked every fuse in all fuse blocks including mains off pos cable....all good.

 

How are you checking the fuses? Also did you see the edit to my previous post? Also some in the thread at RDX won;t start reports that his cause was the steering wheel was turned and in the lock position.

 

Ignore that previous about the steering wheel lock. I think it was someone who highjacked a thread in an older model where a key is actually inserted into an ignition switch.

Something else to try...use the end of the key fob and press it against the start button. This is an emergency method of starting when fob batteries are weak (and I realize you said you replaced them).
Also, some people with trailer hitches report that if the hitch wiring covers the hatch sensor, they have encountered starting issues. Does you RDX have the feature where you can pass your foot under the bumper and open the hatch? If so reroute the wiring and retest.

 

I check the with a continuity tester while in....the main fuses offf the pos battery cable are large enough to see when flipped over. Wheels are straigt but I'll try moving the steering wheel. The odd thing is no dash or dome lights and the horn is strong with 12.2 volts on the battery

 

Tried the key fob wave and I don't have the foot under the rear to open the hatch, Keep em coming...Thanks!

 

I suspect you tested the key fob properly but it isn’t really a “wave”. You actually use the fob to press in the start button.

Does anything besides the horn work, something like headlights? If you press on the brake pedal, do the brake lights work?

 

It might be the battery. Original???? The Haynes Manual says in general “The resting voltage should ideally be no lower than 12.6V. Bear in mind that when a battery goes down to 12.2V it's actually only 50% charged, and below 12V it's classed as discharged.”

Perhaps remove the battery and take it to a shop that can test it and preferably one that can do the old fashioned load test, not these tests they do today with something not much more than a phone sized device.

 

Got it....I'll try that

 

Yes....but it should start on a jump. I have load tester here. I'm gona check it and throw in a new battery on Tues. Thanks for sticking with me!

 

My experience about two years ago with a 2013 Accord. Returned from a trip and car would not start at the airport. The parking lot people attempted to give me a jump but it was initially unsuccessful. They used one of those portable power packs. After numerous attempts the car finally did start. It was fine for several days and I had it tested by Autozone and Advance auto parts, Tested fine. It started randomly acting up again; took it to the dealer who said the battery was fine. There was a TSB about an issue and the resolution was to rotate the torque converter relative to the flywheel one bolt hole. Dealer wanted US$1200. I took the car to a local shop who put an “old-fashioned” load test on the battery and it failed miserably. I replaced the battery and the car has been fine for two years.

It will be interesting to hear what a load test does on your vehicle.

 

I'm gona replace the battery on tuesday and I'll keep you posted.

 

So I replaced the battery this morning.... Same deal. I pushed the start button with the key fob (it has a new battery in it) and she started.
Something is wrong though cause my tailgate won't work with the button and I have a light flashing saying my stop start has an issue to see the dealer.
I'm gona make an appt tomorrow...at least I won't have to tow her in.
Keep you posted.

 

Note sure why you are saying “same deal”. Before it wouldn’t start, now after battery replacement it does start so that is progress!

Any on the tailgate…remove the batteries from the fob for a few minutes and then reinstall, then retest. That won’t help the auto stop start but it will refresh the fob communications.

 

Well yes...it starts but only if you push the start button with the key fob. My start stop isn't working and it says to contact the dealer. It must be some kind of programming issue. I'm going to call the dealer tomorrow for an appt. Let you know what goes on.

 

The behavior of starting by using the fob against the Start button is typical of a weak fob battery. If you have a voltmeter check the condition of the batteries in the fob. Also be certain are installed correctly with respect to the polarity (positive (+) side facing up), and if you are using Duracell batteries, make sure the protective coating is removed. The coating is not something like a plastic film, it is a liquid applied to the surface so that a child would get a bitter taste if they put the battery in their mouth.

 

Hey John...Just touching base. Did all the key fob battery stuff, still no dice. Brought her to the dealer yesterday but haven't heard back yet. Hopefully tomorrow. I'll let you know what the outcome is. Thanks again for all your input.

 

Curious for any updates from the dealer? Did they figure it out? Fix it? Are you out of warranty at this point?

 

No update yet....called but they didn't return my call. Yes out of warranty 85k miles. Hopefully hear something tomorrow. Will circle back

 

Just left the dealer.... they are saying they haven't been able scan it cause the car won't communicate with the scanner. Supposed to get a higher level tech on it and call me later

 

That is starting to sound like the Engine Control Module. Unfortunately it is about $350 new (+ labor) but there are several on eBay. I do not know however if the module is flashed (electronically programmed) to a specific vehicle. If that is needed the dealer likely would have to be involved. The other thing that might apply is a recall on replacing a fuel pump. For details see

 

Fuel pump recall

 

MORE See Part 573 Safety Recall Report 23V-858. Specifically see page 6 where the recall is deemed necessary on vehicles manufactured between OCT 25, 2017 - OCT 04, 2019. The date of manufacturer should be on the tag adjacent to the driver's side door. With the car at the dealer you can't see it but ask about the recall.

 

Any word yet on what the issue might be? I sure hope that dealer is giving you a loaner!

 

This is hard to believe, but my aftermarket tow hitch plug shorted and took out the whole car. They fixed the short, replaced the fuse and I'm back in business.
Crazy huh? 296.00 diagnostic charge
Thanks for sticking with me John

 

Wow!! Who installed you hitch and how long ago?

 

I had a small fender bender.... backed into my sons truck in the driveway and the body shop who did the work installed the hitch and wiring. It's been on for 3 years.

 

In those 3 years was this the first time you attempted to use the hitch?

 

Glad you got it figured out. Guess there isn't much you can do about it at this point.

 

No.... I use it every couple weeks

 

Yes thanks....glad it's fixed

 

Weird. If a fuse blew the logical thing is something shorted to ground. But connectors usually and designed such that they aren’t reversible just to prevent that situation.