Rear Brake pad installation problem
#1
Rear Brake pad installation problem
I tried to install new rear pads on my TSX and wonder how to push the caliper back in?
I used a C clamp and it wouldn't budge.....do I need to loosen the bleed valve to release the pressure or what????
What do I need to grease with the grease the pads came with? just curious.
THANKS in advanced for the help.
payton
I used a C clamp and it wouldn't budge.....do I need to loosen the bleed valve to release the pressure or what????
What do I need to grease with the grease the pads came with? just curious.
THANKS in advanced for the help.
payton
#5
Driver/Detailer
Originally Posted by [R]isque'
Is this for CU2?
If so, does it use the same pads as the CL9?
If so, does it use the same pads as the CL9?
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#8
Originally Posted by zainxxl69
happened with my 06 tsx too.
can i ask wut kind of breaks u bought for the rear?
im hearing the Hawk HPS is good.
can i ask wut kind of breaks u bought for the rear?
im hearing the Hawk HPS is good.
#9
Pro
Ugg Pepboys brakes. You really need to stay away from those pads. Besides for $10 more you could have bought the OEM ones. Usually any good quality aftermarket pads will be more expensive then OEM pads.
#10
I just had my brother-in-law pick up a set of pads for me, from AC/Delco...
Has anyone ever used these on a TSX?? Just wondering how they are before I actually install them.
As for THIS thread yes, rotate them clock-wise (ie, screw them in). You'll want to grease the pins, both sides of the shim (yes, both), the tabs, but not the caliper side of the pads...
Don't forget to scuff up/sand the rotor before you put the caliper back on. This takes the glaze off and prevents it from being deposited on your new pads, which will among other things, make them squeal. You can use rough sandpaper if you don't have anything else.
Cheers.
Has anyone ever used these on a TSX?? Just wondering how they are before I actually install them.
As for THIS thread yes, rotate them clock-wise (ie, screw them in). You'll want to grease the pins, both sides of the shim (yes, both), the tabs, but not the caliper side of the pads...
Don't forget to scuff up/sand the rotor before you put the caliper back on. This takes the glaze off and prevents it from being deposited on your new pads, which will among other things, make them squeal. You can use rough sandpaper if you don't have anything else.
Cheers.
#11
I just replaced the rear pads (34,000 mi) and first time Ive run into this type of brake piston. The 5-6 times Ive replaced pads in the past a c clamp is what was needed. Not here though. As described above need this funky box tool and rotate clockwise to reset piston. $11.99 at AutoZone. Thanks again A-zine! Always learning something new!
#12
Pro
I just replaced the rear pads (34,000 mi) and first time Ive run into this type of brake piston. The 5-6 times Ive replaced pads in the past a c clamp is what was needed. Not here though. As described above need this funky box tool and rotate clockwise to reset piston. $11.99 at AutoZone. Thanks again A-zine! Always learning something new!
#15
Pro
When I rotate the piston, I just line up the cross section with the viewer hole in the caliper. This gets it close enough to line up with the pin.
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Terdbath (10-02-2014)
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