2013 Tech. The car has an extended crank if I let it run for less than 5 min (say to move it) and let it sit for about 15 min+. I replaced the fuel pump relay with the new denso part assuming that’s what it was after some research and it still does it. Can anyone help with this or have the same problem?? I noticed that with the new relay it sounds healthier when cranking. (One video is with the new relay and the other is with the old one.)

 

Could also be a bad starter

 

For many months I too have been having the extended crank issue. After reading many posts and verifying and trying to eliminate what I could before throwing money at the problem, here is what I came up with.
1. I cleaned the main battery ground, wire brush the ground cable lug and cleaned the spot welded stud to the vehicle body. The lug surface was discolored, not so sure I did the greatest job on the spot welded nut as the wire brush was slightly bigger than the opening, Will redo this step.
2. The ground on the passenger side has not been done yet.
3. About 2 months ago I replaced the starter with a Napa starter which appears to be an OE rebuilt starter. The original starter died at 262,000 kms.
4. The battery is a Costco battery less than one year old. Battery voltage at rest and running appears to meet the requirements for good performance.

Out of desperation after reading many posts I decided to change out the fuel pump relay located under the drivers side dash board, part no. 39794-SDA-004 $55.52 CN$. (Genuine Denso relay Made in Japan), purchased from local Acura dealer.

Prior to purchasing the relay I ran some trials by placing the ignition key to position two and observing the relay function, a faint click was observed each time, although the car seemed to start better if I waited a few seconds until the fuel gauge was registering a level and the car would start by advancing the ignition position.
Based on this observation and frustration I felt the relay was maybe to blame and decided to change it. I took to cover off the old relay to see if anything stood out as being defective, nothing suspicious was found.
The new relay when installed had a more distinct and louder click, when the coil was energized.

Even with the new relay the problem still persists. The only improvement can be seen by placing the ignition switch to position 2 waiting a few seconds and then competing the starting sequence by advancing the key.

Would like to know if anyone has had any success in correcting this issue. I don't want to be changing the fuel pump as I heard a bad check valve can also be causing this issue. Has anyone replaced a fuel pump with a genuine unit, would like to know, cost any benefits, make of fuel pump etc.

Thank you in advance.

 

Get a bottle of fuel system cleaner and throw it in the gas tank. I noticed it started doing it after I got gas from thornton’s and didn’t use premium. But I got valvoline fuel system cleaner and put it in my tank before filling up with marathon premium and the problem has went away from what I can tell. It hasn’t done it since father’s day weekend a few months ago.

 

Fuel pressure regulator which is in the tank. You may as well change the fuel pump while you are there.

Pressure regulator
17052-TA0-A00 Genuine Acura Regulator Set, Pressure (acurapartswarehouse.com)


Fuel pump which comes with the pressure regulator.
https://www.acurapartswarehouse.com/...5-ta0-a00.html

 

Well, after reading your suggestion I wasn't totally sold, but decided to try it. I purchased a bottle of STP 5 in 1 fuel system cleaner. Almost immediately the car started without hesitation. I have now driven 350Kms and the starting is consistently better. I have always used top tier fuels (premium) in the car. the first eight years of ownership I mostly used Shell fuel and the last 4 years Costco gas. I having doubts that the Costco gas is on the same level as Shell. This last tank I used shell fuel with the STP additive. I'll report back in the future with the results.

Thank you

 

I must’ve spoke to soon because it did it again today but it hasn’t done it since father’s day. Have you recently had timing work done?? My timing chain, tensioner, guides and VTC actuator were replaced a few months before it started happening. I noticed today it did it when I didn’t let my car sit in the on position for a second or 2 like I usually like to do. I’m probably gonna put another bottle of system cleaner in as it’s been a couple of thousand miles and I have an extra I need to get rid of.

 

I really only wanna do this as a last resort option incase that it’s not it and I just threw $130 part at it with no issue. Also i’m pretty sure when I took my car to the honda dealer to have them check it out they said that was fine but I don’t really remember.

 

Ok y’all,I know this thread kinda died out and left it with fuel system cleaner helping but the issue still came back. Has anyone possibly considered the fuel injectors being leaky..? I was just thinking about it because basically the engine is flooding with gas and is trying to burn that extra gas.

 

Redirecting this old thread. Our 2009 Acura TSX has an extended crank. Before that, I had an intermittent no crank. We got starter changed, now there is an extended crank with random codes that are a result of the long crank.

 

So since this thread, I took my car to the dealership and they diagnosed the issue being the fuel pump wasn’t holding pressure so I had it replaced. It helped the issue but didn’t fix it so I brought it back and they said that it’s also the fuel injectors bleeding the pressure but they want $1000 dollars for that so I said hell no and i’m just gonna do it myself. I actually ordered the injectors but they were on back order months ago but I just haven’t gotten around to it and have just been living with the issue since then lol

 

charge up the battery and try again

 

I am having similar issues with my 2011 TSX. Did replacing fuel injectors help? Thanks

 

i’m not gonna lie i still haven’t gotten around to it lol. I’ve just been living with it and the way around it is to turn the car off in drive so the rpm’s are lowered when the engine is cold and it works every time to not make it struggle to start later

 

Hmmm. I try to put the key into on position so everything powers up the count to five before I crank. But I'm not sure that that's working. It seems sort of random. One day it starts right up the next it starts on the second crank. I replaced the starter and battery. I also started adding the Lucas upper cylinder lubricant and injector cleaner to fuel. We'll see if it things improve in a few fuel tanks. Thanks.

 

I will actually crank it and hold the crank until it starts. The VSA light will come on. I will turn it off re-crank it and it starts right up and it’s fine.

 

I have time to mess with this problem again. I saw a video where the problem was the VVT Solenoid was bad. I do believe it is leaking oil. Maybe I’ll fire the parts cannon at that.

before this started, a mechanic put in a remanufactured starter. I really don’t want that to be the problem. An actual Acura one costs $600 last time I checked.

 

I posted in this thread earlier. I had all the same issues that most of you were having with the extended crank . A couple of weeks ago after shutting the engine down and going into a store and coming back out and starting a hot engine my car had the extended crank and presented several codes most of them relating with a cylinder misfire. My car went into limp mode and I drove it home couldn't get the speed above 30 km an hour. At the time my car was at 385,000 kms. After some research a starting point was to confirm if the ignition coils were good. One of the coils was suspect, While I was at it I decided to replace all four coils with new NGK's and new spark plugs. The plugs were due to be replaced anyway. After replacing the coils and plugs the problem was still there I then found a YouTube video where another guy had success in relearning the crank position sensor. I purchased a FOXWELL bi directional scanner and was able to relearn the crank position sensor. The car started up right away. I was able to delete all the codes and drive it in the city and on the highway. After 3000 km of driving the problem has not returned. Also the car's performance is back to as new, the plugs and coils made a big difference the acceleration is just unbelievable. For those of you that are still having the problem I would certainly try to do a crank position relearn. I believe my problem started many years ago after having a new starter installed from Napa. I read somewhere that non-OEM starters or rebuilt could be a problem and that a relearn of the crank position sensor should be completed.