DIY oil change
DIY oil change
After 9800 miles, my oil change warning came on. Any advise on changing the oil yourself. Does the filter require a special wrench, where is the filter, do you need to take the bottom defuser off, or can you access it from the top? Is there a place you need to extra protect for oil runoff?
After 9800 miles, my oil change warning came on. Any advise on changing the oil yourself. Does the filter require a special wrench, where is the filter, do you need to take the bottom defuser off, or can you access it from the top? Is there a place you need to extra protect for oil runoff?
Filter requires a small band-type wrench to remove.
The Bottom Defuser/Noise Shield does need to come off, six bolts IIRC.
No extra protection required for oil run-off.
Reset the Oil Warning per Owners Manual.
HeavyDuty: I was thinking, when pros do your oil change they put the car on the lift. For DIY, is it OK that the car is at an angle and not level sitting on jack stands?
I have been doing my own car maintenance for over 25 years and tune up used to mean spark plugs, points and condenser, oil and filter, PCV, timing, air filter change etc).
TSX is the first car that I let the dealer do all the maintenance, part of the reason is time (with two kids under 10 years of age) and the other is the reasonable rate my dealer charged for the service.
Having said that, I looked at the owner's manual and DIY oil change for the TSX doesn't seem too onerous.
Make sure you have jack stands supporting your car before going underneath it. Also, make sure you clean the surface area of the oil filter connection and put a light coat of engine oil on the rubber seal of the new filter before installing it (to ensure a proper seal). I usually drained the oil for 10 minutes (the engine is hot- to ensure oil flow), then put the drain plug back on, pour 1/3 quart oil in on top, let drain again. When you see clean oil coming out, you know most if not all the old oil has been drained out. Sorry for the long note but someone mentioned this is his first DIY oil change.
TSX is the first car that I let the dealer do all the maintenance, part of the reason is time (with two kids under 10 years of age) and the other is the reasonable rate my dealer charged for the service.
Having said that, I looked at the owner's manual and DIY oil change for the TSX doesn't seem too onerous.
Make sure you have jack stands supporting your car before going underneath it. Also, make sure you clean the surface area of the oil filter connection and put a light coat of engine oil on the rubber seal of the new filter before installing it (to ensure a proper seal). I usually drained the oil for 10 minutes (the engine is hot- to ensure oil flow), then put the drain plug back on, pour 1/3 quart oil in on top, let drain again. When you see clean oil coming out, you know most if not all the old oil has been drained out. Sorry for the long note but someone mentioned this is his first DIY oil change.
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^^ You are welcome. It's fun to work on your own ride (if you have time).
This site goes over the basic on oil and filter change, have a look through before working on your car. http://www.wikihow.com/Change-the-Oil-in-Your-Car
This site goes over the basic on oil and filter change, have a look through before working on your car. http://www.wikihow.com/Change-the-Oil-in-Your-Car
just logged on. thank you... for all your reply...
yes, i don't know how to do it...
step by step if it's ok??
and is there like a manual with a picture??
just like building an ikea cabinet or table???
i just don't wanna miss any screw or etc....
thanks again... 19,852 miles... 20% oil...
yes, i don't know how to do it...
step by step if it's ok??
and is there like a manual with a picture??
just like building an ikea cabinet or table???
i just don't wanna miss any screw or etc....
thanks again... 19,852 miles... 20% oil...
I don't know the location of our drain plug, like if it's on the front of the pan or rear. Usually I'd think they were located so that when raised from the front it would drain backwards. I doubt you'd be able to get enough of an angle to impede flow.
So I finally went and did the DIY oil change. Overall I'd say the process is simple but as always when doing things for the first time, it can get nerve wracking when you're not sure what to expect. Here are some things that I encountered and will learn from for next time:
1. I'm very glad I went and bought the 65mm filter wrench (07AAA-PLCA100) from HandA. I would not have been able to remove the old filter without it.
2. There is quite a bit of truth to dealership service department horror stories. In my case, the drain bolt was on so tight that I accidentally broke my 15 quart dish tray when I finally broke the plug loose. Luckily only one side of the tray cracked and I was able to tilt it to keep the majority of the oil from spilling out. Also, one of the bolts that holds the bottom cover was missing. I can't confirm if that was neglected to be put back on by the dealer or whether it just fell off over time.
3. It takes forever for the oil to drain out. After you get the drain plug off the oil just sort of "waterfalls" out, but when that's finished it's just drip drip drip drip drip forever. I did what 09TSXTech suggested and poured some clean oil in to help the old oil drain out but it still took a long time, so I just waited 10 minutes and then put the plug back in.
4. I was planning to get a face mask per the lesson I learned during my tire rotation but I got impatient and figured it wouldn't take very long. Well, as I spilled my oil I had to clean it up and as a result I inhaled a bunch of the spent oil fumes and boy did it make me sick. It's the smell you sometimes get when you follow an old car. I never knew that was the spent oil smell but now I know.
So, was it worth doing it by myself? I'm not sure. If I take it to Acura for $70 I can just chill in their lounge and drink Peet's coffee while I wait about an hour. I don't have to get my clothes dirty and I don't have to figure out where to dispose of the old oil.
At the same time, I know I torqued my drain plug to exactly 29 lb-ft and I'll order the missing bolt for the bottom cover and I used Mobil 1 and a Percolator filter which would be more than the $70 from the dealer.
I'd say it's a toss up and it all depends on whether you feel like doing it on a given day. At this moment I'm thinking next time I'll just bring the Mobil 1 and Percolator to the dealer, but maybe after 5000 miles I'll feel differently.
In summary, I'm glad I did it because now I know it's a piece of cake and I know where my money's going each time I take it to someone else. I'll just have to decide whether I want to continue doing it in the future.
1. I'm very glad I went and bought the 65mm filter wrench (07AAA-PLCA100) from HandA. I would not have been able to remove the old filter without it.
2. There is quite a bit of truth to dealership service department horror stories. In my case, the drain bolt was on so tight that I accidentally broke my 15 quart dish tray when I finally broke the plug loose. Luckily only one side of the tray cracked and I was able to tilt it to keep the majority of the oil from spilling out. Also, one of the bolts that holds the bottom cover was missing. I can't confirm if that was neglected to be put back on by the dealer or whether it just fell off over time.
3. It takes forever for the oil to drain out. After you get the drain plug off the oil just sort of "waterfalls" out, but when that's finished it's just drip drip drip drip drip forever. I did what 09TSXTech suggested and poured some clean oil in to help the old oil drain out but it still took a long time, so I just waited 10 minutes and then put the plug back in.
4. I was planning to get a face mask per the lesson I learned during my tire rotation but I got impatient and figured it wouldn't take very long. Well, as I spilled my oil I had to clean it up and as a result I inhaled a bunch of the spent oil fumes and boy did it make me sick. It's the smell you sometimes get when you follow an old car. I never knew that was the spent oil smell but now I know.
So, was it worth doing it by myself? I'm not sure. If I take it to Acura for $70 I can just chill in their lounge and drink Peet's coffee while I wait about an hour. I don't have to get my clothes dirty and I don't have to figure out where to dispose of the old oil.
At the same time, I know I torqued my drain plug to exactly 29 lb-ft and I'll order the missing bolt for the bottom cover and I used Mobil 1 and a Percolator filter which would be more than the $70 from the dealer.
I'd say it's a toss up and it all depends on whether you feel like doing it on a given day. At this moment I'm thinking next time I'll just bring the Mobil 1 and Percolator to the dealer, but maybe after 5000 miles I'll feel differently.
In summary, I'm glad I did it because now I know it's a piece of cake and I know where my money's going each time I take it to someone else. I'll just have to decide whether I want to continue doing it in the future.
Good job MrOtocinclus
I am not sure how much you paid for the purolator filter, but Honda part # 15400-PLM-A01 cost around $5 is a very good filter made by Filtech. I heard the newer filters Honda part # 15400-PLM-A02 which is made by Honeywell/Fram are not as good.
In terms DIY or let someone else do the work, it's a tossup. You know the material cost at Acura is probably less the $20, but you do not have to get dirty. A lot of them offer express oil/filter change for around $35.
I am not sure how much you paid for the purolator filter, but Honda part # 15400-PLM-A01 cost around $5 is a very good filter made by Filtech. I heard the newer filters Honda part # 15400-PLM-A02 which is made by Honeywell/Fram are not as good.
In terms DIY or let someone else do the work, it's a tossup. You know the material cost at Acura is probably less the $20, but you do not have to get dirty. A lot of them offer express oil/filter change for around $35.
Thanks guys... here's another update:
I went to the dealer this morning thinking I could get the rest of the B1 service done (brake and other inspections) and the service advisor told me to save my money and just wait until my next code shows up in the MID. Wow! He said to just bring in the oil and filter next time.
I'm happy that I saved some money but I'm still a little anxious about the inspections. Some people in the forum have said that they don't really do anything, that it's an "inspection" *wink* *wink* *nudge* *nudge* but to me it seems prudent to at least check out the brakes to make sure everything is fine. What do you guys think? Am I being overanxious? Even the service advisor said that since I only have 10,000 miles I shouldn't have to worry.
Well, here's a plug for my dealer: Oakland Acura. Go there and get great service!
P.S. My car purrrs now with the Mobil-1, Purolator, and BG-44K treatment.
I went to the dealer this morning thinking I could get the rest of the B1 service done (brake and other inspections) and the service advisor told me to save my money and just wait until my next code shows up in the MID. Wow! He said to just bring in the oil and filter next time.
I'm happy that I saved some money but I'm still a little anxious about the inspections. Some people in the forum have said that they don't really do anything, that it's an "inspection" *wink* *wink* *nudge* *nudge* but to me it seems prudent to at least check out the brakes to make sure everything is fine. What do you guys think? Am I being overanxious? Even the service advisor said that since I only have 10,000 miles I shouldn't have to worry.
Well, here's a plug for my dealer: Oakland Acura. Go there and get great service!
P.S. My car purrrs now with the Mobil-1, Purolator, and BG-44K treatment.
Last edited by MrOtocinclus; Nov 24, 2009 at 12:28 PM. Reason: P.S.
It depends on how much they charge for an inspection. Or, if you feel like learning more about your car, get a factory service manual from the dealer and it will walk you through inspection of your brake system and *everything* else.
There will be a few tools to buy, and a set of mic's or calipers to measure rotor thickness and pad thickness would be nice to have. You can pick them up pretty cheap at most auto parts stores.
The thoroughness of the inspection at the dealer depends on the tech. It is still new, but stuff can be mis-installed when building it or damaged in shipment, or from use, whatever.
There will be a few tools to buy, and a set of mic's or calipers to measure rotor thickness and pad thickness would be nice to have. You can pick them up pretty cheap at most auto parts stores.
The thoroughness of the inspection at the dealer depends on the tech. It is still new, but stuff can be mis-installed when building it or damaged in shipment, or from use, whatever.
Great thread on changing oil. I've been changing my own oil for years and plan on changing it in my 2010 TSX V-6. I use nothing but synthetic and don't mind getting a little dirty. Some points I'd like to point out that others might have glossed over.
#1 Always, and I mean always, make positively certain that the the oil filter gasket comes off with the old filter. If it sticks on the engine block, get it off. Miss this and you will have a huge mess at a minimum. Worse would be destroying your engine. I seem to have to relearn this about every 10 yrs myself.
#2 The technician at my dealership said the oil plug washer is designed to collapse when tightened so it should be replaced at each oil change.
Hope this helps.
#1 Always, and I mean always, make positively certain that the the oil filter gasket comes off with the old filter. If it sticks on the engine block, get it off. Miss this and you will have a huge mess at a minimum. Worse would be destroying your engine. I seem to have to relearn this about every 10 yrs myself.
#2 The technician at my dealership said the oil plug washer is designed to collapse when tightened so it should be replaced at each oil change.
Hope this helps.
I changed my oil and rotated my tires for the first time, on my 2010 TSX, the other day and found out some very interesting things...
Number A) My TSX sits WAY lower than my old 08 Accord...I couldn't use my automotive ramps...FML.
Number B) The oil filter cap that I used to remove the filter fit the factory oil filter but not the oil filter that I got from Honda.
Number C) Honda has now switched to Synthetic Oil....
Overall...DIY oil changes are fun, theraputic, gets you time away from the wife, and, as Nepolean Dynamite says "girls only likes guys with great skills."
*and yes...I do realize I said numbers a-c"
Number A) My TSX sits WAY lower than my old 08 Accord...I couldn't use my automotive ramps...FML.
Number B) The oil filter cap that I used to remove the filter fit the factory oil filter but not the oil filter that I got from Honda.
Number C) Honda has now switched to Synthetic Oil....
Overall...DIY oil changes are fun, theraputic, gets you time away from the wife, and, as Nepolean Dynamite says "girls only likes guys with great skills."
*and yes...I do realize I said numbers a-c"
new members always welcome.
small piece of advice that some people could use, aZine isnt as uptight as some other car forums are. The mods here are pretty chill and the people are cool too. Occasionally we get some jackasses that cant take a joke but that's the luck of the draw
ecko508, i am looking at you. You should just block me for real, you are a fucking moron
small piece of advice that some people could use, aZine isnt as uptight as some other car forums are. The mods here are pretty chill and the people are cool too. Occasionally we get some jackasses that cant take a joke but that's the luck of the draw
ecko508, i am looking at you. You should just block me for real, you are a fucking moron
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