ttk5

It's too late and I'm too tired right now to say the full story, but if you have the P2R ported intake runners for the i4 8th accord, do not attempt to DIY installing it unless you have a dremel/grinder and lots of patience. I used this guide to help,

http://www./forums/showthread.php?t=57532

and it was useful, but his descriptions are very vague and you will have to do the work finding each screw and deciding how many extra screws you want to remove to create more work space and leverage to make the job easier.

I started at 3pm today with 2 buddies of mine and we finished at 12midnight. This included 3 trips to a local Rona cause we didnt have a dremel, had to buy one, later, had to buy a new bit and a new wrench. We also had to learn how to use a dremel for the first time.

You have to dremel or some how grind down a corner of the existing runner before you can even attempt to remove it. Then, you must dremel the same spots on your new P2R runner in order to be able to fit it in. The Accord has the alternator assembly in a different spot, but in our TSX, the alternator assembly is located really close to the runners and so it gets in the way.

Anyways, we didn't have all the right tools to start and never tried any thing like this, so it took us a lot longer than anticipated. Just throwing out a heads up for any one who thought this DIY could be a quick simple install.

ed_423

any reviews on it?

outersquare

Something doesn't add up here, the K24Z3 accord and TSX both have the exact same part number for the runners (injector base). You shouldn't have to dremel anything to get it to fit.

ttk5

Its not the runner itself that doesnt fit...the runners line up just fine. But other engine components, mainly the alternator assembly (i think thats what its called), is in a different location in the TSX compared to the accord. When trying to remove the stock runners, the corner of it hits the top of the alternator assembly, making it impossible to remove. So we had to shave off some metal from the stock runner to be able to pull it out. Then when putting in the P2R runner, again, we couldn't fit it in because of the alternator assembly in the way. Thus, we had to dremel the same spot on the corner to be able to fit it in. I did not completely remove the intake manifold or disconnect the throttle body and fuel rail completely. Perhaps if you took everything out, you would have the leverage to angle the stock runner out without dremeling anything. But it seemed like we had enough wiggle room to try every possible angle and we still could not angle the runner out. again, the runner fits great. Its the other engine components that get in the way of its removal.

I will try and get a review out soon but Im really busy this week. For now, I can say that a power increase is not immediately noticeable, however it has drastically improved throttle lag especially when downshifting. Also, it has changed the sound of the rasp created by my RV6 downpipe and test pipe. Too early to say much more, all I did so far was drive the car home. Mods like these though are always better with a tune..

thunderbt3

Is it possible to loosen/remove the alternator assembly to get it out of the way? The factory must've had the intake assembly on the engine first before the alternator was assembled otherwise it would be impossible to assemble the intake with the alternator in place.

ttk5

We tried to move the alternator some how but its practically impossible. Its bolted down hard in dark spots we cant even reach.

Other words of caution for people installing this.

1) As soon as you open up the intake manifold and start working to remove the stock air runners, use paper towel to stuff all the cylinders, or a towel to cover the cylinders on the intake manifold and runners. You dont want any debris or substances to accidentally fall in there and ef shit up once you start the engine up. In our case, we mainly did not want metal shavings from dremeling to fall into the head or intake manifold.

2) There was fuel in the engine bay from undoing the fuel line on the fuel rail. So if your a smoker or plan on dremeling like we did, watch out for sparks and stuff and make sure to wash your hands so you dont get gasoline in your eyes n stuff.

3) Since you lose a lot of coolant during the install, have extra coolant to refill you tank once the DIY is done. And as much as you may want to, dont drive too too hard for the next while cause I just did that and the dial on my engine temperature gauge shot up to "H" within minutes. Drive regularly to get the coolant flowing throughout the tubes once again and squeeze the coolant lines to ensure there are no air bubbles or anything that can create a blockage in coolant flow.

outersquare

did you ever post a review?

axionindustries

You dont have to dremel anything. I got everything off with just the right angle and then for putting the RRC manifold back on or the standard manifold, just back out the stud on the head nearest to the alt. This will give you the room to reinstall the manifold.

fn 2 awsum

Yup thats exactly what i did for the RSP swap.

ttk5

^ damn...i did it the hard way...real hard way

axionindustries

Oh well, you took some weight off