Would I be able to replace my primary oem narrowband O2 sensor with a wideband sensor and have it work with the ecu?
I want to be able to keep a oem appearance with the ability to datalog with flashpro.
How do you guys have your wideband setup?

 

ssjoeboe9 has a how to do this in this very forum. I believe it's in the flashpro calibration thread.

 

It's actually linked below:

https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...nd-ecu-920358/

It's a really good guide

 

Thanks guys. There are a lot of good threads on here that aren't stickied. Whats up with that? Its like buried.

 

Does this replace your primary sensor or do you have to drill and weld a third bung?

 

No moderators ever sticky anything...

We have a DIY sticky, but it never gets updated. I think the wideband DIY is like my 4th or 5th DIY lol.

Acurazine should give me a sticker or something right?

And to answer your question, I used the secondary bung on the RV6 downpipe. The only purpose of the seconday O2 sensor is to measure the efficiency of the CAT. Sense you are running Hondata FP anyways,it makes no sense to keep secondary O2 sensor. Replace it with your wideband sensor... if you ask if you can place a wideband sensor behind a CAT then you shouldn't be doing this mod in the first place.

 

Maybe I should rephrase...

You have to keep your primary sensor untouched. Your car won't know what to do if it doesn't know the A/F ratio at which it's combusting.

You install a wideband sensor for 2 reasons:
1. It's a fail safe to ensure your primary is reading correctly
2. It has a wider range of voltage reading; meaning it can read extreme high/low voltages. This occurs in Forced induction cars.

So now I gotta ask..Are you boosting your car? Or do you just want gauges to look at?

 

A little history about me. I'm coming from having a 93 boosted gsr turbo 400hp done to the nines with a wideband and custom chipped ecu. Safe to say, I know my way around. Now i have a 12 tsx, things have certainly changed with today's cars and tuning. Going from burning roms on a chip to reflashing ecus.
So with that said, I am planning to supercharge this spring, Ct-e. I am a bit older now but I still have a FI bug. Not looking to build another race car. Just supercharge with an oem feel.

 

Then def follow the guide that I wrote (get an RV6 downpipe with installed wideband in seconday position) and you'll be a happy camper. Im SC'd and this setup has worked well for me!

PM me, I have something that will make hooking up the wideband easier (if you're interested)

 

Im definitely going to go that way. I already have the rv6 downpipe along with the high flow cat and the vibrant resonator. Thats it for exhaust.
My next concern would be passing emissions testing with the secondary o2 sensor disabled.

 

Yeah I doubt you'll be able to pass emissions, but you could always throw back on the OEM downpipe when it comes time.

 

You might be able to pass emissions with the downpipe. But with HFC, I'm not too sure. I know people who have passed emissions with PCDs and stock secondary cat without issues. However, I honestly don't know how "to the book" these places are, so YMMV. Worst case is put your stock cat back on for the test. Kind of a pain in the ass though.

 

Are you guys talking about visual inspection? That can be "over looked" if the odb2 part passes. Im more worried about the odb2 part not passing. NJ allowes two "not ready" sensors.
An inspection guy told me that just as long at the computer passes, im fine.

 

I have yet to throw a CEL with PCD. Stock secondary cat though

Depending on the shop you goto, you might fail visual if the person knows the TSX well enough to expect a pre-cat and a secondary cat. But as long as he sees a secondary cat (maybe your HFC will do), you are likely to pass visual.

 

After some reading, I decided to use a plx devices kit and replacing the primary oem narrowband with the plx wideband. Since this is only going to be used for the tuning stage, it will be temporary. I would have to hook up the wideband and narrowband outputs to the ecu. Once tuning is complete, wideband comes out and oem narrowband gets put back in.
This setup is confirmed by hondata for datalogging.

 

If you end up boosting your car, you might want a less-than-temporary wideband solution.

 

What do you mean?

 

I think a lotta guys that are boosted like to run the wideband sensor even when they're "done" tuning their setup, simply to show them in real time whether something unexpected (and bad) is happening. I've never been boosted, so I'm just speculating, but isn't this also why a wideband gauge (and perhaps other less temporary solutions) is used in boosted vehicles (from the factory and aftermarket)?

Your solution would be great for tuning, but I think you should keep using the wideband even when you're "done" tuning as well, just for peace of mind. Of course I might just be wrong... but I think I'd like to keep it if it were me.

 

I see your logic and I do agree. If the solution I decided on works, I might just leave it in. I just hope that the narrowband output wire to the ecu is not simulated and is outputting the actual exhaust readings.
If that's the case, I might just leave it in. Especially since the gauge has an oled display. It just looks cool

 

Man idk... I would be concerned that the ECU only recognizes a narrowband signal. Maybe I'm wrong, and if Hondata says it works then ok. I just think most people would do that (replacing narrow band with wideband sensor) and call it a day right? I think there is a reason that they make you replace an existing pin and force hondata to look at that voltage from the replaced pin and use it for wideband input. Im just thinking out loud. You can always start a thread on hondata website. they are good with responding to questions.

BTW, what do your gauges look like. I love the new OLED technology. Please post pics, and also update in the boosted thread.

 

There is both a norrowband and wideband output. so you replace both pins in the ecu. Basically, the ecu will still have a narrowband wire input but its just coming from the wideband control module.

https://www.hondata.com/techplxwiring.html

 

wait.... that's exactly what I did in my DIY. I thought you just wanted to replace the O2 sensor with a wideband sensor and connect an adapter harness to the OEM harness.

My DIY you take out the ELD pin and replace with the new wideband pin, Now in Hondata FP manager you will see OE (first O2 sensor A/F ratio) and your Wideband A/F ratio. It won't matter what the OE one really says because during tuning your tuner will take into account what the wideband is reading instead of the OE first O2 sensor.

Are we on the same page? I think we are talking about the same thing...


EDIT--- I never used the narrow band input from the new wideband module, there's no real need since that's what your primary sensor is already doing. To me (my two cents) you're doing more work for no gain. Just replacing the secondary sensor with a new wideband and connecting to the ELD should be sufficient. I don't see any reason to do what you are suggesting. I think that was a guide for vehicles that only had 1 sensor, back in da day.

 

In addition to your diy, I would also hook up the plx narrowband output to the ecu. That way I don't have to go under that car to replace the secondary o2 and also having to disable it which will mess with emission testing. I would only need to replace the primary o2 which is much easier to get to.
I believe that this could be a permanent install or temporary.

 

I was under the impression you were going to install a down pipe, but I understand what you are saying about emissions and only wanting to replace primary without dealing with the secondary sensor.

To make your life easier, I would make a harness connector that mates to the OEM sensor and then you only need to route one wideband output to the ECU ELD. I was so frsutrated trying to get that stupid pin out on the ECU side... I literally said at the end "Thank God, I only have to do one of these things!"

 

Well I do have a downpipe. Yeah, I'll be ready for that harness part and if I don't have those pins, I'll sure be contacting you!

 

Ok so if you have the downpipe then I don't understand the comment about going under the car. My car threw CEL with downpipe and oem sensors. There is no guarantee you will/won't have the same problem. So if you're going down the "staying emissions friendly" route then I would say keep oem exhaust and hook up the wideband as you are saying.

If you're putting the downpipe on and possibly forgoing the emissions stuff, then there is no benefit in wiring it the way you suggested. Save the hassle and only connect to the ELD with your new wideband sensor in the second bung of the downpipe.

 

What we have here.... is failure to communicate.