Just a quick question on how big the difference of the sound is :o I'll be waiting to hear more of your input about any gains or anything.

Also, are you furythree from OzHonda ^?

 

Yeah I was really surprised at the sound, it's been a while since I have had my resonator removed but if I were to compare sounds I would say it's pretty close to what it sounds like stock. And Yeah I am going to go for another drive this afternoon... It's really hard to gauge when something that used to be so auditory isn't there anymore. Plays tricks on you, so again I'll drive it and hopefully have a clearer analysis since I know what to expect. Plus it may take time for the ECU to completely adjust to more airflow.

 

Noob question: Can ALL intakes change from SRI to CAI? Or does it depend on which one you get etc etc? Because I'm a little confused about some people saying they change from SRI to CAI depending on the seasons.
A guy selling a Takeda intake was like to me $585 for long and $425 for short (SRI) and I didn't want to look like a noob so I didn't ask him.. So does he mean CAI when he says 'long'?

Thanks guys.

 

not all intakes can do that. for example, the CT ice box can not. but intakes such as injen or takeda can change from SRI to CAI. so yes, it depends on which one you get

and i think the guy does mean CAI when he says "long". but the takeda should be able to change both ways...unless hes trying to screw u over by charging u extra for the long tube for CAI mode...

 

No clue.. All the text said was 'long intake or short? 425 was short ram.' So yeah... I think that's the cheapest I'm going to get here in Australia so might as well grab it. $425 AUD for a Takeda SRI and I can change it to CAI if I want right?

And thanks Ed. Thumbs up

 

I am not 100% sure though, since they are charging you different prices for the cai and the sri. in the US, we just get the intake and it comes with both tube, one for sri, and one for cai. so i think you should either call and ask or find another shop.

good luck man!

 

So I have my final conclusion.... It has definitely made a difference. Of course the most noticeable is at Vtec. I would say it was an overall success. I would tell you how much I gained but you really think Ima pay for the dyno?? Fun mod, pretty easy and gained a couple horseys on the way. Happy modding

 

Ohh, so all it is is a 3" pipe just like yours and we're good to go? If so, I might give it a shot o-o

 

yup, dont know what the local hardware store is down under, but just fit some piping together and you are good to go. By the way, I used the rubber fitting that is attached to the resonator. Although it was slightly loose it hasn't caused any problems yet. If it does somehow slip off I'll just get some sealant and it should do the trick. Oh, and go ahead and by a K&N high flow filter....

 

Would it have any affect if I didn't have the K&N high flow filter?

 

Yeah you would most likely still feel gains. Just gives you a little more airflow with the cotton filter than the paper filter. hey, try it out, wont hurt anything!

 

Will do. How much did your PVC pipe cost? Because I don't even have a ROUGH idea of how much it'll cost lol.

 

Don't take this wrong way but looking at last pic , your second pipe connection looks like it might be smaller diameter than the OEM downpipe to resonator . Did you measure that to make sure your not smaller .
you could not of made it all one size as the top, first section that the rubber coupler is on ?
Then have the 90 deg elbow on the outer diameter or they don't make them that size .

 

It was about $12 total including $4 for the paint lol.

EdK- It's all the same size, look at some of the older photos I posted before I put it on. They make couplars so that you can fit everything together without constricting your tube by inserting a smaller pipe. I mean how else would they do plumbing?

 

Ahh, I see ,At first I thought the straight section was made up of 2 pieces , I see what your saying .
I guess the problem I am seeing is just the thickness and how PVC piping is available . To bad there not thinner walled stuff .

 

Yeah the wall thickness does kinda add to the overall bulk. But this was made more for fluid flow... and a lot of it at that. so thats why it's made that thick. Someone else made the comment about using rubber hosing, like the one that comes off of the throttle body. That would work as well but probably a lot harder to find.

 

Euronoob: yes im from ozhonda

ssjoe: im glad that it has made some difference!
do u have a higher res foto of that first post you made of the resonator diagram. did you really remove ALL of those parts u erased?

is the gain that u feel at low end or mid to high?
and have u confirmed whether the sound is quieter?

 

I kinda threw that picture together myself lol. But if you go to acurapartssuperstore.com they have almost every single part exploded and mapped out. pretty cool actually ( and they give prices next to each oem part and any acura dealership will match it; just a tip if some of guys happen to lose small parts while working on your car) As far as removing all of the parts, if you look it only like a total of 5 bolts. Once you remove the resonator they no longer serve a purpose. The gain is definitely at high end, its like vtec kicks that much harder. I'm not an overly agressive driver, but I won't go as far as saying I drive casually either, and it seems like I get to that 60mph so much faster than before. I look at the speedometer and see 60mph and frown that I already have to slow down haha. It def. sounded meaner with no resonator or anything, but louder isn't faster. And don't get me wrong, it's still louder than what it was originally...