CTE Icebox - Ongoing problem

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Old Jul 1, 2010 | 02:10 PM
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CTE Icebox - Ongoing problem

I had removed the Icebox from my car because of the problem I was having with the Air inlet tube velocity stack not staying connected to the ice box itself.

I reinstalled it yesterday and found two things:

No matter how hard I tried I could not get the supplied bracket to line up with the suggest mounting hole on the frame; when the air inlet tube was snug with the icebox the bracket ended up lining up with the factory bolt just above the suggested hole.

I'm still getting the braaap sound when accelerating hard under load in 3rd or higher.

HeavyDuty if you read this you were having the same sound.

I'm assuming the intake for the air inlet tube is supposed to face forward and not to the headlight?

I've done CAI's on all of my cars and I must say this one has been the most frustrating.

Any help of any kind would be appreciated.

Thanks.
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 05:53 AM
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I had the braaap sound also when stepping hard on it.

It comes from the carbon fiber cover which is too thin and vibrates when high flow air is aspired.

I found a solution which almost solves this inconveniece.

You need to take the cover off and stick on its back a rectangulat pice of some material to make it rigid and limit vibrations.

I have found in house super-stores rectangular material (around 5 mm thick) sticky on one side designed for puting it on the botom side of the furniture in order not to scratch the floor. I took one, cut it to fit on the CAI cover and sticked it on the inside part. Much better now.
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 11:35 AM
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Thanks for the info. I removed the cover all together and the noise is gone. It's now louder then if I had the cover on but still not as loud as the resonator delete or a SRI/CAI.

I must say I was expecting much better overall quality from CTE.
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Old Jul 3, 2010 | 11:46 PM
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Originally Posted by cata_mahu
I had the braaap sound also when stepping hard on it.

It comes from the carbon fiber cover which is too thin and vibrates when high flow air is aspired.

I found a solution which almost solves this inconveniece.

You need to take the cover off and stick on its back a rectangulat pice of some material to make it rigid and limit vibrations.

I have found in house super-stores rectangular material (around 5 mm thick) sticky on one side designed for puting it on the botom side of the furniture in order not to scratch the floor. I took one, cut it to fit on the CAI cover and sticked it on the inside part. Much better now.
Are the vibrations due to the cover clanging the box due to reverberations or just due to it flexing from strain (like a guitar string I guess)? I don't really hear any brappp sound like you guys describe, but I did notice that the the screws for one of the cover was useless because the hole for the screw was stripped (screw would keep turning). Otherwise this thing is super quiet, and I like the extra power at lower RPMs
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Old Jul 4, 2010 | 02:08 AM
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It is from the cover flexing. Like a sheet of curved plastic pushed on the convex part and it makes tac-tac when it flexes and comes back. Increase the frequnecy of this and it is the braaap sound.

It is not not a noisy intake, the sound is only at low revs. For ex when you give a short full throttle from idle or when you want to accelerate hard in a gear which normally would need downshifting.

I also like driving with the cover removed and enjoy the sound but when it's hot outside i think it is more efficient to put it back on in order to get colder air.

Last edited by cata_mahu; Jul 4, 2010 at 02:13 AM.
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Old Jul 4, 2010 | 09:26 PM
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Mine's been perfectly fine. I have the extra clamp in place and not once has the air horn popped off of the box with the extra clamp in place and everything installed and lined up perfectly for me.

I also find it extremely unlikely that it's the CF lid causing any noise. With all 4 screws in place, I don't see a feasible way that a piece of fairly rigid fiberglass would flex or move enough to allow a noticeable amount of air through. If you're hearing something, the sound has to be coming from elsewhere, not the CF lid.
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Old Jul 5, 2010 | 12:59 AM
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Man, I studyed the problem and even found a remedy for this. Believe me, it is the CF lid.

With the hood opened I stepped on the gas and saw the lid vibrating. I even asked someone to keep his hand on the CF lid and stepped on it again, no braap this time. The screws are tight enough, it is the first thing I checked cause I'am an engineer not a poet. The CF lid is simply not rigid enough.

I don't say that yours is doing this, but as you see there are some confirming the same issue.

Last edited by cata_mahu; Jul 5, 2010 at 01:04 AM.
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Old Jul 5, 2010 | 03:39 AM
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Does anyone know how to fix a screw hole not being able to screw tightly? I just took my car for a hard ride and i hear clanging due to one corner of the lid not being able to be screwed in. I think theres the threading on the icebox itself is stripped and I was wondering if there is any way I can fix that (some epoxy or something stiff I can stick down the hole to fill and then screw in?).
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Old Jul 5, 2010 | 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by cata_mahu
Man, I studyed the problem and even found a remedy for this. Believe me, it is the CF lid.

With the hood opened I stepped on the gas and saw the lid vibrating. I even asked someone to keep his hand on the CF lid and stepped on it again, no braap this time. The screws are tight enough, it is the first thing I checked cause I'am an engineer not a poet. The CF lid is simply not rigid enough.

I don't say that yours is doing this, but as you see there are some confirming the same issue.
I can tell you're an engineer and not a poet because I too can't spell for shit..."studyed"

I'm also an engineer (not mechanical though...electrical). I'm just astounded that there would be enough airflow and pressure in the airbox to allow the CF cover to flex. Mine doesn't flex at all as I've never heard any odd sounding variations in the sound of the intake throughout the entire powerband.
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Old Jul 5, 2010 | 11:44 AM
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Having had my the longest I have never had any problems. We have also installed 3 of these on local cars without any problems. (At least that I have heard of. Luchin next time you are down here drop by and I can have my guys look at it for you.
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Old Jul 5, 2010 | 01:42 PM
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My cover flexes quite a bit from corner to corner. I purchased a 5X5 piece of furniture padding and stuck it to the bottom side of the lid like cata_mahu suggested and the noise is completely gone.

As for the air horn, I'm at a loss. The only thing I can think is that I've installed the air horn too high on the air box. I will be looking at this again in the next couple of days. That said I've secured the air horn to the box with a clamp and I've fabricated a bracket which works perfectly fine.

Sounds good Rob. I will probably have it figured out by then but will need a fender liner since I've torn mine at the bottom corner. So when you guys are installing that you can have a look. Don't pre order the liner though since I don't know when I will be in Seattle next. Might not be until mid Sept. Busy summer.
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Old Jul 5, 2010 | 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by DerwoodEE
Mine's been perfectly fine. I have the extra clamp in place and not once has the air horn popped off of the box with the extra clamp in place and everything installed and lined up perfectly for me.

I also find it extremely unlikely that it's the CF lid causing any noise. With all 4 screws in place, I don't see a feasible way that a piece of fairly rigid fiberglass would flex or move enough to allow a noticeable amount of air through. If you're hearing something, the sound has to be coming from elsewhere, not the CF lid.
Mine's has 10,000 km on it now, no problem with the air horn (I have the extra clamp suggested by Luchin).

No strange noises either, I looked under the hood this morning and rev the engine up, no flexing at all with the CF cover. May be defect in manufacturing with your CF cover.
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 11:22 AM
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so after reading this, I actually turned my sound off and listened to my car.. Definitely got a rattle.. So I open the hood and look at my intake.. The bottom right screw on the box.. no where to be found, the screw hole? Completely ripped out with the CF chipped on the top from the screw i'm assuming being ejected while driving.. Wtf chuck?
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Tishkevich
so after reading this, I actually turned my sound off and listened to my car.. Definitely got a rattle.. So I open the hood and look at my intake.. The bottom right screw on the box.. no where to be found, the screw hole? Completely ripped out with the CF chipped on the top from the screw i'm assuming being ejected while driving.. Wtf chuck?
Whoa. Is the threading still inside or did it get completely ripped off? Wow. Go claim warranty on that thing
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 01:55 PM
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yeah my question is do I call CT or do I call the vendor whom sold it to me?
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Tishkevich
yeah my question is do I call CT or do I call the vendor whom sold it to me?
Call CT. I doubt the vendor would be able to do anything about. I called CT before about my lid being loose. It turned out it I just needed longer screws. Anyways, they offered to look at the part for me if I took it outta my car and sent it back to them. They don't pay for the shipping costs though.
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Old Aug 17, 2010 | 11:06 PM
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well anyone got a good solution to this? I feel like if i buy a bigger screw to fill in the stripped hole.. its just going to blow out with the back pressure as well..
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Old Aug 17, 2010 | 11:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Tishkevich
well anyone got a good solution to this? I feel like if i buy a bigger screw to fill in the stripped hole.. its just going to blow out with the back pressure as well..
CT Engineering products has two years warranty.
http://www.ct-engineering.com/miscPD...ranty-Page.pdf

I would contact your vendor first if the purchase was less than 60 days, after that, go straight to CT.
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Old Aug 18, 2010 | 05:36 AM
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yeah... ct isnt real helpful
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Old Aug 19, 2010 | 12:33 AM
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The screws are getting loose to me also...
I thought about two solutions for this issue:

1. Longer screws to avoid losing them and some rubber washer to block them from slipping on th CF lid and also not to scratch it. Normally it would need a grover washer...

2. There is a blue paste used for blocking the screws from getting loose. Take the screws out, put little paste on it and then put them back in.
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Old Aug 20, 2010 | 05:26 PM
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how much hp does this intake give you im debating on getting one ?
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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 05:39 AM
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12 hp is the estimate i think so it says
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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 10:35 AM
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I haven't experienced a single issue since installing this unit. The only issue I had was I dropped one of the screws for the CF lid during the install and lost it. Picked up a bunch of extra new screws though just in case I lost any more in the future.

I assume it's time for me to clean my filter though. I need to buy the cleaner.
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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 10:56 AM
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yeah i need to buy the cleaner too.
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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Tishkevich
yeah i need to buy the cleaner too.
I just bought it. $11 plus shipping, not terrible.
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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 02:02 PM
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How's it work? Just open up the intake pull out the filter spray it with the cleaner, then let it dry? Then hit it with the oil?

Will it actually look clean?
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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Tishkevich
How's it work? Just open up the intake pull out the filter spray it with the cleaner, then let it dry? Then hit it with the oil?

Will it actually look clean?
Yes, yes, yes.
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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 09:38 PM
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haha great answer
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Old Sep 6, 2010 | 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Luchin
No matter how hard I tried I could not get the supplied bracket to line up with the suggest mounting hole on the frame; when the air inlet tube was snug with the icebox the bracket ended up lining up with the factory bolt just above the suggested hole.
I found out the exact same thing. It looks like the bracket is too long.

I didn't buy the extra clamp to hold the air horn in, but i bent the supplied bracket (too long) so the air horn can fit snug all the way up to the icebox. After a week of driving, I took off the bumper and it was still tight. I'm finally happy about the purchase.
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Old Sep 20, 2010 | 12:54 PM
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Hey guys,

Have had my TSX for a few months now and it's time for the mods!

After all your amazing posts (esp Luchin -- thanks!) I've definitely decided on the IceBox but I'm a little intimidated by the install required. I have zero experience with installing CAIs and dont' want to mess it up (especially with the unique steps required for the CT).

What are your thoughts on a mod-rookie tackling this? Is it worth it to get some assistance from a pro?

Anyone in the Toronto, Ontario region have someone they go to for this type of stuff?

Any help is super appreciated!
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Old Sep 20, 2010 | 01:19 PM
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I've only done short rams but looking at the steps it honestly looks pretty straight-forward. There are a lot of places around Toronto that will do it for you. Speedstar, OptionJDM, Speedtech, Gilman's just to name a few.
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Old Sep 20, 2010 | 03:30 PM
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Took me three hours because I removed the bumper and the entire intake (which involve removing the battery), while Luchin accessed through the left front wheel well and removed the resonator only, that probably saved at least an hour.
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Old Oct 8, 2011 | 04:00 PM
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Sorry to revive an old thread, but I too encountered the "braaap" issue that was resolved with a piece of adhesive felt stuck to the underside of the CF lid. Below is a video that I took while diagnosing the issue. You can sort of hear the "braaap" sound:

http://youtu.be/-I42hq4MPPw

Although the "braaap" is gone after the felt pad, it still flexes. I tested it by keeping it in P and just flooring it.
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Old Oct 8, 2011 | 04:49 PM
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did you do a slow mode at the end mroto? i thought somethign was wrong with my internet and lag it LOL
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Old Oct 8, 2011 | 04:53 PM
  #35  
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^Yes, sorry, I added a slow motion clip at the end.
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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 01:39 PM
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i also have the braap sound right right from the go if i floor it from a stand still. I actually did pay someone to install it and even they told me about the box flexing. Anyone think dynamat might be a good solution? i have an entire roll of it laying i could use.
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Tannis
i also have the braap sound right right from the go if i floor it from a stand still. I actually did pay someone to install it and even they told me about the box flexing. Anyone think dynamat might be a good solution? i have an entire roll of it laying i could use.
Yup, that would help.
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 07:27 PM
  #38  
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I just installed the Icebox 2 days ago. I'm going to try some adhesive lining to get rid of the braap sound. it looks like the lid is not air tight causing some air being drawn from the cracks leading to the braap sound. not too sure... but as it looks like, almost everyone who tried to put something in between the box and the lid got rid of the problem.

A separate observation... when i start the engine yesterday morning (1st full day after icebox install) and try to rev it, it kinda "feel" like the intake is blocked... it would take like a couple of heavy revving to get the throaty intake growl... and once it starts to growl like that, it stays like that for the whole day.
Next morning (today), same thing.

Did i install the air inlet tube the wrong way facing the side of the bumper? But looking at the pictures on the instruction/installation guide, it appears that i did it correctly. How did you guys position your air inlet tube?
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