CT-Engineering Supercharger
#81
I spoke with CTE last week. They say that the kit is making a pretty consistant 60whp. They MAY design a stage 2 kit, like on the civic that should put the car at around 320whp.
now with other mods with the supercharger, exhaust, intake, down pipe we should see higher gains.
in addition, we could also add water/meth which account for even higher gains
the say that the icebox should add about 10whp and that should be released mid oct.
now with other mods with the supercharger, exhaust, intake, down pipe we should see higher gains.
in addition, we could also add water/meth which account for even higher gains
the say that the icebox should add about 10whp and that should be released mid oct.
#82
WTH happened to my garage
IMHO, water injection was a necessary evil when we didn't have the management systems that we do now. It cooled the charge to ward off detonation, but we're talking 8 psi base and a possible increase to...10? Albeit replenishable, water injection is not something *most* people want to concern themselves with. I sure don't want to deal with it for a daily driver, you know?
In some other CTE apps, an icebox intake was part of the supercharger package.
http://www.ct-engineering.com/store/...percharger.jpg
IIRC, I think in the past there was a credit when buying the blower if you already had an icebox. Dunno about this application.
The thing about any power adder is that past a certain point any car becomes more of a chore than a pleasure to drive. As you build & build, other parts of the system begin to show their weakness. Clutch & driveline wear, motor mount premature wear, then the answers to those issues can make the car less fun to drive. The whole point of this stuff as spec'd is it's a car you put gas in, change the oil and that's it. There's a lot to be said for that.
#83
Yes, down pipe is a term generally used with turbo applications, as it connects from the turbo down to the cat (generally the cat is the end piece of a down pipe). Where a header is the exhaust manifold + the down pipe portion.
With our cars, the exhaust mani is actually part of the block, so it can not be changed as with other vehicles. This also makes me question exactly how a turbo could be done because generally the turbo connects the exhaust manifold to the down pipe...
water/meth: it is still very popular, the water portion helps with detination and the meth portion is like running race fuel and gives the extra octaine.
is it safe? from what i have read, it is safe and generally helps clean the engine. but because i am not sure, it is not something I would run around daily using. I would only switch it on days where im either going to the track or want that extra power.
On my old car, a vw gti (turbo) the kits allowed for it to be regulated via MAF or MAP (the senor located on the intercooler piping)
you also speak about motor mounts and other things wearing prematurly. That can be caused even by daily hard driving or even smaller bolt ons. The biggest thing I have experienced with my GTI when i went big turbo (from the stock tubro) was tuning was a pain! and that was a front wheel drive car and traction was an issue
with that car, as I am sure with our car, changing the motor, trans and dogbone mount made a big differance in wheel hop and gave better traction.
as companies release these types of products for our car, people will see that the CTE supercharger will be more than sufficent. Its not always about having a 500+whp dyno happy car...its more about having a fast, fun daily drivable car..and one of the biggest things is being able to deliver that power to the wheels
With our cars, the exhaust mani is actually part of the block, so it can not be changed as with other vehicles. This also makes me question exactly how a turbo could be done because generally the turbo connects the exhaust manifold to the down pipe...
water/meth: it is still very popular, the water portion helps with detination and the meth portion is like running race fuel and gives the extra octaine.
is it safe? from what i have read, it is safe and generally helps clean the engine. but because i am not sure, it is not something I would run around daily using. I would only switch it on days where im either going to the track or want that extra power.
On my old car, a vw gti (turbo) the kits allowed for it to be regulated via MAF or MAP (the senor located on the intercooler piping)
you also speak about motor mounts and other things wearing prematurly. That can be caused even by daily hard driving or even smaller bolt ons. The biggest thing I have experienced with my GTI when i went big turbo (from the stock tubro) was tuning was a pain! and that was a front wheel drive car and traction was an issue
with that car, as I am sure with our car, changing the motor, trans and dogbone mount made a big differance in wheel hop and gave better traction.
as companies release these types of products for our car, people will see that the CTE supercharger will be more than sufficent. Its not always about having a 500+whp dyno happy car...its more about having a fast, fun daily drivable car..and one of the biggest things is being able to deliver that power to the wheels
#84
WTH happened to my garage
I've always called the secondary portion (in these cases, the stainless secondary of a typical exh man the B pipe.) Then again, the term B Pipe also refers to the post cat exhaust section in front of the axle back. We're saying the same thing.
Water injection, as a side benefit, does clean the intake and combustion chamber. The thing about having it as a separately armed system would only really apply on a turbo system where a boost controller with a high setting might call for some cooling with higher boost levels. That wouldn't be the case with a pulley change. IE; not something you do on the fly. Although I could see it with a multi-programmed management system if you wanted to run additional timing for use with race fuel, but that gets back to street/hot street/track use. For the time being, I'm talking about daily driver use with *no* compromises and singular management for use with pump gas only.
Beyond a certain point tuning *does* become a pain, traction *does* become an issue and urethane inserts or hard, high durometer rated mounts are *not* something I'd be willing to put up with on this car. At idle there's so much vibration they jingle the change in your coin tray. Albeit off idle you can't tell at all other than the lack of movement under the hood at WOT driving which is the part I really enjoy using those types of mounts. The auxilliary hydraulic movement limiters as used on the RSX-S did work well without transferring too much vibration though. That might be an idea, if they're not already available for this car.
We're in agreement on most all of this stuff. There are some of us that haven't done all this before and some of this stuff should be taken with more than a tongue-in-cheek 'nudge-nudge wink-wink' "not for street use." Many people flock to non-street parts thinking only about the legal ramifications and not the trade-offs that are always present with *some* parts.
My mantra on a daily driver has always and will always be to build for relatively high horsepower with *no* compromises. I stop short of anything that would make me hesitant to drive my car to a client lunch, job interview, funeral or wedding without feeling like an overgrown kid. Then again, that's just me, in the past I've had more than my share of stuff that's inappropriate for any of the above. It depends on one's station in life and overall expectations.
Water injection, as a side benefit, does clean the intake and combustion chamber. The thing about having it as a separately armed system would only really apply on a turbo system where a boost controller with a high setting might call for some cooling with higher boost levels. That wouldn't be the case with a pulley change. IE; not something you do on the fly. Although I could see it with a multi-programmed management system if you wanted to run additional timing for use with race fuel, but that gets back to street/hot street/track use. For the time being, I'm talking about daily driver use with *no* compromises and singular management for use with pump gas only.
Beyond a certain point tuning *does* become a pain, traction *does* become an issue and urethane inserts or hard, high durometer rated mounts are *not* something I'd be willing to put up with on this car. At idle there's so much vibration they jingle the change in your coin tray. Albeit off idle you can't tell at all other than the lack of movement under the hood at WOT driving which is the part I really enjoy using those types of mounts. The auxilliary hydraulic movement limiters as used on the RSX-S did work well without transferring too much vibration though. That might be an idea, if they're not already available for this car.
We're in agreement on most all of this stuff. There are some of us that haven't done all this before and some of this stuff should be taken with more than a tongue-in-cheek 'nudge-nudge wink-wink' "not for street use." Many people flock to non-street parts thinking only about the legal ramifications and not the trade-offs that are always present with *some* parts.
My mantra on a daily driver has always and will always be to build for relatively high horsepower with *no* compromises. I stop short of anything that would make me hesitant to drive my car to a client lunch, job interview, funeral or wedding without feeling like an overgrown kid. Then again, that's just me, in the past I've had more than my share of stuff that's inappropriate for any of the above. It depends on one's station in life and overall expectations.
#85
Instructor
Thread Starter
I have heard a rumor that my car might be done this week. If so I will post Dyno numbers asap. It dosen't look like the 3.1 in pulley is going to work so we are hoping for the 3.3 in.
#87
heavy, i agree, i don't think on this car supper stiff mounts would be good, i am seeking power with still a nice firm ride, i dont like smooth butter rides nor do i want a muscle car ride either (not in this car)
i dont know much about acura parts, on my old car a vw. there were stage 1,2 and 3 mounts. stage 2 was the perfect median, with very little vibration but noticible differance when driving with the reduction in engine movement.
I would want something similar with this car. also with water/meth if i did run it, i would have an on/off switch this way i could leave it off for daily driving, and then switch it on for when i want to have fun
i dont know much about acura parts, on my old car a vw. there were stage 1,2 and 3 mounts. stage 2 was the perfect median, with very little vibration but noticible differance when driving with the reduction in engine movement.
I would want something similar with this car. also with water/meth if i did run it, i would have an on/off switch this way i could leave it off for daily driving, and then switch it on for when i want to have fun
#88
heavy, i agree, i don't think on this car supper stiff mounts would be good, i am seeking power with still a nice firm ride, i dont like smooth butter rides nor do i want a muscle car ride either (not in this car)
i dont know much about acura parts, on my old car a vw. there were stage 1,2 and 3 mounts. stage 2 was the perfect median, with very little vibration but noticible differance when driving with the reduction in engine movement.
I would want something similar with this car. also with water/meth if i did run it, i would have an on/off switch this way i could leave it off for daily driving, and then switch it on for when i want to have fun
i dont know much about acura parts, on my old car a vw. there were stage 1,2 and 3 mounts. stage 2 was the perfect median, with very little vibration but noticible differance when driving with the reduction in engine movement.
I would want something similar with this car. also with water/meth if i did run it, i would have an on/off switch this way i could leave it off for daily driving, and then switch it on for when i want to have fun
When you run meth, your car has to be tuned to use it. The meth is usually constantly going into the engine, it's not like nitrous. You don't push a button and get a shot of methanol, it's just always mixing with the fuel.
I don't know how acuras will be, but on the 4G63 (evo motor), you had to have the car tuned to operate with the meth. If you stopped putting the meth into the engine i.e. via a switch like you said, you'd have severe knocking, etc.
Once the car is tuned for meth, it has to be going into the fuel system at all times.
The only way around this is to have a MAP switch where you use a switch to change your ECU map from meth to non meth and back, etc. This is still dangerous, since the meth will still be partially present in the fuel.
Further, look at it this way. Methanol basically makes your fuel race fuel, similar to 100 octane.
Our acuras from the factory need 91+ octane to run properly, atleast it's recommended. However, it won't knock or ping on 89 octane. But with methanol it's like your car is tuned to run on 100 octane so if you stop using methc it's like running your car on 87 octane as it sits from the factory. This can cause knocking and pinging, etc.
Last edited by varrius; 09-30-2009 at 10:31 AM.
#89
with the vw, you could have the software tuned for it and then it was programed as race mode, and then for reg mode you could or could not run it.
i had unitronics software and before that I had APR software and a few of my friends were running w/m also and not all of them were tuned for it but also i dont think any of them were running it all the time or would have it controlled to activate at 18psi
im not sure how it will work with the acura, but i know i would not want to be driving around with it 24-7
i had unitronics software and before that I had APR software and a few of my friends were running w/m also and not all of them were tuned for it but also i dont think any of them were running it all the time or would have it controlled to activate at 18psi
im not sure how it will work with the acura, but i know i would not want to be driving around with it 24-7
#90
Instructor
Thread Starter
It has been awhile so I wanted to post an update. I have dyno sheets on the car but they are not final yet so I have been asked not to post them. According to CT-E the 09 Model make alittle more power stock than the earlier models. As soon as they finish the tune with the exhaust and intake on I will post the dyno sheets. It looks like for over 300 whp someone is going to have to figure some sort of header/exhaust bung system.
#97
Instructor
Thread Starter
I dont have my car back yet. I think it will be a x-mas present for me. I will soon post all the numbers that I have gotten from them. They are going to release this kit. It will make more h.p and torque than the V6 and be cheaper than it as well. I will post the pics of the exhaust on friday.
#98
Is the kit you are going to be running pushing the normal approx 5 psi of boost? If so I don't believe that will make torque than a V6 TSX. I have an 06 S/C with full I/H/C/E @5psi and have 190 WTQ.
#99
OK I just went back and read some older posts. It seems you guys are working on the car having higher than the initial 5 pounds of boost. I'm assuming ~7 or 8 plus upgraded injectors?
#101
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I dont have my car back yet. I think it will be a x-mas present for me. I will soon post all the numbers that I have gotten from them. They are going to release this kit. It will make more h.p and torque than the V6 and be cheaper than it as well. I will post the pics of the exhaust on friday.
In that case, I may give up hunting for 06 TSX MT and jump in to a 2010 TSX I4 MT. Well... hope the kit will not be for 2009 only.
#102
#103
mrgold35
On paper, it looks a lot cheaper paying the $5,000 extra for the 3.5L compared to upgrading the power on the I4.
#104
^^
HAHA. You don't want to pay what I paid. I used all Mugen parts for the H/C/E and of course paid a pretty penny for them.
The same type of setup can be accomplished either piece mealing parts from different companies or using let's say CT Engineering parts for most of the build. I would say refer to CT's website to get a ballpark on the I/H/E and SC. They don't have a high flow cat. You may want use a vendor here on the forum as they may be able to discount 5 or 10 percent.
Also keep in mind the new V6 TSX is heavier and just a different feeling car (from what I have read). Automobile magazine has a good amount of current editors notebook logs on the new V6 model.
http://www.automobilemag.com/reviews..._v6/index.html
HAHA. You don't want to pay what I paid. I used all Mugen parts for the H/C/E and of course paid a pretty penny for them.
The same type of setup can be accomplished either piece mealing parts from different companies or using let's say CT Engineering parts for most of the build. I would say refer to CT's website to get a ballpark on the I/H/E and SC. They don't have a high flow cat. You may want use a vendor here on the forum as they may be able to discount 5 or 10 percent.
Also keep in mind the new V6 TSX is heavier and just a different feeling car (from what I have read). Automobile magazine has a good amount of current editors notebook logs on the new V6 model.
http://www.automobilemag.com/reviews..._v6/index.html
#105
WTH happened to my garage
The really cool stuff that it *appears* to offer is larger injectors standard, no FMU or ESM, and a single serpentine belt for the accessories and the blower.
WOOHOOO!!
The ability to utilize a reflashed ECU that's *expecting* boost as opposed to the old school FMU's & all that is a HUGE benefit in an ability to tweak big gains while maintaining OE driveability.
As far as the 4 cylinder kit vs V6, with no 6MT on the V6, there will be a market for the kit.
#106
Instructor
Thread Starter
The stock kit is going to be around 6psi. With just that I am close to 210 wtq. That is with just the supercharger, no intake or exhaust. The V6 models was at 213wtq. I should be able to post the dyno slips soon.
#107
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Great point! I was a test car for the kit on the 04 TSX. I've since upgraded to K-Pro and now my car drives close to stock at part throttle. There is a big difference since the ECU can now be properly tuned for all loads and cam angles. You also have Hondata himself tuning the maps for the SC configuration, so you know for a fact that it will be a good tune.
#108
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What were your baseline numbers at?
#109
From an intial assessment, the ~7 psi kit will be the initial offering and it will comprise of new injectors standard.
The really cool stuff that it *appears* to offer is larger injectors standard, no FMU or ESM, and a single serpentine belt for the accessories and the blower.
WOOHOOO!!
The ability to utilize a reflashed ECU that's *expecting* boost as opposed to the old school FMU's & all that is a HUGE benefit in an ability to tweak big gains while maintaining OE driveability.
As far as the 4 cylinder kit vs V6, with no 6MT on the V6, there will be a market for the kit.
The really cool stuff that it *appears* to offer is larger injectors standard, no FMU or ESM, and a single serpentine belt for the accessories and the blower.
WOOHOOO!!
The ability to utilize a reflashed ECU that's *expecting* boost as opposed to the old school FMU's & all that is a HUGE benefit in an ability to tweak big gains while maintaining OE driveability.
As far as the 4 cylinder kit vs V6, with no 6MT on the V6, there will be a market for the kit.
#110
WTH happened to my garage
FMU = Fuel Management Unit = A crude but somewhat effective means of adding more fuel via fuel pressure (vs a wider injector pulse width) under boost by clamping off the return fuel line @ a calibrated ratio that's boost dependant -vs- letting it return to the tank as originally designed. No full cycle fuel system, no FMU capability.
ESM = Electronic Signal Modifier= A method of managing what the MAP sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure) reads in a Speed Density system...one without a MAF. Essentially, the ESM tricks the MAP sensor into thinking there's no boost.
Hey, wait a minute, I thought you already said you were boosted, um, so why do you ask?
My point was that with a Mass Air management system and an appropriate ECU that knows what to do with boost is vastly superior to what we had in the past.
ESM = Electronic Signal Modifier= A method of managing what the MAP sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure) reads in a Speed Density system...one without a MAF. Essentially, the ESM tricks the MAP sensor into thinking there's no boost.
Hey, wait a minute, I thought you already said you were boosted, um, so why do you ask?
My point was that with a Mass Air management system and an appropriate ECU that knows what to do with boost is vastly superior to what we had in the past.
#111
I am boosted. This is my first time modding a car so I do not know all of the tech terms yet. There are many questions that I have never even thought to ask; this site has taught me alot. I had money to spend (at the time) and pay shops to do all of the install. I would not dare F with some of this stuff otherwise the TSX would be getting towed to the nearest junk yard.
Thanks for the answers back.
Thanks for the answers back.
#112
WTH happened to my garage
Sorry, long.
I am boosted. This is my first time modding a car so I do not know all of the tech terms yet. There are many questions that I have never even thought to ask; this site has taught me alot. I had money to spend (at the time) and pay shops to do all of the install. I would not dare F with some of this stuff otherwise the TSX would be getting towed to the nearest junk yard.
Thanks for the answers back.
Thanks for the answers back.
The FMU is the blue & red annodized hunk of aluminum on your car that's mounted to the firewall and has the return line from your fuel rail going into it, then it passes through it and the second line goes back to the tank.
It's kinda like bending or kinking a garden hose. When the FMU senses boost (from the vacuum line mounted to it from the intake manifold) it clamps off the return line, which, in turn, increases the pressure in the rail, just like the pressure increase in a garden hose before where it's kinked. That's how your engine gets additional fuel when you're boosting. It doesn't open the injectors longer, it ramps the pressure to over 100psi (from 40-50-60?) So they're open the same amount of time, but at the higher pressure, more fuel flows in the same event time.
Without a full cycle fuel system (up to the rail, use what it needs, then back to the tank) the 09 (and other cars) can no longer use an FMU and they had to figure out a way to increase the time the injectors are open for a boosted app.
Sorry, kinda long.
#113
No, I appreciate the info. I like to find knowledgable people and tap into their brain. I do know at this point I want to increase the boost to atleast 7 or 8 and get K-Pro to fine tune. Getting upgraded fuel injectors would be a good thing as well I guess. Now all I need is some more greenbacks.
#117
I'm kind of glad it's not out yet. If it were out I'd do something stupid so I could buy it, haha. Some day I will definitely get this for my TSX. Year and a half and I'm still so happy with the car. The power possible with this will make the six speed so much more awesome than it already is.
#118
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I'm kind of glad it's not out yet. If it were out I'd do something stupid so I could buy it, haha. Some day I will definitely get this for my TSX. Year and a half and I'm still so happy with the car. The power possible with this will make the six speed so much more awesome than it already is.
#120
Instructor
Thread Starter
Finally got my car back this week. All I can say is wow. It pulls great and looks even better. It has to be some of the cleanest installs that they have made.