When the key is turned to ACC I was getting a whining noise from the FR tweeter. This was with the factory HU turned off. I don't think this is a ground loop, maybe the power wire is picking up some interference along the way to the amp? I suppose the PPI 900.5 amp is defective? Any other ideas?

Troubleshooting steps that all resulted in the same whining noise from the FR tweeter:
- Removed all RCA from the amp
- Turning the gain up or down didn't help as no audio signal was present with the HU off and the RCA's unplugged.
- Removed power, ground and remote turn on from the MS8 to isolate the PPI 900.5 amp.
- Tried a different ground (although the first was direct to the chassis bare metal)
- Removed all speaker connections from the amp except the front tweeters
- Double checked the wiring both at the amp and at the factory amp connection.
- Ran a test remote connection from the ACC fuse box (fuse #18).
- Unscrewed the amp from the mounting board on the back seats to make sure it wasn't connected to the chassis at all. The amp and MS8 are mounted on a 3/4 mdf board wrapped in auto carpet.

I then swapped in a known good 2 channel amp, connected the FL and FR tweeters, turned the key to ACC, no noise. I verified this amp was powered on at this point.

Factory HU - JBL MS-8 using RCA connection - PPI 900.5 amp.
- Front components are Hertz ESK F165.5 running active.
- Tweeters are on the front channels and mid bass are on the rear channels.
- A single 12" sub is connected to the sub. speaker channel on the amp.
- Stinger 4 gauge power wire, to a fused two port distro. block. Stinger ground distro. block with 4 gauge wire to the ground connection.

I was planning on running active, so I have 20uF caps on each tweeter speaker wire soldered on the positive wire. The mid bass are connected to the rear channel of the amp.

 

I can't help u..but nice to see you got your install going.. Guess you went before the factory amp

 

How'd u figure out which cap to use?

 

What side is power wire ran on?

 

Yes, I'm going to try the factory HU pre-amp signal.

http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/cross4ohm.asp - Has a list of capacitor values to use.

I ran the amp. power wire through the firewall to the left of the main wiring harness as that's an unused grommet. The power wire runs down the driver side to behind the rear seats to the power distro. block.

 

Hey man..any updates on this

 

I sent the amp. back in and am planning on exchanging it for an Alpine PDX-V9. Hopefully sometime next week I'll get it installed.

 

I gotchu..hopefully it was a bad amp..Did you have any trouble making spacers.. I can't seem to make a spacer that will fit

 

Yes, it was a defective amp. I got a Alpine PDX-V9 on the way. Quite an upgrade from the previous amp and a bit more compact.

I was able to use the civic speaker adapters along with the Hertz ESK F165.5 mid as that is a shallow mount. With that combo the speakers fit fine.

I would imagine any other depth or width of speaker would require a spacer and maybe cutting the sheet metal of the door where the speaker opening is. I've read about using a plastic cutting board and jig saw to cut out the speaker spacers. That way you don't have to worry about moisture and ruining mdf spacers.

 

I just bought plastic spacers and trimmed the door panel with a knife.

 

I installed the Alpine PDX-V9 last night and so far it is working good. No whining noise from the tweeters at all and the noise floor is good so far.

 

Yeah I bought a jigsaw just for this lol..and tjay I cut some plastic already ..it cuts very easy.. I have mdf and I made cut outs.. I just can't seem to put the door panel back on ..I'm sure it's user error.. Haha

Anyway good to see the progress man..

Any more projects..

Amp rack under rear deck?

 

I might need a jigsaw as well for another installation with a TL this time.

Make sure you recover any of the door panel clips that are left in the door frame. I had to take these clips out with a plastic panel removal tool and insert them back onto the door panel.

Here's the set of panel removal tools I have. It's a must have IMO.


I had the toughest time getting the door latch back in place onto the door panel.

The door panel goes on from the top first, you have to angle it a bit outwards toward you and get the lip over the top of the door frame. Next it's just a matter of snapping the clips back into place and making sure the door control wiring is put back into place by pulling it through the door control hole towards you. That will give you some room to work with.