Sound Proofing
#1
Meow.
Thread Starter
Sound Proofing
I know there is a few of you cu2 guys who have pretty good audio set ups, how abouts did you go with your sound deadening? Anyone just dynamat or fatmat the doors/trunk? or the whole car like under the seats?
#2
CU2 TSXClass
dynamat, the door and behind the back seat is really necessary... if u don't *like me* u start to feel like the whole car is about to come apart. This Thursday i have a pack coming in. i suggest u do the same if u trying to upgrade to a louder system in your CU2
#3
Burning Brakes
Any recommended brands?
#4
dynamat
#6
Sound deadening material doesn't need to slathered everywhere. What you need to do is very carefully determine where to place the material. Often, a small (4x4 or 6x6) piece strategically placed on a panel is sufficient to reduce panel vibration. a full application of Dynamat can weigh more that 150lbs and brings no more benefit than small pieces properly placed.
#7
TSX AMG Type //M i-VVT
I have some in my front doors but i didn't really notice any difference. Where does it make the most difference?
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#9
Here's a bit of reading that some might find interesting
#10
TSX AMG Type //M i-VVT
Where did you put it behind the back seats? Did you take off the backing or something and put it inside?
#11
CU2 TSXClass
#12
Had an issue with my courtesy light rattling like a sob. Was truly ruining the bass. I ordered some dynamat and took out entire courtesy console. Applied dynamat to frame and actual courtesy console and the rattle is gone. Really just find out where the rattle comes from and apply dynamat. CEB is right.. You don't have to cover entire surface area but strategic pieces go a long way.
#13
Sound deadening material doesn't need to slathered everywhere. What you need to do is very carefully determine where to place the material. Often, a small (4x4 or 6x6) piece strategically placed on a panel is sufficient to reduce panel vibration. a full application of Dynamat can weigh more that 150lbs and brings no more benefit than small pieces properly placed.
I take issue with the small patches approach because I discovered that is what Acura does. Many panels have a small piece of deadening material, but that material has hardened over time and is basically useless once it becomes as hard as the panel itself, which is now the case. I get so much tire and road noise in our 2013 MDX Tech that it is distracting, and on long trips very tiring. I actually bought new Cooper tires to replace the 20K mile Continentals (DWS) that we had on the car to reduce the road noise, but that didn't work. The Coopers are just as loud as the Conti's. This all started at about 45 -50K miles. This is an otherwise terrific SUV, but the noise is overbearing. My next step is to noise insulate the wheel wells underneath the wheel well liners, then undercoat the sound deadener where it is not underneath the liners. If that doesn't work I'll be selling a really nice 2013 MDX Tech with 65K miles and buying something quieter.
#14
I just applied Stinger Roadkill to all my doors and hatch on my wagon and it made a tremendous difference in road noise. The problem is the windows... If I could only deaden the windows...
#15
Redbiff
The front of the back seat is the leather you lean against, and the back has the carpet attached to it for when you fold the seats down. Do you mean to apply it on the part that actually folds down?
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