Connecting an aftermarket Amp+Sub to stock headunit - What do I need?
09-06-2012, 07:27 PM
#1
Drifting
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Connecting an aftermarket Amp+Sub to stock headunit - What do I need?
Hello AZsholes!
First off, I did SEARCH! & Couldn't find a clear answer - so figured I'd ask on behalf of everyone who's wondering the same.
I currently have a JL Audio 12w7 and a Kenwood 1000x1 amp that I had connected to my old car.
My question here is - What all do I need to be able to successfully run this setup on my 2009 TSX w/ Tech - without having to replace the factory HU?
IE - Wiring Kits | Etc.
I plan on doing this soon, but want to purchase everything beforehand (of course).
I plan on doing this soon, but want to purchase everything beforehand (of course).
Thanks in advance! :gheyhug:
09-06-2012, 07:54 PM
#2
Hello AZsholes!
First off, I did SEARCH! & Couldn't find a clear answer - so figured I'd ask on behalf of everyone who's wondering the same.
I currently have a JL Audio 12w7 and a Kenwood 1000x1 amp that I had connected to my old car.
My question here is - What all do I need to be able to successfully run this setup on my 2009 TSX w/ Tech - without having to replace the factory HU?
IE - Wiring Kits | Etc.
I plan on doing this soon, but want to purchase everything beforehand (of course).
I plan on doing this soon, but want to purchase everything beforehand (of course).
Thanks in advance! :gheyhug:
09-06-2012, 08:23 PM
#3
Obviously use the wire gauge and fuse that is listed in the amps owner’s manual.
You will need a firewall bushing and you might have to enlarge the existing hole just above the gas pedal to fit the bushing and power wire. The hole is fitted with a black plug, don’t pop it out until you are ready to install.
If your amp has speaker or high level inputs connect them to the wires at the factory sub. You can use a 98 and up Honda speaker adapter for this. If line (RCA) input only, use a LOC, type doesn’t matter but make sure it will work with high-powered (BTL) decks. Most do. You don’t need a $50 LOC.
I have posted a bunch of times on why you can’t go directly to the HU on the Tech (ELS), so speaker level at the sub is your only choice.
You need to remove the rear shelf if you want to remove the factor sub, the grill is not removable like the rear deck speakers.
Jeff
You will need a firewall bushing and you might have to enlarge the existing hole just above the gas pedal to fit the bushing and power wire. The hole is fitted with a black plug, don’t pop it out until you are ready to install.
If your amp has speaker or high level inputs connect them to the wires at the factory sub. You can use a 98 and up Honda speaker adapter for this. If line (RCA) input only, use a LOC, type doesn’t matter but make sure it will work with high-powered (BTL) decks. Most do. You don’t need a $50 LOC.
I have posted a bunch of times on why you can’t go directly to the HU on the Tech (ELS), so speaker level at the sub is your only choice.
You need to remove the rear shelf if you want to remove the factor sub, the grill is not removable like the rear deck speakers.
Jeff
The following users liked this post:
gaTorSXtasy (09-11-2012)
09-06-2012, 09:09 PM
#4
Drifting
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: City of Champs, MA
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Obviously use the wire gauge and fuse that is listed in the amps owner’s manual.
You will need a firewall bushing and you might have to enlarge the existing hole just above the gas pedal to fit the bushing and power wire. The hole is fitted with a black plug, don’t pop it out until you are ready to install.
If your amp has speaker or high level inputs connect them to the wires at the factory sub. You can use a 98 and up Honda speaker adapter for this. If line (RCA) input only, use a LOC, type doesn’t matter but make sure it will work with high-powered (BTL) decks. Most do. You don’t need a $50 LOC.
I have posted a bunch of times on why you can’t go directly to the HU on the Tech (ELS), so speaker level at the sub is your only choice.
You need to remove the rear shelf if you want to remove the factor sub, the grill is not removable like the rear deck speakers.
Jeff
You will need a firewall bushing and you might have to enlarge the existing hole just above the gas pedal to fit the bushing and power wire. The hole is fitted with a black plug, don’t pop it out until you are ready to install.
If your amp has speaker or high level inputs connect them to the wires at the factory sub. You can use a 98 and up Honda speaker adapter for this. If line (RCA) input only, use a LOC, type doesn’t matter but make sure it will work with high-powered (BTL) decks. Most do. You don’t need a $50 LOC.
I have posted a bunch of times on why you can’t go directly to the HU on the Tech (ELS), so speaker level at the sub is your only choice.
You need to remove the rear shelf if you want to remove the factor sub, the grill is not removable like the rear deck speakers.
Jeff
http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entert...iers/KAC-8105D
Will I need a LOC?
09-07-2012, 01:30 AM
#6
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Cool, so let me get this straight;
I basically just need to run the recommended power+fuse from battery to > Amp < Wires from factory sub to amp > Wires from amp to aftermarket sub?
Thanks for your help Jeff!
I basically just need to run the recommended power+fuse from battery to > Amp < Wires from factory sub to amp > Wires from amp to aftermarket sub?
Thanks for your help Jeff!
10-10-2012, 02:55 PM
#7
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Bump. If anyone can basically create a list of things I need, that would be perfect as I'm looking to buy everything (aside from the amp & sub) this weekend.
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