methodDK

This is my first DIY write up and I hope that it can be understood. If you have any questions or need something clarified post it and I will do my best to answer it more throughly.

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Introduction:

There isn't much DIY info on supplying your own video to the 2nd Gen TSX navi screen, especially with the stock backup camera involved. I have been looking for a way to accomplish this without shelling $300 for a NavTool and I have done just that. All of these parts are available at RadioShack, for about $30 you can accomplish the same.

It took me a few days to figure out exactly how I was going to wire this up because the backup camera is ALWAYS on, even when the car isn't in reverse. I decided on using an LM317 voltage regulator to supply the 8v the camera needs from the reverse switch wire, so the camera only powers up when we are actually in reverse, allowing the supply of an alternate video source when using the 12v switch to change from navi to aux video. If your aux video source is on when you shift the car into reverse, both camera and aux video will display on screen. The only way around this is to NOT have them both on at the same time.

Read the schematic carefully. The placement of the diodes is crucial. Make sure that the black line is pointed towards the navigation unit in your trunk. It is pretty simple if you dont mind cutting some wires and soldering up a simple circuit. I cant provide exact pictures of my wiring, but hopefully the pictures I do provide will be more than enough assistance. This will involve removing the back seat bench, rear passenger side bolster, back and front drivers side kick panel covers, trunk lid liner, and last but not least, the cubby by the driver's left knee. There are some reference images down below if you aren't familiar with removing the seat bench.

Wiring Schematic:


For clarity's sake, the "Camera 6-pin" is the female connector that only has six wires coming from it (Green, Black, Red, White, Brown, Gray). The ONLY full cut you need to make on the "Camera 6-pin" is on the green wire in pin 1, because we will be supplying power from the reverse switch through the voltage regulator when we have the car in reverse. The other three can be stripped back and soldered to, or you can use quick-splice connectors if you find that easier.

When wiring up the LM317, a pre-punched PCB makes the job a lot cleaner, and much more secure. I used the circle one's from RadioShack, but any of them will do. Be sure to apply some hot glue to the PCB connections to ensure you don't have any shorts down the road. The PCB can be mounted up into the trunk lid.

Below are the parts needed and their corresponding name in the schematic.


Parts Needed:

1. 1x SPST Switch (Video Switch in schematic)
2. 2x 1N4148 Diodes (D1 & D2)
3. 1x 270 Ohm Resistor (R1)
4. 1x 1.5k Ohm Resistor (R2)
5. 1x Solder-Type RCA Input Jack (RCA Video In)
6. 3 Different Colors of Wire (at least 20 feet of each)
7. 1x LM317 Voltage Regulator (in, out, adj)
8. A Pre-Punched PCB (makes wiring of the LM317 easier, can be mounted inside trunk lid very easily)
9. Quick Splice Connectors for 12v switch and Video +/- (if you dont want to solder on those connections)

Tools Needed:

1. Multimeter
2. 10mm Socket
3. Pliers
4. Electrical Tape
5. (Preferably) A Cordless Soldering Iron
6. Some Solder

Bench Removal:

1. There are two black clips under the rear seat bench, they are located under the left and right seats, directly in the middle. Pull the black tab outward and lift up:
   
   
   
   
2. The final step to back seat removal is the bolt behind the center seat. Drop the seat back and lift the trunk carpet up to reach this bolt, you will need a 10mm socket.
   
   
   
   After the bolt is removed, lift the bench from both sides and slide it forward and out of the car.
   
   
3. The next step, which I can not provide an image of, is the removal of the passenger-side rear bolster. Just look for a black bolt attached to a long piece of white plastic, you can't miss it. Remove this bolt and carefully slide the bolster straight up to remove.

Wiring:

Wire up your voltage regulator now and then test with a multimeter to make sure you are getting around 8.25 volts from the Vout wire. A spare molex plug in your computer works well for this. Vin goes to the yellow wire, Ground to the Black. Test the DC Voltage from the Vout wire, using the molex for ground, if you get around 8.25v, you're golden.

With the bench and bolster now out of the car, look for the bundle of wires taped together and fish out the light blue wire with gray spots. This is the reverse switch wire. You will need to cut some of the tape wrapped around this bundle to get enough slack to work with. Make sure to test the wire with a multimeter to be 100% sure that you have the right wire. It should be dead when in all gears except reverse. In reverse it should be getting 12v-14v.

Remove the trunk lid lining to reveal the camera plugs, disconnect them, leaving the one with the plastic clip attached to the trunk lid.

Following the schematic, run your wires first. Be sure to leave enough slack for any mistakes. The wires coming from the trunk lid into the car will need enough slack for the trunk to open and close normally. Just run all of the wires with the trunk lid open and it will be fine. I opened the left plastic trunk hinge cover to run all of my wires to the trunk, and from there across the back behind the navi and then finally, down to the bundle of wires behind the rear seat bolster.

You will need to tap a 12v source for your switch to switch the navigation to and from your aux video source. Use your multimeter to find a 12v line and tap it to run to the switch. The wire coming back from the switch needs a diode on the end of it. This then needs to be attached to the black striped side of the first diode.

I currently have my RCA input in the trunk, but plan on moving it to the center storage box when I have more time.

After you have everything wired up, test everything. Make sure camera is on in reverse, make sure the switch works, make sure your input video works. If all is good, tape up the connections and tape the wires together to make sure they dont move. Put everything back together and enjoy the extra $270 in your pocket and the badassery taking place on your navigation screen.


Reference Images:

Wired PCB:

ed_423

legit!

methodDK

Thanks! I'm still working on audio for it. I want to do a PDF write-up of the total process eventually once I get it all set up. Planning on installing the composite cable so an iPhone/iPad/iPod can be docked somewhere to display videos.

KillerG

well... this is completely awesome and well beyond the scope of my abilities. major props to you for figuring it out though.

Just wanted to also say your work will probably be underappreciated, but you have my thanks, atleast

kowloonsniperhk

thats awesome! the pictures are not loading for me. anyone have any issues?

methodDK

Thanks. There was another thread where someone posted the pinout for the camera and whatnot but it never got any further and I really wanted to make this work without having to tap the RGBS wires on the nav.

The pictures sometimes load and sometimes don't, I'll upload them to my webserver and re-post them.

krblgc

does it work with the transmission on drive?

methodDK

Yeah it can but I don't recommend doing that lol.

shady_CU2

I cant see pictures

methodDK

I can't edit my original post, but I've rehosted the images on imgur.

In order of the original post:

katanamast279

Do you know how to turn the camera on while driving? I'm sure some type of wiring is needed.

Thanks

Username 0

im bumping up this thread in hopes of getting an oem tsx backup camera to work with my non-tech tsx with an aftermarket radio. So according to the info above, I have to add 8 volts to pin #1, ground to pin #2 and the rca negative and positive to pins 3 and 4?
Is it that simple?

ssjoeboe9

What is the purpose of this? Just a backup camera? Or wathcing videos while driving?

Cant your head unit do both already?

Username 0

Cuz I have hard-on for oem, BRO!!!
I have a Chinese shyyt camera and the oem has a clearer picture.

Why would I watch video while driving?? You on drugs?

ssjoeboe9

yeah doesn't make sense.. just buy a better camera brahh

Username 0

Yeah! Oem! It gives a clear freakin picture.

ssjoeboe9

If you say so lol

icu2tsx

From what I read, you don't need to add 8V, since you can just tap into positive lead on one of the reverse lights to power the camera, this mod was done to be able to kill the power to the oem back up camera since it's always hot, whether in reverse or not, shifting in reverse would make the source in the head unit change to back up camera view but the camera was always on. He did this mod in order to let another source work (additional video, additional camera AV1/AV2).

your after market head unit should not have this issue at all. You are over thinking it

ssjoeboe9

That's what I thought too.. but Username 0 is sooooo hoity toity!

Username 0

Ok I guess I haven't really explained myself all to well here. I know that it's always on for tech tsx but I don't have a tech tsx so that bit of info is irrelevant to my question. I am well aware what the purpose of this diy is for.
For the love of God, I just had a simple question about wiring up an oem camera to my non-tech tsx with an aftermarket radio. I already have a back up camera installed but the quality isn't that great and it's not clear. So I want to install and wire up an oem 09-14 tsx back up camera to my non-tech tsx since it wil fit perfect.
The op said the oem camera gets 8v, if I hook it up to 12v, there's a chance I might damage the camera.
I'm not over thinking it at all. Simple wiring question plain and simple.

icu2tsx

Now you make sense.

Only one way to find out, hook it up and see lol