2G TSX Chat, Chit, and General Info Thread
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iTrader: (1)
Wagon, I'm Justin.
whats your name!?
I'm beginning to like you!
in a non-gay way.
whats your name!?
I'm beginning to like you!
in a non-gay way.
I saw the ratchet in your thread. I restored my Mini Cooper (original not the fake BMW ones), and about 4 years ago, EXACT same thing happened to me. After trying for 3 days, took it to a shop who had to use a torch to get that ratchet off.
Of course talking of all these ratchets in a non gay way Though your ratchet is like better than mine
That said, I gotta get some sleep. I have a 30 hour shift starting in 5 hours.
WHat is wrong with gay way? I lived in SF for 7years, have strong gaydar
I saw the ratchet in your thread. I restored my Mini Cooper (original not the fake BMW ones), and about 4 years ago, EXACT same thing happened to me. After trying for 3 days, took it to a shop who had to use a torch to get that ratchet off.
Of course talking of all these ratchets in a non gay way Though your ratchet is like better than mine
That said, I gotta get some sleep. I have a 30 hour shift starting in 5 hours.
I saw the ratchet in your thread. I restored my Mini Cooper (original not the fake BMW ones), and about 4 years ago, EXACT same thing happened to me. After trying for 3 days, took it to a shop who had to use a torch to get that ratchet off.
Of course talking of all these ratchets in a non gay way Though your ratchet is like better than mine
That said, I gotta get some sleep. I have a 30 hour shift starting in 5 hours.
^^ couldn't sleep
loser friends called about some football. told them I don't watch amateur sports
oh well, gotta get ready for work. need to pay for some a048s
loser friends called about some football. told them I don't watch amateur sports
oh well, gotta get ready for work. need to pay for some a048s
Itz JDM y0!
Got into an accident
Itz JDM y0!
Luckily me and the other driver are fine but my cars bumper is gone. No other damage, collision was at like 20mph.
VTEC just kicked in, yo!
Damn VR1, glad you're okay. Any pics of the damage? Quote?
Bright side... time to go modulo?
Bright side... time to go modulo?
TSX AMG Type //M i-VVT
^^ yea get the guy to buy you a modulo
VTEC just kicked in, yo!
If it's the front he'll need to buy you a grille too cuz you're mmc lol
Everyday I'm rofling
and fogs too if you go the modulo route.
The following users liked this post:
xtcnrice (01-13-2015)
Itz JDM y0!
Modulo is too much work to deal with. I just want it fixed.
^^
At least get the EDM grille
!
At least get the EDM grille
!
TSX AMG Type //M i-VVT
The following 2 users liked this post by iCrap:
Harper (01-13-2015),
justnspace (01-13-2015)
VTEC just kicked in, yo!
lol da fuk
Three Wheelin'
Three Wheelin'
VTEC just kicked in, yo!
wanna buy some wheels, but can't decide if 18 or 19 will look better
Also can't figure out what offset I should stay with. Don't need no stanced out fender cutting BS. Too old for that.
Want a good fit, no sunken in stuff, no spacers. Will be lowered, but not slammed.
VR Wheels WebStore, Presented By VR Motoring
Any thoughts? Wagon h as a super fat butt and can't decide what to do on the 18/19 and the right offsets.
I am ok with running diff size tires in the rear. Rotating tires, don't matter
Thanks for the help
Puppetmaster wagon looks the best to what I want mine to represent, but he doesn't post here anymore
Also can't figure out what offset I should stay with. Don't need no stanced out fender cutting BS. Too old for that.
Want a good fit, no sunken in stuff, no spacers. Will be lowered, but not slammed.
VR Wheels WebStore, Presented By VR Motoring
Any thoughts? Wagon h as a super fat butt and can't decide what to do on the 18/19 and the right offsets.
I am ok with running diff size tires in the rear. Rotating tires, don't matter
Thanks for the help
Puppetmaster wagon looks the best to what I want mine to represent, but he doesn't post here anymore
VTEC just kicked in, yo!
wanna buy some wheels, but can't decide if 18 or 19 will look better
Also can't figure out what offset I should stay with. Don't need no stanced out fender cutting BS. Too old for that.
Want a good fit, no sunken in stuff, no spacers. Will be lowered, but not slammed.
VR Wheels WebStore, Presented By VR Motoring
Any thoughts? Wagon h as a super fat butt and can't decide what to do on the 18/19 and the right offsets.
I am ok with running diff size tires in the rear. Rotating tires, don't matter
Thanks for the help
Puppetmaster wagon looks the best to what I want mine to represent, but he doesn't post here anymore
Also can't figure out what offset I should stay with. Don't need no stanced out fender cutting BS. Too old for that.
Want a good fit, no sunken in stuff, no spacers. Will be lowered, but not slammed.
VR Wheels WebStore, Presented By VR Motoring
Any thoughts? Wagon h as a super fat butt and can't decide what to do on the 18/19 and the right offsets.
I am ok with running diff size tires in the rear. Rotating tires, don't matter
Thanks for the help
Puppetmaster wagon looks the best to what I want mine to represent, but he doesn't post here anymore
Mind you, with a square setup the rears will look a tad sunk vs the fronts, even more so when lowered due to the negative camber side effect. If you don't mind a staggered setup, I suggest a more aggressive pair for the rear. This can be fixed with spacers, but you mentioned that's a no no.
HOWEVER, even though the rears tend to appear sunk vs. the fronts, I believe the rears will be prone to rubbing before the fronts will, assuming a square setup. Reason being, the rear fenders are unrolled from the factory (there's like a 1/2 inch lip on the rears; not apparent on front fenders). Feel/inspect them by hand to get a better understanding.
FWIW, I've run 18x9.5 +45 square on 235/40 Hankook Ventus V12 tires (mild-moderate tire stretch), withOUT fenders being rolled. No rubbing lowered ~3" on TEIN Street Basis (you can see my build thread for pics). I did however roll them later, because I decided on adding 15mm spacers to the rear to make the rears more flush.
1" of width is approximately 0.5" of offset. So, 18x9.5 +45 will be roughly equivalent to 18x8.5 +32. Use this rule to help adjust your ideal configuration.
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2012wagon (01-13-2015)
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iTrader: (1)
glad you're okay, VR1.
them rainy streets got you? didnt they?
them rainy streets got you? didnt they?
If you like his setup, go 18s with a decent side wall. If you want minimum unsprung weight, optimize on lowest possible width first, then adjust offset to flushness. 18x8.5 +35 is a safe bet. Puppetmaster did roll his fenders though, and he's running 18x8.5 +30 all around. Note that he is however, running 245/40 tires all around. If you run a thinner tire, you'll be less likely to rub due to tire stretching. You'll need to do your homework here to figure out what setup you like best.
Mind you, with a square setup the rears will look a tad sunk vs the fronts, even more so when lowered due to the negative camber side effect. If you don't mind a staggered setup, I suggest a more aggressive pair for the rear. This can be fixed with spacers, but you mentioned that's a no no.
HOWEVER, even though the rears tend to appear sunk vs. the fronts, I believe the rears will be prone to rubbing before the fronts will, assuming a square setup. Reason being, the rear fenders are unrolled from the factory (there's like a 1/2 inch lip on the rears; not apparent on front fenders). Feel/inspect them by hand to get a better understanding.
FWIW, I've run 18x9.5 +45 square on 235/40 Hankook Ventus V12 tires (mild-moderate tire stretch), withOUT fenders being rolled. No rubbing lowered ~3" on TEIN Street Basis (you can see my build thread for pics). I did however roll them later, because I decided on adding 15mm spacers to the rear to make the rears more flush.
1" of width is approximately 0.5" of offset. So, 18x9.5 +45 will be roughly equivalent to 18x8.5 +32. Use this rule to help adjust your ideal configuration.
Mind you, with a square setup the rears will look a tad sunk vs the fronts, even more so when lowered due to the negative camber side effect. If you don't mind a staggered setup, I suggest a more aggressive pair for the rear. This can be fixed with spacers, but you mentioned that's a no no.
HOWEVER, even though the rears tend to appear sunk vs. the fronts, I believe the rears will be prone to rubbing before the fronts will, assuming a square setup. Reason being, the rear fenders are unrolled from the factory (there's like a 1/2 inch lip on the rears; not apparent on front fenders). Feel/inspect them by hand to get a better understanding.
FWIW, I've run 18x9.5 +45 square on 235/40 Hankook Ventus V12 tires (mild-moderate tire stretch), withOUT fenders being rolled. No rubbing lowered ~3" on TEIN Street Basis (you can see my build thread for pics). I did however roll them later, because I decided on adding 15mm spacers to the rear to make the rears more flush.
1" of width is approximately 0.5" of offset. So, 18x9.5 +45 will be roughly equivalent to 18x8.5 +32. Use this rule to help adjust your ideal configuration.
I don't need a square setup.
I saw your thread, and looking at your pics, your fronts are perfect for me (first post on your build thread). Your rears are a bit sunken in.
But I don't like how on yours you can see the lip of the wheel not covered by tire.
18x8.5 +32 front
18x9.5 +35 rear?
235 front and 245 rear?
I had these on my Integra back in the day Blitz 01 [Blitz 01 18x8.5+48, 9+23] - $1,100.00 : VR Wheels WebStore, Presented By VR Motoring
VTEC just kicked in, yo!
Sick wheels!
Yeah the "lip" of my wheels are exposed a bit due to tire stretch. It's mild so I don't care that much. First time modding ever, so I didn't want to run into rubbing issues lol. I wouldn't do this much stretch on my next set that's for sure. But if I had known better back then, I also wouldn't have bought those set of wheels lol. Guess it comes with being a noob. Live and learn.
What you see on mine are 235s on 9.5" +45. Depending on your choice of wheels, you may have to round off your offset to +30 or +35. If you have to, I'd probably go with +35 for safe measure, as 235s on an 8.5" wheel will be meatier than my setup and may actually rub if you rounded down.
I don't have the pic readily available, but I took a bird's eye view shot of my front wheels before, and the lip of my wheel is poking out of the fender maybe a couple mm. I think something like 18x8.5 +35 front should be perfect for 235s.
Rears... 18x9.5 +35 on 245s might rub unless you roll the fenders. Unfortunately, I don't recall how much "play" I had left between the sidewall of my rear tires and the rear fender lip before adding spacers and rolling fenders.
You could always do 18x9.5 +45 on 245s for the rears. If it's still sunk, get a rear camber kit and decrease negative camber (increase positive camber) appropriately. I have a rear camber kit but haven't had a chance to install it yet. Oh how I miss summer... it was -21C this morning, pre-windchill. brr...
Yeah the "lip" of my wheels are exposed a bit due to tire stretch. It's mild so I don't care that much. First time modding ever, so I didn't want to run into rubbing issues lol. I wouldn't do this much stretch on my next set that's for sure. But if I had known better back then, I also wouldn't have bought those set of wheels lol. Guess it comes with being a noob. Live and learn.
What you see on mine are 235s on 9.5" +45. Depending on your choice of wheels, you may have to round off your offset to +30 or +35. If you have to, I'd probably go with +35 for safe measure, as 235s on an 8.5" wheel will be meatier than my setup and may actually rub if you rounded down.
I don't have the pic readily available, but I took a bird's eye view shot of my front wheels before, and the lip of my wheel is poking out of the fender maybe a couple mm. I think something like 18x8.5 +35 front should be perfect for 235s.
Rears... 18x9.5 +35 on 245s might rub unless you roll the fenders. Unfortunately, I don't recall how much "play" I had left between the sidewall of my rear tires and the rear fender lip before adding spacers and rolling fenders.
You could always do 18x9.5 +45 on 245s for the rears. If it's still sunk, get a rear camber kit and decrease negative camber (increase positive camber) appropriately. I have a rear camber kit but haven't had a chance to install it yet. Oh how I miss summer... it was -21C this morning, pre-windchill. brr...
^^^
Thank you very much.
71 degrees F here.
Thank you very much.
71 degrees F here.
VTEC just kicked in, yo!
geeeez......
Itz JDM y0!
Do you guys think a new front bumper will match with the car or should I have them match it since it'll be off? Car is a little under 2 years old.
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iTrader: (1)
^if the front bumpers come painted from factory; it'll match.
if you have to get the bumper painted; the shop will have to blend
if you have to get the bumper painted; the shop will have to blend
ROTAREDOM
Modulo comes paint... just saying
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xtcnrice (01-14-2015)
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back from korea.
1. i would never drive my car there. parking is so small and tight i would go insane.
2. i don't know why people buy nice cars there. there is no where to drive it. traffic everywhere
1. i would never drive my car there. parking is so small and tight i would go insane.
2. i don't know why people buy nice cars there. there is no where to drive it. traffic everywhere
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iTrader: (1)
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opboarding (01-14-2015)
VTEC just kicked in, yo!
Drifting
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Was looking at Teins for the wagon. Can't believe how much cheaper they are now then years past.
530$ for basis . $620 for Street Advance. $1000 for flex.
530$ for basis . $620 for Street Advance. $1000 for flex.
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Yen is pretty weak right now as well. It's a good time to buy. I'm *really* struggling not pulling the trigger on a set myself right now.
I am thinking of going advanced. Thoughts?
I am post 30 hour shift, not thinking clearly...