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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 08:41 AM
  #17281  
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Originally Posted by ssjoeboe9
lol I was good at dynamics/ thermodynamics and steamed rolled my manufacturing class... and that was about it lol everything else was pretty tough the entire time haha. I only ever dropped one class though and that was electrical circuits 1... we had a horrible prof with AVG test scores in the mid 50's... so not acceptable. Took the next semester and made B+

Honestly one of the hardest courses for me was probably vibration analysis and feedback control systems (A lot like Flashpro datalogs lmao)
Man it sounds like you took the classes I am needing to take. I just finished DE, and Dynamics. Very Hard. I think imma take Electrical Circuits and Thermodynamics next semester.
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 09:18 AM
  #17282  
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I liked circuits. Our teacher was terrible and the tests were tricky but I liked the material. Mostly because I like messing with LEDs.

Controls was a killer. So many people failed out of it and our teacher didn't care. Our class test averages were in the 40's. I ended up with a C and I was pretty proud of that.
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 09:40 AM
  #17283  
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I had my circuits/resistors/capacitators test yesterday in Physics 2/B. Still don't understand anything lol.
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 09:56 AM
  #17284  
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Originally Posted by ssjoeboe9
lol I was good at dynamics/ thermodynamics and steamed rolled my manufacturing class... and that was about it lol everything else was pretty tough the entire time haha. I only ever dropped one class though and that was electrical circuits 1... we had a horrible prof with AVG test scores in the mid 50's... so not acceptable. Took the next semester and made B+

Honestly one of the hardest courses for me was probably vibration analysis and feedback control systems (A lot like Flashpro datalogs lmao)
Originally Posted by opboarding
I liked circuits. Our teacher was terrible and the tests were tricky but I liked the material. Mostly because I like messing with LEDs.

Controls was a killer. So many people failed out of it and our teacher didn't care. Our class test averages were in the 40's. I ended up with a C and I was pretty proud of that.
I did very well in the electrical courses surprisingly. Better than the software courses at the time actually hahahh. I think the course I found hardest was Probability and Random Processes (stats). Our midterm was worth 30% or so, and I got a 30% AFTER riding the bellcurve. I wanted to shed a tear lmao. I ended up with a 70 though. Needless to say, I'm most proud of this mark throughout my entire undergrad.
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 10:04 AM
  #17285  
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Originally Posted by VR1
I had my circuits/resistors/capacitators test yesterday in Physics 2/B. Still don't understand anything lol.
VR1 should change your name to V1R. V = IR bruh. All you need to know
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 10:27 AM
  #17286  
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The funniest part of electrical circuits is that none of those equations work in real life haha. Length of wire, type of wire, heat blah blah blah all affect the the final output haha. No one calculates by hand anymore and if you do it's so simplified compared to actual situation so your answer means nothing.
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 10:28 AM
  #17287  
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Originally Posted by Harper
Damn, what all do you have that the stuffs worth half as much as the car? I have 5% for the rears and 50% front sides. Apparently my sig stopped showing/working.
Well assuming my car is worth like 16-17k
My laptop is like 2k, camera is 3, battery grip is like 500ish lenses are like. 6-7k, if i have them all in there (i rarely do though)
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 10:29 AM
  #17288  
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Originally Posted by iCrap
Well assuming my car is worth like 16-17k
My laptop is like 2k, camera is 3, battery grip is like 500ish lenses are like. 6-7k, if i have them all in there (i rarely do though)
What's your camera setup? I want more lenses but... car parts doe.
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 10:32 AM
  #17289  
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Originally Posted by ssjoeboe9
The funniest part of electrical circuits is that none of those equations work in real life haha. Length of wire, type of wire, heat blah blah blah all affect the the final output haha. No one calculates by hand anymore and if you do it's so simplified compared to actual situation so your answer means nothing.
yup that's true.. I had to take a course called Physical Chemistry and Material Science. Part of that was dealing with more real world type problems and factoring in length of wire, etc. Man that course sucked hard though....
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 10:36 AM
  #17290  
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Originally Posted by xtcnrice
What's your camera setup? I want more lenses but... car parts doe.
I have a d800
18-70mm DX nikkor
105mm FX prime macro
60mm FX prime macro
11-16 Tokina fisheye
80-400

And then i have like 3 other random prime lenses which i never use
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 10:43 AM
  #17291  
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So my EL wire strip lighting for the door "stills" came in and i immediately shocked myself on the 120v inverter lmao, fail. Now i just gotta make the acrylic piece.
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 10:48 AM
  #17292  
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be sure to fuse that thing.

i know of two fires from oracle halos that use those 120v inverters.
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 10:58 AM
  #17293  
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Yeah, will do.
I think i might just switch to LEDs but I dont know yet
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 11:11 AM
  #17294  
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The beauty of EL is that it's paper thin so you can fit it under the sill pretty easy. With LED, you'd really want to use a light guide sheet to get even illumination with a thin installation like the sill. That isn't the easiest thing to do.

Downside to EL is the color choices. Getting that aqua illumination is easy and it'll look pretty nice when it's off since it'll be pretty white. Red illumination isn't brilliant, and getting a white illumination will leave you with sort of a nasty pink look when it's off.

I'd recommend putting a thin layer of stiff-ish plastic *behind* the EL strip when you install it if it will be touching anything. EL sheets are susceptible to damage from contamination. Like if you get a small piece of grit behind the lamp, it can poke it's way into the lamp and potentially cause a short between the two electrode layers. It'll cause a small burn but luckily will eventually create enough of a char to insulate itself and the rest of the lamp will still work. I imagine there is a good chance of getting some crap in the area since it's in the door, near the floor, and sand and junk could easily get in there.

Oh, and tape up any cuts you make (edges of the lamp, etc). Moisture intrusion into the layers of the lamp will short it out pretty quickly. Especially in high humidity environments.



Originally Posted by iCrap
Yeah, will do.
I think i might just switch to LEDs but I dont know yet
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 11:57 AM
  #17295  
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@ icrap Make sure you make mine after you already mess up yours
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 12:41 PM
  #17296  
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there a recent DIY on a TL that might be helpful if you havent seen already...but maybe you have.
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 12:48 PM
  #17297  
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nah i haven't seen it.. link?
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 01:33 PM
  #17298  
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Originally Posted by iCrap
nah i haven't seen it.. link?
ask and you shall receive. make mine after you make joe's =D

https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g...-sills-921417/

The step by step from the thread, he posted it later down for more concise instructions, his first posts include plenty of pics and a great DIY guide
Originally Posted by eaf
Alright, for brevity fans, here are the step-by-step high-level instructions:

Prerequisites
  1. Order laser-cut 1.5mm clear acrylic parts from ponoko.com; DI-NOC, 5mm adhesive copper tape, Weld-On and applicator from ebay; EL Tapes and inverters from Lightkraft
  2. Buy black silicon caulk, black flat paint from HomeDepot
  3. Get soldering supplies, CAT6 wire, heat shrink tubing, heat gun
  4. Remove door sills, remove aluminum part from the sills' base.

Manufacturing: Glue and Finish
  1. Apply DI-NOC to the face of the top overlay part. Use heat gun @100C and hands.
  2. Cut DI-NOC along perimeter and letters
  3. Glue the bottom and top parts of the overlay by pressing them together and applying the Weld-On with the applicator along the perimeter and letters. Weld-On will be sucked between the parts via capillary action, and the initial bond will be achieved within the first 1-2 minutes.
  4. Shape the rear overlays by applying the heat gun @300C to the bottom, bending and pressing the overlays into their bases.
  5. Sand the bottom of the overlays, paint edges with black paint.

Manufacturing: EL-Tape
  1. Cut 1m EL Tapes so that the piece with the preassembled connector is long enough to cover the entire front sill. The remaining piece w/o connector will be used for the matching rear sill.
  2. Remove heat-shrink tubing protecting preassembled connectors. That will expose solder points and copper foil. Desolder the existing wires.
  3. Make a slit for the EL Tape near the clip on the side of the sill base that will be mounted closer to the center pillar. Confirm that there is a depression in the car's metal sill around the rectangular hole that the clip will go into. I have it in my '08, IDK how it is in '04-06.
  4. Bend the end of the EL Tape so that after passing it through the slit you'll still have at least 1cm of laminated copper foil on the base's top side, but verify that the foil is not visible through cut areas of the overlay.
  5. Use caulk to attach the EL Tape to the base. The tape will attempt to coil, to prevent that clamp the overlays on top.
  6. For the rear sills strip some laminate from one end of the tape, attach adhesive copper foil. EL Tape from Lightkraft has one fat central conductor and two narrow conductors on the sides. Attaching foil to the fat conductor is a no-brainer, for the side one wrap the foil around the edge of the tape so that 50% of it is on the front side and the other 50% is on the back.
  7. Once the caulk has dried, trim the end of the tape that is sticking from the slit, solder wires, and seal the slit with caulk. The wires should stick out between the two plastic parts of the clip because they will go along with the clips into the metal door sill.
  8. Run a bead of caulk along the base's perimeter, and glue the overlay on top

Installation
  1. Disconnect battery
  2. Remove cabin sill, front and center pillars trim
  3. Remove front overhead light sunroof switch by prying its rear side
  4. Remove front overhead light by pulling its rear side down
  5. Run wires from the overhead light along the headliner to the front pillar, then down to the floor, then to the center pillar.
  6. Strip insulation from wires going to pins 1 and 5 of the 20-pin connector (#1 is BLU/WHT = +12V, #5 is GRN/RED). Solder your fished wires to the exposed conductors.
  7. Remove seat belt assemblies, tuck inverters behind, put the assemblies back
  8. For each door drill one extra hole near the existing hole where the cabin sill trim's clip used to be
  9. Install the sills by fishing the wires through the drilled holes inside the cabin
  10. Solder inverters to the wires ran from the overhead lights, and to the wires coming from the sills

Last edited by PyroDave; Dec 12, 2014 at 01:38 PM.
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 01:38 PM
  #17299  
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Dave's alive?
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 01:47 PM
  #17300  
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Originally Posted by PyroDave
ask and you shall receive. make mine after you make joe's =D

https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g...-sills-921417/

The step by step from the thread, he posted it later down for more concise instructions, his first posts include plenty of pics and a great DIY guide
Third time's the charm!
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 01:51 PM
  #17301  
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Originally Posted by ssjoeboe9
Dave's alive?

Dave has been busy and was in DR for a week for a wedding, don't you keep up with my facebook and instagram you ho.

PS: Stella said i'm not invited to the wedding anymore, apparently you traded 24 of your seats to her family so that you could order more car parts before the wedding, and i didn't make the cut. not cool brah, i was gonna be the best flower girl
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 02:41 PM
  #17302  
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lmao I saw those pics in the DR haha I was like wait a second.... why is Dave in the Caribbean?
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Old Dec 13, 2014 | 12:21 AM
  #17303  
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lol alright thanks for the link. I'll try making a test piece after my exams are done......
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Old Dec 13, 2014 | 02:24 AM
  #17304  
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Exclamation

Originally Posted by ssjoeboe9
Dave's alive?
obviously.
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Old Dec 13, 2014 | 07:31 AM
  #17305  
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Killer motherfucking G!
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Old Dec 13, 2014 | 08:05 AM
  #17306  
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Wow killer is back! I thought for sure he was dead. I remember whe he was like I have so many parts waiting to be installed when I get back home.... Then he never came back hahaha
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Old Dec 13, 2014 | 09:48 AM
  #17307  
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Originally Posted by ssjoeboe9
Wow killer is back! I thought for sure he was dead. I remember whe he was like I have so many parts waiting to be installed when I get back home.... Then he never came back hahaha
lol yeah even I noticed that
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Old Dec 13, 2014 | 10:16 AM
  #17308  
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(whispering) hey all you 11+ performance junkies i got something for you

a good fix
v6 Open fog vents fit I4 PnP
get more COLD air in the better
let me know
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Old Dec 13, 2014 | 10:30 AM
  #17309  
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*whispers back*
why are you whispering?
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Old Dec 13, 2014 | 10:42 AM
  #17310  
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why not?
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Old Dec 13, 2014 | 06:10 PM
  #17311  
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I want open fog vents... But that aero bumper has sooooooooooo
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Old Dec 13, 2014 | 06:45 PM
  #17312  
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Originally Posted by robpp
(whispering) hey all you 11+ performance junkies i got something for you

a good fix
v6 Open fog vents fit I4 PnP
get more COLD air in the better
let me know
I'm going to run a duct from my AC and blow the air straight into my intake. I don't see why no one has thought of this before.
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Old Dec 13, 2014 | 06:49 PM
  #17313  
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Originally Posted by KillerG
obviously.
Hey killerG do you still have your design file for the acryllic door sills?
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Old Dec 13, 2014 | 06:51 PM
  #17314  
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Saw the P1 and 918

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Old Dec 13, 2014 | 07:16 PM
  #17315  
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Originally Posted by robpp
it cost Saudi Arabia 2 dollars a barrel.

it cost what in the US......maybe 40-50.

they figure eventually they will win.

or cause a recession here.

but in further digging their true cost is much higher cause they need to keep all the minions happy with free stuff and pensions and the good life.
Originally Posted by justnspace
Because U.S. started Fracking. we started to find our own oil and not depend on others.

with the oil barrels down, it no longer makes sense to Frack, as its expensive.

so basically, they lower prices short term for LONG term gain.
So they think if they just keep the prices down, we wouldn't have much of a reason to frack and find our own gas? And wouldn"t lower prices help the US economy (other then the one in Texas?)
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Old Dec 13, 2014 | 08:34 PM
  #17316  
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Apparently they lowered the prices of oil so it makes no sense to spend a lot of money on fracking. Also than* not then lol.
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Old Dec 14, 2014 | 12:57 AM
  #17317  
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Won an Apple TV. Anyone own/use one?
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Old Dec 14, 2014 | 01:00 AM
  #17318  
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Originally Posted by iCrap
Whatd you get?
Post just before mine.

Originally Posted by Harper
Sometimes I have trouble looking out of the rear window at night, but I've left my laptop sitting on the back seat a few times. Didn't get stolen since can't see shit through the windows cuz of dark af tint + black seats + black laptop.
Originally Posted by rawger
Guess what guys, I got a new laptop today!
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Old Dec 14, 2014 | 03:14 AM
  #17319  
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Originally Posted by iCrap
Hey killerG do you still have your design file for the acryllic door sills?
Let it never be said that OP does not deliver,

Check your inbox.
Goodbye sweet Acurazine. Im going to go die again
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Old Dec 14, 2014 | 09:03 AM
  #17320  
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OP delivered!
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