2G TSX Chat, Chit, and General Info Thread
lol I was good at dynamics/ thermodynamics and steamed rolled my manufacturing class... and that was about it lol everything else was pretty tough the entire time haha. I only ever dropped one class though and that was electrical circuits 1... we had a horrible prof with AVG test scores in the mid 50's... so not acceptable. Took the next semester and made B+ 
Honestly one of the hardest courses for me was probably vibration analysis and feedback control systems (A lot like Flashpro datalogs lmao)

Honestly one of the hardest courses for me was probably vibration analysis and feedback control systems (A lot like Flashpro datalogs lmao)
I liked circuits. Our teacher was terrible and the tests were tricky but I liked the material. Mostly because I like messing with LEDs.
Controls was a killer. So many people failed out of it and our teacher didn't care. Our class test averages were in the 40's. I ended up with a C and I was pretty proud of that.
Controls was a killer. So many people failed out of it and our teacher didn't care. Our class test averages were in the 40's. I ended up with a C and I was pretty proud of that.
lol I was good at dynamics/ thermodynamics and steamed rolled my manufacturing class... and that was about it lol everything else was pretty tough the entire time haha. I only ever dropped one class though and that was electrical circuits 1... we had a horrible prof with AVG test scores in the mid 50's... so not acceptable. Took the next semester and made B+ 
Honestly one of the hardest courses for me was probably vibration analysis and feedback control systems (A lot like Flashpro datalogs lmao)

Honestly one of the hardest courses for me was probably vibration analysis and feedback control systems (A lot like Flashpro datalogs lmao)
I liked circuits. Our teacher was terrible and the tests were tricky but I liked the material. Mostly because I like messing with LEDs.
Controls was a killer. So many people failed out of it and our teacher didn't care. Our class test averages were in the 40's. I ended up with a C and I was pretty proud of that.
Controls was a killer. So many people failed out of it and our teacher didn't care. Our class test averages were in the 40's. I ended up with a C and I was pretty proud of that.
The funniest part of electrical circuits is that none of those equations work in real life haha. Length of wire, type of wire, heat blah blah blah all affect the the final output haha. No one calculates by hand anymore and if you do it's so simplified compared to actual situation so your answer means nothing.
My laptop is like 2k, camera is 3, battery grip is like 500ish lenses are like. 6-7k, if i have them all in there (i rarely do though)
The funniest part of electrical circuits is that none of those equations work in real life haha. Length of wire, type of wire, heat blah blah blah all affect the the final output haha. No one calculates by hand anymore and if you do it's so simplified compared to actual situation so your answer means nothing.
The beauty of EL is that it's paper thin so you can fit it under the sill pretty easy. With LED, you'd really want to use a light guide sheet to get even illumination with a thin installation like the sill. That isn't the easiest thing to do.
Downside to EL is the color choices. Getting that aqua illumination is easy and it'll look pretty nice when it's off since it'll be pretty white. Red illumination isn't brilliant, and getting a white illumination will leave you with sort of a nasty pink look when it's off.
I'd recommend putting a thin layer of stiff-ish plastic *behind* the EL strip when you install it if it will be touching anything. EL sheets are susceptible to damage from contamination. Like if you get a small piece of grit behind the lamp, it can poke it's way into the lamp and potentially cause a short between the two electrode layers. It'll cause a small burn but luckily will eventually create enough of a char to insulate itself and the rest of the lamp will still work. I imagine there is a good chance of getting some crap in the area since it's in the door, near the floor, and sand and junk could easily get in there.
Oh, and tape up any cuts you make (edges of the lamp, etc). Moisture intrusion into the layers of the lamp will short it out pretty quickly. Especially in high humidity environments.
Downside to EL is the color choices. Getting that aqua illumination is easy and it'll look pretty nice when it's off since it'll be pretty white. Red illumination isn't brilliant, and getting a white illumination will leave you with sort of a nasty pink look when it's off.
I'd recommend putting a thin layer of stiff-ish plastic *behind* the EL strip when you install it if it will be touching anything. EL sheets are susceptible to damage from contamination. Like if you get a small piece of grit behind the lamp, it can poke it's way into the lamp and potentially cause a short between the two electrode layers. It'll cause a small burn but luckily will eventually create enough of a char to insulate itself and the rest of the lamp will still work. I imagine there is a good chance of getting some crap in the area since it's in the door, near the floor, and sand and junk could easily get in there.
Oh, and tape up any cuts you make (edges of the lamp, etc). Moisture intrusion into the layers of the lamp will short it out pretty quickly. Especially in high humidity environments.
ask and you shall receive. make mine after you make joe's =D
https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g...-sills-921417/
The step by step from the thread, he posted it later down for more concise instructions, his first posts include plenty of pics and a great DIY guide
https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g...-sills-921417/
The step by step from the thread, he posted it later down for more concise instructions, his first posts include plenty of pics and a great DIY guide
Alright, for brevity fans, here are the step-by-step high-level instructions:
Prerequisites
Manufacturing: Glue and Finish
Manufacturing: EL-Tape
Installation
Prerequisites
- Order laser-cut 1.5mm clear acrylic parts from ponoko.com; DI-NOC, 5mm adhesive copper tape, Weld-On and applicator from ebay; EL Tapes and inverters from Lightkraft
- Buy black silicon caulk, black flat paint from HomeDepot
- Get soldering supplies, CAT6 wire, heat shrink tubing, heat gun
- Remove door sills, remove aluminum part from the sills' base.
Manufacturing: Glue and Finish
- Apply DI-NOC to the face of the top overlay part. Use heat gun @100C and hands.
- Cut DI-NOC along perimeter and letters
- Glue the bottom and top parts of the overlay by pressing them together and applying the Weld-On with the applicator along the perimeter and letters. Weld-On will be sucked between the parts via capillary action, and the initial bond will be achieved within the first 1-2 minutes.
- Shape the rear overlays by applying the heat gun @300C to the bottom, bending and pressing the overlays into their bases.
- Sand the bottom of the overlays, paint edges with black paint.
Manufacturing: EL-Tape
- Cut 1m EL Tapes so that the piece with the preassembled connector is long enough to cover the entire front sill. The remaining piece w/o connector will be used for the matching rear sill.
- Remove heat-shrink tubing protecting preassembled connectors. That will expose solder points and copper foil. Desolder the existing wires.
- Make a slit for the EL Tape near the clip on the side of the sill base that will be mounted closer to the center pillar. Confirm that there is a depression in the car's metal sill around the rectangular hole that the clip will go into. I have it in my '08, IDK how it is in '04-06.
- Bend the end of the EL Tape so that after passing it through the slit you'll still have at least 1cm of laminated copper foil on the base's top side, but verify that the foil is not visible through cut areas of the overlay.
- Use caulk to attach the EL Tape to the base. The tape will attempt to coil, to prevent that clamp the overlays on top.
- For the rear sills strip some laminate from one end of the tape, attach adhesive copper foil. EL Tape from Lightkraft has one fat central conductor and two narrow conductors on the sides. Attaching foil to the fat conductor is a no-brainer, for the side one wrap the foil around the edge of the tape so that 50% of it is on the front side and the other 50% is on the back.
- Once the caulk has dried, trim the end of the tape that is sticking from the slit, solder wires, and seal the slit with caulk. The wires should stick out between the two plastic parts of the clip because they will go along with the clips into the metal door sill.
- Run a bead of caulk along the base's perimeter, and glue the overlay on top
Installation
- Disconnect battery
- Remove cabin sill, front and center pillars trim
- Remove front overhead light sunroof switch by prying its rear side
- Remove front overhead light by pulling its rear side down
- Run wires from the overhead light along the headliner to the front pillar, then down to the floor, then to the center pillar.
- Strip insulation from wires going to pins 1 and 5 of the 20-pin connector (#1 is BLU/WHT = +12V, #5 is GRN/RED). Solder your fished wires to the exposed conductors.
- Remove seat belt assemblies, tuck inverters behind, put the assemblies back
- For each door drill one extra hole near the existing hole where the cabin sill trim's clip used to be
- Install the sills by fishing the wires through the drilled holes inside the cabin
- Solder inverters to the wires ran from the overhead lights, and to the wires coming from the sills
Last edited by PyroDave; Dec 12, 2014 at 01:38 PM.
ask and you shall receive. make mine after you make joe's =D
https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g...-sills-921417/
The step by step from the thread, he posted it later down for more concise instructions, his first posts include plenty of pics and a great DIY guide
https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g...-sills-921417/
The step by step from the thread, he posted it later down for more concise instructions, his first posts include plenty of pics and a great DIY guide
Dave has been busy and was in DR for a week for a wedding, don't you keep up with my facebook and instagram you ho.
PS: Stella said i'm not invited to the wedding anymore, apparently you traded 24 of your seats to her family so that you could order more car parts before the wedding, and i didn't make the cut. not cool brah, i was gonna be the best flower girl
I'm going to run a duct from my AC and blow the air straight into my intake. I don't see why no one has thought of this before.
it cost Saudi Arabia 2 dollars a barrel.
it cost what in the US......maybe 40-50.
they figure eventually they will win.
or cause a recession here.
but in further digging their true cost is much higher cause they need to keep all the minions happy with free stuff and pensions and the good life.
it cost what in the US......maybe 40-50.
they figure eventually they will win.
or cause a recession here.
but in further digging their true cost is much higher cause they need to keep all the minions happy with free stuff and pensions and the good life.
Post just before mine.








