Ingalls Front Camber Issue
#1
NJ - '03 SSM TL-S
Thread Starter
Ingalls Front Camber Issue
I had a shop recently install the front camber kit in my car which is the control arm with the ball joint set held together with 4 hex screws. When I got it out of the shop, it was rubbing, but not from where you'd expect. I'm dropped pretty low, but the tires weren't rubbing. The camber kit was rubbing. The ball joint had to slide out so much for camber correction that the actual tip of the balljoint assembly is rubbing on the inner fender.
I thought it was a plastic thing rubbing (even though it was eating away at the metal balljoint), so I cut that piece out. Underneath that was a metal flap. So i bent that away from the camber kit. And it's still rubbing. The only thing I can see is the inside fender itself. I mean technically to keep the 0 alignment I should just bang out the metal, but this is ridiculous now. Why is the design so bad that I'd have to do this. I figure I'm just going to go back to the alignment place and have them shift it back towards the control arm a little.
Secondly, with the rear camber kit I got the one that has two arms on the bottom (also ingalls). Now I'm no professional, but my wheels were drastically angled before from having no camber kit. But now after the installation and alignment... I still have the exact same drastic camber. The threads are in all the way on the arms, so I can't blame it on that, but again definitely very far from 0.
Has anyone had the same problems? All my tires have a 0 finger drop on TEINSS's. I do not see how this can be only an issue for me because this is a pretty standard install for everyone on these forums. Ahh my car is dying
To top it off I saw a leak coming from the boot that's on the steering rod. It looks like power steering fluid. =(
I thought it was a plastic thing rubbing (even though it was eating away at the metal balljoint), so I cut that piece out. Underneath that was a metal flap. So i bent that away from the camber kit. And it's still rubbing. The only thing I can see is the inside fender itself. I mean technically to keep the 0 alignment I should just bang out the metal, but this is ridiculous now. Why is the design so bad that I'd have to do this. I figure I'm just going to go back to the alignment place and have them shift it back towards the control arm a little.
Secondly, with the rear camber kit I got the one that has two arms on the bottom (also ingalls). Now I'm no professional, but my wheels were drastically angled before from having no camber kit. But now after the installation and alignment... I still have the exact same drastic camber. The threads are in all the way on the arms, so I can't blame it on that, but again definitely very far from 0.
Has anyone had the same problems? All my tires have a 0 finger drop on TEINSS's. I do not see how this can be only an issue for me because this is a pretty standard install for everyone on these forums. Ahh my car is dying
To top it off I saw a leak coming from the boot that's on the steering rod. It looks like power steering fluid. =(
#6
Ackniculous One
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: ATL Shawwwwtyyyy
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I have ingalls in the rear and I have no issues at all. a good aligner should know exactly what to do. Do you have the 38720 rear kit or the 38725 kit...I have commented quite a bit on this topic in the suspension forum and also Excelerate's camber kit sale thread...basically, if your factory control arms are the same length, you need the 38720 kit..if your oem control arms are different lenghts on same side, you need 38725 kit for the 03 TL...turns out my car was made in Dec 02 but sold as an 03 model..the suspension was slightly changed even though it was the same year believe it or not...some 03s require the 38725 kit..i worked directly with Ingalls at their facility in Colorado.
As far as the front, something doesn't sound right at all...I would contact Ingalls directly and ask for Todd. either you have the wrong version or it wasn't installed correctly..my rear wheels are straight up and down exactly at factory specs and I have about a 2" drop
As far as the front, something doesn't sound right at all...I would contact Ingalls directly and ask for Todd. either you have the wrong version or it wasn't installed correctly..my rear wheels are straight up and down exactly at factory specs and I have about a 2" drop
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#8
I had a similar issue on mine. The ball joint wasnt rubbing, but the corner of one arm was. I had to grind a little off it so it didnt rub.
The ball joint definately is close to the frame. If I was to slide it out to the max positive position, im pretty sure mine would hit too. Thankfully I got within spec without using the inner most holes in the ball joint mount. I used the outer most and middle holes for the hex bolts.
You have to tell the alignment guy to sacrifice on positive camber, so nothing hits. Maybe a long shot, but were all 4 hex bolts installed? If someone didnt know better, they may have installed just the 2 bolts, which would allow the ball joint to extend beyond its intended amount.
The ball joint definately is close to the frame. If I was to slide it out to the max positive position, im pretty sure mine would hit too. Thankfully I got within spec without using the inner most holes in the ball joint mount. I used the outer most and middle holes for the hex bolts.
You have to tell the alignment guy to sacrifice on positive camber, so nothing hits. Maybe a long shot, but were all 4 hex bolts installed? If someone didnt know better, they may have installed just the 2 bolts, which would allow the ball joint to extend beyond its intended amount.
#9
prototype
Join Date: Feb 2003
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i had this problem with my 1st gen CL. however, i was pretty damn low... but yeah, to get the camber to be corrected, i was going through control arms at a ridiculous pace. eventually i said screw it, took the kit out, and just had it aligned as best as it could be. ended up being better off that way, IMO.
#15
Instructor
iTrader: (2)
^ how low are you? Measure the distance from the highest point of your fender to the ground. if you're anywhere lower than 24" there's no solving that issue... When you're slammed, your Upper Control arms will hit the strut tower.
so what would i need to camber in my rear on a 03 TL my wheels are 18x8.5 245/45/18
#22
Racer
iTrader: (2)
hey i have ingalls the whole control arm and yea it hits the frame i thought it would hit it self out but no luck yet it never did this with the stock control arm and i was more dropped i actually rasied and car a bit and installed the ingalls and its knocking and yea on my car its more the driver side then the passenger side i saw on the cl side some guy cut a hole on the shock tower for clearence but i didnt want to do that
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