When I'm braking from doing 60 or higher, my steering wheel shakes.

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Old Jun 9, 2007 | 12:38 PM
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From: The Great Big Apple...
When I'm braking from doing 60 or higher, my steering wheel shakes.

What could be the problem here? I'm driving and doing about 60 and better and when I start breaking to slow down the steering wheel shakes. I'm thinking that I need to replace my rotors. I just changed my break pads, so I'm assuming it's the rotors. Can any1 give me advice on what it could be.....
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Old Jun 9, 2007 | 01:04 PM
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From: Appleton WI
If it shakes while braking its the rotors
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Old Jun 9, 2007 | 02:11 PM
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mine does the same exact thing too at hight speeds only i plan on changing rotors and pads.
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Old Jun 9, 2007 | 07:24 PM
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change the rotors. Has this problem started since you changed the pads? If so or not, do not over tighten the lug nuts as it can damage the rotor.
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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 12:25 AM
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Exclamation My Alarm Light

My alarm light only blinks after I change my oil. The guys press the reset mileage buttons I think to get it going again. It turned off again, does anyone know how to fix this issue?
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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 02:32 AM
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^Huh? Anyways, Change your rotors, I hate that shaking. Do not use Honda rotors. Youd be better off going with aftermarket. I went with Rotora slotted rotors + ebc green stuff pads = GREAT BRAKING, but, not quiet enough for me.
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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 10:54 AM
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Change your rotors as soon as possible! If your rotors are warped they will unevenly wear your pads, if you take too long to change them and the pads wear unevenly, A) they won't make the best contact on the rotor and B) they may help the new rotors warp again.
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Old Jun 11, 2007 | 12:44 AM
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From: The Great Big Apple...
So what rotors and pads should I go with that's gonna be quiet and stop the vehicle well. I was thinking rotora rotors and pads. Any suggestions?
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Old Jun 11, 2007 | 05:46 PM
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Some guys have had good experiences with Brembo blank rotors and axxis pads. Thats my next set-up.
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Old Jun 11, 2007 | 06:00 PM
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From: Appleton WI
Originally Posted by TL_Fo_Life
Some guys have had good experiences with Brembo blank rotors and axxis pads. Thats my next set-up.
not axxis. they are the single worst pad i have ever had. and for those who dont like brake dust you DONT want this pad
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Old Jun 12, 2007 | 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by TL_Fo_Life
Some guys have had good experiences with Brembo blank rotors and axxis pads. Thats my next set-up.
I bought a used 2nd Gen TL about 6 months ago. I did the following:


http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...+Slotted+Rotor
I got mine for my 2001 3.2TL from TR at $85/$25 each fr/rr.


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=160124745684
I then bought Axxis/PBR Ultimate Pads Front & Rear off eBay for $85 for All 4 sides + S&H&I.

Last thing I bought was Stainless Steel Brake Lines.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=200117733121
I offered $50 and was accepted with S&H&I.

So after 10,000 miles... My brakes stopped great, no warping, and same amount of dust as the OEM without being as expensive or quick wearing.

Axxis Ultimate Brake Pads are the same pads Stoptech sells with many of there street kits, can't see why know one would like them.

I've installed them on my NSX, M3, & TL. If they were available for our other cars, they'd be on them.
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Old Jun 12, 2007 | 06:20 PM
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From: Appleton WI
Originally Posted by CarCrazed4Life

Axxis Ultimate Brake Pads are the same pads Stoptech sells with many of there street kits, can't see why know one would like them.

I've installed them on my NSX, M3, & TL. If they were available for our other cars, they'd be on them.
Because the stock pads did better at handling heat (know this from experience at the track) and the HUGE amount of dust they produced. They are NO WHERE NEAR the amount of dust as oem.
This is what they they would produce in half a week of driving. (my friends were the same way along with many members cars here)

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Old Jun 13, 2007 | 04:15 AM
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From: The Great Big Apple...
Damn that's alot of break dust.
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Old Jun 16, 2007 | 12:48 PM
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I have the same problem when braking. I just replaced my rotors and pads with high performance equipment. Its been 3 days now and the shake is coming back. Could it be the wheel bearing are going out or worse?
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Old Jun 16, 2007 | 05:26 PM
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l33t

Welcome to the forum
What brand rotors and pads did you install
Often- hi performance brakes require special break in procedures called bedding the pads.
Depending on what rotors and pads you installed there is some variation as to the method
It can take over 500 miles of normal driving plus the special method before the brakes are working right-
Caliper grease on all the contact point is crucial to smooth quiet operation also


Napsoner-
if you replaced pads without turning the rotors or at least cleaning them with 130 grit sandpaper to remove old brake pad residue- that will cause problems

Users of RacingBrake rotors-
I have new tech info from MrHeelToe and RB on even better pads for our very hi tech rotors than the HPS many of us use now. PM me for info
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 02:22 PM
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Thanks for the response!

I bought the Powerslot Cryo series rotors and EBC Red Stuff pads. All was bought new. I thoroughly cleaned the calipers and all areas around the hub that showed any signs of brake dust.

This will be the second time I have changed out my rotors and pads, just to try and get rid of this shake. Initially after installation the shaking was not apparent but its now been a week and its back, not quite as bad but its back . I am afraid it will get worse. Any advice?
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 05:39 PM
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From: Appleton WI
were the wheels torqued to 80 ft/lb? thats a quick way of warping rotors by not having them torqued properly. How may miles do you have? If you have over 300 i would try bedding them in to see if that helps. You may have a caliper thats slightly hanging causing this repeated glazing
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 08:56 PM
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Seems like several of us are discovering the dangers of never flushing the brake fluid!!
You do a brake job- some crud gets stirred up and the caliper gets funky!
Flush brake fluid before any work and annually after that
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 10:30 PM
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Do not buy axxis, way too much brake dust and make squeaky noise at low speed braking. Bought Hawk High performance pads, waiting to install them once I get my car from tranny shop
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Old Jun 20, 2007 | 09:02 AM
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From: Appleton WI
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
Seems like several of us are discovering the dangers of never flushing the brake fluid!!
You do a brake job- some crud gets stirred up and the caliper gets funky!
Flush brake fluid before any work and annually after that
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Old Jun 20, 2007 | 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
were the wheels torqued to 80 ft/lb? thats a quick way of warping rotors by not having them torqued properly. How may miles do you have? If you have over 300 i would try bedding them in to see if that helps. You may have a caliper thats slightly hanging causing this repeated glazing
Yes the wheels were torques to spec. I had all wheels rebalanced and rotated just incase. I have only put ~150 miles on the new rotors. I was speaking to a friend yesterday about this and he had a similar problem which turned out to be his control arm. I have scheduled an appt at the dealer to have them take a look at it. Its still under warranty so hopefully no unexpected cost will be incurred. I will let yall know the outcome.
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Old Jun 25, 2007 | 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
Because the stock pads did better at handling heat (know this from experience at the track) and the HUGE amount of dust they produced. They are NO WHERE NEAR the amount of dust as oem.
This is what they they would produce in half a week of driving. (my friends were the same way along with many members cars here)

Wowwy wow! thats alot of brake dust... I guees my green stuff pads are not too bad. (compared to axxis) thanks for the pic.
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Old Sep 7, 2007 | 03:17 AM
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Originally Posted by l33t_Acura
Yes the wheels were torques to spec. I had all wheels rebalanced and rotated just incase. I have only put ~150 miles on the new rotors. I was speaking to a friend yesterday about this and he had a similar problem which turned out to be his control arm. I have scheduled an appt at the dealer to have them take a look at it. Its still under warranty so hopefully no unexpected cost will be incurred. I will let yall know the outcome.

any updates?
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