When I'm braking from doing 60 or higher, my steering wheel shakes.
When I'm braking from doing 60 or higher, my steering wheel shakes.
What could be the problem here? I'm driving and doing about 60 and better and when I start breaking to slow down the steering wheel shakes. I'm thinking that I need to replace my rotors. I just changed my break pads, so I'm assuming it's the rotors. Can any1 give me advice on what it could be.....
My alarm light only blinks after I change my oil. The guys press the reset mileage buttons I think to get it going again. It turned off again, does anyone know how to fix this issue?
^Huh? Anyways, Change your rotors, I hate that shaking. Do not use Honda rotors. Youd be better off going with aftermarket. I went with Rotora slotted rotors + ebc green stuff pads = GREAT BRAKING, but, not quiet enough for me.
Change your rotors as soon as possible! If your rotors are warped they will unevenly wear your pads, if you take too long to change them and the pads wear unevenly, A) they won't make the best contact on the rotor and B) they may help the new rotors warp again.
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Originally Posted by TL_Fo_Life
Some guys have had good experiences with Brembo blank rotors and axxis pads. Thats my next set-up.
Originally Posted by TL_Fo_Life
Some guys have had good experiences with Brembo blank rotors and axxis pads. Thats my next set-up.

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...+Slotted+Rotor
I got mine for my 2001 3.2TL from TR at $85/$25 each fr/rr.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=160124745684
I then bought Axxis/PBR Ultimate Pads Front & Rear off eBay for $85 for All 4 sides + S&H&I.
Last thing I bought was Stainless Steel Brake Lines.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=200117733121
I offered $50 and was accepted with S&H&I.
So after 10,000 miles... My brakes stopped great, no warping, and same amount of dust as the OEM without being as expensive or quick wearing.
Axxis Ultimate Brake Pads are the same pads Stoptech sells with many of there street kits, can't see why know one would like them.
I've installed them on my NSX, M3, & TL. If they were available for our other cars, they'd be on them.
Originally Posted by CarCrazed4Life
Axxis Ultimate Brake Pads are the same pads Stoptech sells with many of there street kits, can't see why know one would like them.
I've installed them on my NSX, M3, & TL. If they were available for our other cars, they'd be on them.
This is what they they would produce in half a week of driving. (my friends were the same way along with many members cars here)
l33t
Welcome to the forum
What brand rotors and pads did you install
Often- hi performance brakes require special break in procedures called bedding the pads.
Depending on what rotors and pads you installed there is some variation as to the method
It can take over 500 miles of normal driving plus the special method before the brakes are working right-
Caliper grease on all the contact point is crucial to smooth quiet operation also
Napsoner-
if you replaced pads without turning the rotors or at least cleaning them with 130 grit sandpaper to remove old brake pad residue- that will cause problems
Users of RacingBrake rotors-
I have new tech info from MrHeelToe and RB on even better pads for our very hi tech rotors than the HPS many of us use now. PM me for info
Welcome to the forum
What brand rotors and pads did you install
Often- hi performance brakes require special break in procedures called bedding the pads.
Depending on what rotors and pads you installed there is some variation as to the method
It can take over 500 miles of normal driving plus the special method before the brakes are working right-
Caliper grease on all the contact point is crucial to smooth quiet operation also
Napsoner-
if you replaced pads without turning the rotors or at least cleaning them with 130 grit sandpaper to remove old brake pad residue- that will cause problems
Users of RacingBrake rotors-
I have new tech info from MrHeelToe and RB on even better pads for our very hi tech rotors than the HPS many of us use now. PM me for info
Thanks for the response!
I bought the Powerslot Cryo series rotors and EBC Red Stuff pads. All was bought new. I thoroughly cleaned the calipers and all areas around the hub that showed any signs of brake dust.
This will be the second time I have changed out my rotors and pads, just to try and get rid of this shake. Initially after installation the shaking was not apparent but its now been a week and its back, not quite as bad but its back
. I am afraid it will get worse. Any advice?
I bought the Powerslot Cryo series rotors and EBC Red Stuff pads. All was bought new. I thoroughly cleaned the calipers and all areas around the hub that showed any signs of brake dust.
This will be the second time I have changed out my rotors and pads, just to try and get rid of this shake. Initially after installation the shaking was not apparent but its now been a week and its back, not quite as bad but its back
. I am afraid it will get worse. Any advice?
were the wheels torqued to 80 ft/lb? thats a quick way of warping rotors by not having them torqued properly. How may miles do you have? If you have over 300 i would try bedding them in to see if that helps. You may have a caliper thats slightly hanging causing this repeated glazing
Seems like several of us are discovering the dangers of never flushing the brake fluid!!
You do a brake job- some crud gets stirred up and the caliper gets funky!
Flush brake fluid before any work and annually after that
You do a brake job- some crud gets stirred up and the caliper gets funky!
Flush brake fluid before any work and annually after that
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
Seems like several of us are discovering the dangers of never flushing the brake fluid!!
You do a brake job- some crud gets stirred up and the caliper gets funky!
Flush brake fluid before any work and annually after that
You do a brake job- some crud gets stirred up and the caliper gets funky!
Flush brake fluid before any work and annually after that
Originally Posted by fsttyms1
were the wheels torqued to 80 ft/lb? thats a quick way of warping rotors by not having them torqued properly. How may miles do you have? If you have over 300 i would try bedding them in to see if that helps. You may have a caliper thats slightly hanging causing this repeated glazing
Originally Posted by fsttyms1
Because the stock pads did better at handling heat (know this from experience at the track) and the HUGE amount of dust they produced. They are NO WHERE NEAR the amount of dust as oem.
This is what they they would produce in half a week of driving. (my friends were the same way along with many members cars here)

This is what they they would produce in half a week of driving. (my friends were the same way along with many members cars here)

Originally Posted by l33t_Acura
Yes the wheels were torques to spec. I had all wheels rebalanced and rotated just incase. I have only put ~150 miles on the new rotors. I was speaking to a friend yesterday about this and he had a similar problem which turned out to be his control arm. I have scheduled an appt at the dealer to have them take a look at it. Its still under warranty so hopefully no unexpected cost will be incurred. I will let yall know the outcome.
any updates?
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