VSA light still on after repair
VSA light still on after repair
After sending my car to the garage for the misfire, which ended up being three bad injectors, the VSA light is still on. The garage said they ordered a new switch because they said it felt funny...I took the switch apart and it appeared to be fine. The cruise switch below it clicks on an off when you hit it, but the VSA switch doesn't...
Now, when I turn the key (just befor starting the engine), the VSA light comes on then there is a click under the hood, the pic:

The sound come from the box with the cable running to it.
I checked the wheel sensors and they appear to be in good order, I checked the brake fluid and topped it off...
Where can I look next?
There are no colde being thrown...
thanks
Now, when I turn the key (just befor starting the engine), the VSA light comes on then there is a click under the hood, the pic:
The sound come from the box with the cable running to it.
I checked the wheel sensors and they appear to be in good order, I checked the brake fluid and topped it off...
Where can I look next?
There are no colde being thrown...
thanks
that pic is your cruise control. It has noting to do with your VSA. If you hear any noise on startup there its probably the pump. So you looked at a sensor and deemed it ok? They need to be tested, not just looked at.
Now how do I test this, This car is so new school to me, I'm used to working on less complicated cars...thanks for the response, the old man is still learning new things...
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I checked fuses, none are burned out...
What I found out
I have a 2002 TL Type-S with 145500... I had the CEL come on first and I just figured I needed new plugs because I had a misfire on 5. Then I remembered that the dealer put new plugs in at 112,000 when they replaced my tranny (part of the class action lawsuit). Then a week later while I was waiting to make the appointment with the dealer the VSA & TCS (exclamation point) lights came on when I started the car. Then after the engine warmed up if I turned the car off and on the VSA & TCS lights turned off. I took it to the dealer and explained the problem. They said that my valves tighten up and I needed a valve adjustment. I gave them permission to do the work and when I went to pick up the car all 3 lights were still on. I left it another day and the tech said he thought I was losing compression due to exhaust valves not closing but he was not sure. Then they came back and told me that they were looking for a used engine. I told them to stop and I was going to take it to my mechanic. When I went to pick the car up they told me it did not need an engine but the head gasket was leaking.
I took it to my mechanic and he ran a compression test said just like the dealer told me they did. He found that the intake valve on cylinder 6 needed to be adjusted. It was completely closed. They need to be 0.22 mm +/- .02mm (sticker on hood) and it was set at 0.00. He made that adjustment and the car is running just fine.
The problem with Acura misfire codes is that they are misleading. I would suggest that you have someone check your intake valves.
I took it to my mechanic and he ran a compression test said just like the dealer told me they did. He found that the intake valve on cylinder 6 needed to be adjusted. It was completely closed. They need to be 0.22 mm +/- .02mm (sticker on hood) and it was set at 0.00. He made that adjustment and the car is running just fine.
The problem with Acura misfire codes is that they are misleading. I would suggest that you have someone check your intake valves.
I have a 2002 TL Type-S with 145500... I had the CEL come on first and I just figured I needed new plugs because I had a misfire on 5. Then I remembered that the dealer put new plugs in at 112,000 when they replaced my tranny (part of the class action lawsuit). Then a week later while I was waiting to make the appointment with the dealer the VSA & TCS (exclamation point) lights came on when I started the car. Then after the engine warmed up if I turned the car off and on the VSA & TCS lights turned off. I took it to the dealer and explained the problem. They said that my valves tighten up and I needed a valve adjustment. I gave them permission to do the work and when I went to pick up the car all 3 lights were still on. I left it another day and the tech said he thought I was losing compression due to exhaust valves not closing but he was not sure. Then they came back and told me that they were looking for a used engine. I told them to stop and I was going to take it to my mechanic. When I went to pick the car up they told me it did not need an engine but the head gasket was leaking.
I took it to my mechanic and he ran a compression test said just like the dealer told me they did. He found that the intake valve on cylinder 6 needed to be adjusted. It was completely closed. They need to be 0.22 mm +/- .02mm (sticker on hood) and it was set at 0.00. He made that adjustment and the car is running just fine.
The problem with Acura misfire codes is that they are misleading. I would suggest that you have someone check your intake valves.
I took it to my mechanic and he ran a compression test said just like the dealer told me they did. He found that the intake valve on cylinder 6 needed to be adjusted. It was completely closed. They need to be 0.22 mm +/- .02mm (sticker on hood) and it was set at 0.00. He made that adjustment and the car is running just fine.
The problem with Acura misfire codes is that they are misleading. I would suggest that you have someone check your intake valves.
I've been having a similar issue with my VSA and ! light coming on as well. My ABS works fine but no traction at all. My issue is slightly different. The ! light comes on right after I start the engine at any point and then the VSA light comes on after 1km of driving or so. I have checked the wheel sensors and they work fine ( Tested by disconnecting them ). As soon as I disconnected the ABS light came on...so I know that they are working...like I said ABS works 100%...just got through Canadian Winter and they all pulsed correctly. I'm not too sure about the Traction though. I would have to pay $100 for a scan and don't have that kind of money laying around right now.
My VSA light would come on also. It was my steering angle sensor on the steering column by the steering wheel. You need to take it to the dealer or a shop that has a scan tool that can pull those codes. A regular scan tool will not be able to.
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