VSA and ABS light both on!
#1
VSA and ABS light both on!
While driving on the highway, my vsa and abs light both came on at the same time. I stopped, turned off the engine, and checked to see if there were any wires loose under the hood near the mast cylinder and didn't see any. I turned the engine on again and both the lights turned off as i was accelerating. Just a minute into driving again, both lights came on again!
Can someone tell me what's wrong with it or have any clues? Thanks in advance.
Can someone tell me what's wrong with it or have any clues? Thanks in advance.
#2
Senior Moderator
Probably a wheel speed sensor. Only way to find out is to have the codes read by a machine that can read ABS codes.
#4
dont keep driving it!!!!
get to a major parts store who can scan the codes for free. The small cover between the seat heat switches pops out- the code reader plugs in- done!
You may have a simple broken or corroded ABS wheel sensor lead, or there may be a tranmission problem
Whats the current miles? ever get the recall done for the trans oil jet kit?
acura 1-800-382-2238 x5 give them your VIN and ask if all the recalls have been taken care of
Could be some freebies in your future~
get to a major parts store who can scan the codes for free. The small cover between the seat heat switches pops out- the code reader plugs in- done!
You may have a simple broken or corroded ABS wheel sensor lead, or there may be a tranmission problem
Whats the current miles? ever get the recall done for the trans oil jet kit?
acura 1-800-382-2238 x5 give them your VIN and ask if all the recalls have been taken care of
Could be some freebies in your future~
#5
the warning systems is designed to throw lights and get your attention- not really tell you whats wrong,
and codes are symptoms- not diagnosis!!!
Get the codes, and between us- we can usually figure it out or have experienced it
and codes are symptoms- not diagnosis!!!
Get the codes, and between us- we can usually figure it out or have experienced it
#6
Acura TLS are SLOW
I dont think autozone have any type scanner that can read ABS codes, unless they use a Snap On Modis or Solus with the the correct card. Your better off going to the dealer for that problem. I have the same issue as you, but dont have the money to get it checked out. Like Fsttyms1 says, its most likely a wheel speed sensor, since mine only comes on when I first start up and cut the wheel.
#7
dont keep driving it!!!!
get to a major parts store who can scan the codes for free. The small cover between the seat heat switches pops out- the code reader plugs in- done!
You may have a simple broken or corroded ABS wheel sensor lead, or there may be a tranmission problem
Whats the current miles? ever get the recall done for the trans oil jet kit?
acura 1-800-382-2238 x5 give them your VIN and ask if all the recalls have been taken care of
Could be some freebies in your future~
get to a major parts store who can scan the codes for free. The small cover between the seat heat switches pops out- the code reader plugs in- done!
You may have a simple broken or corroded ABS wheel sensor lead, or there may be a tranmission problem
Whats the current miles? ever get the recall done for the trans oil jet kit?
acura 1-800-382-2238 x5 give them your VIN and ask if all the recalls have been taken care of
Could be some freebies in your future~
Current miles on the car is 105,xxx and i tried calling acura with the vin, which they told me i'm not covered cause it was the 2nd half of the production.
I did drive it today and everything seems normal.
Trending Topics
#8
acura 800 gave you the standard line about not covered vin- but if its trans prob- getting warranty coverage is fairly easy- we know how!
Did you ever have the recall oil jet kit done?
kragen-autozone should be able to get a code if its wheel speed sensor, just not diagnose deep ABS problems- ---which you do not have~
Did you ever have the recall oil jet kit done?
kragen-autozone should be able to get a code if its wheel speed sensor, just not diagnose deep ABS problems- ---which you do not have~
#9
once those lights have activated- they store a code, so they dont have to be on to get checked
#10
I'm not sure if i have the oil jet kit done. I bought it two years ago with 68k on it and never had any trans issue till this day (knocks on wood).
I did pass by autozone today and asked for my system to be checked for any codes even though my CEL wasn't on. They did check it and my system passed with no codes.
Is there another way to check for these codes?
I did pass by autozone today and asked for my system to be checked for any codes even though my CEL wasn't on. They did check it and my system passed with no codes.
Is there another way to check for these codes?
#11
Acura has a different scanner that can find codes the store cant-
Sometimes you have to go to the dealer and have it checked
Open the hood and Look at the top of the transmission- is there an uncluttered bare top of the trans case, with an inch wide bolt head marked ATF???
or is there a small oil line and weird device going into the hole where that ATF fill bolt should be??? thats the oil jet kit
Acura 800 can also tell you if it was done
or look on your acura.com account under recall
If that was not done- they will do it now and use a boroscope camera to look for heat damage to certain parts- if there is any- you get a free transmission
MAKE A CALL or go look now!
Trans probs dont show many signs- then fail
on acura.com there is a list of known symptoms to watch for
Sometimes you have to go to the dealer and have it checked
Open the hood and Look at the top of the transmission- is there an uncluttered bare top of the trans case, with an inch wide bolt head marked ATF???
or is there a small oil line and weird device going into the hole where that ATF fill bolt should be??? thats the oil jet kit
Acura 800 can also tell you if it was done
or look on your acura.com account under recall
If that was not done- they will do it now and use a boroscope camera to look for heat damage to certain parts- if there is any- you get a free transmission
MAKE A CALL or go look now!
Trans probs dont show many signs- then fail
on acura.com there is a list of known symptoms to watch for
#12
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LOOK SIMILAR THREAD!!!
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-problems-fixes-117/multiple-codes-please-help-701037/
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-problems-fixes-117/multiple-codes-please-help-701037/
#13
02 WDP type-S Navi
same thing happened to me two years ago, acura dealership reset my ecu and told me to drive it and if it comes back on to bring it back. Service writer didn't tell me exactly what they replaced said they have to open up where the side air bag is and replace a sensor or some crap. I was under warranty though so they probably figured, he ain't paying for it any how so I'm not gonna bother going into detail.
#16
the easiest way to find out if your CL/TL is covered under the warranty claim and if the recall has been fixed is to REGISTER THE CAR WITH OWNER'S LINK. Takes a whole 5 minutes and once you have it will give you the status of the 2nd gear recall (either fixed or OPEN) and the warranty extension will be listed if applicable to your car.
start here
www.owners.acura.com
start here
www.owners.acura.com
#17
Here is the new link- need your VIN to register
http://owners.acura.com/registration...erstepone.aspx
also call 1-800-382-2238 x5 and register- thats customer care, and can look up recalls (the `external oil jet kit` to 2nd gear-its not 2nd gear itself) make sure that was done
tell you about the trans warranty- the special SRS/airbag 10year-150k mile warranty- so when the red SRS light comes on/stays on- go to the dealer asap
also can tell you about the seat belt warranty, and any warranty repairs the car ever had
On the website you can securely store the radio and nav codes- plus learn a lot about the car- have a good read!
http://owners.acura.com/registration...erstepone.aspx
also call 1-800-382-2238 x5 and register- thats customer care, and can look up recalls (the `external oil jet kit` to 2nd gear-its not 2nd gear itself) make sure that was done
tell you about the trans warranty- the special SRS/airbag 10year-150k mile warranty- so when the red SRS light comes on/stays on- go to the dealer asap
also can tell you about the seat belt warranty, and any warranty repairs the car ever had
On the website you can securely store the radio and nav codes- plus learn a lot about the car- have a good read!
#19
bummer- rebuilt/salvage loses the transmission warranty, and expect them to charge for the diagnosis too! they dont work for free!
aamco will do a free diagnosis for you- rebuilding is about $2200-2500
Acura may price match to get the job- this is the slowest week of the year for auto repair
you DO still get warranty/recall fix for SRS and seatbelts
aamco will do a free diagnosis for you- rebuilding is about $2200-2500
Acura may price match to get the job- this is the slowest week of the year for auto repair
you DO still get warranty/recall fix for SRS and seatbelts
#20
you still have not checked if its simply a wheel speed sensor broken-corroded-damaged
Especially now,knowing its salvage title - was it ever wet? a katrina car?
Look under the car, or have a brake specialty shop or honda/acura private shop check that out
Electrical current test if they all pass the visual and tug test will tell you whats up.
Those are cheap and easy to replace!
You would not be the first person with speed sensor failure
Its still shifting fine? and the trans fluid does not smell burnt?
Especially now,knowing its salvage title - was it ever wet? a katrina car?
Look under the car, or have a brake specialty shop or honda/acura private shop check that out
Electrical current test if they all pass the visual and tug test will tell you whats up.
Those are cheap and easy to replace!
You would not be the first person with speed sensor failure
Its still shifting fine? and the trans fluid does not smell burnt?
#21
No it was never wet. The reason for the salvaged title is because I had gotten into an accident last year with the front end and the insurance just totaled it. I bought it back for $5k and fixed it for another $3k. Farmers gave me almost $16k for the car.
All electrical seems to be running right, although doing a thorough check up on it would benefit me also.
Yes, the trans is shifting fine. I do need to change the trans fluid though.
All electrical seems to be running right, although doing a thorough check up on it would benefit me also.
Yes, the trans is shifting fine. I do need to change the trans fluid though.
#22
oh no- not the dreaded trans fluid change discussion!
I would have a brake shop check those wheel speed sensors- its a very good place to start- fsttyms1 really knows these cars, and that was his initial thought
front end damage in crash??- I would be looking closely at the wheel speed sensors!
I would have a brake shop check those wheel speed sensors- its a very good place to start- fsttyms1 really knows these cars, and that was his initial thought
front end damage in crash??- I would be looking closely at the wheel speed sensors!
#23
Three Wheelin'
No it was never wet. The reason for the salvaged title is because I had gotten into an accident last year with the front end and the insurance just totaled it. I bought it back for $5k and fixed it for another $3k. Farmers gave me almost $16k for the car.
All electrical seems to be running right, although doing a thorough check up on it would benefit me also.
Yes, the trans is shifting fine. I do need to change the trans fluid though.
All electrical seems to be running right, although doing a thorough check up on it would benefit me also.
Yes, the trans is shifting fine. I do need to change the trans fluid though.
#24
oh no- not the dreaded trans fluid change discussion!
I would have a brake shop check those wheel speed sensors- its a very good place to start- fsttyms1 really knows these cars, and that was his initial thought
front end damage in crash??- I would be looking closely at the wheel speed sensors!
I would have a brake shop check those wheel speed sensors- its a very good place to start- fsttyms1 really knows these cars, and that was his initial thought
front end damage in crash??- I would be looking closely at the wheel speed sensors!
And yes, the trans fluid will be changed soon.
#27
firestone should be able to check the speed sensors visually and electrically if needed
#29
A little update on this problem (which seems to be fixed).
On Monday, I went to Firestone and checked the system for codes. Indeed like Tom mentioned, my wheel sensor (front left) was "open or short" which caused my VSA and ABS light to come on. My friend who works there told me to check the sensor to see if it looks out of place. I later came home, jacked my car up, took my front wheel out, and checked the sensor. I took out the two 10mm bolts that was holding the bracket and see if everything was good. After that i just put everything back in and started my car. The lights are now off and still drives normal. I don't know why it turned off, as I didn't really do anything but take it off and put it back on.
On Monday, I went to Firestone and checked the system for codes. Indeed like Tom mentioned, my wheel sensor (front left) was "open or short" which caused my VSA and ABS light to come on. My friend who works there told me to check the sensor to see if it looks out of place. I later came home, jacked my car up, took my front wheel out, and checked the sensor. I took out the two 10mm bolts that was holding the bracket and see if everything was good. After that i just put everything back in and started my car. The lights are now off and still drives normal. I don't know why it turned off, as I didn't really do anything but take it off and put it back on.
#30
I'm a thrill seeker in my
This happened to me once in the summer. I was on an empty secondary highway late one night and decided to see what the top speed of my TL was.
I brought her up to 210kph and at that point the TCS and ABS lights came on. I slowed down, pulled over and shut my car off.
I read through the manual and it said that if the lights came on again after the car was restarted that I should take it in.
So I sat for a few minutes and then got going again. The lights were still on, but went off within 30 seconds to a minute of driving.
They never came on again. I figured that because I took my car up to such a high speed perhaps this "wheel speed sensor" had a little fit for a bit.
I haven't had any problems since that night.
I brought her up to 210kph and at that point the TCS and ABS lights came on. I slowed down, pulled over and shut my car off.
I read through the manual and it said that if the lights came on again after the car was restarted that I should take it in.
So I sat for a few minutes and then got going again. The lights were still on, but went off within 30 seconds to a minute of driving.
They never came on again. I figured that because I took my car up to such a high speed perhaps this "wheel speed sensor" had a little fit for a bit.
I haven't had any problems since that night.
#31
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A little update on this problem (which seems to be fixed).
On Monday, I went to Firestone and checked the system for codes. Indeed like Tom mentioned, my wheel sensor (front left) was "open or short" which caused my VSA and ABS light to come on. My friend who works there told me to check the sensor to see if it looks out of place. I later came home, jacked my car up, took my front wheel out, and checked the sensor. I took out the two 10mm bolts that was holding the bracket and see if everything was good. After that i just put everything back in and started my car. The lights are now off and still drives normal. I don't know why it turned off, as I didn't really do anything but take it off and put it back on.
On Monday, I went to Firestone and checked the system for codes. Indeed like Tom mentioned, my wheel sensor (front left) was "open or short" which caused my VSA and ABS light to come on. My friend who works there told me to check the sensor to see if it looks out of place. I later came home, jacked my car up, took my front wheel out, and checked the sensor. I took out the two 10mm bolts that was holding the bracket and see if everything was good. After that i just put everything back in and started my car. The lights are now off and still drives normal. I don't know why it turned off, as I didn't really do anything but take it off and put it back on.
#32
could be corrosion inside the wire of the speed sensor, that happened to me with a maxima
Not visable to the naked eye, and moving the wire assembly may cause better contact, but the part itself is still bad.
Cars having suspension work or brake work, the tech may hang the caliper from that line (instead of supporting with some kind of hanger) and cause internal seperation= failure
As you said- its not very expensive...better to replace since its given you a problem once,,,as warning
for the high speed testers- the lights come on for more reasons that what they say,
high speed will overheat the cat--that may cause it to throw some Master Warning codes as incentive for you to slow down
Not visable to the naked eye, and moving the wire assembly may cause better contact, but the part itself is still bad.
Cars having suspension work or brake work, the tech may hang the caliper from that line (instead of supporting with some kind of hanger) and cause internal seperation= failure
As you said- its not very expensive...better to replace since its given you a problem once,,,as warning
for the high speed testers- the lights come on for more reasons that what they say,
high speed will overheat the cat--that may cause it to throw some Master Warning codes as incentive for you to slow down
#33
I'm a thrill seeker in my
could be corrosion inside the wire of the speed sensor, that happened to me with a maxima
Not visable to the naked eye, and moving the wire assembly may cause better contact, but the part itself is still bad.
Cars having suspension work or brake work, the tech may hang the caliper from that line (instead of supporting with some kind of hanger) and cause internal seperation= failure
As you said- its not very expensive...better to replace since its given you a problem once,,,as warning
for the high speed testers- the lights come on for more reasons that what they say,
high speed will overheat the cat--that may cause it to throw some Master Warning codes as incentive for you to slow down
Not visable to the naked eye, and moving the wire assembly may cause better contact, but the part itself is still bad.
Cars having suspension work or brake work, the tech may hang the caliper from that line (instead of supporting with some kind of hanger) and cause internal seperation= failure
As you said- its not very expensive...better to replace since its given you a problem once,,,as warning
for the high speed testers- the lights come on for more reasons that what they say,
high speed will overheat the cat--that may cause it to throw some Master Warning codes as incentive for you to slow down
#35
I just joined the club. I know this is a year-old thread but we have a similar problem with an 06 Acura TL. On the way to Reno, tire chain was installed (poorly by roadside installers). The VSA light came on, car lost traction and spun 360 - car is OK and nobody got hurt. After that, the VSA. ABS and BRAKE light came on and remained on.
Inspected brake lines, reservoir, and wheel speed sensors. Found front pax side wheel sensor wiring was cut. The front driver side harness came off but otherwise intact and just re-secured it. Spliced the wiring but only the BRAKE light came off, VSA and ABS light still on. Battery was disconnected and leads connected together to discharge capacitors in controllers. Drove the car several miles at various speed, ABS and VSA light still on. Replaced the sensor and harness - problem remains.
The VSA fuses are tested good. I'm planning to replace the driver side wheel sensor too. But is there a built-in diagnostic I can use to identify the problem (w/o going to the dealer)? In my other 5 cars (not Acura), all of them have built-in diagnostics and all you have to do is use a jumper wire to a pin on DLC (OBD II) connectorto turn on the diagnostic mode and get the fault codes.
Inspected brake lines, reservoir, and wheel speed sensors. Found front pax side wheel sensor wiring was cut. The front driver side harness came off but otherwise intact and just re-secured it. Spliced the wiring but only the BRAKE light came off, VSA and ABS light still on. Battery was disconnected and leads connected together to discharge capacitors in controllers. Drove the car several miles at various speed, ABS and VSA light still on. Replaced the sensor and harness - problem remains.
The VSA fuses are tested good. I'm planning to replace the driver side wheel sensor too. But is there a built-in diagnostic I can use to identify the problem (w/o going to the dealer)? In my other 5 cars (not Acura), all of them have built-in diagnostics and all you have to do is use a jumper wire to a pin on DLC (OBD II) connectorto turn on the diagnostic mode and get the fault codes.
#36
vsa, abs, trac lights on
Hi guys,
i'm a noob on this forum. I have been having the VSA, ABS and ! light on for quite some time now. I originally had it diagnosed and the codes came as 13-1, 83-1, 84-1, and 101-1. They suggested I replace the ABS sensors front left and right as the wires looked damaged, then once done, re-diagnose if problem comes back. I had that done (not at the dealer) and the light issues were fixed. But now they come on randomly, most of the time the lights are always off, but every now and then, all three come back on and stay on for about a day or two, sometimes on right when I turn the car on, sometimes after ten seconds, but usually go away after a day or so. I'm not sure whats going on anymore. Do I need to replace the ABS pump? I remember them saying something about the VSA module if the other things don't work, but they quoted me a ridiculous price. Thoughts?
Thanks in advance.
i'm a noob on this forum. I have been having the VSA, ABS and ! light on for quite some time now. I originally had it diagnosed and the codes came as 13-1, 83-1, 84-1, and 101-1. They suggested I replace the ABS sensors front left and right as the wires looked damaged, then once done, re-diagnose if problem comes back. I had that done (not at the dealer) and the light issues were fixed. But now they come on randomly, most of the time the lights are always off, but every now and then, all three come back on and stay on for about a day or two, sometimes on right when I turn the car on, sometimes after ten seconds, but usually go away after a day or so. I'm not sure whats going on anymore. Do I need to replace the ABS pump? I remember them saying something about the VSA module if the other things don't work, but they quoted me a ridiculous price. Thoughts?
Thanks in advance.
#37
can the codes be read by jumping the 4 and 9 on the diagnostic connector?
03 Acura tl 3.2 240,000 miles original transmission, very nice car. has a few tranny issues but its not slipping. changing transmision solenods. thinking about doing 3x3. fluid doesnt smell burnt, but is a little brown.
03 Acura tl 3.2 240,000 miles original transmission, very nice car. has a few tranny issues but its not slipping. changing transmision solenods. thinking about doing 3x3. fluid doesnt smell burnt, but is a little brown.
#38
Mine both cam eon yesterday morning at first start-up. Since I don't have the right kind of scanner and checked the fuse and fusable link, I unbolted the sensor I suspected from the spindle and cleaned off the sensor face with a simple shop rag and bolted it back on. Started the car and lights were gone. Drove it this morning and the diagnostic groans you hear were all there as normal.
Funny thing, I was scanning for codes anyway when the problem existed and while the scanner was hooked up the problem VSA and ABS lights were out when in test mode and when I started the car. I even disconnected the scanner from the port while the car was on and the problem lights were still out. I turned the car off without the scanner attached and turned it back on, the problem lights came back on. Guess the scanner bypasses the diagnostics at startup.
Funny thing, I was scanning for codes anyway when the problem existed and while the scanner was hooked up the problem VSA and ABS lights were out when in test mode and when I started the car. I even disconnected the scanner from the port while the car was on and the problem lights were still out. I turned the car off without the scanner attached and turned it back on, the problem lights came back on. Guess the scanner bypasses the diagnostics at startup.
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